iPhone 4S Rear Camera Replacement

Removing your iPhone 4S' 8 MP rear camera.

Use this guide to remove the iPhone's primary rear camera.

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Edit Step 1 Rear Panel  ¶ 

  • Before disassembling your iPhone, be sure it is powered off.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe screws next to the dock connector.

  • During reassembly, we recommend you replace the 5-point screws with equivalent Phillips screws. Our Liberation Kit provides the tools and screws needed to replace the Pentalobe screws with Phillips screws.

  • The 5-Point Screwdriver should only be used once, as it has the potential to strip the screws.

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Push the rear panel toward the top edge of the iPhone.

  • The panel will move about 2 mm.

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Pull the rear panel away from the back of the iPhone, being careful not to damage the plastic clips attached to the rear panel.

  • Remove the rear panel from the iPhone.

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Edit Step 4 Battery  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws securing the battery connector to the logic board:

    • One 1.7 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.5 mm Phillips screw.

  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently detach the battery connector from the device.

  • Pay attention to the pressure contact underneath the top screw of the battery connector. This may come loose while prying the battery connector from its socket.

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to pull the pressure contact from underneath the battery connector.

  • When reinstalling the pressure contact, be sure to clean it with a degreaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to create wireless interference.

  • Take notice of the position of the small black ground clip on the upper screw of the battery connector. This clip is attached only by the upper screw. When reinstalling, it must be aligned so the gold contact point will press against the back cover.

  • Be VERY careful not to remove the pressure contact point from the logic board. There are 4 very small soldering points awaiting this mistake!

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Insert the edge of a plastic opening tool between the battery and the outer case near the bottom left corner of the iPhone.

  • Run the plastic opening tool along the right edge of the battery and pry up at several points to completely separate it from the adhesive securing it to the outer case.

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Use the exposed clear plastic pull tab to peel the battery off the adhesive securing it to the iPhone.

  • Remove the battery.

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Edit Step 8 Rear Camera  ¶ 

  • Be wary of the outer plastic ring located on top of the rear camera's flash assembly. It can be easily displaced if not removed during disassembly.

  • You can use tweezers, a plastic opening tool, or a spudger to remove the outer plastic ring.

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Remove the following four screws securing the cable cover to the logic board:

    • One 2.7 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.6 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.3 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.2 mm Phillips screw

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the cable cover tabs out of their slots cut into the EMI shield on the logic board.

  • Lift the cable cover from its edge nearest the top and remove it from the iPhone.

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the rear camera connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be careful not to break any components off the surrounding area on the logic board as you pry upwards.

  • Remove the rear camera from the iPhone.

  • There is a small rubber gasket that sits underneath the rear-facing camera. Make sure that it is properly seated before reassembly.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iPhone 4S device page.

Required Tools

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Tweezers

$6.95 · 50+ In stock

Plastic Opening Tools

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

The Liberation Kit just stripped the screw. Now what.

nimpsy, · Reply

Had local iPhone repair shop remove the screw. Repair complete!

nimpsy,

I left the battery in and everything above the middle, using a pen knife to flex the logic board, I had plenty of room to else the old out and the new in.

Worked well and saved a lot of time.

Keith M, · Reply

After reviewing the steps I decided to follow this guy's advice and left the battery in.....one less item to possibly foul up. I don't know if it made it any faster (first time to open my phone, so nothing to compare it to) but I can say that my phone is charging for the first time in 6 months :D

Jennifer,

BEFORE YOU START:

1) This is doable but not easy, quick or without risk.

2) If this is your 1st time, the whole process can take >2 hours (half of it reading this fixit manual and notes, which I highly recommend!)

3) I highly recommend placing a large, thin clean white cloth on the table. This prevents screws from rolling around and you will clearly see anything falling out.

4) If you have them, use tight surgical (latex) gloves. This prevents you from greasing up contacts.

5) Have e.g. a big old egg box ready, so you can place the screws in order (and maybe write step/screw size on the side).

6) I bought my display from "Generic" on Amazon ($20.36). Screen works fine and tools were ok but not great (screw drivers do not withstand force needed to unscrew some).

7) I had my own 2mm Phillips screw driver and a 2.4mm flat (for the big screws).

8) Have a nice cold beer by your side! Good luck!

superedu111, · Reply

how can i take out the screw if it is stripped

Manny Chaidez, · Reply

with a small driller, but I guess it is very difficult. Never attempted that myself on an iPhone.

lantzero,

There is no screw in Step 2?

