iPhone 4 Verizon Home Button Replacement

Replace a broken home button on your Verizon iPhone 4.

Use this guide to replace a broken home button.

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Edit Step 1 Rear Panel  ¶ 

  • Before disassembling your iPhone, be sure it is powered off.

  • Your phone's rear cover may have two #000 Phillips screws or Apple's 5-Point "Pentalobe" screws. Check which screws you have, and ensure you also have the correct screwdriver in order to remove them.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe or Phillips #000 screws next to the dock connector.

  • During reassembly, we recommend you replace the 5-point screws with equivalent Phillips screws. Our Liberation Kit provides the tools and screws needed to replace the Pentalobe screws with Phillips screws.

  • The 5-Point Screwdriver should only be used once, as it has the potential to strip the screws.

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Push the rear panel toward the top edge of the iPhone.

  • The panel will move about 2 mm.

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Pinch the rear panel with your fingers, and lift it away from the iPhone. Alternatively, use a Small Suction Cup .

  • Be careful not to damage the plastic clips attached to the rear panel.

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Edit Step 4 Battery  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 1.5 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board (if present).

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break it entirely.

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Pull up on the exposed clear plastic tab to peel the battery off the adhesive securing it to the iPhone.

  • Depending on the strength of the adhesive holding the battery down, the adhesive's strength may exceed the strength of the plastic pull-tab. If so, you'll need to work the plastic spudger around the battery to release the adhesive. Too much pressure exerted at any one point could short the battery internally rendering it useless.

  • Remove the battery.

  • Do not remove the plastic tab from the iPhone.

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Edit Step 7 Dock Connector Cable  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 1.8 mm Phillips screws securing the dock connector cable to the logic board.

  • Remove the thin metal dock connector cable cover.

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the dock cable up from its socket on the logic board.

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Peel the dock connector cable off the adhesive securing it to the logic board and the side of the speaker enclosure.

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Remove the 1.6 mm Phillips screw securing the pressure contact to the logic board near the vibrator.

  • Remove the pressure contact.

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the cellular antenna cable up from its socket on the logic board.

  • De-route the cellular antenna cable out from under the metal fingers attached to the logic board.

  • When reconnecting the antenna wire be VERY certain that the round connector at the end of the wire is centered on its mating half on the motherboard before applying pressure. Failure to do so will likely destroy both halves of the connector.

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Edit Step 12 Rear Camera  ¶ 

  • Remove the following five screws:

    • Three 1.3 mm Phillips screws

    • One 1.5 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.4 mm Phillips screw

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Lift the cable cover from its edge nearest the top of the iPhone.

  • Pull the cable cover tabs out of their slots cut into the EMI shield on the logic board and remove it from the iPhone.

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the rear camera connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be careful not to break any components off the surrounding area on the logic board as you pry upwards.

  • Remove the rear camera from the iPhone.

  • Be careful not to scratch the back of the display assembly after the removal of the rear facing camera.

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Edit Step 15 Logic Board  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the five cables near the top of the logic board in the following order:

    • Headphone jack/volume button cable

    • Power button cable

    • Front facing camera cable

    • Digitizer cable

    • Display data cable

  • To disconnect the cables, use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently lift their connectors up and out of the sockets on the logic board.

  • Be careful not to break any of the small and delicate surface mount components as you disconnect the cables.

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Remove the 1.5 mm Phillips #00 screw near the headphone jack.

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Lift the small grounding clip up off the logic board and remove it from the iPhone.

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to disconnect the Wi-Fi antenna cable connector from the logic board.

  • When reconnecting the wifi ribbon connector to the mother board be VERY certain that the round connector at the end of the ribbon cable is centered on its mating half on the motherboard before applying pressure. Failure to do so will likely destroy both halves of the connection.

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • If present, remove the piece of tape covering a Phillips screw near the power button.

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Remove the 2.5 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the logic board near the power button.

  • Use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the 4.8 mm standoff screw near the headphone jack.

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Remove the 3.4 mm Phillips screw near the vibrator motor.

  • Use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the two 3.6 mm standoffs along the side of the logic board nearest the battery opening.

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Carefully lift the logic board from the end closest to the speaker enclosure and slide it away from the top edge of the iPhone.

  • Remove the logic board.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the logic board (not the mating halves of connectors) with a de-greaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause grounding issues.

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Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Be sure not to lose the small grounding finger for the rear facing camera near the power button.

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Edit Step 24 Vibrator  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the vibrator off the adhesive securing it to the frame of the iPhone.

  • Remove the vibrator.

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Edit Step 25 Display Assembly  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 2.4 mm Phillips screws from the sides of the speaker enclosure assembly.

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Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Remove the small plastic bracket that was installed under the screw closest to the dock connector cable.

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Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • Remove the speaker enclosure assembly from the iPhone.

