iPhone 5 Display Assembly Replacement

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

Replace the display assembly on your iPhone 5.

Use this guide to replace your iPhone's cracked or otherwise damaged display assembly.

Relevant Parts
Image #1

Edit Step 1 Front Panel Assembly  ¶ 

  • Before disassembling your iPhone, be sure it is powered off.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

  • Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.

  • If you're opening an iPhone with cracked glass, neatly lay a couple strips of packing tape across the front and squeeze out as many bubbles as you can. This will give the suction cup a surface to grab, and minimize the spread of broken glass.

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly.

  • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

  • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

  • With a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup.

  • There are several clips attaching the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Continue to pry up around the sides of the front panel assembly, detaching the clips along the left and right side.

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Do not try to completely remove the front panel assembly from the rear case, as there are several ribbon cables still attached at the top of the iPhone.

  • Once the clips have been released on the bottom and sides of the front panel assembly, pull the bottom of the assembly away from the rear case.

  • Lift the front panel assembly slowly up to about 90 degrees from the rear case.

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:

    • Two 1.2 mm Phillips screws

    • One 1.6 mm Phillips screw

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

  • User note: To ensure correct installation, make sure you clip the small hooks of the bracket under and then lower towards the outside of the phone.

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the three front panel assembly cables:

    • Front-facing camera and sensor cable

    • Digitizer cable

    • LCD cable

      • When reassembling your phone, The LCD cable may pop off the connector. This can cause white lines, or nothing at all to appear when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

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Edit Step 10 Earpiece Speaker  ¶ 

  • Remove two screws securing the front-facing camera bracket to the display assembly.

    • One 4.1 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.2 mm Phillips screw

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Remove the earpiece speaker bracket from the display assembly.

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Remove the earpiece speaker from the iPhone.

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Edit Step 13 Front-Facing Camera and Sensor Cable  ¶ 

  • Starting under the earpiece speaker contacts, use a plastic opening tool or the tip of a spudger to pry the front facing camera cable out of the display assembly.

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Remove the front-facing camera and rear microphone assembly.

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Edit Step 15 Home Button Ribbon Cable  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the home button bracket to the display assembly.

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the edge of the home button ribbon cable up from the display assembly.

  • Start on the right, at the area of the ribbon cable between the gold contact points, and work to the left.

    • Going left to right may rip your ribbon cable as the contacts are well adhered to the front panel.

    • Prying directly at one one gold contact point or the other may break its soldering and pop it off the ribbon cable.

    • If you have trouble sliding the plastic opening tool under the contact points, flip the tool over and gently push against the right side of the contacts to loosen the adhesive, then try again.

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • No instructions yet.
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Edit Step 18 Display Assembly  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the home button up from the display assembly.

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Remove the home button from the display assembly.

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Remove two 1.2 mm Phillips screws from each side of the LCD frame (four total).

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Remove the two screws securing the LCD shield plate to the display assembly:

    • One 1.4 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.6 mm Phillips screw

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Remove the LCD shield plate from the display assembly.

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Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • The bare display assembly remains.

    • For reassembly, make sure to transfer over the LCD shield, home button, front facing camera assembly, front facing camera lens bezel and earpiece speaker to your new part.

  • Make sure to remove the protective cover from your new display assembly.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iPhone 5 device page.

Required Tools

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Small Suction Cup

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Plastic Opening Tools

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

As far as screens go, with the technology and build quality involved, I dont see this screen going under $200. Wasn't difficult at all, but there are still many steps involved. Great guide ifixit!

crevz, · Reply

thanx for all your great repair manuals

adam, · Reply

the fixit guides are really useful and great

adam, · Reply

Is it possible to replace only the front glass without the LCD-diplay and digitizer???

thisismyname, · Reply

The suctioncup solution could be tricky because a cracked display can be Very cracked. Try the good old metal spudger!

http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Metal-Spudge...

Ram it in between the cracked display and the middleframe about 5mm and bend downwards until the display come loose. Much easier.

Peter H, · Reply

Easier than I thought with the help of ifixit. Thank you so much!

Daryl Dean, · Reply

Overall the guide is very good!; I would add the following suggestions: if you are working with badly cracked screen, try putting first a small piece of contact paper first - about the size of the screen - (near the bottom of the phone) and then go with the plastic spudger; this will prevent damage to the case and will help a lot with the suction cup; this also will help with the small pieces of cracked glass preventing them from falling apart, and off course holding the damaged display together.

