iPhone 4 Power & Sensor Cable Replacement

This guide has more recent changes. Switch to the latest unverified version.

Replace a broken power and sensor cable on your iPhone 4. This part contains the proximity sensor, ambient light sensor, power cable and second microphone used for noise canceling.

This part contains the proximity sensor, ambient light sensor, power cable and second microphone used for noise canceling.

Image #1

Edit Step 1 Rear Panel  ¶ 

  • Before disassembling your iPhone, be sure it is powered off.

  • Your iPhone 4 rear cover may have either two #000 Phillips screws or Apple's 5-Point "Pentalobe" screws (second image). Check which screws you have, and ensure you also have the correct screwdriver in order to remove them.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe or Phillips #000 screws next to the dock connector.

  • During reassembly, we recommend you replace the 5-point screws with equivalent Phillips screws. Our Liberation Kit provides the tools and screws needed to replace the Pentalobe screws with Phillips screws.

  • The 5-Point Screwdriver should only be used once, as it has the potential to strip the screws.

Image #1

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Push the rear panel toward the top edge of the iPhone.

  • The panel will move about 2 mm.

Image #1

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Pinch the rear panel with your fingers and lift it away from the iPhone. Alternatively, use a Small Suction Cup .

  • Be careful not to damage the plastic clips attached to the rear panel.

  • If you are installing a new rear panel, be sure to remove the plastic protective sticker from the inside of the camera lens and the sticker from the large black area near the lens.

Image #1

Edit Step 4 Battery  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 2.5 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

    • Some devices may have two screws, one of which holds down the contact pad which is located above the screw indicated in red in the photo.

Image #1

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break it entirely.

  • Remove the metal clip covering the antenna connector.

Image #1

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Use the clear plastic pull tab to gently lift the battery out of the iPhone.

  • Do not remove the plastic tab from the iPhone.

  • You may need to use a plastic opening tool to loosen the adhesive under the battery.

  • Remove the contact clip from the iPhone.

  • Before reconnecting the battery connector, be sure the contact clip (shown in red) is properly positioned next to the battery connector.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the pressure contact as well as its contact point on the rear panel with a de-greaser such as windex. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.

Image #1

Edit Step 7 Logic Board  ¶ 

  • Use a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip to eject the SIM card and its holder.

  • This may require a significant amount of force.

  • Remove the SIM card and its holder.

Image #1

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Remove the following two screws:

    • One 1.2 mm Phillips

    • One 1.6 mm Phillips

  • Remove the thin steel dock connector cable cover from the iPhone.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the dock connector cable cover with a de-greaser such as windex. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.

Image #1

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Use an iPod opening tool to gently pry the dock cable connector up off the logic board from both short ends of the connector.

Image #1

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Carefully peel the dock ribbon cable off the logic board and the lower speaker enclosure.

  • Do not use excessive force to peel the dock ribbon cable off the logic board. Doing so may tear the cable.

Image #1

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Use an iPod opening tool to pry the lower antenna connector up off its socket on the logic board.

Image #1

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Remove the 1.9 mm Phillips screw securing the bottom of the logic board to the inner case.

Image #1

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Remove the following five screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna to to the logic board:

    • One 2.3 mm Phillips

    • Two 1.6 mm Phillips

    • One 1.4 mm Phillips

    • One 4.8 mm Phillips

  • When re-assembling, start off with replacing the 4.8 mm Philips screw first, then the 2.3 mm. This is to ensure there is no mix-up, and avoid rendering the LCD and digitizer useless.

  • Also make sure to put the long 4.8 mm Philips back in correctly when reassembling. This is the ground for the Wi-Fi antenna and is often the culprit if you are having bad Wi-Fi reception after reassembly.

Image #1

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Use an iPod opening tool to slightly lift the top edge of the Wi-Fi antenna away from the logic board.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the Wi-Fi retaining clips away from the inner frame.

