iPhone 4S Earpiece Speaker Replacement

Replace a blown-out earpiece speaker in your iPhone 4S.

Use this guide to replace a blown-out earpiece speaker.

Image #1

Edit Step 1 Rear Panel  ¶ 

  • Before disassembling your iPhone, be sure it is powered off.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe screws next to the dock connector.

  • During reassembly, we recommend you replace the 5-point screws with equivalent Phillips screws. Our Liberation Kit provides the tools and screws needed to replace the Pentalobe screws with Phillips screws.

  • The 5-Point Screwdriver should only be used once, as it has the potential to strip the screws.

Image #1

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Push the rear panel toward the top edge of the iPhone.

  • The panel will move about 2 mm.

Image #1

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Pull the rear panel away from the back of the iPhone, being careful not to damage the plastic clips attached to the rear panel.

  • Remove the rear panel from the iPhone.

Image #1

Edit Step 4 Battery  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws securing the battery connector to the logic board:

    • One 1.7 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.5 mm Phillips screw.

  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently detach the battery connector from the device.

  • Pay attention to the pressure contact underneath the top screw of the battery connector. This may come loose while prying the battery connector from its socket.

Image #1

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to pull the pressure contact from underneath the battery connector.

  • When reinstalling the pressure contact, be sure to clean it with a degreaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to create wireless interference.

  • Take notice of the position of the small black ground clip on the upper screw of the battery connector. This clip is attached only by the upper screw. When reinstalling, it must be aligned so the gold contact point will press against the back cover.

  • Be VERY careful not to remove the pressure contact point from the logic board. There are 4 very small soldering points awaiting this mistake!

Image #1

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Insert the edge of a plastic opening tool between the battery and the outer case near the bottom left corner of the iPhone.

  • Run the plastic opening tool along the right edge of the battery and pry up at several points to completely separate it from the adhesive securing it to the outer case.

Image #1

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Use the exposed clear plastic pull tab to peel the battery off the adhesive securing it to the iPhone.

  • Remove the battery.

Image #1

Edit Step 8 Dock Connector Cable  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws securing the dock connector cable cover to the logic board:

    • One 1.5 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.2 mm Phillips screw

  • Remove the metal dock connector cable cover.

Image #1

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the dock cable up from its socket on the logic board.

Image #1

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Peel the dock connector cable off the adhesive securing it to the logic board and the side of the speaker enclosure.

Image #1

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the cellular antenna cable up from its socket on the logic board.

  • De-route the cellular antenna cable out from under the metal fingers attached to the logic board.

Image #1

Edit Step 12 Rear Camera  ¶ 

  • Be wary of the outer plastic ring located on top of the rear camera's flash assembly. It can be easily displaced if not removed during disassembly.

  • You can use tweezers, a plastic opening tool, or a spudger to remove the outer plastic ring.

Image #1

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Remove the following four screws securing the cable cover to the logic board:

    • One 2.7 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.6 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.3 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.2 mm Phillips screw

Image #1

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the cable cover tabs out of their slots cut into the EMI shield on the logic board.

  • Lift the cable cover from its edge nearest the top and remove it from the iPhone.

Image #1

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the rear camera connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be careful not to break any components off the surrounding area on the logic board as you pry upwards.

  • Remove the rear camera from the iPhone.

  • There is a small rubber gasket that sits underneath the rear-facing camera. Make sure that it is properly seated before reassembly.

Image #1

Edit Step 16 SIM Card  ¶ 

  • Use a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip to eject the SIM card and its holder.

  • This may require a significant amount of force.

  • Remove the SIM card and its holder.

Image #1

Edit Step 17 Logic Board  ¶ 

  • Remove the five cables near the top of the logic board in the following order:

    • Headphone jack/volume button cable

    • Front facing camera cable

    • Digitizer cable

    • Display data cable

    • Power button cable (located underneath the headphone jack/volume button cable as shown in the second picture.)

  • To disconnect the cables, use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently lift their connectors up and out of the sockets on the logic board.

  • Be careful not to break any of the small and delicate surface mount components as you disconnect the cables.

Image #1

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Remove the 1.5 mm Phillips screw securing the grounding clip to the logic board near the headphone jack.

Image #1

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the small grounding clip up off the logic board.