Is the screw stripped or the head stripped?

I have used superglue on the screwdriver to remove a stripped screw, it would turn but not come out, with superglue I could turn and pull the screw out. May also work on a stripped head.

Trevor,

If you are careful, use a Dremel tool and a micro drill bit (sold where Dremel tools are purchased) to drill it out. Last resort kind of thing, good luck.

Jack, · Reply

On my phone at least, there is a small gold and black part held down under the top screw. It goes black side up with the pressure contact touching the back of the phone when the cover is in place. Keep an eye out for correct orientation as you dismantle.

James Molyneux, · Reply

I also had a small black and gold connector held down by the top screw on this step.

Kevin Keenan, · Reply

I was missing the lower screw in this step. Reinstalling the other screw was difficult. Screw either stripped or (I think) screwdriver 00 is not right for removing this/ifixit screwdriver sucks.

maxrobins, · Reply

While the text refers to the pressure contact, the pictures do not show it clearly. The closet one that does has the yellow circle covering much of it. I was not sure if it was under or on top of the cover when re-installing. It's under.

gregsrow, · Reply

This step needs a few more caveats.

The bottom screw on my phone was locked with some thread adhesive, and required more force to loosen it than I expected.

Even after removing the screws, the battery connector was rather firmly seated, and required a fair bit of persistent gentle prying with the opening tool before it came loose.

The ground clip came loose and nearly flew off while loosening the connector, so it would really help people if there were a warning on this step to watch out for the ground clip and make sure it doesn't bounce away.

threephi, · Reply

Despite putting a large amount of pressure on the screw I can't get the blades of the 00 to take. Has anyone tried with a 000 and does it work better?

abeardsa, · Reply

The 00 didn't work much for me but I had more success with a Phillips #0

DMcG,

I find the #00 doesn't work either. I use the #000 and it works better for me.

Keith,

The battery connector is attached to the battery. You're not going to completely lift it out and remove it. It pulls out from the socket you can see in step 5 picture 3. The pressure contact (little black and gold thing) will probably just slide out from under the connector. Not a problem.

DMcG, · Reply

Which screwdriver works best then. I got the #00 philips from ifixit. I agree - it strips the screw and does not work. I don't recommend it.

I am now trying to buy another screwdriver - but which one. #0 or #000. Anyone done this. Please help!

andrepoon, · Reply

I lost the screws securing the battery connector to the logic board, what happens when I turn on my iphone without securing screws, as shown in step 4, please solution. thank you

Afriyadi, · Reply

The iFixit screwdriver that is recommended and provided will strip the screws here. HOLD OFF. I bought a ph000 screwdriver off the internet. Worked fine. Don't be tempted to proceed with the ph00 from iFixit. IT WILL STRIP!!

andrepoon, · Reply

I completed this repair without removing the battery. I think the guide should be edited to note that battery removal is not necessary.

M C, · Reply

I completed this successfully, but this step gave me the most trouble. The pressure contact is really difficult to reseat. So much so that it should probably be called out more clearly in it's own step.

Greg Fulco, · Reply

If your pressure contact pops out you might find the video at http://www.hightechdad.com/2013/05/07/ho... helpful

Martin Cleaver, · Reply

When reinstalling the position of pressure contact must be explained better! It took me about 5 min to understand how it fit!

Jorge, · Reply

If I did accidentally remove the pressure contact point from the logic board...what do I do?

Samuel Z, · Reply

I also did this. Not sure what its for? My phone appears to be fine now without it.

Ian Booth,

This picture needs to be greatly enlarged! The pressure plate sits directly underneath the battery connector, but cannot be seen here. It is also flat but about half the size of the battery connector, so you won't know you've ripped it up until you have! Picture two slices of bread but not the same size, stuck together.

S Byers, · Reply

What if you pop off that pressure contact point?? What is its function? Is it impossible to re-attach?

Ian Booth, · Reply

No idea what exactly this step means. I just pulled the battery connector without trying to move the pressure contact. Installed new battery, plugged in connector and aligned the pressure contact slightly for the screw to fit.

Got a big scare as the phone would not connect to the cell network at first boot, only WiFi. Shut it off and when it rebooted it seemed to work. WIll probably know in a day or so if everything works fine or if there are interference issues, etc.

andries, · Reply

I also accidentally removed the pressure contact. I put it back in place as best I could during reassembly and so far haven't ran into any problems.