Mauricio Barreto, · Reply

My screen went in easily enough. But now it jitters around and presses buttons on its own when I'm not touching the screen. Totally sucks. Waiting for iPhone6 since I don't want to deal with another fix.

bsdaly1, · Reply

after replacing my screen is black, i can tell the phone is on. the display just wont light up. any ideas?

NickDiakos, · Reply

Brilliant guide, helped me no end, did find on my screen that I had to transfer the circular plastic around the camera lens, but apart from that this guide was invaluable. thanks

Chris, · Reply

Thanks for you Repair guide, it is a good job manuals.

Truemax, · Reply

so easy compared to the iPhone 4 - took me no more than 30 mins on my second phone - can be tricky if the frames been bent from a drop as my first one was. Good stuff - keep up the good work

Ben Watkins, · Reply

If your iPhone wont start after the operation hopefully it will work buy holding down home button and lock screen button. I spent 3 extra hours figuring that out in fear for my iPhone's life!

After looking online that seemed pretty common, so its absolutely worth to mention buy the ifixit crew as the last step.

vegste96, · Reply

Thanks simply simple to understand with the instructions provided thanks again:)

jason emmerson, · Reply

After I re installed the new screen i noticed it wouldnt fit as snug as the one before. Everything works except the headphone jack now. It sounds very faint and if i push on the screen near the headphone area it starts to sound better. Any suggestions on how to fix this?

Cory, · Reply

after the fix my phone wouldn't turn on which worried me but if you hold the power and home button it came on fine after 10seconds, maybe this should be added to the guide as it seems to be a common problem.

Archie Sinclair, · Reply

I have a much deeper appreciation for the workers who assemble these phones. Makes working on a laptop seem like working on a diesel truck in comparison! I highly recommend a clean, well lit workspace and at least an hour just in case something's fidgety. Problem areas include transferring the camera/speaker assembly and removing the contact pad from the home-button assembly. Remain calm and do not use too much force. Be prepared to spend some time on those things, otherwise a fairly simple process. Much nicer than the 4/4S, and I hope Apple continues to factor in the ease of screen replacement for all future models.

theneovega, · Reply

After installing the new screen and reassembling the phone I am getting lines of code on the opening Apple screen. Any ideas?? Thanks in advance.

hibdon, · Reply

Just replaced the display and battery on my cracked iPhone 5, worked flawlessly.

I didn't run into any glue problem. just be gentle and ease into it.

- The toughest part was the home button connector, but as long as you attack it from the right as noted here, you'll be fine, I can see how rushing / attacking through the left would ruin it.

- Also make sure the front facing camera is aligned with the hole when you re-assemble.

You can see that this is a late generation consumer electronic device from Apple, as this process is amazingly straightforward, and replacing the screen was designed into the product unlike earlier iPhone models (and iFixit gives you the insider knowledge you need).

gullaud, · Reply

Hey guys i´ve a big problem with my iphone 5 concerning the new touchscreen.

I´ve bought a complete touchscreen, with a new home button, camera and so on.

Today i´ve put the new one into my iphone in general it works but there are 2 big problems:

first the new touchscreen doesn´t keep on the iphone means that i´m not able to reassembly the screen at my phone because it´s almost moving and doesn´t i don't know how to say it "click" into the holes.

I think it´s important to know that I've changed the hole back cover but im as good as sure that I've put the parts that hold the screen the right way.

the second problem is about the home button and the two screws on the downer side of the iphone.

The hp doesn't react to anything and the two screws to not leave in the phone they do net become i don't know how to say it english im sorry

i mean so that they do not fall out on their own.

Would be great if you could help me because i really don't know what to do and need my iphone

Marsi, · Reply

If this is a part from iFixit please email support [at] ifixit [dot] com. If it's not, I would recommend talking to the company you purchased it from or post up on ifixit.com/answers

Scott Dingle,

The only way I differed from this guide was I used a Stanley knife at the bottom of the phone to remove the screen. The suction cup didn't work due to the screen being shattered.

Thank you very much

Joseph Buckton, · Reply

I would recommend keeping multiple pieces of double-sided tape for each step that requires removing screws. Also perhaps label them, or take notes, so you know which piece of tape (and the screws attached to it) go with which step number. It's easy to confuse screws, especially if you go past these instructions to remove everything required to replace the ribbon cable that is necessary for the buttons.

irwin fletcher, · Reply

Ordered and received the Phillips #00 Screwdriver ($5.95 · 50+ In stock). It is a tiny Philips screwdriver. The screws next to the lightning port have tiny star-shaped holes. I will have to find a different screwdriver.

jacklingwood, · Reply

Unfortunately, the kit I ordered that was to come with a suction cup didn't include one; thanks for quality control, ifixit. Tape doesn't work. Now what?

btarver, · Reply

I'm sorry to hear that. I have a suction cup being sent out today (Tue 3/11/14) and it will be there tomorrow for you.