  • Carefully grasp the grounding clip and remove it from the iPhone.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the grounding clip (not the mating halves of connectors) with a de-greaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause grounding issues.

Image #1

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the 4.8 mm standoff near the headphone jack.

Image #1

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to disconnect the Wi-Fi antenna from the logic board.

Image #1

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • If present, peel the piece of black tape covering the hidden screw near the power button.

  • Remove the 2.6 mm Phillips screw securing the logic board near the power button.

    • (Use caution when removing this screw and removing the power contact held by it; the contact tab will come loose with the screw)

  • Notice the small rubber bumper under the screen & digitizer cables (which are detached at top above the Q-code). This bumper can fall off of the logic board when removed or get stuck to the cables and fall off later.

Image #1

Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the case:

    • One 2.5 mm Phillips screw near the vibrator motor

    • One 2.4 mm Phillips screw

    • One 3.6 mm standoff along the side of the logic board nearest the battery opening.

  • Use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the single 3.6 mm standoff.

Image #1

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Carefully lift the logic board from the end closest to the speaker enclosure and slide it away from the top edge of the iPhone.

  • Remove the logic board.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the logic board (not the mating halves of connectors) with a de-greaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause grounding issues.

  • There is a small rubber bumper that sits on the top edge of the logic board where the digitizer and screen cables come through the case. It protects the cables as they bend over the top of the logic board. This can either get stuck to the cables or fall off the logic board when it comes out. Look back over step 22 for more details.

Image #1

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Be sure not to lose the small grounding finger for the rear facing camera near the power button. This finger rests on top of the PCB, screwed down, and covered with the adhesive black plastic tape.

Image #1

Edit Step 26 Front Facing Camera  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to carefully pry the metal front facing camera retainer away from the case of your iPhone.

  • Remove the front facing camera retainer.

Image #1

Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • Remove the front facing camera.

Image #1

Edit Step 28 Power Button  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the power button bracket to the outer case.

  • Slightly pull the power button bracket away from the outer case.

Image #1

Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • Use a pair of tweezers to remove the power button from the iPhone.

  • During reassembly, take note of the correct orientation of the power button. The metal loop should be facing downwards and the outward edges should be on top.

Image #1

Edit Step 30 Power and Sensor Cable Assembly  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the earpiece speaker off the adhesive securing it to the outer case. Note that the power button cable is glued to the the case as well, and will need to be pried up.

  • Use a pair of tweezers to unfold the earpiece speaker from its recess in the outer case,

  • Do not completely remove the earpiece speaker as it is still attached to the power and sensor cable assembly.

Image #1

Edit Step 31  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of plastic opening tool to gently move the top sensor assembly away from the outer case.

  • Gently pry the top sensor assembly off the outer case.

Image #1

Edit Step 32  ¶ 

  • Lift and remove the power and sensor cable assembly from the iPhone.

  • Be sure not to lose the small retainer clip located on the top sensor assembly.

Image #1

Edit Step 33 Earpiece Speaker Assembly  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to peel the earpiece speaker off the foam adhesive securing it to the iPhone.

  • If you wish to reuse the earpiece speaker, try not to tear the foam adhesive that secures it to the iPhone's case.

  • Remove the earpiece speaker.

Image #1

Edit Step 34 Earpiece Speaker  ¶ 

  • Earpiece speaker remains.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iPhone 4S device page.

Required Tools

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Flathead 3/32" or 2.5 mm Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Tweezers

$6.95 · 50+ In stock

Plastic Opening Tools

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Related Products

iPhone 4S Earpiece Speaker

$14.95 · 50+ In stock

Recommended Tools

Universal Drive Adapter

$29.95 · 50+ In stock

iFixit Lock Pick Set

$29.95 · 50+ In stock

Inspection Scope

$39.95 · 50+ In stock

Frictionless Ratchet

$24.95 · 50+ In stock

Portable Anti-Static Mat

$34.95 · 39 In stock

Comments Comments are onturn off

Is the earpiece the same as for the iPhone 4?

info, · Reply

Followed the steps and completed this guide with no problems. Very easy to follow and so happy to be able to hear my conversations now! :) thanks iFix it staff!

ifix, · Reply

Fantastic Guide. Helped me to change speaker and Smashed lcd.

