iPod Touch 2nd Generation Battery Replacement

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

iPod Touch 2nd Generation Battery Replacement.

Use this guide to replace a worn-out battery on your 2nd generation Touch. This procedure requires soldering.

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Edit Step 1 Front Panel  ¶ 

  • The glass front panel on the second generation Touch has a plastic frame glued both to its outer edge and also under the wide black strips at the top and bottom of the device. The frame also has a rubber strip that surrounds the edge of the glass panel.

  • The picture at left (front panel already removed) shows the locations of the metal clips (shown in red) that snap on to the plastic frame. In the next few steps, try to pry the front panel up from the gaps between these clips.

  • Also, be mindful of the very thin and delicate touch screen ribbon cable (connector location shown in orange) attaching the front panel to the upper left corner of the Touch.

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Gently insert a plastic opening tool between the glass front panel and its plastic surround near the volume control buttons.

  • Rotate the tool away from the Touch to pry up on the glass panel.

  • The key is to work slowly and gently to avoid breaking internal components.

  • If you are having difficulties using a plastic opening tool. You could try a razor blade, we found it easier to release the clips with one. Please be extremely careful if you take this route!

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Insert the plastic opening tool between the front panel and its plastic surround and pry up at several points along the left edge of the Touch.

  • Do not insert the tool and run it down the edge of the front panel. This may damage the front panel and the rubber seal. It is best to work one point, pry up, then remove the tool and reinsert it at the next spot to be pried up.

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Continue prying up the left edge until the top and bottom edges start to lift out of the Touch.

  • Once the top and bottom edges have lifted slightly out of the Touch, use the opening tool to assure the plastic surround is detached from the clips along the inside of the Touch.

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Continue the prying procedure, now focusing on detaching the plastic surround from the internal metal clips.

  • Pry along the top edge of the Touch to further separate the front panel from the rest of the device.

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Pry up the front panel along the right edge using the method described in previous steps.

  • Eventually work around the entire perimeter of the front panel until it is lifted slightly from the rear panel.

  • Also, ensure that the plastic surround is separated from the clips in the rear panel.

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Lift the front panel out of the rear case minding the cable still attaching it near the upper left corner of the Touch.

    • Make sure you DO NOT tear the display's touch screen connector cable. Tearing this will render your display useless.

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger (or an opening tool) to pry the touch screen cable connector up off the upper logic board.

  • Now that the front panel is out, check it for damage. If the plastic surround is not flush with the front face of the glass panel, gently peel it off and stick it down.

  • Be careful not to scratch the front panel on the underside of the black portions, as the scratches will be visible once the device is reassembled.

  • Be sure to clean both the face of the display and the inner surface of the front panel, as any dust or fingerprints will be trapped inside the Touch once it is fully reassembled.

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Edit Step 9 Display  ¶ 

  • Insert a small iPod opening tool with the edge angled up toward the underside of the display between the white plastic backlight and the metal shield beneath it.

  • Pry up along the lower edge of the display enough to grab it with your fingers.

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Lift the display up from its lower edge and rotate it toward the top of the Touch.

  • The next few steps require removal of components under where the display normally sits. Be sure to hold the display to avoid putting tension on the delicate display ribbon cable.

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • While holding the display with one hand, run an iPod opening tool down the two long edges of the mylar reflector attached to the metal display tray.

  • When it is sufficiently free from the display tray, remove the mylar reflector from the Touch.

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Remove the seven Phillips screws securing the metal display tray to the rear panel.

  • The two darker screws belong in the two holes in the tray nearest the bottom edge of the Touch.

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Lay the display back down into its tray.

  • Remove the final Phillips screw securing the metal tray to the rear panel.

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Lift the display out of the metal tray and rotate it toward the top edge of the Touch.

  • Use an iPod opening tool to lift the metal display tray and rotate it up toward the top edge of the Touch.

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to peel the copper tape off the top edge of the display.

  • Leave the copper tape attached to the metal display tray.

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Use an iPod opening tool to pry the display cable connector up off its socket on the logic board.