  • Remove the Wi-Fi antenna from the iPhone. Make sure you don't lose the metal clips on the top of the cover where the 4.8mm screw attaches or the 4.8mm screw. That's the primary reason for abnormal Wi-Fi performance after the reassembly.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the connector cover with a de-greaser such as Windex. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues. Do not clean the connectors themselves with Windex.

Image #1

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Use an iPod opening tool to carefully lift the rear camera connector up off its socket on the logic board.

  • Remove the rear camera.

Image #1

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Remove the small circular white sticker (warranty sticker and water indicator) covering the screw near the battery pull tab.

  • Remove the 2.4 mm Phillips screw that was hidden underneath the sticker.

Image #1

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently pry the following connectors up and out of their sockets on the logic board:

    • Digitizer cable (pry from bottom)

    • LCD cable (pry from bottom)

    • Headphone jack/volume button cable (pry from top)

    • Top Microphone/sleep button cable (pry from top)

    • Front camera cable (pry from top)

Image #1

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the 4.8 mm standoff near the headphone jack.

  • When reassembling the device, this standoff sets the height of the Wi-Fi shield removed in step 13. If not torqued down, the shield will be above the plane of the frame and the back will not slide into place in step 2. The shield should be flush with the headphone jack.

  • When reassembling the motherboard, ensure that its edge sits under the circled standoff, otherwise the screws will not fit.

  • When reassembling ensure that the small rubber spacer attached to the top of the motherboard is in place. Without this part the motherboard could damage the ribbon cables around it.

Image #1

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Carefully remove the logic board from the iPhone, minding any cables that may get caught.

    • Be careful not to damage the small gold prong (marked in red, near the top) as it's very fragile.

  • On reassembly, be careful not to trap the lower antenna cable beneath the logic board.

Image #1

Edit Step 20 Front Facing Camera  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to lift the thin steel front camera retainer off the front camera.

  • Remove the front camera retainer.

Image #1

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Carefully lift the front facing camera out of the iPhone.

  • It may be helpful to use tweezers to reinstall the front camera retainer.

Image #1

Edit Step 22 Power & Sensor Cable  ¶ 

  • Remove the following two screws securing the vibrator to the inner frame:

    • One 6 mm Phillips

    • One 1.4 mm Phillips

  • Remove the vibrator from the inner case.

Image #1

Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the earpiece speaker away from the adhesive securing it to the front panel.

  • Be sure to pry beneath the entire speaker, and not inside it, which may cause it to split open.

Image #1

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Carefully pull the power button bracket up and out of the outer case.

  • This bracket is made of cast aluminum and is very easily cracked. Proceed with caution.

Image #1

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the body of the headphone jack out of the outer case.

  • Take extra caution to avoid ripping the thin cable.

Image #1

Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Grab the power & sensor cable near the microphone and peel it off the front panel, being careful not to rip it in the process.

  • Take note of the gold, rectangular microphone attached vertically to the case. Take care not to rip it when removing the cable.

No image

Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • No instructions yet.
Image #1

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • If you are replacing the power & sensor cable with a new unit, use the edge of a plastic opening tool to peel the electronic power switch off its metal bracket.

  • Also be sure to transfer the proximity sensor foam/UV-filter adhered to the old power & sensor cable if your new one does not already come with one. It looks like a small square and can be peeled off with tweezers.

  • Transfer the bracket to your new power & sensor cable.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iPhone 4 device page.

Required Tools


$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Flathead 3/32" or 2.5 mm Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock


$6.95 · 50+ In stock

Plastic Opening Tools

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Related Products

Recommended Tools

Universal Drive Adapter

$29.95 · 50+ In stock

iFixit Lock Pick Set

$29.95 · 50+ In stock

Inspection Scope

$39.95 · 50+ In stock

Frictionless Ratchet

$24.95 · 50+ In stock

Portable Anti-Static Mat

$34.95 · 45 In stock

Comments Comments are onturn off

Be careful removing the headphone adapter, the ribbon is very easy to rib with the metal brace beneath it.