John, · Reply

Be careful not to over-tighten the red screw in step 14, the head of the screw broke of with very little torque applied:( Apart from that minor mishap I worked though the guide in a little over 2 hours, big thanks for a fantastic guide!!!

Sandy Doull, · Reply

The Liberation Kit just stripped the screw. Now what.

nimpsy, · Reply

Had local iPhone repair shop remove the screw. Repair complete!

nimpsy,

I left the battery in and everything above the middle, using a pen knife to flex the logic board, I had plenty of room to else the old out and the new in.

Worked well and saved a lot of time.

Keith M, · Reply

After reviewing the steps I decided to follow this guy's advice and left the battery in.....one less item to possibly foul up. I don't know if it made it any faster (first time to open my phone, so nothing to compare it to) but I can say that my phone is charging for the first time in 6 months :D

Jennifer,

BEFORE YOU START:

1) This is doable but not easy, quick or without risk.

2) If this is your 1st time, the whole process can take >2 hours (half of it reading this fixit manual and notes, which I highly recommend!)

3) I highly recommend placing a large, thin clean white cloth on the table. This prevents screws from rolling around and you will clearly see anything falling out.

4) If you have them, use tight surgical (latex) gloves. This prevents you from greasing up contacts.

5) Have e.g. a big old egg box ready, so you can place the screws in order (and maybe write step/screw size on the side).

6) I bought my display from "Generic" on Amazon ($20.36). Screen works fine and tools were ok but not great (screw drivers do not withstand force needed to unscrew some).

7) I had my own 2mm Phillips screw driver and a 2.4mm flat (for the big screws).

8) Have a nice cold beer by your side! Good luck!

superedu111, · Reply

how can i take out the screw if it is stripped

Manny Chaidez, · Reply

with a small driller, but I guess it is very difficult. Never attempted that myself on an iPhone.

lantzero,

There is no screw in Step 2?

Is the screw stripped or the head stripped?

I have used superglue on the screwdriver to remove a stripped screw, it would turn but not come out, with superglue I could turn and pull the screw out. May also work on a stripped head.

Trevor,

If you are careful, use a Dremel tool and a micro drill bit (sold where Dremel tools are purchased) to drill it out. Last resort kind of thing, good luck.

Jack, · Reply

On my phone at least, there is a small gold and black part held down under the top screw. It goes black side up with the pressure contact touching the back of the phone when the cover is in place. Keep an eye out for correct orientation as you dismantle.

James Molyneux, · Reply

I also had a small black and gold connector held down by the top screw on this step.

Kevin Keenan, · Reply

I was missing the lower screw in this step. Reinstalling the other screw was difficult. Screw either stripped or (I think) screwdriver 00 is not right for removing this/ifixit screwdriver sucks.

maxrobins, · Reply

While the text refers to the pressure contact, the pictures do not show it clearly. The closet one that does has the yellow circle covering much of it. I was not sure if it was under or on top of the cover when re-installing. It's under.

gregsrow, · Reply

This step needs a few more caveats.

The bottom screw on my phone was locked with some thread adhesive, and required more force to loosen it than I expected.

Even after removing the screws, the battery connector was rather firmly seated, and required a fair bit of persistent gentle prying with the opening tool before it came loose.

The ground clip came loose and nearly flew off while loosening the connector, so it would really help people if there were a warning on this step to watch out for the ground clip and make sure it doesn't bounce away.

threephi, · Reply

Despite putting a large amount of pressure on the screw I can't get the blades of the 00 to take. Has anyone tried with a 000 and does it work better?

abeardsa, · Reply

The 00 didn't work much for me but I had more success with a Phillips #0

DMcG,

I find the #00 doesn't work either. I use the #000 and it works better for me.

Keith,

The battery connector is attached to the battery. You're not going to completely lift it out and remove it. It pulls out from the socket you can see in step 5 picture 3. The pressure contact (little black and gold thing) will probably just slide out from under the connector. Not a problem.

DMcG, · Reply

Which screwdriver works best then. I got the #00 philips from ifixit. I agree - it strips the screw and does not work. I don't recommend it.

