iPhone 5 Vibrator Replacement

Replace the rotary vibrator in your iPhone 5

iPhone 5 lost its buzz? Use this guide to get it back with a new vibrator.

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Edit Step 1 Front Panel Assembly  ¶ 

  • Before disassembling your iPhone, be sure it is powered off.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

  • Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.

  • If you're opening an iPhone with cracked glass, neatly lay a couple strips of packing tape across the front and squeeze out as many bubbles as you can. This will give the suction cup a surface to grab, and minimize the spread of broken glass.

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly.

  • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

  • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

  • With a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup.

  • There are several clips attaching the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Continue to pry up around the sides of the front panel assembly, detaching the clips along the left and right side.

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Do not try to completely remove the front panel assembly from the rear case, as there are several ribbon cables still attached at the top of the iPhone.

  • Once the clips have been released on the bottom and sides of the front panel assembly, pull the bottom of the assembly away from the rear case.

  • Lift the front panel assembly slowly up to about 90 degrees from the rear case.

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:

    • Two 1.2 mm Phillips screws

    • One 1.6 mm Phillips screw

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

  • User note: To ensure correct installation, make sure you clip the small hooks of the bracket under and then lower towards the outside of the phone.

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the three front panel assembly cables:

    • Front-facing camera and sensor cable

    • Digitizer cable

    • LCD cable

      • When reassembling your phone, The LCD cable may pop off the connector. This can cause white lines, or nothing at all to appear when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

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Edit Step 10 Battery  ¶ 

  • Remove the following two screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board:

    • One 1.8 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.6 mm Phillips screw

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • It may be possible to remove the battery simply by pulling on the plastic pull-tab. A slow continual pull seems to work best. If this is insufficient, proceed with the prying outlined in this step.

  • Use the plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery up, only at the three points shown. Prying anywhere else, especially near the clear plastic pull tab, may result in damage to the logic board.

  • Again, do not pry too hard, and only in the locations shown; well above and below the clear plastic pull tab. Otherwise, you may deform or puncture the battery or damage the logic board.

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • If necessary, use the exposed clear plastic pull tab to peel the battery off the adhesive securing it to the iPhone.

  • Remove the battery.

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Edit Step 15 Vibrator  ¶ 

  • Remove two screws securing the vibrator bracket to the rear case:

    • Single 2.3 mm Phillips screw

    • Single 1.7 mm Phillips screw

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Remove the vibrator bracket from the rear case.

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Remove the 1.6 mm Phillips screw securing the vibrator to the top inside of the rear case.

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Remove the vibrator from the rear case.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iPhone 5 device page.

Required Tools

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Small Suction Cup

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Plastic Opening Tools

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

I would recommend keeping multiple pieces of double-sided tape for each step that requires removing screws. Also perhaps label them, or take notes, so you know which piece of tape (and the screws attached to it) go with which step number. It's easy to confuse screws, especially if you go past these instructions to remove everything required to replace the ribbon cable that is necessary for the buttons.

irwin fletcher, · Reply

Ordered and received the Phillips #00 Screwdriver ($5.95 · 50+ In stock). It is a tiny Philips screwdriver. The screws next to the lightning port have tiny star-shaped holes. I will have to find a different screwdriver.

jacklingwood, · Reply

Unfortunately, the kit I ordered that was to come with a suction cup didn't include one; thanks for quality control, ifixit. Tape doesn't work. Now what?

btarver, · Reply

I'm sorry to hear that. I have a suction cup being sent out today (Tue 3/11/14) and it will be there tomorrow for you.

Scott Dingle,

I found it was easier to start opening from the top left of the display and working straight down towards the home button as there are no clips in this particular area. I realize there are cables on the right side right next to the area, however, this way requires less force as a starting point. Let me know what you think.

boxerbc, · Reply

I think that's not a good idea as the top of the display is held in place with plastic tabs.

If you apply to much force they can break.

Johnny, · Reply

This part was the most frustrating part of the guide, granted I didn't do the whole thing. I was expecting to slip the plastic separator tool in-between the case and the display. This did not happen and I ate away at the tool in the process. For me after much pushing on the top edge of the case and pulling the screen away it released all of a sudden. I managed to make a dead stop at 90 degrees, but felt like I almost ripped off the ribbon cables(I didn't).

maxturkewitz, · Reply

The suction cup didn't work, because of my destroyed front glass.

So i take "tesa powers trips".

With that help, i had enough force to pull up the front display from the rear case.

ulrichstumm, · Reply

Suction cup didn't work for me. I tried for half hour with my nerd biceps. In the end, I inserted an xacto blade below the home button to create a gap big enough for me to put in a guitar pick and finally able to pry it open. In the process I scratched the frame so you have to be very careful if you decide to take this approach.