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Lift the metal display tray slightly (the battery is attached to its underside) and remove the display from the Touch, minding its delicate cable that may get caught.

  • The display ribbon cable is routed under the metal display tray.

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Edit Step 18 Battery  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the battery off the adhesive securing it to the metal display tray.

  • Remove the metal display tray and set it aside.

  • Lay the battery down flat in the rear case.

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Use a pair of tweezers to remove the small strip of tape covering the end of the battery cable.

  • When finished installing your new battery, it is essential to cover the bare battery leads with tape to avoid electrical shorts.

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Flip your battery over and lay it down in the rear panel as shown.

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • The battery on the second generation Touch is attached via solder pads with small holes that go through the battery ribbon cable and attach to flat pads on the face of the logic board. In this step, you will heat each solder pad individually while using a metal spudger to pry it up from the logic board.

  • DO NOT bridge the connection between the solder pads both on the board and on the ribbon cable with your spudger. Shorts have the potential to ruin the logic board.

  • Beware of overheating the board and the cable. Only hold the tip of the iron against the pad long enough to let the solder melt. Excess heat buildup has the potential to ruin the logic board or melt the ribbon cable.

  • Start working from one side of the battery ribbon cable. In our case, we started on the left. Heat the leftmost solder pad while gently prying up from under the ribbon cable to free it from the board. Repeat this process for each of the two remaining pads, working either right to left or left to right.

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • At this point, the battery should be free from the logic board.

  • Lift the old battery out of the Touch and set it aside.

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Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Next, use the tip of a soldering iron to flatten out the solder on the logic board solder pads. The pictures show a 'before' and 'after' shot.

  • Remember not to heat up the pads too much.

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Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Place your battery in the rear panel, with the cable side down, and use two small strips of electrical tape to hold the cable against the solder pads.

  • Installing the battery upside down (with the cable facing up) will destroy the logic board.

  • Place a strip of tape over the end of the battery ribbon cable to both cover two of the solder pads and hold the contacts down against the logic board.

  • Heat the rightmost contact until the solder below melts and apply a small amount of solder to the contact, allowing it to flow through the two holes in the cable and down to the logic board.

  • Do not apply too much solder. The amount required for a proper bond is miniscule.

  • As soon as the solder has flowed into the joint, remove both the solder and the iron.

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Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Remove the piece of tape covering the remaining two leads. If you are satisfied with the position of the cable relative to the pads on the board, proceed. If not, de-solder the first connection and try again.

  • Solder the two remaining pads to the logic board, being mindful of overheating the cable or board.

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Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Don't forget to reapply the piece of tape over the solder pads to prevent any shorts.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iPod Touch 2nd Generation device page.

Required Tools

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Metal Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Soldering Station

$24.95 · 50+ In stock

Lead-Free Solder

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Recommended Tools

Universal Drive Adapter

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iFixit Lock Pick Set

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Inspection Scope

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Frictionless Ratchet

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Portable Anti-Static Mat

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Popular Device Products

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Comments Comments are onturn off

1 thing I misunderstood or otherwise.

When removing the touch glass/front of the iPod you need to be very very very careful to actually get between the plastic/rubber and outer chrome frame, not between the glass and and the plastic/rubber part. Otherwise this will break all of your plastic pieces that are glued to your touch screen.

Another thing is I removed one of the contacts from the circuit board while removing the battery. I thought the ipod was toast. But upon further investigation I realized that that contact went though the board. So I scraped that area down to the other contacts and applied solder to it. Then I was able to reinstall the new battery. PHEW!

Stephan Brunet, · Reply

cool. you've got a same problem with me :)

streetpoet11,

Be careful when you insert your ipod opening tool into your device in step 2 and step 3. The ipod opening tool shouuld be inserted between the metal part and the rubber pad, not between the rubber pad and the edge of touch screen. It will damage your rubber pad surrounding the touch screen. Even though I did some damage to the rubber pad, it looks good when I finish the replacement :)

streetpoet11, · Reply

Did it! Taking apart the case of the Touch (first steps) was the hardest part. Soldering the battery in was a bit tricky. I tinned the connectors prior to soldering and that made it much easier than adding solder later. Reassembly took only about 20 minutes. Disassembly was about 45 minutes. Broke left side of plastic frame around glass front but when reassembled its no problem. You would never know it. I'm really pretty good at electronic assembly and I would agree that its very difficult.