I am now trying to buy another screwdriver - but which one. #0 or #000. Anyone done this. Please help!

andrepoon, · Reply

I lost the screws securing the battery connector to the logic board, what happens when I turn on my iphone without securing screws, as shown in step 4, please solution. thank you

Afriyadi, · Reply

The iFixit screwdriver that is recommended and provided will strip the screws here. HOLD OFF. I bought a ph000 screwdriver off the internet. Worked fine. Don't be tempted to proceed with the ph00 from iFixit. IT WILL STRIP!!

andrepoon, · Reply

I completed this repair without removing the battery. I think the guide should be edited to note that battery removal is not necessary.

M C, · Reply

I completed this successfully, but this step gave me the most trouble. The pressure contact is really difficult to reseat. So much so that it should probably be called out more clearly in it's own step.

Greg Fulco, · Reply

If your pressure contact pops out you might find the video at http://www.hightechdad.com/2013/05/07/ho... helpful

Martin Cleaver, · Reply

When reinstalling the position of pressure contact must be explained better! It took me about 5 min to understand how it fit!

Jorge, · Reply

If I did accidentally remove the pressure contact point from the logic board...what do I do?

Samuel Z, · Reply

I also did this. Not sure what its for? My phone appears to be fine now without it.

Ian Booth,

This picture needs to be greatly enlarged! The pressure plate sits directly underneath the battery connector, but cannot be seen here. It is also flat but about half the size of the battery connector, so you won't know you've ripped it up until you have! Picture two slices of bread but not the same size, stuck together.

S Byers, · Reply

What if you pop off that pressure contact point?? What is its function? Is it impossible to re-attach?

Ian Booth, · Reply

No idea what exactly this step means. I just pulled the battery connector without trying to move the pressure contact. Installed new battery, plugged in connector and aligned the pressure contact slightly for the screw to fit.

Got a big scare as the phone would not connect to the cell network at first boot, only WiFi. Shut it off and when it rebooted it seemed to work. WIll probably know in a day or so if everything works fine or if there are interference issues, etc.

andries, · Reply

I also accidentally removed the pressure contact. I put it back in place as best I could during reassembly and so far haven't ran into any problems.

Maynard Stevens, · Reply

The black & copper contact piece is missing from my iPhone. Does that explain why my phone won't restore and keeps re-booting? I have tried every kind of restore with no luck. Any ideas?

ozarkana, · Reply

After reassembling the iPhone I the GSM connection wasn't working. After cleaning all parts with isopropyl alcohol it still didn't work. What solved my problem was to turn on WiFi and then synchronizing the date and time which was set to 1970-01-01. After a reboot everything worked just fine. :)

Florian, · Reply

The black ground contact needs still more "flagging." This is a simple metal strip that is attached ONLY by the 1.5mm (upper) screw. It will help if you look at it before you remove the upper screw. Notice the gold contact arm and point. That contact point must be in a plane above every other surface inside the device when you replace the battery connector, because it makes a ground contact with the metallic inner surface of the device back plate.

When I replaced it, I used the Pentalobe driver to line up battery connector and ground contact with the screw socket post. I then attached the 1.7mm (lower) screw loosely, removed the Pentalobe driver gently, and inserted the 1.5mm (upper) screw into the assembly. There is a tab on the ground contact that helps it align properly once pressure begins to applied. I completed driving the upper screw, pressing lightly with the spudger on the battery connector plate to make sure it was seated on the pressure contacts. Finally, I completed driving the lower screw.

Matt McCaffrey, · Reply

This is a hard step because the directions and pictures are not very clear. This might help:

1) Here you HAVE TO disconnect the battery connecter (the language is confusing).

2) This is easier than it looks, as you can simply lift the connector upwards from any angle (I rested my plastic tool on the antenna and gently lifted it up).

The photo suggests you have to pull the connector backwards (which would be hard), this is not true, it can be lifted up towards you (the pins go out backwards and upwards, you'll see).

Finally, don't confuse the "pressure contact" with the "pressure contact point". You remove the contact, the contact point (underneath) sits on the board. No need to worry about this.

superedu111, · Reply

This can be very tricky because sometimes theres just too many glue on the back of the battery, and eventually the battery will be deformed.

