iPhone 4 Verizon Power Button Cable Replacement

Replace a broken power button cable on your Verizon iPhone 4.

Use this guide to replace the electronic portion of power button and the attached ambient light/proximity sensors.

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Edit Step 1 Rear Panel  ¶ 

  • Before disassembling your iPhone, be sure it is powered off.

  • Your phone's rear cover may have two #000 Phillips screws or Apple's 5-Point "Pentalobe" screws. Check which screws you have, and ensure you also have the correct screwdriver in order to remove them.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe or Phillips #000 screws next to the dock connector.

  • During reassembly, we recommend you replace the 5-point screws with equivalent Phillips screws. Our Liberation Kit provides the tools and screws needed to replace the Pentalobe screws with Phillips screws.

  • The 5-Point Screwdriver should only be used once, as it has the potential to strip the screws.

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Push the rear panel toward the top edge of the iPhone.

  • The panel will move about 2 mm.

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Pinch the rear panel with your fingers, and lift it away from the iPhone. Alternatively, use a Small Suction Cup .

  • Be careful not to damage the plastic clips attached to the rear panel.

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Edit Step 4 Battery  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 1.5 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board (if present).

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break it entirely.

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Pull up on the exposed clear plastic tab to peel the battery off the adhesive securing it to the iPhone.

  • Depending on the strength of the adhesive holding the battery down, the adhesive's strength may exceed the strength of the plastic pull-tab. If so, you'll need to work the plastic spudger around the battery to release the adhesive. Too much pressure exerted at any one point could short the battery internally rendering it useless.

  • Remove the battery.

  • Do not remove the plastic tab from the iPhone.

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Edit Step 7 Dock Connector Cable  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 1.8 mm Phillips screws securing the dock connector cable to the logic board.

  • Remove the thin metal dock connector cable cover.

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the dock cable up from its socket on the logic board.

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Peel the dock connector cable off the adhesive securing it to the logic board and the side of the speaker enclosure.

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Remove the 1.6 mm Phillips screw securing the pressure contact to the logic board near the vibrator.

  • Remove the pressure contact.

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the cellular antenna cable up from its socket on the logic board.

  • De-route the cellular antenna cable out from under the metal fingers attached to the logic board.

  • When reconnecting the antenna wire be VERY certain that the round connector at the end of the wire is centered on its mating half on the motherboard before applying pressure. Failure to do so will likely destroy both halves of the connector.

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Edit Step 12 Rear Camera  ¶ 

  • Remove the following five screws:

    • Three 1.3 mm Phillips screws

    • One 1.5 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.4 mm Phillips screw

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Lift the cable cover from its edge nearest the top of the iPhone.

  • Pull the cable cover tabs out of their slots cut into the EMI shield on the logic board and remove it from the iPhone.

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the rear camera connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be careful not to break any components off the surrounding area on the logic board as you pry upwards.

  • Remove the rear camera from the iPhone.

  • Be careful not to scratch the back of the display assembly after the removal of the rear facing camera.

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Edit Step 15 Logic Board  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the five cables near the top of the logic board in the following order:

    • Headphone jack/volume button cable

    • Power button cable

    • Front facing camera cable

    • Digitizer cable

    • Display data cable

  • To disconnect the cables, use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently lift their connectors up and out of the sockets on the logic board.

  • Be careful not to break any of the small and delicate surface mount components as you disconnect the cables.

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Remove the 1.5 mm Phillips #00 screw near the headphone jack.

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Lift the small grounding clip up off the logic board and remove it from the iPhone.

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to disconnect the Wi-Fi antenna cable connector from the logic board.

  • When reconnecting the wifi ribbon connector to the mother board be VERY certain that the round connector at the end of the ribbon cable is centered on its mating half on the motherboard before applying pressure. Failure to do so will likely destroy both halves of the connection.

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • If present, remove the piece of tape covering a Phillips screw near the power button.

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Remove the 2.5 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the logic board near the power button.

  • Use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the 4.8 mm standoff screw near the headphone jack.

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Remove the 3.4 mm Phillips screw near the vibrator motor.

  • Use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the two 3.6 mm standoffs along the side of the logic board nearest the battery opening.

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Carefully lift the logic board from the end closest to the speaker enclosure and slide it away from the top edge of the iPhone.

  • Remove the logic board.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the logic board (not the mating halves of connectors) with a de-greaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause grounding issues.

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Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Be sure not to lose the small grounding finger for the rear facing camera near the power button.

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Edit Step 24 Earpiece Speaker  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to peel the earpiece speaker off the foam adhesive securing it to the iPhone.

  • If you wish to reuse the earpiece speaker, try not to tear the foam adhesive that secures it to the iPhone's case.

  • Remove the earpiece speaker.