Ryan Bahr, · Reply

Thank you very much for the, it has been very useful for my to change the power and sensor cable.

You are doing a very good job in this web.

rafar1980, · Reply

Now this is more helpful, than the power button repair guide that they gave us. This one still kind of leaves me hanging on how I'm supposed to put the silver button back into the hole so that it makes contact with the orange dome(aka the powerbutton).

Anthony, · Reply

I replaced the Home button and the Power & Sensor cable, along with battery. Let me explain some caveats with ifixit's parts (OEM Apple parts):

-The power-sensor part does not include a new gasket/filter for the sensor- recommend tweezers and care.

-The power-sensor cable needs the foam pad transferred with the adhesive- extreme care with removal.

-IF the power button isn't working it is likely the cable, not the button.

-I used a small ice cube tray.

-It took me an hour (I had to get up and walk away...frustration factor high with the delicate flex cables and adhesive). Lit magnifier is welcome. Definitely use a spudge stick.

-I broke 2 of the 4 shield/antenna tabs that you need to tuck down from the speaker on re-assembly. I didn't force them, but so easy to press too hard in seating the speaker.

- I do repairs on a grounded-ESD mat and wore wriststrap.

-Right screw on the power button brace is PITA to access...careful pressing on the display flex cables to access the tiny screw. Magnetize your bit!

meekgeek, · Reply

Great guide and perfect web site. It is extremely easy to find what you are looking for and order the components you need.

alessandronapoli, · Reply

Be careful in the step after removing the battery connector and then the battery, you forgot to mention the small springed contact piece below the batt connector, sharing the same screw. I dropped it on the floor after handling the batt but found it and figured out how to place it in the re-build. Anyhow, nice guide 1.5 hrs work wo to go on replacing the button circuit.

Clive Hogg, · Reply

Following this guide I was able to replace my power cable and now everything is fine! Thanks

Arthur, · Reply

Great Tutorial.. and most importantly great tips from users such as ->

1. - printing the pages and taping the screws at step with scotch..

2. To avoid greasy hands problem, I used tweezers all the time ..

raghavannvr, · Reply

I'm a newbie and while trying to replace the power and sensor cable I tore the front camera cable, the headphone jack cable, the screen is black now (must be cables too)


jpfroud, · Reply


I was in trouble with my Power button. I did it successfully however, I'm now facing an issue with the Sensor. It seems that something is wrong with my Sensor. I heard about a filter. Any thoughts?

jklcarton, · Reply

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE SENSOR FILTER TRANSFERRED!!! The guide does NOT make it explicit!!! Everything's ok except the proximity sensor. Not looking forward to take it apart again. The new cable may rip!

justin2191, · Reply

Power button wouldn't click so I followed a different guide (very similar to this). I only realized now that proximity sensor wasn't working. It doesn't bother me too much, but I may try to fix it. I had to reopen it to fix my WiFi after a little piece fell out and I replaced it with aluminum foil. A small piece of plastic fell out that looks like the proximity sensor. How does it get affixed back to the power bracket?

My main problem is that my pinhole microphone (next to the headphone jack for speaker phone and audio in videos) doesn't work anymore. It gives me a hissing sound. A guy at a fix-it store seemed to tell me that it was related to the power bracket and things might need to be shuffled around because it was very unlikely it was damaged. Does the little metal square on the power bracket provide power for the microphone? Is there anything specific that needs to be touching other parts in there to make it function properly?

If you could respond to dannyjfong@gmail.com I would be very grateful.

Danny, · Reply

do anyone know where this pice falled out? it happened when i removed the logic board i think.. http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/266...

Serje, · Reply

To Serge: it goes between the speaker and the top plastic part of the power cable. You can see it in step 29 first pict.

omeucorreode, · Reply

after the breaking of the switch power button I proceeded to replace the flat. After putting everything I have, however, found that the hands-free microphone is not functioning.

I disassembled everything again, double checked but it seems to be all right (power button and proximity sensor are ok)

I can not understand what could have gone wrong.