Carlos Lopes, · Reply

Yes, there did seem to be a lot of glue holding my battery in. At first I was afraid of breaking it, but after reading up on the subject I've learned that it is okay if the battery gets a little deformed. Due to the nature of the battery it will still work if slightly deformed.

djlogic26, · Reply

I found the plastic pull tab to be useless. Peeled pretty much the whole battery out from the left side. Used a probe to "break" a few strands of glue to help. Just watch the connector and ribbon cable in the lower left corner as you pry up so you don't crimp them or damage them.

gregsrow, · Reply

DO NOT remove the battery unless absolutely necessary. If the battery is removed from the phone, DO NOT reuse it, ifixit does not seem to understand the importance of safely handling the battery

Tom Chai, · Reply

Tom you have never been so wrong. Removing the battery is the FIRST step ANYONE should do before repairing or attempting repairs on their phone. The iPhone has many different grounding points in the phone and having electrical current running to it poses a massive risk, especially with ESD (ElectroStatic Discharge). People, PLEASE make sure you remove your phone's battery FIRST before doing any repairs. Use a plastic, not metal, spudger, after unhooking the battery from the logic board, place the spudger along the right side of the battery NOT under the volume buttons, about an inch and a half lower (two roughly if a sim card is present) and start prying it up using the frame as the fulcrum, as you start to lift the battery from the adhesive make sure you slide the spudger farther under to get even contact so you do not damage the battery.

Prestige Computer Solutions,

Try a used plastic credit/gift card to apply gentle pressure to lift the battery out of the phone, the short edge of the card fits within the gap on the logic board side between the battery and video cables. You can also use it on the opposite side if there is room between the battery and iPhone frame. This has worked on all of the 4 and 4s models I've replaced screens on.

I offer an alternative image if interested.

Wallace Karraker, · Reply

Hello! My clients iphone 4s:n battery connector broke, when i tried accidentally take the battery out with a plastic tool from the wrong side.

Connector detached completely, so that the two middle ironcensors came with it and was stuck to the connector. When i screw the whole connector back to phone, it works with battery power, but the batterys downloading doesnt work. Are these two middle censors that are stuck in the connector exactly the ones that should be charging the battery? Do you know how i can fix this? I have already bought electrical conductor glue, but should the parts be cleaned somehow first? And how can i fix it, when the center metal sensors on the system board is also attached to the battery?

How can i clean out thiskind of part with windex? I have purchased almost all of the possible tools from iFixit and the electrical conductor glue i bought somewhere else. (http://www.ebay.com/itm/300915727408?ssP...)

SebastianK, · Reply

Removing the battery wasn't necessary. I attempted the removal but decided not to in the end. It didn't get in the way at all.

BigFatCat, · Reply

i also skipped the battery removal step. the battery didn't get in the way, but it did make it difficult to see if the wifi grounding fingers (step 14) were underneath the case lip. everything worked in the end though so i don't think removing the battery is a strict requirement.

rippergirl, · Reply

How can you not remove the battery in a battery replacement fix? Step 14, there are only 7 steps. Me thinks these comments are getting mixed up between different fixes!

bluezzer,

I did not remove the battery to do a Speaker replacement and had no issues with getting the Speaker out/in. So, steps 4 and 5 are required but not step 6.

rcrodriguez2, · Reply

The plastic tab is not attached to the battery. I just pried from the right and slid tools under until I broke all the adhesive.

DMcG, · Reply

I found it easier to start by pulling the plastic lip to loosen the battery, then, if needed, use the plastic tool to pry from the side.

superedu111, · Reply

Be VERY careful NOT to pull off the part of the connector that is on the logic board! Mine now has only contact but no solder until I can get a small enough soldering iron and a less shaky pair of hands!

Rob Hendricks, · Reply

I lost the 1.5mm and 1.7mm screws when replacing my 4s battery. Is there a place that sells just these two screws? I bought a 4s screw kit from Zeeton.com but figuring out which screw out the of 39 screws were the the 1.5mm and 1.7mm was impossible.

admin, · Reply

Buy a cheap pair of digital callipers ($20 -$30) and it will be clear. You can then use them to measure all kinds of things instead of squinting with a ruler.

bluezzer,

I bent the wire of the silent button on right top of the battery. Now the silent botton don't work. The wire on the bent is half-cut. BE CAREFUL when you put the new battery inside!

orzo, · Reply

Was having a hard time getting the screws back into the battery connector. Read another tip online that helped - pushed the end of my phillips screwdriver into some soft candle wax which gave it just enough stickyness to have the screw stay attached to the screwdriver while I was moving it toward the hole. Thought I'd pass that along.

bill, · Reply

I did as wazzamagu did (and stated above), "My Pentalobe tool was slightly magnetized so I used that to bring the screws in for tightening with the Philips screwdriver." That made replacing the screws fairly easy. Thanks for all the advice on this page. It was not hard at all. Go slow and carefully, everything is smaller in there than I expected. The "searching" thing came up as it seems for most people, but just took a reboot and all is fine.

amorteguy, · Reply

TO ALL WITH NETWORK PROBLEMS!