Meng, · Reply

Where can you buy "Tesa Powerstrips?

latraelmayo, · Reply

The glass on my phone was completely destroyed, making the suction cup entirely useless. I was pretty close to giving up when i tried putting a strip of clear packing tape on the screen and squishing out all the bubbles. Put the suction cup on this and it worked perfectly.

chriscopass, · Reply

Thank you. I broke the front glass with this technique..

Olivier S, · Reply

Used a suction cup from my Garmin Navi. The one you use to stick it to your windshield. It has a nice plastic "handle" and made things a lot easier... almost too easy that I nearly pulled the screen off the cables. Go easy on this step.

michaelychien, · Reply

I'd Advise Against The Suction Cup Here As It Will Separate The Glass From The Black/White Framing That You're Actually Supposed To Pry Under. I Found When Using The Suction Cup, The Glass Came Up, But The Framing Stayed Stuck. If You're Replacing The Entire Display It's Not As Much Of A Problem, But If You're Installing Any Other Part Or A Custom Housing, You'll Notice Your Screen Has A Bit Of "Play" When Pressing Down.

Resolve Repairs, · Reply

While holding down on the lower sides of the iPhone, I found inserting the plastic separator just to the right of the audio jack while gently applying pressure down and back from the edge popped the bottom of the display assembly up. Keep in mind to do this while pulling back on the suction cup ring, like the guide says constant, but gentle force at the same time. Another note is to have the suction cup ring vertical to align with the length of the display, that made the process much easier.

Canis Lupis, · Reply

You rock! I was having trouble getting the thing to budge, but the moment I put the plastic tool near the audio jack, the screen immediately popped up.

Justin,

I've been using a metal flat opening tool along with the suction cup to pop these bad boys open - remember the tape on the screen trick if you have a smashed screen - so the suction cup can grip and stops the glass going everywhere!

Ben Watkins, · Reply

Definitely a difficult step. Make sure not to pry the screen from framing. Also, I kept pushing the power button on while attempting separate the frame. Keep your fingers clear from the top of the phone because having it turn on while the casing is popped is a little nerve racking!

Andrew, · Reply

I had trouble with this step too, since I had to apply quite a lot of force on the suction cup when pulling up on the screen while holding down on the frame with my fingernails. Eventually it popped free, but came almost to 90 degrees before I was able to stop it. No damage, but nerve-wracking, and if there was a better technique, it would be good to figure it out and share the information here.

Adam Engst, · Reply

Be very gentle! I overdid it and, though the repair was successful, there's now a bit of play when pressing on the top right quadrant of the screen.

plasticpool, · Reply

When reinserting the screen, be sure to start from the top and insert the plastic tabs on the screen into the case before advancing the rest of the screen into place, finishing at the bottom. The screen will snap into place once lined up to complete the insertion.

jeff, · Reply

This is actually very important, I was having trouble getting the front panel to go on by starting at the top. I started from the bottom instead and the bottom ended up secure, but not the top. I then tried to take the front panel back off, but because the top portion was already loose the force required to pull off the bottom led to one of the ribbon cables at the top of phone breaking.

jjensik11,

STOP HERE AND SKIP TO STEP 27

There is no need to remove any of the other parts from the iPhone at this point and save yourself time, you will also be less likely to damage anything, if your are skilled you need not remove the LCD - just prop it up and follow my edit to remove the buzzer on step 27.

g4tch, · Reply

Anyone have any idea why the 1.6mm screw is not magnetic? Just wondering why this screw seems to be made of aluminum, its the first screw of its kind as far as iphones go.

crevz, · Reply

The compass is right next to it.

Tom Chai,

the #00 phillips screwdriver was not close to being able to budge the 2 1.2mm screws. fine for the 1.6mm, but i now have a useless phone and no tools to continue the repair. disappointingly bad guidance from ifixit

BRIANHORSLEY, · Reply

is it necessary to disconnect the front panel assembly cables fore removing the battery ?

or can you leave it on wile replacing the battery ?

aardappel, · Reply

I just finished this process using the battery replacement kit from ifixit and it went easily. I did NOT remove the entire screen but rather just had someone hold it at less than a 90 degree angle until I got the battery out. I found it took a while to slowly pry the battery out. Take your time and alternate between gently using the plastic tool and pulling on the plastic pull tab that says "for authorized use only" or something like that. It was MUCH easier than disconnecting the entire screen for the process. Hope this helps.

david,

Rule #1 on electronics repair methodology: to prevent damage to the electronics, power should be the first thing to be removed and the last to be restored. I'd disconnect the battery before touching anything else, a slip of the screwdriver or a loose screw could cause a fatal short circuit.

andrewcilia, · Reply

It's no need to remove front panel to change battery. I just skip to Step 10 and successfully changed battery, and it works well. And THANKS TO ifixit.com, IT IS AWESOME!

sorrowboy, · Reply

My iPhone 5 (1428) model don't has this bracket and replacing the earpiece don't fix my problem (don't hear anyone).

plyhell, · Reply

Great Guide, Any idea what else could be wrong if Ive replaced the screen with a working 1 and the phone still has no display?