  • Before reinstalling the speaker enclosure assembly's screws, be sure the Wi-Fi grounding fingers are installed below the lip in the iPhone's metal case as seen in the second picture.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points between the grounding fingers of the Wi-Fi antenna and the case of the iPhone with a de-greaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.

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Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Remove the small pieces of black tape covering the display mounting tabs.

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Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • Remove the 1.6 mm Phillips screw securing the display assembly near the power button.

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Edit Step 30  ¶ 

  • Remove the 1.6 mm Phillips screw near the headphone jack.

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Edit Step 31  ¶ 

  • Remove the 1.6 mm Phillips screw near the lower microphone.

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Edit Step 32  ¶ 

  • Remove the 1.6 mm Phillips screw near the dock connector cable.

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Edit Step 33  ¶ 

  • Loosen the three large-headed Phillips screws along the volume button side of the iPhone about one half turn.

  • It is not necessary to completely remove these screws. When reinstalling the display assembly, be sure the washers are closest to the screw head (as seen in the second picture).

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Edit Step 34  ¶ 

  • Loosen the three large-headed Phillips screws along the other side of the iPhone about one half turn.

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Edit Step 35  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently pry up the display assembly around its perimeter.

  • Remove the display assembly from the iPhone.

  • There is a small plastic ring around the front-facing camera that may come away with the screen. Make sure to recover and reattach it to the camera before reassembly.

  • When reinstalling the display assembly, be sure the digitizer and display data cables are completely pulled through the slot cut into the outer case before pressing the display assembly down into the outer case. Failure to do so will cause the digitizer cable to not reach its socket on the logic board.

  • If you're replacing the display assembly, remember to take the metal mesh earpiece screen off the old display and put it on the new one. Most replacements do not include this mesh screen.

  • After reassembly, protect your new display from any scratches by installing a new screen protector.

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Edit Step 36 Home Button  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flip up the retaining flap on the home button ribbon cable.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged flap, not the socket itself.

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Edit Step 37  ¶ 

  • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the home button cable out of its socket.

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Edit Step 38  ¶ 

  • Carefully de-route the home button cable through its slot in the outer case and remove it from the iPhone.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iPhone 4 Verizon device page.

Required Tools

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Flathead 3/32" or 2.5 mm Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Tweezers

$6.95 · 50+ In stock

Plastic Opening Tools

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

How can a company that prides itself on simplicity and elegance make something so needlessly unserviceable? I don't mind the small screws, even if I wonder how many of them really need to be there... but the fragile cables, little black spacers, the pentalobe screws and the glue - oh the inhumanity of the glue! The only thing that makes me happy is, now that Tim Cook's decided that they're going to service these things in-store, the thought of Apple employees sending an earful of expletives up the management chain.

jwkc2, · Reply

you do not need to take the battery out as chuck said so you dont run the risk of braking the battery connector socket from the logic board

22therealala, · Reply

In my situation, the #00 screwdriver had a hard time trying to get the screws off. Using a glasses screwdriver kit may be a better alternative if the screws are resistant to the #00 screwdriver.

tjaeger, · Reply

Note that the pull tab is not actually attached to the battery. It is attached to the iPhone chassis, and is only used to separate the battery from the adhesive. (Don't expect it to come out with the battery!)

Also, the adhesive is VERY strong. I had to use my plastic opening tool to assist in prying the battery loose. This is probably the most nerve-wracking part of the job.

Matt Strange, · Reply

It is much easier to slightly WARM the battery with a HAIRDRYER not a HEAT GUN to soften the adhesive. DO NOT GET BATTERY HOT AND DO NOT USE HEAT GUN

Joe,

I just did this today. Everything was as scripted. Mine had lots of adhesive and had to use plastic spudger to go around battery to loosen up. Do not use plastic tab until you can see under battery a little bit. Great instructions. Took less than 10 minutes.

kamullins4135,

The adhesive is very strong and I was initially worried about damaging the phone by prying so much. There are a couple of places below the volume switch where you can pry between the metal of the case and the battery. If you lift the battery just a little, wiggle the pry bar further in and then start moving down the case. Don't worry about bending the battery, its dead anyway.

Do not pry on the left side (circuit board side) and do not use the pull tab until the adhesive is broken loose.

martin474, · Reply

I tried this at first with a plastic pry tool, and the adhesive was so strong that I broke the tool. I then used a large screwdriver and applied pressure very slowly along various places on the outer side of the battery. That eventually did the trick.

alsmith1928, · Reply

Careful here...On my phone, the little mounting screw boss (the part the screw threads into) of the top red-circled screw came unglued/welded from the underlying board, meaning the screw will no longer be able to be screwed back in.

usnmustanger, · Reply

The three 1.3 mm screws are very difficult to distinguish from the 1.5 mm screw. I spent a long time with a magnifying glass trying to tell them apart. For the other steps of the repair, I kept the screws in a tray compartment along with the piece that they connected, but for this step I recommend keeping each of the different types of screws separate.

alsmith1928, · Reply

Better to delay removing the camera and its cable until the Display and Digitizer cables are removed as there is an arm on the right side of the camera that slips under the other cables.

ed50buffalo, · Reply

I agree with ed -- move the camera removal step until after Step 16, after the digitizer and display cables have been removed, as there is a tab/arm on the camera's cable that should go under these two cables during reassembly.