Maynard Stevens, · Reply

The black & copper contact piece is missing from my iPhone. Does that explain why my phone won't restore and keeps re-booting? I have tried every kind of restore with no luck. Any ideas?

ozarkana, · Reply

After reassembling the iPhone I the GSM connection wasn't working. After cleaning all parts with isopropyl alcohol it still didn't work. What solved my problem was to turn on WiFi and then synchronizing the date and time which was set to 1970-01-01. After a reboot everything worked just fine. :)

Florian, · Reply

The black ground contact needs still more "flagging." This is a simple metal strip that is attached ONLY by the 1.5mm (upper) screw. It will help if you look at it before you remove the upper screw. Notice the gold contact arm and point. That contact point must be in a plane above every other surface inside the device when you replace the battery connector, because it makes a ground contact with the metallic inner surface of the device back plate.

When I replaced it, I used the Pentalobe driver to line up battery connector and ground contact with the screw socket post. I then attached the 1.7mm (lower) screw loosely, removed the Pentalobe driver gently, and inserted the 1.5mm (upper) screw into the assembly. There is a tab on the ground contact that helps it align properly once pressure begins to applied. I completed driving the upper screw, pressing lightly with the spudger on the battery connector plate to make sure it was seated on the pressure contacts. Finally, I completed driving the lower screw.

Matt McCaffrey, · Reply

This is a hard step because the directions and pictures are not very clear. This might help:

1) Here you HAVE TO disconnect the battery connecter (the language is confusing).

2) This is easier than it looks, as you can simply lift the connector upwards from any angle (I rested my plastic tool on the antenna and gently lifted it up).

The photo suggests you have to pull the connector backwards (which would be hard), this is not true, it can be lifted up towards you (the pins go out backwards and upwards, you'll see).

Finally, don't confuse the "pressure contact" with the "pressure contact point". You remove the contact, the contact point (underneath) sits on the board. No need to worry about this.

superedu111, · Reply

This can be very tricky because sometimes theres just too many glue on the back of the battery, and eventually the battery will be deformed.

Carlos Lopes, · Reply

Yes, there did seem to be a lot of glue holding my battery in. At first I was afraid of breaking it, but after reading up on the subject I've learned that it is okay if the battery gets a little deformed. Due to the nature of the battery it will still work if slightly deformed.

djlogic26, · Reply

I found the plastic pull tab to be useless. Peeled pretty much the whole battery out from the left side. Used a probe to "break" a few strands of glue to help. Just watch the connector and ribbon cable in the lower left corner as you pry up so you don't crimp them or damage them.

gregsrow, · Reply

DO NOT remove the battery unless absolutely necessary. If the battery is removed from the phone, DO NOT reuse it, ifixit does not seem to understand the importance of safely handling the battery

Tom Chai, · Reply

Tom you have never been so wrong. Removing the battery is the FIRST step ANYONE should do before repairing or attempting repairs on their phone. The iPhone has many different grounding points in the phone and having electrical current running to it poses a massive risk, especially with ESD (ElectroStatic Discharge). People, PLEASE make sure you remove your phone's battery FIRST before doing any repairs. Use a plastic, not metal, spudger, after unhooking the battery from the logic board, place the spudger along the right side of the battery NOT under the volume buttons, about an inch and a half lower (two roughly if a sim card is present) and start prying it up using the frame as the fulcrum, as you start to lift the battery from the adhesive make sure you slide the spudger farther under to get even contact so you do not damage the battery.

Prestige Computer Solutions,

Try a used plastic credit/gift card to apply gentle pressure to lift the battery out of the phone, the short edge of the card fits within the gap on the logic board side between the battery and video cables. You can also use it on the opposite side if there is room between the battery and iPhone frame. This has worked on all of the 4 and 4s models I've replaced screens on.

I offer an alternative image if interested.

Wallace Karraker, · Reply

Hello! My clients iphone 4s:n battery connector broke, when i tried accidentally take the battery out with a plastic tool from the wrong side.

Connector detached completely, so that the two middle ironcensors came with it and was stuck to the connector. When i screw the whole connector back to phone, it works with battery power, but the batterys downloading doesnt work. Are these two middle censors that are stuck in the connector exactly the ones that should be charging the battery? Do you know how i can fix this? I have already bought electrical conductor glue, but should the parts be cleaned somehow first? And how can i fix it, when the center metal sensors on the system board is also attached to the battery?