  • The speaker may be glued to a ribbon cable. Use a second opening tool to hold the cable down.

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Edit Step 25 Power Button Cable  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 2.0 mm Phillips screws securing the power button bracket to the outer case.

  • Slightly pull the power button cable bracket away from the outer case.

  • If the power button happens to accidentally fall out, take note of the correct orientation. The metal loop should be facing downwards and the outward edges should be on top.

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Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently pry up the bracket above the void where the earpiece speaker was installed.

  • This bracket is captive to the outer case. It is not necessary to try to remove it.

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Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently peel up the power button cable from the outer case.

  • Remove the power button cable from the iPhone.

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Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to remove the metal power button bracket from the power button switch.

  • Transfer this bracket to your new power button cable.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iPhone 4 Verizon device page.

Required Tools

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Flathead 3/32" or 2.5 mm Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Plastic Opening Tools

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

This one was a bit difficult with the routing of the cable, but overall easy for a first timer.

ltspenny, · Reply

My power button quit working. I bought the cable assembly and replaced it per these instructions. Everything seemed to work at first but later I noticed my phone kept trying to shut itself off. Any ideas what is causing this? It only seems to occur after I use the power button. It is almost as if it is getting stuck down.

rick, · Reply

you do not need to take the battery out as chuck said so you dont run the risk of braking the battery connector socket from the logic board

22therealala, · Reply

In my situation, the #00 screwdriver had a hard time trying to get the screws off. Using a glasses screwdriver kit may be a better alternative if the screws are resistant to the #00 screwdriver.

tjaeger, · Reply

Note that the pull tab is not actually attached to the battery. It is attached to the iPhone chassis, and is only used to separate the battery from the adhesive. (Don't expect it to come out with the battery!)

Also, the adhesive is VERY strong. I had to use my plastic opening tool to assist in prying the battery loose. This is probably the most nerve-wracking part of the job.

Matt Strange, · Reply

It is much easier to slightly WARM the battery with a HAIRDRYER not a HEAT GUN to soften the adhesive. DO NOT GET BATTERY HOT AND DO NOT USE HEAT GUN


I just did this today. Everything was as scripted. Mine had lots of adhesive and had to use plastic spudger to go around battery to loosen up. Do not use plastic tab until you can see under battery a little bit. Great instructions. Took less than 10 minutes.


The adhesive is very strong and I was initially worried about damaging the phone by prying so much. There are a couple of places below the volume switch where you can pry between the metal of the case and the battery. If you lift the battery just a little, wiggle the pry bar further in and then start moving down the case. Don't worry about bending the battery, its dead anyway.

Do not pry on the left side (circuit board side) and do not use the pull tab until the adhesive is broken loose.

martin474, · Reply

I tried this at first with a plastic pry tool, and the adhesive was so strong that I broke the tool. I then used a large screwdriver and applied pressure very slowly along various places on the outer side of the battery. That eventually did the trick.

alsmith1928, · Reply

Careful here...On my phone, the little mounting screw boss (the part the screw threads into) of the top red-circled screw came unglued/welded from the underlying board, meaning the screw will no longer be able to be screwed back in.

usnmustanger, · Reply

The three 1.3 mm screws are very difficult to distinguish from the 1.5 mm screw. I spent a long time with a magnifying glass trying to tell them apart. For the other steps of the repair, I kept the screws in a tray compartment along with the piece that they connected, but for this step I recommend keeping each of the different types of screws separate.

alsmith1928, · Reply

Better to delay removing the camera and its cable until the Display and Digitizer cables are removed as there is an arm on the right side of the camera that slips under the other cables.

ed50buffalo, · Reply

I agree with ed -- move the camera removal step until after Step 16, after the digitizer and display cables have been removed, as there is a tab/arm on the camera's cable that should go under these two cables during reassembly.

Chris Kovach,

I found it quite easy to remove the camera at this step. Just simply move the camera up and slip it to the left in order for the arm/tab to come out.

Kent, · Reply

When putting the camera back in, make sure the tab on the right goes under the display and digitizer cables.

Calion, · Reply

The Digitizer Cable on the new display seems to be too short. Trying to make it reach. It doesn't reach its place on the logic board. Going to disassemble and start over. (Step 15)

Any pointers?

chris, · Reply

What happened was there is a tab on the cable, and that didn't go all the way through the casing. I made this mistake about 3 times. It's not too short, just move the screen a little away from the casing, and pull the cable all the way through without ripping it.


The two verizon phones I've repaired so far both have a phillips screw that screws into the flathead screw that is shown here. The grounding clip is between the phillips and the flathead. So remove the phillips, and then the grounding clip, that will reveal the flathead screw.

boo, · Reply

take out screw on top of stand of first, then take of grounding plat, and then stand off.

Corey Berghorst, · Reply

This is correct.