Chris Kovach,

I found it quite easy to remove the camera at this step. Just simply move the camera up and slip it to the left in order for the arm/tab to come out.

Kent, · Reply

When putting the camera back in, make sure the tab on the right goes under the display and digitizer cables.

Calion, · Reply

The Digitizer Cable on the new display seems to be too short. Trying to make it reach. It doesn't reach its place on the logic board. Going to disassemble and start over. (Step 15)

Any pointers?

chris, · Reply

What happened was there is a tab on the cable, and that didn't go all the way through the casing. I made this mistake about 3 times. It's not too short, just move the screen a little away from the casing, and pull the cable all the way through without ripping it.

savage24x,

The two verizon phones I've repaired so far both have a phillips screw that screws into the flathead screw that is shown here. The grounding clip is between the phillips and the flathead. So remove the phillips, and then the grounding clip, that will reveal the flathead screw.

boo, · Reply

take out screw on top of stand of first, then take of grounding plat, and then stand off.

Corey Berghorst, · Reply

This is correct.

savage24x,

Echoing the notes from 'boo' and Corey -- that's exactly what I saw too. Perhaps the guide should be updated?

Matt Strange, · Reply

This has been changed several times on the iphone 4 logic board manual, and the changes are always being reverted. There _IS_ a screw in step 16, but someone seems intent on not having it mentioned in the manual. Dunno why...

Mobile Rapid Response Unit, · Reply

Because it's mentioned in Step 20.

usnmustanger,

It may have been mentioned in step 20 at some point, but it isn't anymore. The phillips head screw that's mentioned in step 20 is the one holding the grounding finger to the rear-facing camera corner of the motherboard.

That said, my concerns about step 16 have since been rectified, so I suppose step 20 could've been fixed at the same time.

Mobile Rapid Response Unit,

The manual does need to be updated for the screw being inside the standoff screw.

Billy, · Reply

Some Phones such as mine (march2012) had a philips head screw here..

Anson, · Reply

one of the small prongs on the standoff near the headphone jack broke off, is this a big deal or should i not worry about it

Sam, · Reply

Don't worry about it, the stand-off just holds the wifi antenna in place

Jake,

For me, aligning the connector when putting things back together was the most difficult part of this repair. Unlike reattachment of the radio antenna in step 11, it is very difficult to see whether the male/female are aligned properly before applying pressure. Unfortunately, I have no secret as to how to accomplish this, other than to say that my WiFi is working after the repair.

alsmith1928, · Reply

can someone tell me what that flap thing is thats right behind the other? also whats its use & how important it is. ( the one thats hidden behind the other)

Camarri, · Reply

Now is a good time to remove the gold grounding finger. I used the condiments cups from Wendy's (fast food restaurant) to hold my screws for each step. Hope this helps.

Kent, · Reply

When replacing the standoff screw closest to the dock connector, make sure it is tightened all the way down. The battery terminal screw fits in the standoff later, and if the standoff isn't tight (NOT TOO TIGHT!) then the battery will not be completely connected and your phone will power off unless tethered. This mimics a bad logic board symptom! Inspect this before replacing your logic board!

goodski, · Reply

The standoff screws are very difficult to get out unless you have a very tiny (jeweler's) flathead screwdriver, which I lacked. A pocketknife did work, however.

Calion, · Reply

When I was attempting to reinstall the logic board (step 21 in reverse), a small rubber bumper came loose from 'somewhere' on the board (I think). It isn't visible in any of the photos, so I really have no idea where it came from!

Matt Strange, · Reply

I don't see it in the pictures either, but I'm pretty sure there is a black bumper that rides on the 'top' of the logic board. I believe it reduces friction between the display/digitizer cables and the top of the logic board.

Ken McCann,

You can see this "bumper" in steps 16 and 20 (right above the yellow sticker in the pics), and it provides relief for the digitizer and display cables as they both come up and around the edge of the logic board. I put my bumper with its thicker side down towards the inside of the phone and it worked fine.

Chris Kovach,

This is correct, and if you look closely the rubber piece has a "thick" and "thin" side. The "thin" side should be facing "up" on logic board (towards back cover) while the "thick" is pointed "down" (towards screen)

Joe, · Reply

The rubber bumper has a groove in it, which rides a notch along the top edge of the logic board. Its purpose is to ease pressure between the top of the phone and the board. If you look at the top of the frame, there is a little horizontal ridge about 0.8cm (3/8") long which is just the right width of the rubber bumper.

