iPhone 4 Verizon Rear Camera Replacement

Removing your iPhone 4 Verizon's 5 MP rear camera.

Use this guide to remove the iPhone's primary rear camera.

Sections
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Edit Step 1 Rear Panel  ¶ 

  • Before disassembling your iPhone, be sure it is powered off.

  • Your phone's rear cover may have two #000 Phillips screws or Apple's 5-Point "Pentalobe" screws. Check which screws you have, and ensure you also have the correct screwdriver in order to remove them.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe or Phillips #000 screws next to the dock connector.

  • During reassembly, we recommend you replace the 5-point screws with equivalent Phillips screws. Our Liberation Kit provides the tools and screws needed to replace the Pentalobe screws with Phillips screws.

  • The 5-Point Screwdriver should only be used once, as it has the potential to strip the screws.

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Push the rear panel toward the top edge of the iPhone.

  • The panel will move about 2 mm.

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Pinch the rear panel with your fingers, and lift it away from the iPhone. Alternatively, use a Small Suction Cup .

  • Be careful not to damage the plastic clips attached to the rear panel.

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Edit Step 4 Battery  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 1.5 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board (if present).

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break it entirely.

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Pull up on the exposed clear plastic tab to peel the battery off the adhesive securing it to the iPhone.

  • Depending on the strength of the adhesive holding the battery down, the adhesive's strength may exceed the strength of the plastic pull-tab. If so, you'll need to work the plastic spudger around the battery to release the adhesive. Too much pressure exerted at any one point could short the battery internally rendering it useless.

  • Remove the battery.

  • Do not remove the plastic tab from the iPhone.

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Edit Step 7 Rear Camera  ¶ 

  • Remove the following five screws:

    • Three 1.3 mm Phillips screws

    • One 1.5 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.4 mm Phillips screw

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Lift the cable cover from its edge nearest the top of the iPhone.

  • Pull the cable cover tabs out of their slots cut into the EMI shield on the logic board and remove it from the iPhone.

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the rear camera connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be careful not to break any components off the surrounding area on the logic board as you pry upwards.

  • Remove the rear camera from the iPhone.

  • Be careful not to scratch the back of the display assembly after the removal of the rear facing camera.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iPhone 4 Verizon device page.

Required Tools

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Plastic Opening Tools

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Recommended Tools

Universal Drive Adapter

$29.95 · 50+ In stock

iFixit Lock Pick Set

$29.95 · 50+ In stock

Inspection Scope

$39.95 · 50+ In stock

Frictionless Ratchet

$24.95 · 50+ In stock

Portable Anti-Static Mat

$34.95 · 42 In stock

Popular Device Products

iPhone 4 Replacement Battery

$19.95 · 22 In stock

iPhone 4 Home Button Assembly

$14.95 · 50+ In stock

iPhone 4/4S Liberation Kit

$9.95 · 50+ In stock

Comments Comments are onturn off

This guide also works for the AT&T iPhone4S. With a little care, the RF shield can be removed without taking the battery out, though you should still disconnect it. It only takes about 20 minutes from start to finish.

Chuck Sembroski, · Reply

you do not need to take the battery out as chuck said so you dont run the risk of braking the battery connector socket from the logic board

22therealala, · Reply

In my situation, the #00 screwdriver had a hard time trying to get the screws off. Using a glasses screwdriver kit may be a better alternative if the screws are resistant to the #00 screwdriver.

tjaeger, · Reply

Note that the pull tab is not actually attached to the battery. It is attached to the iPhone chassis, and is only used to separate the battery from the adhesive. (Don't expect it to come out with the battery!)

Also, the adhesive is VERY strong. I had to use my plastic opening tool to assist in prying the battery loose. This is probably the most nerve-wracking part of the job.

Matt Strange, · Reply

It is much easier to slightly WARM the battery with a HAIRDRYER not a HEAT GUN to soften the adhesive. DO NOT GET BATTERY HOT AND DO NOT USE HEAT GUN

Joe,

I just did this today. Everything was as scripted. Mine had lots of adhesive and had to use plastic spudger to go around battery to loosen up. Do not use plastic tab until you can see under battery a little bit. Great instructions. Took less than 10 minutes.

kamullins4135,

The adhesive is very strong and I was initially worried about damaging the phone by prying so much. There are a couple of places below the volume switch where you can pry between the metal of the case and the battery. If you lift the battery just a little, wiggle the pry bar further in and then start moving down the case. Don't worry about bending the battery, its dead anyway.

Do not pry on the left side (circuit board side) and do not use the pull tab until the adhesive is broken loose.

martin474, · Reply

I tried this at first with a plastic pry tool, and the adhesive was so strong that I broke the tool. I then used a large screwdriver and applied pressure very slowly along various places on the outer side of the battery. That eventually did the trick.

alsmith1928, · Reply

Careful here...On my phone, the little mounting screw boss (the part the screw threads into) of the top red-circled screw came unglued/welded from the underlying board, meaning the screw will no longer be able to be screwed back in.

usnmustanger, · Reply

The three 1.3 mm screws are very difficult to distinguish from the 1.5 mm screw. I spent a long time with a magnifying glass trying to tell them apart. For the other steps of the repair, I kept the screws in a tray compartment along with the piece that they connected, but for this step I recommend keeping each of the different types of screws separate.

alsmith1928, · Reply

Better to delay removing the camera and its cable until the Display and Digitizer cables are removed as there is an arm on the right side of the camera that slips under the other cables.

ed50buffalo, · Reply

I agree with ed -- move the camera removal step until after Step 16, after the digitizer and display cables have been removed, as there is a tab/arm on the camera's cable that should go under these two cables during reassembly.

Chris Kovach,

I found it quite easy to remove the camera at this step. Just simply move the camera up and slip it to the left in order for the arm/tab to come out.

Kent, · Reply

When putting the camera back in, make sure the tab on the right goes under the display and digitizer cables.

Calion, · Reply

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