traylor, · Reply

Refer to this thread and I would suggest not desoldering the old pads. This happened to me and I was careful and work with electronics everyday.

http://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/42470...

nateokane, · Reply

It's so hard to open the front glass without damaging the rubber ring around the plastic frame.....

kasimir, · Reply

Unfortunately the plastic tools I bought from here didn't work well and disintegrated into the iPod as I was trying to pry the front panel off. Ended up breaking the display's touch screen connector cable with al the worry about the plastic falling into the ipod. Oh well, this was a last ditch effort anyway, the OS is so old I can't get app updates anymore. I would argue that the tools they sell are not worth it but the repair guides are pretty good. I guess I'll be returning the bits I no longer need.

kareemahhamdan, · Reply

A quick note that worked great for me. Print out the picture that has the locations of the metal connector clips and scale it to actual size. Then place the iTouch on top of the printed picture and it will show you exactly where to insert the opening tool. Use it as a template.

sean, · Reply

If you are planning on reusing the front bezel / seal around the glass screen, be careful not to rip it up too much when loosening the screen.

iTronics Repair, · Reply

If you bought a new front panel there is a rubber seal around it so dont worry about ripping it up to open your iPod

mikeseptak, · Reply

Quote from mikeseptak:

If you bought a new front panel there is a rubber seal around it so dont worry about ripping it up to open your iPod

sometimes if you buy a new front it doesn't come with the front bezel, so make sure it does before you rip the old one up. otherwise you can get a new front bezel from ebay.

iTronics Repair, · Reply

"Gently insert an iPod opening tool between the glass front panel and its plastic surround near the headphone jack."

My guess is near the "Volume Control" not the "headphone jack" since the Headphone is oriented at the bottom of the picture not where the tool is being shown.

barlowdo, · Reply

Cracked the glass dropping on tile floor. I used a metal guitar pick to remove the glass/digitizer/bezel/"o" ring assembly, noting the clips in the first picture, I worked my way around and between the clips - starting at the volume control - first to loosen the glass/digitizer, then to go deeper and vertically lift the bezel and free the bezel from the clips. As others say - if you purchase from this site DO NOT worry about the bezel OR the "o" ring around the bezel - just get the entire thang out and the new one slips/snaps into place with ease - entire process took about 10min for removal and 3 for replacement - and I HAVE A NEW WORKING iPod TOUCH!! Jerry -Houston, TX - 281-687-2755 for questions...

jgreengold, · Reply

And the service and shipping are excellent - and now I'm gonna buy a new MacBook keyboard from this company and fix my daughters stuck "z" key - I love IFIXIT - would recommend to ALL - products and instructions are EXCELLENT - yes ebay *may* be cheaper but you get what you pay for... HIGHLY RECOMMEND IFIXIT...

jgreengold, · Reply

Quote from jgreengold:

Cracked the glass dropping on tile floor. I used a metal guitar pick to remove the glass/digitizer/bezel/"o" ring assembly, noting the clips in the first picture, I worked my way around and between the clips - starting at the volume control - first to loosen the glass/digitizer, then to go deeper and vertically lift the bezel and free the bezel from the clips. As others say - if you purchase from this site DO NOT worry about the bezel OR the "o" ring around the bezel - just get the entire thang out and the new one slips/snaps into place with ease - entire process took about 10min for removal and 3 for replacement - and I HAVE A NEW WORKING iPod TOUCH!! Jerry -Houston, TX - 281-687-2755 for questions...

I am not familiar with a Metal Guitar pick, The plastic ones break very easily. (Even my Fender one) Did your metal pick damage the metal frame of your iPod? Were you able to remove the touch screen, o-ring, and plastic bezel without further damage to the parts?