I should add that the hands-free microphone with the old flat was working at 100%.

I have already ordered a new flat, because maybe what I have mounted is defective ... I doubt it but I hope so!

Does anyone have ideas or suggestions?

Maurizio, · Reply

Note on the screw template - Step 20 should be Step 22, and Step 22 should be Step 24. I also used Scotch Removable Double Sided Tape to hold the screws to the screw template page. Really did the job!

tdroz, · Reply

I am repairing a power button that won't press down anymore. I have replaced the button but am still not able to push the button. Is this a sensor cable issue or is it something else completely?

Rick de Vroede, · Reply

No my phone is dead :(

tombronowski, · Reply

Caution: New phones may contain T1 screw heads instead of Phillips.

ajg35, · Reply

any news on those screwdrivers? where can we buy them?


using something like the 18-compartment tray will GREATLY help with this one; there are over a dozen groups of parts. For re-assembly having a digital calipers to measure the 2.4 vs the 2.6mm screws also helps greatly.

awr, · Reply

My method for hardware management during delicate phone surgery is to take and print out on 8.5"x11' paper, one or more pictures of the open phone in various stages of disassembly, and then tape the screws to the appropriate spots on the pictures. Also write numbers on the pictures next the screws to indicate the order in which you removed them.


I did a successful surgery on my iPhone, be warned this is not for the faint of heart!

I've done iPod screen replacements, battery replacements, this is by far much more difficult and intricate.

Great write up! Thanks a million.

Jaysen Strange, · Reply

Couldn't even get both screws out of the bottom of the case. One was easy and other refuses to budge. Screws so small I can't see if it is turning or screw driver is properly seated. Sad I too have done screen replacements on other phones. Don't know any secrets to get the screw out

ckracht, · Reply

I also have a problem with seeing what is happening with some of those tiny little screws and parts. For other projects that I do, I use an Opti-Visor. It slips over your head and provides 10x magnification. ( You can find them on Amazon).

Yeah, it adds cost to the project and you would have to wait for delivery, but it sure makes a world of difference in seeing what you are working with / on.


On an early iPhone 4 I found that the #000 Phillips bit included in the 54 Bit Driver Kit didn't actually fit the screws. However the JIS #000 also in the kit did fit quite well. This is due to the JIS bits "thinner" design to prevent camming out of the slot. Otherwise everything went well. Looking forward to replacing the battery in my other phone that has the pentalobe screws. Glad I got the 54 Bit kit!

etler, · Reply

Use a vacuum duster and a sharp tool to pry out the dust, this can increase the volume insanely!

Dpairs, · Reply

At the very last second before insertion, the second new screw for the bottom popped out of my pliers! I dont' want to use the old ones, but I don't want to leave it with one screw. Can I get a replacement screw?

Otherwise it went together fine, and I figured out for myselkf that the contact needs to be bent,,,

loujudson, · Reply

What does the park that is gold and next to the 4.8mm screw for the antenna? Looks like I am missing that part and almost positive that is why I can't pick up or connect to any wifi signals. I have the screw and the antenna from another phone that is working and tried it on the broken phone and still doesn't work. Only thing different is that gold metal piece to the left of that 4.8 mm screw. Can I buy that part? how do I attach it?

Jay Pennington, · Reply

not able to unscrew

Naved Zaidi, · Reply

using suction cup with too much force breaks rear panel

lily einstein, · Reply

Remove the single 2.5 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board- for me this Phillips screw won't budge from its place have tried all the phillips combinations 000, 00, 0, 1 and the straight /slotted 1.5 mm but nothing. can some help me please purchased a replacement battery for my iPhone 4 but not able to do it just because of this screw.

Naved Zaidi, · Reply

I was going through the take apart and after reassembly, it seems to just sit there an power cycle. It's as though the battery is no longer working. Any thoughts as to what I may have done wrong?