Scott Dingle,

I found it was easier to start opening from the top left of the display and working straight down towards the home button as there are no clips in this particular area. I realize there are cables on the right side right next to the area, however, this way requires less force as a starting point. Let me know what you think.

boxerbc, · Reply

I think that's not a good idea as the top of the display is held in place with plastic tabs.

If you apply to much force they can break.

Johnny, · Reply

This part was the most frustrating part of the guide, granted I didn't do the whole thing. I was expecting to slip the plastic separator tool in-between the case and the display. This did not happen and I ate away at the tool in the process. For me after much pushing on the top edge of the case and pulling the screen away it released all of a sudden. I managed to make a dead stop at 90 degrees, but felt like I almost ripped off the ribbon cables(I didn't).

maxturkewitz, · Reply

The suction cup didn't work, because of my destroyed front glass.

So i take "tesa powers trips".

With that help, i had enough force to pull up the front display from the rear case.

ulrichstumm, · Reply

Suction cup didn't work for me. I tried for half hour with my nerd biceps. In the end, I inserted an xacto blade below the home button to create a gap big enough for me to put in a guitar pick and finally able to pry it open. In the process I scratched the frame so you have to be very careful if you decide to take this approach.

Meng, · Reply

Where can you buy "Tesa Powerstrips?

latraelmayo, · Reply

The glass on my phone was completely destroyed, making the suction cup entirely useless. I was pretty close to giving up when i tried putting a strip of clear packing tape on the screen and squishing out all the bubbles. Put the suction cup on this and it worked perfectly.

chriscopass, · Reply

Thank you. I broke the front glass with this technique..

Olivier S, · Reply

Used a suction cup from my Garmin Navi. The one you use to stick it to your windshield. It has a nice plastic "handle" and made things a lot easier... almost too easy that I nearly pulled the screen off the cables. Go easy on this step.

michaelychien, · Reply

I'd Advise Against The Suction Cup Here As It Will Separate The Glass From The Black/White Framing That You're Actually Supposed To Pry Under. I Found When Using The Suction Cup, The Glass Came Up, But The Framing Stayed Stuck. If You're Replacing The Entire Display It's Not As Much Of A Problem, But If You're Installing Any Other Part Or A Custom Housing, You'll Notice Your Screen Has A Bit Of "Play" When Pressing Down.

Resolve Repairs, · Reply

While holding down on the lower sides of the iPhone, I found inserting the plastic separator just to the right of the audio jack while gently applying pressure down and back from the edge popped the bottom of the display assembly up. Keep in mind to do this while pulling back on the suction cup ring, like the guide says constant, but gentle force at the same time. Another note is to have the suction cup ring vertical to align with the length of the display, that made the process much easier.

Canis Lupis, · Reply

You rock! I was having trouble getting the thing to budge, but the moment I put the plastic tool near the audio jack, the screen immediately popped up.

Justin,

I've been using a metal flat opening tool along with the suction cup to pop these bad boys open - remember the tape on the screen trick if you have a smashed screen - so the suction cup can grip and stops the glass going everywhere!

Ben Watkins, · Reply

Definitely a difficult step. Make sure not to pry the screen from framing. Also, I kept pushing the power button on while attempting separate the frame. Keep your fingers clear from the top of the phone because having it turn on while the casing is popped is a little nerve racking!

Andrew, · Reply

I had trouble with this step too, since I had to apply quite a lot of force on the suction cup when pulling up on the screen while holding down on the frame with my fingernails. Eventually it popped free, but came almost to 90 degrees before I was able to stop it. No damage, but nerve-wracking, and if there was a better technique, it would be good to figure it out and share the information here.