When I attempted to use a metal screwdriver I damaged the LCD.

barlowdo, · Reply

Quote from barlowdo:

I am not familiar with a Metal Guitar pick, The plastic ones break very easily. (Even my Fender one) Did your metal pick damage the metal frame of your iPod? Were you able to remove the touch screen, o-ring, and plastic bezel without further damage to the parts? When I attempted to use a metal screwdriver I damaged the LCD.

jgreengold, · Reply

Not too hard to find - either at music store a sometimes as a jewelry

"charm"... Mine is the latter - very thin, very stiff. It did not damage

the frame of the iPod at all. However - after replacing the new part I noted

a plastic protector sheet on the *underside* of the new screen - upon

removing the new top glass panel using the same guitar pick a second time, I

too damaged the LCD - I also damaged the bezel and O ring. The O ring is

very difficult to get off in a reusable condition. The bezel can come off

clean with patience - which I apparently have little of and hence purchased

a second glass top assembly to go along with the new LCD. I think the key

here is patience and very slow going - I also purchased an iPod opening tool

as another key learning is that while the guitar pick does work - it tends

to get inserted too deep damaging the bezel (separating it from the glass or

breaking it) or damaging internal parts. But the opening tool can sometimes

be not firm enough. I imagine with practice one can remove the entire

assembly in completely reusable condition - the trick it seems is to

understand that the bezel has vertical sides that must be lifted vertically

after being unclipped from the case - and that the glass has a tendency to

separate from the bezel...

jgreengold, · Reply

I tried a flathead screwdriver and cracked the front panel.I learned that prying with a flathead screwdriver will damage it.

Honam1021,

Quote from jgreengold:

Not too hard to find - either at music store a sometimes as a jewelry

"charm"... Mine is the latter - very thin, very stiff. It did not damage

the frame of the iPod at all. However - after replacing the new part I noted

a plastic protector sheet on the *underside* of the new screen - upon

removing the new top glass panel using the same guitar pick a second time, I

too damaged the LCD - I also damaged the bezel and O ring. The O ring is

very difficult to get off in a reusable condition. The bezel can come off

clean with patience - which I apparently have little of and hence purchased

a second glass top assembly to go along with the new LCD. I think the key

here is patience and very slow going - I also purchased an iPod opening tool

as another key learning is that while the guitar pick does work - it tends

to get inserted too deep damaging the bezel (separating it from the glass or

breaking it) or damaging internal parts. But the opening tool can sometimes

be not firm enough. I imagine with practice one can remove the entire

assembly in completely reusable condition - the trick it seems is to

understand that the bezel has vertical sides that must be lifted vertically

after being unclipped from the case - and that the glass has a tendency to

separate from the bezel...

Last night I recalled I use to own a metal pic it was a thumb pic for slide guitar. Anyway I decided to use my metal tools I bought from this site which are more rounded edges than the flat bladed screw driver that comes with kits. I made more progress with the metal tools and got what I think is all sides mostly up accept for the home button side which is really fighting me. I can easily tell where a clip is by sliding the tool alongside until I bump up against the side of a clip but I find it very difficult to push straight down to catch the top of the clip which it would seem would push away from the bezel. I am just not sure why this is difficult to do. I have a broken 2nd gen which I use as reference and it looks like the clip would easily push away. At any rate I am in the same predicament as you. I got the 2nd gen together only to find the home button sticks and wifi range is not what it use to be. So I am attempting to take the iPod apart a 2nd time to fix these issues without breaking the touch screen and lcd and so am taking my time. I just don't want to have to replace these brand new parts and have more money in this 8 gig 2nd gen than if I had just bought a brand new one.

barlowdo, · Reply

Quote from jgreengold:

And the service and shipping are excellent - and now I'm gonna buy a new MacBook keyboard from this company and fix my daughters stuck "z" key - I love IFIXIT - would recommend to ALL - products and instructions are EXCELLENT - yes ebay *may* be cheaper but you get what you pay for... HIGHLY RECOMMEND IFIXIT...