Social Apples, · Reply

Use #000 fine screw driver!!!

bfbogaert, · Reply

Use an #000 fine screw driver to remove two screws from iPhone 4s!

bfbogaert, · Reply

There is a metal bracket that secures the connector, that will be removed before the conector is unfasten

poseido, · Reply

When I used a plastic opening tool to gently disconnect the battery connector from its socket, I accidently remove the socket too.. Now what? :( ......

odisseas, · Reply

Stuck on step 4 can't unscrew the battery screw. stopped trying as all i seem to be doing is damaging the screw any tips as to how to approach this?

Tazziii, · Reply

my phone doesnt have a screw that connects the battery to the logic bored...is that a problem?

sadie, · Reply

I didn't need to remove the battery !! why would you take the battery away, the motor can be removed easily with the battery in place, and the whole process would take less than 2 minutes if you exclude the battery steps

Mohammed Fahmy, · Reply

I have trouble with the screw: I bought my used and now opened it for the first time. The screw is totally messed up, I can't unscrew it because the screwdriver doesn't fit in the screw/doesn't unscrew it. What can I do?

dfrisch86, · Reply

There is a small black L-shaped bracket of some sort that tits between the battery connector and the motherboard socket, with a loop on one corner that sits betwen the riserand the battery connector. Remove this now, and do not forget to re install it on assembly.

stevesontheroad, · Reply

When reattaching this bracket make sure your Battery ribbon is already tucked underneath the battery with only the minimum clearance required. Then make sure the brackets overhang is over the battery ribbon. Dont try to slide it under the Ribbon.

crimney, · Reply

In Step 5 be EXTRA careful with the battery connector as the socket can come off extremely easy. This can mess up the replacement a little bit and cost you extra. Otherwise, this guide is excellent.

Good luck, fixers!

I fix(ed) it!

mateuszkus, · Reply

Just be careful when removing the battery with the plastic pull tab. On some units, they use so much glue that it's virtually impossible to take the battery.

In such an instance, you could use the iPod opening tool to assist (just be careful where you stick it!)

klubn, · Reply

use the iPod opening tool to pry gently under the battery from the outer edge of the phone and work towards the plastic tab. the tab is not actually attached to the battery itself, but a plastic sheet between the battery and inner frame. the adhesive on the battery tends to be under the edge of the battery nearest the center of the phone.

David Iwanicki, · Reply

Understand that the plastic pull tab is part of the phone. It sits under the battery like a tray and is not connected to the battery so it needs to stay in tact.

mattcfi, · Reply

once the iphone restarted, the battery was at 30%.

baldus, · Reply

This i think is the most diffucult part.

Because they use so much glue on it. I have to did this with so much force.

Glad that i didn't kill the circuit board when i took this out.

Shoung0690, · Reply

My battery was so firmly glued in, it took a long time to slowly pry it loose. Patience is the key to this process. I could see easily damaging the circuit board by using too much force. The plastic tab did not help at all.

The ribbon cable attaching the new battery to the battery connector clip is longer than the original. I clicked the clip into the socket first and then was very careful to fold the excess while putting the battery back in so the ribbon cable didn't kink. One kink in this could sever the battery leads.

drathbun, · Reply

My ribbon cable was also longer than the original. How did you get it to not kink while placing the batter back into the phone? That seems to be my only hang up at the moment


Piece of cake! The hardest part was being sure the outer pentalobe screws were actually turning and I wasn't stripping them. Battery was glued firmly in, so I loosened it from the outside instead of using the plastic pull-tab. I pre-bent the battery connector neck before putting it back in and had no problems with it fitting in. Getting the battery connector aligned with the antenna piece underneath was a bit fiddly. Got the case back on, put in the new screws, and powered the phone on without problem. Had 40% charge, all seems well. Yippee!

chezbuttons, · Reply

Do NOT use a spudger or similar type of prising tool to try lift up the battery. Instead, just warm up the whole area with a hot air gun or hair drier to soften the glue.