I had the same issue with "searching network". After resetting the network settings in settings it did work perfectly!

Klemt, · Reply

Instructions were good and everything works fine after replacement. Needed to use a tweezer on the pressure contact on the top screw of the battery. Thanks

jeff, · Reply

Are the screw sizes switche up by any chance? A 4S i have here has the left hole bigger and one of the screws didn't want to go into the right hole when it went nicely into the left one.

primozresman, · Reply

Fabulous tutorial! Many thanks! i have now a working iPhone back after display crash and glass brake!

In Step 8 I think the colors of the screws are inverted. The larger screw is at the left (near the sideboard) and the smaller is in the middle, near the battery (iPhone 4S).

Markus Gschwind, · Reply

Sometimes found stuck to the inside of the back cover.

Jeremy Jones, · Reply

Don't do it!!! you can skip that, it will stay and its more of a pain to remove it.

Nic Harper, · Reply

I was not able to really screw any of these screws back in successfully using Ifixit's screwdriver. I did the best that I could and reattached and replacement camera is functional AOK.

Not sure if it is because has been repaired before -- front screen replacement -- or if screws just fragile and screwdriver sucks.

Plan to see if can get replacement screws for inside the device.

maxrobins, · Reply

On reassembly, note that the metal lip below the (red) 2.7mm screw and to the right of the (green) 1.2mm screw goes between the ribbon cable and the main logic board, as can be seen in the picture for Step 12. If you don't get this right, the 2.7mm screw is difficult and, worse, there's a risk the edge of the lip will tear the ribbon cable.

David Bruce, · Reply

If you just very slightly twist this plate clockwise as you are lifting it out, it will help as there is a little hooked piece at the lower edge on the very far right. You have to be careful not to turn it too much though because this hooked piece is right beside a ribbon that could be damaged.

Trisch, · Reply

Im pretty sure that when you reinsert the cam the grounding clip has go to between metal sticker and the cam body, or the camra wont be grounded

Michael Rygaard, · Reply

I have an Iphone 4 but the inerds look more like this 4S than the 4, except I do not have a SIM card port. What's up?

Dave, · Reply

Probably a CDMA (Verizon) iPhone 4.

Pepper,

Is there a reason for waiting until step 18 to remove the sim card and its holder? I can do it right before I start without much force, is this not better?

jmaelzer, · Reply

I agree that the SIM card should be removed before you even start. After I completed this repair (waiting until this step to remove the SIM), the SIM card and holders won't go flush with the side of the phone anymore. The phone still works and everything else is fine, it's just annoying that I have a SIM holder sticking out about 1mm. I'm not certain this step caused this, but I'm just letting folks know that I agree with jmaelzer.

Song, · Reply

for the life of me I can NOT get this sim card and holder out!

Lori, · Reply

To be honest, it's really hard to remove SIM card without a correct tool.

Beck Sisyphus, · Reply

You have to PUSH the paperclip IN, then the tray pops OUT.

Floris Jansen, · Reply

There is an additional cable that you have to disconnect that's under the headphone jack cable. You have to do this before you try to remove the logic board. Otherwise, you'll rip that cable.. and I just freaking did.

Dennis, · Reply

The digitizer cable won't reach! I've already ripped it off once. which disconnect are you talking about?

kct16k,

I just ripped off the power cable ... i can live without the power button though!

Oreste Attanasio, · Reply

(be careful but gently forceful; the part doesn't come out without effort)

Carol Wade, · Reply

Great Guide and thanks. Now...what if i snapped the wifi antenna cable together with its male connector from the board? Like tearing it apart ? Can this be replaced by any chance? Thanks!

spyrosandreou, · Reply

Dimension given are Length of screw. I think it meant to say 2.6mm screw.