Hi jgreengold, Can you help me to check if your iPod touch is like mine on this picture?: http://i44.tinypic.com/2a8ga6p.jpg

My iPod touch bottom glass is a bit raised over the chrome bezel at the right part. Please check it and many thanks for your reply!!

daikyouju, · Reply

best I can see my touch glass is level with the frame - whether this picture is pre or post glass replacement, you need to gently, slowly, firmly, press down to try to seat the glass better in the frame/clip. I've see cases where after removint a glass top, the removal of the bexel is not perfect and it may leavel some of the black plastic bexel in the clip which makes it impossible to then copmpletely seat the new top glass/bezel.

jgreengold, · Reply

Be sure to pry between the outer case and the rubber gasket and not between the gasket and the glass

mgardner, · Reply

isn't this instruction misleading? :

"Gently insert an iPod opening tool between the glass front panel and its plastic surround near the headphone jack."

i agree with mgardner: "Be sure to pry between the outer case and the rubber gasket and not between the gasket and the glass"

vera, · Reply

I tried using the razor blade since the plastic opening tool was useless. I cracked the front panel and scratched the LCD. It had moisture damage and the touchscreen wasn't working. So be very careful when you use the razorblade...

rockon46, · Reply

Careful not to use a (metal) spudger too hard, or it's really easy to bust the LCD screen with the pressure.

iTronics Repair, · Reply

If you insert the tool between the silver case and the plastic surround, you may be able to remove the digitizer and plastic surround as a "single piece".

Tom, · Reply

Quote from Tom:

If you insert the tool between the silver case and the plastic surround, you may be able to remove the digitizer and plastic surround as a "single piece".

That's the way I did it!

James Bond, · Reply

I have mine popped up about 1 mm on the top side and on both sides but so far have made no progress on bottom "home button" side. I think I have released the clips on the sides but I can't really see them and can't feel them with the small flat bladed screw driver that comes with replacement kits.

I would love to use the small plastic tool to pry up on the o ring plastic bezel side but I know I would easily cut the o- ring.

Has anyone got anymore suggestions?

barlowdo, · Reply

Quote from barlowdo:

I have mine popped up about 1 mm on the top side and on both sides but so far have made no progress on bottom "home button" side. I think I have released the clips on the sides but I can't really see them and can't feel them with the small flat bladed screw driver that comes with replacement kits.

Update: I have been told that basically all I have accomplished is to raise the glass up above the surface of the metal case and really have not even got to the plastic bezel and disconnecting the clips. So maybe I have got no where so far.

I would love to use the small plastic tool to pry up on the o ring plastic bezel side but I know I would easily cut the o- ring.

Has anyone got anymore suggestions?

barlowdo, · Reply

Quote from barlowdo:

Update: I have been told that basically all I have accomplished is to raise the glass up above the surface of the metal case and really have not even got to the plastic bezel and disconnecting the clips. So maybe I have got no where so far.

The metal clips from Step1 (shown in red) that snap on to the plastic frame are not right at the side of the display glas (under the black rubber) but a little more to the middle!

I thought I opened the metal clips - but what I really did was broke the plastic frame! Now my plastic frame is only on the top and bottom but it still fixes the front panel...

James Bond, · Reply

agreed - or a metal quitar pick or ay other metal object. It is relatively easy to insert such an instrument and get under the bezel placing direct pressure on the LCD screed... Slow, shallow, and easy... lifting vertically

jgreengold, · Reply

Quote from barlowdo:

I finally got mine apart. The lower left metal clip was the absolute worst to get loose. Of course none of them were easy or obvious when they would let go freeing up the Bezel. It looks like I can reuse the complete touch screen and home button assembly and the rubber o ring is only slightly blemished around the lower left clip. I had to use the included repair kit flat bladed screw driver to loosen the last clip. All the other clips I was able to remove by using the metal tools sold thru this site. I did not want to use the flat bladed screw driver as it can damage the o ring but the other tools would just not catch the clip enough to lift it away from the bezel and then allowing the bezel to pop up.

So a question, "Why was my Home Button Jamming?" it is a self contained unit. Once out of the pod and in fact even after freeing up most of the bezel it works fine.What could it have been catching on when it is completely assembled? Is there side word pressure or torsional pressure introduced by the bezel snap clips and metal outside frame ?