The reason why I say don't use an implement to try lift the battery is because far too many times I've seen punctured & bent batteries come in to this workshop that have to be thrown out for safety reasons. It only takes a grain of sand, or a burr on the spudger and you're risking a potential cell rupture and potential fire.

Just use a bit of heat ( not a lot! ) to soften up the glue and it'll come away with the plastic pull tab.

Paul L Daniels, · Reply

These instructions don't mention putting the 2.5mm screw back in. I found this very challenging because it is so short, so very difficult to line it up to get it back in the hole, and very easy to drop it inside the phone. Take care.

robshopping, · Reply

Non problem with reassembly - just took patience - my is that the phone now does not want to charge the battery. It shows taht the battery is dead and charger needs to be connected but does not charge?

What have I not done coreectly - or at least what can I check to determine the problem?


Richard Bebee, · Reply

The grey cable on the top right of the 1st picture might be confusing, it's the connector with cable which you'll disconnect in step 9 only, so you can't see it this way in this phase.

mhejjas, · Reply

Be careful to make sure you don't pinch the clear plastic tab under the mobo when reinstalling. :P

jonathan, · Reply

Box 3 BOx 3 Box 3 petite vis a gauche

bigben8, · Reply

I had trouble with my SIM card at this point. It wouldn't go all the way in - only about 1mm short but enough to keep the phone from being able to read it. It seems that the red screw in this step is the culprit. I loosened it up a bit and the SIM card tray was able to fit flush.

budgetbooksfl, · Reply

Use the 1.6mm screw standoff as leverage against to lift the connector.

Mark, · Reply

Make sure not to pry too much under the flex cable because you will likely damage the gold / silver shining adhesive tape that is located beneath it.

The guide is missing a comment on this and one would not expect the tape there. Check out the photos of step 10 to get an idea of how the tape looks like.

I assume this to be some kind of head-conductive component.

It won't be much of a problem if you damage parts of it though.

But if you peel off / coil up too much of it, it could get too big and the flex cable could get damaged when it's pressed against it.

Stefan, · Reply

be extremely careful to check that there isnt any metallic conductive glue sticking, some may remain attached to the motherboard-connecter position in its space on top of the logicboard

Dai, · Reply

So if that glue does stick to the 'motherboard', does it damage the phone?

Dalton , · Reply

NOTE: When replacing the logic board, be sure this antenna remains exposed and doesn't become trapped under the board.

charlesholt, · Reply

Just wondering if it is possible and where to get one of those indicators

edward, · Reply

what are you talking about here???

Steven Munoz, · Reply

Yeah, would like to know the value of the little blue inductor ... my iPhone 4 doesn't have it any more and I have the worst signal.

PressureFM, · Reply

I wasn't sure how to carefully detach the antennae. Can anyone offer some insight on how to reattach the antennae? Is it supposed to be soldered to the board? Or is it a pin attachment?

kulpsterdaman, · Reply

see that tiny little blue thing just to the left of the antenna connector but before the screw? make sure you DON'T knock that out of place otherwise your iphone becomes a heavy ipod touch (yes. this idiot made that mistake while struggling to get the antenna connector back in - which for the record just clips back in). this would have been a handy tip for me while i was reading the instructions, which apart from that little trinket of information, were very easy to follow.


dan, · Reply

Be careful, I almost damaged this specific screw by using a Phillips #00 screwdriver. It's screwed in tighter than most others. You will need a Phillips #000 or else your #00 has to be a really sharp one.

Kelvin Leong, · Reply

The cross on top of the screw on my phone is all messed up - not from me stripping it, it just looks like a manufacturing error. The screwdriver won't even fit into the screw, and I can't get it out (I have no idea how they got it in in the first place). Any suggestions?

Mike Machado, · Reply

same here, screw stripped any suggestions?

Gary Woodward,

Couple of ways to get rounded-out-head screws;

1) use a tiny drop of super glue on the top place your screwdriver on the drop/screw, then sprinkle a bit of bicarb-soda on to the wet super glue, it'll harden very rapidly and form a fillet; wait a minute and you should be able to then unscrew the screw.