Jon, · Reply

Note that there is a rubber insulator that is loosely attached to the PBC that can be seen in the upper right corner of the red outline near the tag with Q5M on it. It falls off after the logic board is removed and should be replaced before reassembly.

ghodges, · Reply

So, my 2.6 Philips screw near the power cable just spins and spins. It happened the first time, so I know I didn't strip it. Any ideas?

thebacks, · Reply

So, I couldn't gind the tape and instead of digging around. I did what no one should do. I twisted and pulled. So now the screw that holds the upper left corner on broke that part of the logic board off. Everything else went back great....Phone won't turn on. Am I screwed here?

cdays01, · Reply

After I had lifted the logic board and moved around a little a small rubber piece fell off. Approx. 1 cm long and 2 mm wide. I'm guessing it's for some sort of isolation between the board and the chassis. Where should it go when I reassemble the phone?

The piece I'm referring to can be seen on the table in the upper right corner in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVQtgD89e...

Simon Fransson, · Reply

It sits between the logic board top-edge and the two ribbon leads from the screen. Its purpose is to stop the PCB cutting in to the FPC leads over time due to vibrations. If you require I can send a photo.

Paul L Daniels,

if I LOSE it, what will happen?

Actually, i DID lose it.

XuKaimeng, · Reply

Apparently it had uncovered my iPhone before, because when I did not find this piece uncapped here. I need to know which function is on the iPhone and if it is very important. How could I get?

Raul Tejada, · Reply

Hi, I had the phone apart to replace the wifi chip.

Has anyone found a source for the two nano sized SMD resistors, because this also causes "no wifi" syndrome due to them being important for the I2C lines.

thanks!!! -A email testing_h "at " yahoo.com

Andre De Guerin, · Reply

I think this is one of the parts I didn't put back in... Does it affect anything?

Also, Took apart my iPhone 4S to fix the screen and battery... Now the camera light doesn't turn on and I'm left with two pieces. Help!

Here are the parts: http://imgur.com/DsYtdlR

Nicole, · Reply

Left part: See step 5 - "Take notice of the small black ground clip on the upper screw of the battery connector".

Right part: See step 25 - "Be sure not to lose the small grounding finger for the rear facing camera near the power button".

Simon Fransson,

This is really hard to get out. I broke 2 plastic spudgers (cheap/free) trying this

david, · Reply

it might be an idea to mention that the retainer has three tiny little clips that point outwards from the camera and while taking it off is hard, putting it back on is even harder

david, · Reply

Step 26 cause me great pain as well. I couldn't get it loose with the plastic spudgers. I had to break out a tiny metal screwdriver. I was so paranoid that I was going to break the part or the clip. The trick is to get under the clip's "fingers" that fasten it on the sides. The issue is that even my small my plastic spudger was too big to fit in the available space. Ultimately I got it to work with a micro flathead screwdriver, but it wasn't without serious concern.

Song, · Reply

Using a micro flathead screwdriver did the trick. I found that prying from the top right corner worked best.

Dan, · Reply

Yes, this is hard. It would be a lot easier if the guide had a picture of the retainer clip. I was successful with a spludger by lifting it on the upper left hand corner. Once you have it off, have a good look at it before putting it back on. Remember that it clips to the outside of the camera housing.

olafgoy, · Reply

The clip has a hole and a groove. This is good enough to grab it with some pin tweezers from the top when replacing it.

olafgoy, · Reply

DO NOT DO THIS,

it is unnecessary to remove this plate or the front camera. its very difficult to remove and very difficult to replace. totally unnecessary step. just be careful moving the flex cables around, that's the only thing that is in the way, the camera does not hinder the power/sensor cable.

Andrew, · Reply

fyi my comment is based off replacing the power cable not the front camera, apparently the guides are just copied off one another. again, this is one of the hardest things ive done on an iPhone. if you are fixing the power cable, DO NOT pull out the front camera, NOT NEEDED and VERY HARD. im currently still trying to re-install the cover plate.

Andrew,

I totally agree with Andrew, when changing the power and sensor cable, do not do this step. It is absolutely unnecessary and only increases the pain when reassembling your phone. That step should not be in the guide for the power cable replacement.

corgold, · Reply

I agree with Andrew, this step is not needed.