For reference:

http://i.imgur.com/GITTv.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/IoeZV.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Po9h8.jpg

Bradley, · Reply

Your images show incorrect placement of the rubber spacer. Step 20 shows correct placement. It is just above the scan code sticker on the motherboard. That is where the ribbon cables roll over, so it makes sense.

I assume the thick side would be facing the rear of the phone, but can not be sure.?

http://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi...

Keil Miller,

I wouldn't use Windex. It's mostly water. Why would anyone put water on a connection? Use isopropyl alcohol and be certain that it's at least 95% alcohol.

Better yet use contact cleaner or the original Brakleen (in the RED can). You can find the Brakleen at any automotive store.

Tom Brandolini, · Reply

Hope someone can ease my uncertainty: does the grounding finger for the

rear-facing camera go on TOP of the motherboard OR between the motherboard and

the standoff???

Tom Brandolini, · Reply

Under. There is nothing to ground if it went over the pcb. Look on the backside.

Keil Miller,

Be careful not to lose the black plastic triangle spacer (roughly the same shape as the one you removed in step 25, just thicker). This spacer can be seen in the first picture (step 26) in the lower left hand corner near the palm. It goes under the metal.

Steven K, · Reply

This isn't particularly easy. Maybe it's the screwdriver I have, but I can't seem to reach these corner screws.

Andrew Ruiz, · Reply

Nearly impossible to reinstall this screw when reassembling.

joeboo7902896, · Reply

I was able to perform this step on my first repair attempt. Here's a tip: the rounded part of the headphone cable is very stiff and "spring" like. Just take a very thin Philips (#000) screwdriver and lay it down on the cable diagonally, pointing almost directly towards the screw. Push gently down on the cable and it will cave in somewhat. This is fine. Then you can go straight in at the screw and turn it out.

Photograph: http://i.imgur.com/wKigI.jpg

Bradley, · Reply

Thank you Bradley. I've had tons of grief with this screw in the past. I've just had to turn the driver at an angle and curse and yell and retry it 5 times before it worked. This is a MUCH better approach! I had no idea that cable safely had that much give. You have my gratitude.

Kyle Sankowicz, · Reply

Took me an hour to get this screw back in. Tried different tools. I didn't have a long shank thin phillips head magnetic screwdriver. That would have helped out tremendously.

GSchlag77, · Reply

AH, perhaps I jinxed myself, but I could not get this screw out. I think I stripped the phillips head too. Is there anything left to do to salvage it?

Linda Vanasupa, · Reply

This screw was very hard to replace - lost the part after many minutes of trying.

tponeill3, · Reply

Remember to take the earpiece screen off the old lcd and put it on the new screen. Most replacements do not include this mesh screen.

boo, · Reply

DEFINITELY REMEMBER THE ABOVE ADVICE TO TRANSFER THE METAL MESH SCREEN FROM THE OLD SCREEN TO THE NEW ONE.

I've done this twice now, and it really, really stinks because you don't usually see it until the phone is all back together. That would mean doing the whole process again. Slapped myself in the forehead the second time.

Thank you so much for this easy to follow guide, but it's so good I don't usually look at the comments. Maybe this last little thing could be added.

Either way, Thanks Again.

isaacstuff, · Reply

took me about 2 hours to succesfully complete the entirety of this replacement. Although the hardest part is putting the screws back into their respective holes. And it does help to read the comments after reviewing the guide as well. It wasn't until I had the customer's phone completely back together that I realized that earpiece grill wasn't there on the new screen.. nevertheless.. Thank You to my favorite repair website for the easy to follow guides.

Chris, · Reply

There is also a small plastic ring around the front-facing camera that may come away with the broken screen. Make sure to recover it and re-attached to the camera before reassembly.

Mark, · Reply

Well I got about 1/2 way back through the re-assembly and found that the digitizer cable was too short. I disassembled back to here and this time started snapping the new display surface back into place beginning at the end where the digitizer cable feeds through. Then I did a "dry-run" with the logic board to ensure the cable reaches and it looks good.

tponeill3, · Reply

Instruction here refers to routing the digitizer/LCD cables through the

"outer case". Just for the sake of clarity,

isn't the part through which the ribbons are

being routed the FRAME? If it really IS the outer case, where is the "inner case"?

Tom Brandolini, · Reply

To Mark and the small plastic ring, I remembered to salvage it an save it, but then forgot to reinstall it... Oops... Humm.. Wonder if the phone really needs it? .......

Chenoa14, · Reply

ive gotten everything apart and all of the screws out.. but cannot seem to pry the screen off. suggestions?

Rachael, · Reply

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