Thanks to anyone with any suggestions about why the home button sticks in the unit but not when it is out of the unit.

barlowdo, · Reply

I had to take mine apart again due to Home Button issues. The touch screen had come loose from the plastic bezel causing the home button to work incorrectly. In the process of trying to clean up old glue I broke the ribbon cable on the brand new only been used for a coupe of months touch screen. I ended up taking the screen all the way off and was left with popping out the plastic bezel without breaking it. I thought it would be difficult but with the touch screen already out of the way I got the plastic bezel off in under 20 minutes.

barlowdo,

The new screen i got its home button does not click idk if its just mine but it messes with me because your used to hearing a click when it registers

mikeseptak, · Reply

Step 2

*Gently insert an iPod opening tool between the glass front panel and its plastic surround...

First pic from Step 4 shows what is meant.

But on all the other pics it looks like the opening tool is inserted between the plastic surrounding and the metall body!?

James Bond, · Reply

Quote from James Bond:

Step 2

*Gently insert an iPod opening tool between the glass front panel and its plastic surround...

First pic from Step 4 shows what is meant.

But on all the other pics it looks like the opening tool is inserted between the plastic surrounding and the metall body!?

I checked again and the pics from Step 4+ are correct.

But I would advice the following way:

Quote from Tom:

If you insert the tool between the silver case and the plastic surround, you may be able to remove the digitizer and plastic surround as a "single piece".

James Bond, · Reply

I cracked my front panel at this step while prying. First time I've ever broken anything (or given up in defeat) during a repair. Don't pry too hard! This repair is indeed VERY DIFFICULT.

srohde, · Reply

Cracked your front panel? Isn't that what was wrong with it in the first place?

jonathan,

OK I've repaired many of these now and I think I've found the trick. The trick is to start near the volume buttons and get one or two of the clips released. Then I work my way down the unit, across the bottom, up the side. The top then pretty much comes on it's own. The trick for each clip is, once I can apply upward prying pressure on the plastic frame, I get the spudger between the clip and the frame and the frame will come out of the clip. It's almost never a dramatic pop, it just slides up. I keep a dead, open one on my desk as a reference as to exactly where the clips are.

jonathan, · Reply

As with the iPhone, the number one reason for removing the digitizer is if it’s smashed. Removing the broken glass from the mid-frame is a delicate procedure and can be very tedious and time consuming. The rubber gasket and home button can be easily damaged if you are overzealous with a heat gun. The mid-frame section is now readily available as an orderable spare part (about £5!) and in my opinion you’ll get a much neater, cleaner repair if you replace this part too. There is however no need to purchase a new home button and switch as this can be easily removed from the old mid-frame and applied to the new one, you will need a hot iron to melt the plastic rivets that hold it in place though.

NoBox, · Reply

So what is the orientation for the putting the home button back in. The button has two tabs. Do the tabs face vertical or horizontal? What keeps the button from rotating? Do the tabs fit into slots?

barlowdo,

Trust me replace the front plate instead of the glass much easier

Nick, · Reply

I used a new frame, removed the home button and circuit and stuck it on the new frame, with metal bracket, but it isn't working.

Ryan, · Reply

Quote from Ryan:

I used a new frame, removed the home button and circuit and stuck it on the new frame, with metal bracket, but it isn't working.

Ask a question

Nick, · Reply

My iPod touch has the glass screen cover a bit raised over the chrome bezel at the bottom right, as you can see in this:

http://i44.tinypic.com/2a8ga6p.jpg

Is this normal?

daikyouju, · Reply

Crazy simple! Wow! Now I pretty much have a new iPod. Thanks iFixit!

patrickjmoe, · Reply

Be careful not to put too much pressure on the LCD screen here or it will "bleed" or crack.

iTronics Repair, · Reply

Quote from iTronics Repair:

Be careful not to put too much pressure on the LCD screen here or it will "bleed" or crack.