Thanks for any insight in advance.

Raistlin, · Reply

When you reverse step 7, make sure you clip the little hooks of the bracket under and then lower towards the outside of the phone. If you don't, the phone won't snap back together properly.

Dirk, · Reply

The part itfixit sent only has two cables: the digitizer and LCD are combined into a single cable. (And the guide is great! Thanks!)

baileyswanson, · Reply

After replacing the screen I was presented with a no image screen (but backlight was ok), so I refited the shartered one, same issue, no image, but backlight. thinking I might damage the pcb, I just did a power cycle (disconnecting the battery) and now it's fine.

so... always powercycle :)

poseido, · Reply

Be very careful here, at this point the phone power is live! a slip of the connectors or a loose screw could let the magic smoke out of the chips (chips won't work without their magic smoke, you know :-)

I'd disconnect the battery before messing with the connectors.

andrewcilia, · Reply

This is a troublesome step, since the LCD connector is particularly difficult to reconnect, and know that you've gotten it on. And thanks to the note claiming that if it's disconnected, if you might just get a black screen, you're left with having to disassemble the entire unit again, without knowing if it's powered off (since you presumably tried to power on). That's also nerve-wracking. I had this problem and disassembled and reassembled the entire phone, only to have the problem again. On the second try, I plugged the phone into power, and after a little bit, got the dead battery screen showing. So the problem was that the battery was discharged, not that I'd biffed the LCD connector.

Adam Engst, · Reply

The hint to disconnect the battery was very useful for my successful repair. After rebooting the phone everything was working just fine. Thanks!

benjaminjrichter, · Reply

Actually I prefer to remove battery connector before taking step6

christmas, · Reply

Removal of the battery IS completely necessary IF you are truly trying to get your power button to work again. This guide completely leaves out the portion where you have to replace the power/volume/mute ribbon. If your power button is not responsive, you MUST replace this ribbon. With that being said, the battery sits on top of the ribbon and must be removed. I found it less likely to cause damage to the phone if you remove the logic board first, THEN remove the battery. Reason for this is that you'll have much more room to work with and you won't risk breaking anything on the logic board as you pry out the battery. Also use a guitar pick to help break away some of the adhesive. I truly think this guide should swap the steps for logic board removal and battery removal.

Dilan, · Reply

My phone is "searching" for my wireless provider. Has anyone had a problem like this?

graceyang, · Reply

My phone is "searching" for my wireless carrier. Anyone else have this problem?

graceyang, · Reply

do not pry the battery out you will break chips off the logic board and will cost over $400 to fix it. use the plastic tab to pull out the battery!!!!thanks ifixit for reuining my iphone 5!!!!

matt, · Reply

Yup, same here. WRONG WRONG WRONG guide. Following that step will seriously increase the chance you will damage your phone.

ngfrazier, · Reply

Just wanted to add to these comments, the clear plastic tab (says Authorized Service Provider Only on it) is the way to go. The plastic for this tab goes under the battery and around and through the adhesive, if you pull it at a 45° angle the battery comes off without the need to pry on it at all. You will want to pull with a constant force, as the adhesive is very strong, but it starts fairly easily, and comes up evenly-- you'll be able to see the glue releasing as you pull.

Scott Denowh, · Reply

Depending on exactly where your battery is glued, you will (or you won't) have enough room for the plastic opening tool. I didn't and had to leverage off the other side. Unlike the front cover which required surprisingly little force to remove it (almost ripped the flex cords joining the front and the back), the battery required superhuman strength to remove, destroying the two spodgers (parts yet to be found they flew off with such force) and deforming the battery (which personally I would have no use for reusing in any case).

oz, · Reply

Reading other comments of how applying too much force caused breaking of components I was too timid and the battery removal process was very time consuming. I recommend watching the video in the battery replacement guide. I was able to see how much force was being applied to remove the battery. I found that the opposite end of the plastic removal tool was bitting into my hand, which was more sensitive to the required pressure than that applied to the components. The adhesive was quite strong and I used the point end of a spudger to gradually pry up the battery where it was most stuck at the bottom right. As useful as the comment about using the plastic tab was, mine was slightly cut by the edge of a flat cable, it split and the tab came off, making prying the battery necessary. Being mindful of the balance of force is what makes the removal successful.