Echoing the notes from 'boo' and Corey -- that's exactly what I saw too. Perhaps the guide should be updated?

Matt Strange, · Reply

This has been changed several times on the iphone 4 logic board manual, and the changes are always being reverted. There _IS_ a screw in step 16, but someone seems intent on not having it mentioned in the manual. Dunno why...

Mobile Rapid Response Unit, · Reply

Because it's mentioned in Step 20.


It may have been mentioned in step 20 at some point, but it isn't anymore. The phillips head screw that's mentioned in step 20 is the one holding the grounding finger to the rear-facing camera corner of the motherboard.

That said, my concerns about step 16 have since been rectified, so I suppose step 20 could've been fixed at the same time.

Mobile Rapid Response Unit,

The manual does need to be updated for the screw being inside the standoff screw.

Billy, · Reply

Some Phones such as mine (march2012) had a philips head screw here..

Anson, · Reply

one of the small prongs on the standoff near the headphone jack broke off, is this a big deal or should i not worry about it

Sam, · Reply

Don't worry about it, the stand-off just holds the wifi antenna in place


For me, aligning the connector when putting things back together was the most difficult part of this repair. Unlike reattachment of the radio antenna in step 11, it is very difficult to see whether the male/female are aligned properly before applying pressure. Unfortunately, I have no secret as to how to accomplish this, other than to say that my WiFi is working after the repair.

alsmith1928, · Reply

can someone tell me what that flap thing is thats right behind the other? also whats its use & how important it is. ( the one thats hidden behind the other)

Camarri, · Reply

Now is a good time to remove the gold grounding finger. I used the condiments cups from Wendy's (fast food restaurant) to hold my screws for each step. Hope this helps.

Kent, · Reply

When replacing the standoff screw closest to the dock connector, make sure it is tightened all the way down. The battery terminal screw fits in the standoff later, and if the standoff isn't tight (NOT TOO TIGHT!) then the battery will not be completely connected and your phone will power off unless tethered. This mimics a bad logic board symptom! Inspect this before replacing your logic board!

goodski, · Reply

The standoff screws are very difficult to get out unless you have a very tiny (jeweler's) flathead screwdriver, which I lacked. A pocketknife did work, however.

Calion, · Reply

When I was attempting to reinstall the logic board (step 21 in reverse), a small rubber bumper came loose from 'somewhere' on the board (I think). It isn't visible in any of the photos, so I really have no idea where it came from!

Matt Strange, · Reply

I don't see it in the pictures either, but I'm pretty sure there is a black bumper that rides on the 'top' of the logic board. I believe it reduces friction between the display/digitizer cables and the top of the logic board.

Ken McCann,

You can see this "bumper" in steps 16 and 20 (right above the yellow sticker in the pics), and it provides relief for the digitizer and display cables as they both come up and around the edge of the logic board. I put my bumper with its thicker side down towards the inside of the phone and it worked fine.

Chris Kovach,

This is correct, and if you look closely the rubber piece has a "thick" and "thin" side. The "thin" side should be facing "up" on logic board (towards back cover) while the "thick" is pointed "down" (towards screen)

Joe, · Reply

The rubber bumper has a groove in it, which rides a notch along the top edge of the logic board. Its purpose is to ease pressure between the top of the phone and the board. If you look at the top of the frame, there is a little horizontal ridge about 0.8cm (3/8") long which is just the right width of the rubber bumper.

For reference:




Bradley, · Reply

Your images show incorrect placement of the rubber spacer. Step 20 shows correct placement. It is just above the scan code sticker on the motherboard. That is where the ribbon cables roll over, so it makes sense.

I assume the thick side would be facing the rear of the phone, but can not be sure.?


Keil Miller,

I wouldn't use Windex. It's mostly water. Why would anyone put water on a connection? Use isopropyl alcohol and be certain that it's at least 95% alcohol.

Better yet use contact cleaner or the original Brakleen (in the RED can). You can find the Brakleen at any automotive store.

Tom Brandolini, · Reply

Hope someone can ease my uncertainty: does the grounding finger for the

rear-facing camera go on TOP of the motherboard OR between the motherboard and

the standoff???

Tom Brandolini, · Reply

Under. There is nothing to ground if it went over the pcb. Look on the backside.

Keil Miller,

I noticed something very strange when reattaching the cable. I tightened both of the screws in Step 25, and tried pressing the power button. It did not move. Then I slightly loosened the right screw in the picture (the one toward the center of the phone) and got a satisfying click when I pressed the power button. My initial tightening of the screw was snug, but not overly so - about the same torque as was required to release most of the other screws. So many people have problems with this button that there might be some sort of design flaw in the power button assembly, which partially manifests itself by very small tolerance on the tightness of this screw.

alsmith1928, · Reply

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