iPhone 4 Verizon Dock Connector Replacement

Replace a broken dock connector in your iPhone 4 Verizon.

Use this guide to replace the dock connector assembly, which includes the dock connector and lower microphone.

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Edit Step 1 Rear Panel  ¶ 

  • Before disassembling your iPhone, be sure it is powered off.

  • Your phone's rear cover may have two #000 Phillips screws or Apple's 5-Point "Pentalobe" screws. Check which screws you have, and ensure you also have the correct screwdriver in order to remove them.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe or Phillips #000 screws next to the dock connector.

  • During reassembly, we recommend you replace the 5-point screws with equivalent Phillips screws. Our Liberation Kit provides the tools and screws needed to replace the Pentalobe screws with Phillips screws.

  • The 5-Point Screwdriver should only be used once, as it has the potential to strip the screws.

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Push the rear panel toward the top edge of the iPhone.

  • The panel will move about 2 mm.

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Pinch the rear panel with your fingers, and lift it away from the iPhone. Alternatively, use a Small Suction Cup .

  • Be careful not to damage the plastic clips attached to the rear panel.

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Edit Step 4 Battery  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 1.5 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board (if present).

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break it entirely.

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Pull up on the exposed clear plastic tab to peel the battery off the adhesive securing it to the iPhone.

  • Depending on the strength of the adhesive holding the battery down, the adhesive's strength may exceed the strength of the plastic pull-tab. If so, you'll need to work the plastic spudger around the battery to release the adhesive. Too much pressure exerted at any one point could short the battery internally rendering it useless.

  • Remove the battery.

  • Do not remove the plastic tab from the iPhone.

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Edit Step 7 Speaker Enclosure Assembly  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 1.8 mm Phillips screws securing the dock connector cable cover to the logic board.

  • Remove the metal dock connector cable cover.

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the dock cable up from its socket on the logic board.

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Peel the dock connector cable off the adhesive securing it to the logic board and the side of the speaker enclosure.

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Remove the 1.6 mm Phillips screw securing the pressure contact to the logic board near the vibrator.

  • Remove the pressure contact.

  • When reinstalling the pressure contact, be sure to clean it with a degreaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to create wireless interference.

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the Wi-Fi antenna cable up from its socket on the logic board.

  • De-route the Wi-Fi antenna cable out from under the metal fingers attached to the logic board.

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 2.4 mm Phillips screws securing the speaker enclosure assembly to the outer case.

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Remove the small black spacer that was under the Phillips screw near the vibrator.

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to lift the speaker enclosure assembly out of the case, being sure not to damage the EMI fingers on the attached Wi-Fi antenna.

  • Remove the speaker enclosure assembly.

  • Before reinstalling the speaker enclosure assembly's screws, be sure the Wi-Fi grounding fingers are installed below the lip in the iPhone's metal case as seen in the third picture.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points between the grounding fingers of the Wi-Fi antenna and the case of the iPhone with a de-greaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.

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Edit Step 15 Dock Connector  ¶ 

  • If present, remove the small strip of tape covering one of the dock connector screws.

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to flip up the retaining flap on the home button ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the home button ribbon cable out of its socket.

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Carefully pull, but do not remove, the rubber microphone holder out of its tube in the bottom edge of the iPhone.

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the dock connector to the case of the iPhone.

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Use a pair of tweezers to remove the small rubber spacer beneath the speaker enclosure mounting ear near the vibrator.

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Remove the tiny rubber spacer near the dock connector.

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to peel the dock connector and its cable off the black plastic case of the iPhone.

  • If you are replacing the dock connector with a new part, make sure to transfer the rubber casing around the microphone. You can do this using a spudger.

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Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Pry the dock connector away from its opening at the bottom of the iPhone.

  • Remove the dock connector.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iPhone 4 Verizon device page.

Required Tools

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock


$6.95 · 50+ In stock

Plastic Opening Tools

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

So I attempted once to fix the dock connector and failed. A month later I took the phone apart again. The first thing I noticed when taking off the dock connector from the logic board is that it wasn't seated properly. I attached it properly and now the iPhone charges and home button works perfectly!

superedman69, · Reply

What about it was not seated properly? any specific contact point? was it not screwed in well if it wasn't seated properly? I just replaced on a friends 4, but it has not turned on yet, and I can't figure it out. It just stopped charging one day so I figured it was a bad port from corrosion or something and replaced it. The swap was easy enough so I'm confused as to why it isn't turning on yet.


Great instructions. Easy to follow. I found that a JIS000 bit worked better than a phillips #00 bit on my Verizon iPhone 4, model A1349.

tabacs, · Reply

you do not need to take the battery out as chuck said so you dont run the risk of braking the battery connector socket from the logic board

22therealala, · Reply

In my situation, the #00 screwdriver had a hard time trying to get the screws off. Using a glasses screwdriver kit may be a better alternative if the screws are resistant to the #00 screwdriver.

tjaeger, · Reply

Note that the pull tab is not actually attached to the battery. It is attached to the iPhone chassis, and is only used to separate the battery from the adhesive. (Don't expect it to come out with the battery!)

Also, the adhesive is VERY strong. I had to use my plastic opening tool to assist in prying the battery loose. This is probably the most nerve-wracking part of the job.

Matt Strange, · Reply

It is much easier to slightly WARM the battery with a HAIRDRYER not a HEAT GUN to soften the adhesive. DO NOT GET BATTERY HOT AND DO NOT USE HEAT GUN


I just did this today. Everything was as scripted. Mine had lots of adhesive and had to use plastic spudger to go around battery to loosen up. Do not use plastic tab until you can see under battery a little bit. Great instructions. Took less than 10 minutes.


The adhesive is very strong and I was initially worried about damaging the phone by prying so much. There are a couple of places below the volume switch where you can pry between the metal of the case and the battery. If you lift the battery just a little, wiggle the pry bar further in and then start moving down the case. Don't worry about bending the battery, its dead anyway.

Do not pry on the left side (circuit board side) and do not use the pull tab until the adhesive is broken loose.

martin474, · Reply

I tried this at first with a plastic pry tool, and the adhesive was so strong that I broke the tool. I then used a large screwdriver and applied pressure very slowly along various places on the outer side of the battery. That eventually did the trick.

alsmith1928, · Reply

A new Dock connector may come with several pieces of plastic covering various adhesive surfaces so be sure to remove them before replacing.

ianmacneil, · Reply

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