Niels, · Reply

I have no idea why this step is needed. I skipped over it and was successful at taking it apart

brewgurru, · Reply

This is the most dangerous step of all !!! You have to be VERY careful with the digitizer and screen ribbon cables when you bend it back to unscrew lock button. It is best to partially remove the screen so that you can get the cables out of the way (you've already disassembled most of the phone anyway, a little more won't hurt). The first time that I did this repair, I ended up damaging the cable and my screen was useless. Many people that I have talked to suggest the same thing!

Felipe Da Cruz, · Reply

This exact thing happened to me. Be very careful as a cheaper power/sensor cable repair can quickly turn into a more expensive screen replacement as well.

umagon1337,

Yea, this went wrong in my attempted repair last night. It would be really great if step 28 included a warning here, or insert a step to remove the screen so those ribbon cables are safely out of the way!

I can't tell you how disappointing it is to find the cause of my failed repair in hidden comments 8^(

bdv, · Reply

I probably did the same, but I won't see it, because the liberation kit stripped the screw in the reassembly... and after that I realized I did something wrong in the previews step. So for me ifixit it became ifuckit. Very very mad. -.-

Tommaso, · Reply

Another solution for this step is to carefully push the digitizer and screen ribbon cables down (into the back of the front screen) instead of bending them back. If you do this carefully, you can minimize how much the cables bend and still have enough clearance to angle a screwdriver in from the top to remove the rightmost screw.

This worked for me without damaging the cables. I did not have to remove the front screen either.

Michael Huynh, · Reply

Also, if your "power button is stuck", you may not have to replace the whole power cable. After you unscrew the power button bracket, you should see a small black dot in the center of the gold colored area (where the button makes contact). Usually, stuck power buttons mean that either this black dot has worn away or has been shifted/misaligned. If the black dot is misaligned, put it back in the center and test if this has solved the issue. If the black dot does not exist, find/cut a small piece of rubber and carefully glue it to the center of the gold area. I cut a small piece of rubber from a thin o-ring and then used a dab of superglue to attach the rubber. Another commenter used nailpolish instead of rubber to create enough height to contact the power button. After all of this, screw the power bracket back on and test the power button. If the power button does not click, it may be that you screwed the bracket on too tightly such that the button is always depressed. Loosen the bracket screws.

Michael Huynh, · Reply

I guess this is where I lost the screen. In any event... the power button now works, and I have sound, but no picture. I can't even punch in my PIN to reformat the phone and give it away.

steve, · Reply

Maybe it's just me, but I had a hard time getting the earpiece out as it was wrapped in the ribbon cable and also had adhesive on it. Folks should be super careful here. Ultimately I torn the cable, but since I was replacing it anyway, it was ok. It really had me worried for a bit.

Song, · Reply

how are you supposed to stick the new wiring to the bits ?

This isnt worth doing.. Run the risk of your light sensor not working, and the lock button still not working.

12345, · Reply

i haven't done it yet but im looking at a replacement part and mine has double sided tape already affixed to the flex cable to secure it.

Im doing this job for a friend as trade for free haircuts lol

Andrew,

Waste of time.. I did this to fix my lock button. all it did was make my light sensor not work. lock button still doesnt work.

piece of !@#$

12345, · Reply

I lost the clip.. now what do I do?

Helen, · Reply

I found a bit tricky to refasten the little clip. I found it easier to fasten it right-side-first.

Niels, · Reply

Go ahead and order a new speaker - its nearly impossible not to break the foam

nweeks, · Reply

The foam can be replaced by similar double side tape.

davidsotl,

Tools plus parts plus shipping (FedEx) costs me about $100. Probably would cost about the same to have some do it for me, but what's the fun in that! The small magnetic mat is a must have, so handy.

davidsotl, · Reply

Agree with "nweeks" on it being impossible not to break the foam. However, I reinstalled without the foam. Since the earpiece is wrapped in the ribbon cable and it's also very securely contained in the recess, I can't see the foam adding a ton of value. My phone worked fine after I reused the earpiece without any new foam.

Song, · Reply

Its really easy to remove the foam and tape intact and re-use. grab an exacto blade and slice in between the flex cable and foam, once you have the edge started it will sparate pretty easily. dont worry about damaging the cable, you're replacing that anyway.

Andrew, · Reply

Does it matter which orientation the earpiece gets reattached to the cable?

Robert Lindsley, · Reply

View Statistics:

Today: 131

This Week: 427

This Month: 3,832

All Time: 96,444