Be VERY CAREFUL when doing this, because you don't want to have superglue wicking between the screw and the circuit board.

Perhaps practice on some other things first.

I've removed several like this before; frequently I find the culprits for rounded out slots are ham-fisted people trying to do their own repairs in the past.

Paul L Daniels, · Reply

Get a set of these precision screw extractors. I own a small electronics repair shop and I wouldn't be without them. If you buy them remember that the ends are reversible in case you dull one end. http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Precision-Sc...

Joshua, · Reply

Be careful about the very small spring contact that is under the shield and around the 4.8 mm screw - it can spring out when the shield is removed. It must be reinserted prior to installing the shield, with the thick part up and the spring in contact with the gold pad to the right of the screw hole in the case.

Steve Noland, · Reply

INCREDIBLE! Steve this probably happens to people all the time. The "very small spring contact that is under the shield and around the 4.8 mm screw" I will elaborate on. It's not so much around the 4.8mm screw as it actually part of the assembly where the 4.8 mm screw is tightened. I added an arrow to this picture to visually illustrate:


I had no wifi at all until this was present. I had overlooked the piece and spent hours trying to figure out where it went. BIG THANK YOU to Steve for his comment. After fixing, my wifi was perfect.


When re-assembling, start off with replacing the 4.8 mm Philips screw first, then the 2.3 mm. This is to ensure there is no mix-up, and avoid rendering the LCD and digitizer useless. Steve or someone -- can you explain what is meant by this? My LCD and digitizer now does not work, but I don't think I have any screws in the wrong place.


I have the same issue than David. Could anyone elaborate on the brief note in the manual? Thank you!

Christoph Biehl,

There is a washer under the plate that is held together by the 1.4mm Philips. This might come loose. Be careful not to lose it.

nsolis, · Reply

Confirming this. It's not in the description and it came out when I disconnected the screw. At first I was unsure where it came from, but when I reassembled the phone, the yellow screw didn't make contact, so I realized the washer had to go under the contact plate.


So that small washer behind the 1.4 screw became detached during reassembly. What affect does this have? My phOne started to overheat; I then turned off my wifi and things are fine.. How is this related you think?


If a nut under the YELLOW screw is rotating, hold the nut with tweezers.

yujin yamada, · Reply

Somehow i twisted the head off of the 4.8mm screw (ground) during reassembly and not i have terrible wifi. Trying to come up with a solution.... any suggestions?

racaruso90, · Reply

On my phone the "washer" that the 1.4mm screw goes into I think is actually the mounting post that had come detached. I realize afterwards there was therefore no point removing this screw, but I did remove (and put it back afterwards) by holding onto the loose post/washer with tweezers to prevent it turning.

Anthony Berkow, · Reply

Print this image out (step 13) - trust me, you'll need it later!

Alan Shenton, · Reply

The "washer" that a few of the commenters have mentioned isn't a washer nor a broken post. It is a circular nut that helps the WiFi antenna get a good connection to the logic board. It is part of a sandwich: 1.4mm screw head WiFi antenna logic board ++ circular nut. I held it in place with tweezers and then screwed the 1.4mm screw in. Don't lose this nut!

tdroz, · Reply

I found that the 1.4 mm screw measured a little less than 1.1 mm on my phone. So don't be confused by that.

Daniel, · Reply

When I came to reassemble at this step, I noticed the 1.4mm screw no longer had anything to screw to. The nut or washer or whatever it is that you mention has gone. My screen does not work any more. Is this connected and/or is there anything I can do to peplace what is lost?

Chris, · Reply

This screw is supposed to tie into a very small nut that sits under a small u-shaped tab in the EMI shield that is fixed to the PCB. Maybe that nut has moved or got lost. I recommend you to lift that small tab to find it because if loose it could create a short-circuit.

But that screw/nut is absolutely not essential to the LCD. It should work without it.