Adam Engst, · Reply

Be very gentle! I overdid it and, though the repair was successful, there's now a bit of play when pressing on the top right quadrant of the screen.

plasticpool, · Reply

When reinserting the screen, be sure to start from the top and insert the plastic tabs on the screen into the case before advancing the rest of the screen into place, finishing at the bottom. The screen will snap into place once lined up to complete the insertion.

jeff, · Reply

This is actually very important, I was having trouble getting the front panel to go on by starting at the top. I started from the bottom instead and the bottom ended up secure, but not the top. I then tried to take the front panel back off, but because the top portion was already loose the force required to pull off the bottom led to one of the ribbon cables at the top of phone breaking.

jjensik11,

STOP HERE AND SKIP TO STEP 27

There is no need to remove any of the other parts from the iPhone at this point and save yourself time, you will also be less likely to damage anything, if your are skilled you need not remove the LCD - just prop it up and follow my edit to remove the buzzer on step 27.

g4tch, · Reply

Anyone have any idea why the 1.6mm screw is not magnetic? Just wondering why this screw seems to be made of aluminum, its the first screw of its kind as far as iphones go.

crevz, · Reply

The compass is right next to it.

Tom Chai,

the #00 phillips screwdriver was not close to being able to budge the 2 1.2mm screws. fine for the 1.6mm, but i now have a useless phone and no tools to continue the repair. disappointingly bad guidance from ifixit

BRIANHORSLEY, · Reply

is it necessary to disconnect the front panel assembly cables fore removing the battery ?

or can you leave it on wile replacing the battery ?

aardappel, · Reply

I just finished this process using the battery replacement kit from ifixit and it went easily. I did NOT remove the entire screen but rather just had someone hold it at less than a 90 degree angle until I got the battery out. I found it took a while to slowly pry the battery out. Take your time and alternate between gently using the plastic tool and pulling on the plastic pull tab that says "for authorized use only" or something like that. It was MUCH easier than disconnecting the entire screen for the process. Hope this helps.

david,

Rule #1 on electronics repair methodology: to prevent damage to the electronics, power should be the first thing to be removed and the last to be restored. I'd disconnect the battery before touching anything else, a slip of the screwdriver or a loose screw could cause a fatal short circuit.

andrewcilia, · Reply

It's no need to remove front panel to change battery. I just skip to Step 10 and successfully changed battery, and it works well. And THANKS TO ifixit.com, IT IS AWESOME!

sorrowboy, · Reply

My iPhone 5 (1428) model don't has this bracket and replacing the earpiece don't fix my problem (don't hear anyone).

plyhell, · Reply

Great Guide, Any idea what else could be wrong if Ive replaced the screen with a working 1 and the phone still has no display?

Thanks for any insight in advance.

Raistlin, · Reply

When you reverse step 7, make sure you clip the little hooks of the bracket under and then lower towards the outside of the phone. If you don't, the phone won't snap back together properly.

Dirk, · Reply

The part itfixit sent only has two cables: the digitizer and LCD are combined into a single cable. (And the guide is great! Thanks!)

baileyswanson, · Reply

After replacing the screen I was presented with a no image screen (but backlight was ok), so I refited the shartered one, same issue, no image, but backlight. thinking I might damage the pcb, I just did a power cycle (disconnecting the battery) and now it's fine.

so... always powercycle :)

poseido, · Reply

Be very careful here, at this point the phone power is live! a slip of the connectors or a loose screw could let the magic smoke out of the chips (chips won't work without their magic smoke, you know :-)

I'd disconnect the battery before messing with the connectors.

andrewcilia, · Reply

This is a troublesome step, since the LCD connector is particularly difficult to reconnect, and know that you've gotten it on. And thanks to the note claiming that if it's disconnected, if you might just get a black screen, you're left with having to disassemble the entire unit again, without knowing if it's powered off (since you presumably tried to power on). That's also nerve-wracking. I had this problem and disassembled and reassembled the entire phone, only to have the problem again. On the second try, I plugged the phone into power, and after a little bit, got the dead battery screen showing. So the problem was that the battery was discharged, not that I'd biffed the LCD connector.

Adam Engst, · Reply

The hint to disconnect the battery was very useful for my successful repair. After rebooting the phone everything was working just fine. Thanks!

benjaminjrichter, · Reply

I just replaced mine on 10/6/13. WARNING: the black plastic spacer for the upper screw could come loose when taking the bracket off. Be very careful.

cappich, · Reply

There is a tiny black plastic spacer under the top screw, be sure not to lose this. It is easier to reinstall it after all of the parts have been transferred to the new screen including the front facing camera assembly. The spacer has a small cutout in it, which is positioned to the left side. Put this spacer in as the last step before reinstalling the metal speaker bracket, otherwise you risk losing it moving the screen around reattaching all the parts to the new screen.

crevz, · Reply

One additional note to the above comment, the gap in the little spacer goes on the left, but the flat side of the spacer goes on top. Took me a few minutes to figure out that orientation.

vhfreak, · Reply

There a small square black plastic "gasket" next to the 2 copper contact points. Be sure it is back in place before putting back the screws holding the earpiece speaker in place.