How can i clean out thiskind of part with windex? I have purchased almost all of the possible tools from iFixit and the electrical conductor glue i bought somewhere else. (http://www.ebay.com/itm/300915727408?ssP...)

SebastianK, · Reply

Removing the battery wasn't necessary. I attempted the removal but decided not to in the end. It didn't get in the way at all.

BigFatCat, · Reply

i also skipped the battery removal step. the battery didn't get in the way, but it did make it difficult to see if the wifi grounding fingers (step 14) were underneath the case lip. everything worked in the end though so i don't think removing the battery is a strict requirement.

rippergirl, · Reply

How can you not remove the battery in a battery replacement fix? Step 14, there are only 7 steps. Me thinks these comments are getting mixed up between different fixes!

bluezzer,

I did not remove the battery to do a Speaker replacement and had no issues with getting the Speaker out/in. So, steps 4 and 5 are required but not step 6.

rcrodriguez2, · Reply

The plastic tab is not attached to the battery. I just pried from the right and slid tools under until I broke all the adhesive.

DMcG, · Reply

I found it easier to start by pulling the plastic lip to loosen the battery, then, if needed, use the plastic tool to pry from the side.

superedu111, · Reply

Be VERY careful NOT to pull off the part of the connector that is on the logic board! Mine now has only contact but no solder until I can get a small enough soldering iron and a less shaky pair of hands!

Rob Hendricks, · Reply

I lost the 1.5mm and 1.7mm screws when replacing my 4s battery. Is there a place that sells just these two screws? I bought a 4s screw kit from Zeeton.com but figuring out which screw out the of 39 screws were the the 1.5mm and 1.7mm was impossible.

admin, · Reply

Buy a cheap pair of digital callipers ($20 -$30) and it will be clear. You can then use them to measure all kinds of things instead of squinting with a ruler.

bluezzer,

I bent the wire of the silent button on right top of the battery. Now the silent botton don't work. The wire on the bent is half-cut. BE CAREFUL when you put the new battery inside!

orzo, · Reply

Was having a hard time getting the screws back into the battery connector. Read another tip online that helped - pushed the end of my phillips screwdriver into some soft candle wax which gave it just enough stickyness to have the screw stay attached to the screwdriver while I was moving it toward the hole. Thought I'd pass that along.

bill, · Reply

I did as wazzamagu did (and stated above), "My Pentalobe tool was slightly magnetized so I used that to bring the screws in for tightening with the Philips screwdriver." That made replacing the screws fairly easy. Thanks for all the advice on this page. It was not hard at all. Go slow and carefully, everything is smaller in there than I expected. The "searching" thing came up as it seems for most people, but just took a reboot and all is fine.

amorteguy, · Reply

TO ALL WITH NETWORK PROBLEMS!

I had the same issue with "searching network". After resetting the network settings in settings it did work perfectly!

Klemt, · Reply

Instructions were good and everything works fine after replacement. Needed to use a tweezer on the pressure contact on the top screw of the battery. Thanks

jeff, · Reply

Sometimes found stuck to the inside of the back cover.

Jeremy Jones, · Reply

Don't do it!!! you can skip that, it will stay and its more of a pain to remove it.

Nic Harper, · Reply

I was not able to really screw any of these screws back in successfully using Ifixit's screwdriver. I did the best that I could and reattached and replacement camera is functional AOK.

Not sure if it is because has been repaired before -- front screen replacement -- or if screws just fragile and screwdriver sucks.

Plan to see if can get replacement screws for inside the device.

maxrobins, · Reply

On reassembly, note that the metal lip below the (red) 2.7mm screw and to the right of the (green) 1.2mm screw goes between the ribbon cable and the main logic board, as can be seen in the picture for Step 12. If you don't get this right, the 2.7mm screw is difficult and, worse, there's a risk the edge of the lip will tear the ribbon cable.

David Bruce, · Reply

If you just very slightly twist this plate clockwise as you are lifting it out, it will help as there is a little hooked piece at the lower edge on the very far right. You have to be careful not to turn it too much though because this hooked piece is right beside a ribbon that could be damaged.

Trisch, · Reply

Im pretty sure that when you reinsert the cam the grounding clip has go to between metal sticker and the cam body, or the camra wont be grounded

Michael Rygaard, · Reply

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