I haven't had many problems with this part, I've cracked an LCD doing the initial separation of the top frame from the back though.

jonathan, · Reply

Step 11. Upon dissection of my iPod touch I note that the mylar reflector is attached firmly to the back of the LCD panel and NOT to the tray as pictured. I assume that the new LCD panel that I ordered from ifixit includes this mylar reflector pre attached to the back of the LCD?

jgreengold, · Reply

I have a similar question about the Mylar

1. What is it for? The LCD appears to be a closed unit so I do not think it is for lighting the LCD. Is it a reflector for the Wifi or Blue Tooth?

2. Which way is it suppose to face. Shiny side up or shiny side down? In the pic above it is shiny side up but I see on my replacement LCD it is stuck on shiny side down.

barlowdo, · Reply

Quote from barlowdo:

I have a similar question about the Mylar

1. What is it for? The LCD appears to be a closed unit so I do not think it is for lighting the LCD. Is it a reflector for the Wifi or Blue Tooth?

2. Which way is it suppose to face. Shiny side up or shiny side down? In the pic above it is shiny side up but I see on my replacement LCD it is stuck on shiny side down.

I'm fairly confident that the mylar is there for viewing the display in direct sunlight and for reflecting the backlight/incoming sunlight back out through the LCD. If you hold the display assembly (without mylar) in front of a very intense light source, you'll notice it is a bit transparent and that light transmits through both the LCD and the backlight. Now, if you check out the metal tray that the LCD sits in, you'll notice that it is not a uniform flat surface due to many voids for screw holes, etc. If you were to view the display in direct sunlight without the mylar in place, you'd probably see all the voids in the metal display tray as unwanted "shadows" in your display. I'd install the mylar with the shiny side facing toward the outer glass, as oriented in our repair guide.

Andrew Bookholt, · Reply

Works as advertised - I did it!... Replaced LCD and Glass Digitizer in about 45 min (took my time)... Steps are perfectly described - just a reminder to all - remember to take off all protective films used in shipping on both sides of the LCD and both sides of the glass digitizer during installation. You do not want to have to remove the top again (that was a $69.00) mistake on my part...

jgreengold, · Reply

What indication did you have that the plastic protectors were still on the new screens? Did parts fit too tightly? Was the screen Dim?

Just curious as this may be some issues others are experiencing.

barlowdo,

During re-assembly, make sure the new battery is positioned low on the back of the metal tray so it does not sit on the edge of the circut board. I dident realize i had done this until I applied a little pressure while seating the LCD screen and I cracked it. Now I get to replace the LCD.

sounnder, · Reply

Since the battery solder pads are lead-free soldered you need a higher temperature.

Solder with a temperature of about 320 to 340 °C. (I had to go up to 420 °C at my Soldering Station!?)

James Bond, · Reply

Avoiding frying the board...

I was noticing that your using a metal spudger to pry up each contact on the solder pad and cautioning not to bridge the contact. I'm thinking there could be a small amount of voltage left in the battery that if you bridged the solder pad with the metal spudger you could fry the board. Why not just cut the batteries ribbon cable before beginning? As long as the sync cable is not plugged in, I don't see where the device could get any charged in case the spudger slipped. (my kind of luck)

Country Computer Service, · Reply

A CHISEL TIP ON YOUR SOLDERING IRON IS KEY

---------------------------------------------------------------

I ripped off pads using the method described here at ifixit. A better solution...

Use an iron with a chisel, not connical, tip. Your iron should be hot enough where you can touch one soldered section at a time -- it only takes about 2 seconds to melt the solder and "lightly" lift up on the cable.

removing the battery...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LrFaXblPn...

be sure to watch the follow up video showing how to attach the battery, you will need a braid, but the tutorial is invaluable.

soldering on the new battery...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aWeTbC-Oh...

P.S. If someone has a tutorial on getting solder pads to stick back or using solder to create new pads, I still have my first iPod touch that I goofed up following the directions shown on ifixit. I would love to see how you can repair the pads.

Country Computer Service, · Reply

What if I yanked the battery ribbon and the middle solder pad ripped out of the logic board? =/

Marylyn Nguyen, · Reply

Just did the same thing with the right pad. Any suggestions, anyone?

David Jonas,

Lead or lead free?

Nick, · Reply

MINISCULE amount of solder...

pollytintop, · Reply

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