Rany, · Reply

Sensor cable breaks very easily, take it off with extreme caution or you will break it like I did. Easy to fix though, and only $8 on ebay

Bill Snow, · Reply

The replacement display assembly that I ordered did not include the circular plastic piece that holds the front facing camera in place. I used tweezers to remove it from my old screen. There is a similar piece of plastic (square) holding a separate piece of the microphone assembly in there too. Also, there is a very tiny opaque white sheet of plastic covering the proximity sensor in the original iphone display that I used tweezers to remove as well. That tiny black plastic spacer threw me for a loop when I found it on the table. I couldn't find a good picture of exactly how that is supposed to fit in there...I think I put it back in the right spot...

Ryan Griswold, · Reply

The display that I received from iFixit Store didn't include them either. I swapped them to the new display by heating up the glue using a haidryer. Next step, I pulled the circular facetime camera plastic piece out with a tweezer. And the metal sensor square bracked was removed by cutting lose the glue with a razor blade. Re-apply glue on the new display!

Spacewide,

The front-facing camera and rear microphone assembly I received didn't include some of the foam protectors that are on the original assembly. I was unable to remove those pieces from the original assembly so completed the install w/o the foam pieces. The phone works ok but I would rather have been able to apply the foam pieces. I suspect the foam is there to keep everything in place and maybe help keep the connector from popping off.

jharrison, · Reply

Does anybody know what that little white piece of tape is that covers the proximity sensor? Is it some type of filter? I know the proximity sensor won't work if you do not have that, but I can not find any source on what it is or where you can purchase a replacement at in case the original screen doesn't have it already. Perhaps there is something you can put in there as an alternative?

Rob, · Reply

The tiny spacer of brown plasti sits on top of the thread of the screw right above front camera where the metal cover attach. It took me a while to discover that cause at first i thought it was a frame of one of the sensor on the ribbon cable. It only stays on place in one position, so try rotate it if you find it hard to put spacer, ribbon, metal cover and screw.

Sara bulho, · Reply

Home Button Ribbon Cable is very difficult to remove and easily to tear off.

Be careful when you try to remove it

Mash Love, · Reply

It might just be bad luck, but the left screw on the home button backing would not budge and I ended up stripping it. I just had to order a new home button & bracket, fortunately. I also experienced the inverse, where the screw wells of the new screen on another phone did not hold the screws down. I wouldn't encourage you to try this at home, but a little super glue can go a long way!

Derek Carper, · Reply

Use 99% Isopropyl Alcohol (or as high % as you can get) to act as a lubricant for that stuck screw holding the left side of the home button. Like above poster said, I had the same problem with that screw. The alcohol works wonders! (I work in a clean room where lubricant is not allowed, so Isopropyl Alcohol is commonly used for this purpose)

stretchymantis, · Reply

Hit it and the home button with a little heat, it eases in removing the button and ribbon that have a little bit of adhesive.

crevz, · Reply

I used a hairdryer to losen up the glue under the contacts.

Spacewide, · Reply

Soak it in 99% Isopropyl Alcohol (or as high of a % you can get). It will help loosen the adhesive quite nicely. :)

stretchymantis, · Reply

I was having issues with the new home button ribbon cable working consistently after the repair. Calibrated the new part by going into a stock Apple app and holding the power button until the "off" prompt appeared. From there I held the home button until it exited the "off" prompt which re-calibrated the home button. After that everything was good to go! =)

ilau1337, · Reply

I had a bit of a tough time remove the sticky gasket that sits around the home button. I almost tore it during removal.

baileyswanson, · Reply

It was pretty harder at the beginning to remove the home button as baileyswanson mentioned here. But you can loosen up the glue with an Ifixit Heat Gun or a hairdryer.

Spacewide, · Reply

I used this to remove a "big" dent from the top right corner of my iPhone, thank you so much! :)

Francesco, · Reply

I am looking for the glue that is used for fixing the LCD and touch panel, Can anyone suggest me which is that and how to apply?

Tobin,

Soak it in 99% Isopropyl Alcohol (or as high of a % you can get). It will help loosen the adhesive quite nicely. :)

stretchymantis, · Reply

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