Canis Lupis, · Reply

STOP!!!! You don't need to remove the battery to complete this repair. I was having trouble removing the battery and saw a comment that it isn't needed. I was able to successfully complete this repair without removing the battery.

mark, · Reply

Can't stress enough that you shouldn't pry the battery out - use the clear plastic tab to lift it out as suggested by other comments. The tutorial doesn't tell you that there are sensitive circuits right next to the battery that will break off if you even apply a little bit of pressure. After that, the power button and home button may no longer work. This tutorial ruined my phone.

malusman, · Reply

I use credit card and put wider side to pry battery this make batter not deform easily

christmas, · Reply

do not pry on the logic board side pry for the volume keys side this

con, · Reply

I can confirm with con (mar 4). The adhesive was pretty firmly holding my battery down. So I used a metal screwdriver to help leverage the battery out from the top of the battery. Not knowing that the ribbon for the volume button and switch from the left side of the phone were under there. I severed the ribbon and now those buttons don't work anymore. But I was able to replace the battery and everything else works fine. I just have to learn how to live without those buttons anymore...

mknight, · Reply

*My plastic tag ripped while trying to pull the battery out.

*I then used a spudger type tool to GENTLY pry the battery out from the LEFT side of the case in the middle of the battery.

*Turns out all the adhesive is on the plastic tab side underneath the battery, so it is MUCH easier to leverage the battery out that way without causing damage. There is nothing you can really hurt on the left middle side either so I recommend this way if your plastic tab does not work to pull the battery up.

kjfolgner, · Reply

Removing the battery is not necessary, therefore strongly recommended against. Since battery MUST be discarded after removal.

Tom Chai, · Reply

"Since battery MUST be discarded after removal" why should it?

iwillfix,

How do you remove the volume and mute buttons with the battery in place?

Johnny, · Reply

I have removed the battery in many iphone 5 phones to repair other issues and never had a problem with reusing the battery.

dlash, · Reply

Hello from Cyprus there ...i have a problem when i open my iphone white lines appear on the screen so i disconnected the battery and then connect it again and the screen got black i mean black 'light ' no image appear at anyway ... Anyway i listen the sound when the phone open or change ... Any help to get reed of it?

Stelios, · Reply

Charge *. .

Stelios, · Reply

I can't recommend changing the battery, I did everything as shown but my iPhone doesn't work anymore. If I connect it to itunes it wants it to restore and when I do that. It sets itself back in recovery mode. I did not break anything and used only plastic tools to remove the parts. Even after I put the old battery back in it still shows the "connect to iTunes"

Does anyone have an idea what to do?

Patrick, · Reply

Have the same problem... Have you found any solutions?

Tadas Berlinskas,

Hi, I thought that when I prised the battery out, I'd knocked 2 chips off the logic board, chances are this is what's happened to you too... They need to change this tutorial to use the plastic tab to remove the battery as I've seen several people with this issue. The only way to fix this is to get 2 jumpers soldered onto the logic board. For now, I used tinyumbrella to get it out of recovery mode & I have enable to assistive touch options.

Lewis Spears,

Any luck finding a solution to this? I replaced my battery and the repair went relatively smoothly... but now it's stuck in an endless loop trying to restore the firmware. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

nathan domeij,

Quick tip: Don't completely peel away the plastic from the base of the phone. The plastic has a mechanical (but not electrical) purpose and should not be removed. The step directions make it seem that you can peel away the plastic, but don't do that. Peel and pry the battery out but leave the plastic in place. I made this mistake and Apple wouldn't repair my iPhone because the plastic was missing. The guy said that the plastic holds the circuitry in place and away from the battery. Do not remove the plastic.

tedgarey1, · Reply

My iphone 5 keeps switching from vibrate to ring randomly on its own. Do you think this would solve the problem"

dconnelly15, · Reply

Well, I followed all the instructions...took some time/muscle to get both the cover off and the battery out. I followed all the instructions and when I put it back together, all I get are white lines on the screen. shoulda paid the extra $50 for apple to do the battery replacement.

notlad1974, · Reply

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Ok Everyone that is damaging their board by prying the battery out from the circuit board side, (Don't Pry from that side) You need to pry from the left hand side of the battery by the frame of the phone. This way you won't damage anything on your board. I was following the directions just like everyone else and I noticed that it was going to potentially damage the board if I went that route. Doing it this way the battery just popped right out with no problems.

IFIXIT: You need to change this part in your instructions so people will stop damaging their phones.

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John Buckley, · Reply

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