Christophe De Wolf,

watch for the connector cover here - it tends to be quite "springy" and may fly towards you when you attempt to release the clips

David Iwanicki, · Reply

What do these metal clips look like?

ryanporter, · Reply

Be Careful of a tiny metal piece attached to the black bit on top that acts as the screw spot for the blue screw. I just slid it back on. Hopefully no harm done.

crimney, · Reply

do you have a photo or description?

David Holmes,

The clip actually looks like it might be a ground. it's gold and is folded in two. There's a screw cutout and something that looks like it physically is supposed to touch something. Phone works fine without it, though.

stores, · Reply

the rear camera has an extra long tab which runs under the digitizer cable - be careful not to bend this while removing the camera.

David Iwanicki, · Reply

To avoid damaging the Main Camera, it will probably be better to do Step 18 first before doing this step. This is because part of the camera is actually under the Digitizer and LCD cable.

nsolis, · Reply

There was no screw underneath the warranty sticker or even a place for a screw. Disappointed.

Ed Wiliams, · Reply

I removed by accident the other white sticker on the logic board. What happens now? Will the phone work?

Vit Rozehnal, · Reply

It won't hurt anything.


What are these types of connectors called? anyone know where to order just the connectors? or even better would be extension cables

Chris, · Reply

blue, green and yellow down, orange and red up. red BEFORE orange, as part of the ribbon is UNDER red.


unklbyl, · Reply

Windex didn't work well for me for degreasing the connections. It made the connections worse in fact. Now my digitizer AND my screen don't work.

johnpetraborg, · Reply

It seems that you misunderstood the notes throughout the guide. You should only clean metal to metal contact points, such as the contact area between the EMI fingers and the metal case on the speaker enclosure. Applying Windex in connectors or sockets of any type will almost certainly destroy components in your phone.

Andrew Bookholt,

when i was replacing the logic board a small gold piece came off. It is above the top left corner of the orange box for the LCD cable. What is it for?

romaine, · Reply

If you are replacing any of the cables that connect here, be sure to save the foam from the top of the connector to put on your replacement part. It helps secure the connector once the connector cover is put back during reassembly.

Blarg, · Reply

When re-plugging the yellow connector (the leftmost of the 3 connectors that you disconnected from the top) put the cables behind and not before the metal part with a hole where the EMI Shield 2 clips in. Otherwise you will not be able do step 13.

Philippe Leledy, · Reply

Be carefull of a very small component soldered near the yellow connector. It can pop off and make your front camera irresponsive.

Christophe De Wolf, · Reply

When reassembling, the various connectors have a leading plastic lip that allows you to align and then slowly snap in place. i pushed on the pads on top of the connectors with the flat tool provided in the kit. Also, the first time, i did not press the LCD cable very well, so the phone was working, but no display showing. once i snapped this in place the second time, it worked like a charm.

hansiemys, · Reply

After reassembly, when I changed to the front camera, the display got stuck in shutter mode. The website bellow suggests I lost a microscopic jumper that enables the front camera. I am guessing this happened when I disconnected the 3 connectors. The dang jumper is so small I never even noticed that I lost it. Oh well at least the rear camera still works... http://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/54838...

Slobird, · Reply

I ran into a not workin front camera after a screen replacement on Iphone4. I found out that I had broken the tiny jumper on the main board when I pried off the headphone plug. That jumper is next to the right upper corner of the headphone/volume button plug (yellow marked in step 17 of relacement guide), you can see it in the picture as two silvery dots. If your prying tool sits on that jumper when levelling the plug off, it is history. I took a ampoule of conducting silver liquid, but instead of shaking it I took some of the sediment out with a thin wire and aplied a tiny blob over the two remaining soldering pads left. And alas, it worked ! Front camera is ok again. Thanks to those who found out about that jumper.

dl7utx, · Reply

There is a small rectangular rubber bumper on the top of the logic board. You can see it a little at the top of the picture. I knocked mine off and had no idea where it came from! Took my wife forever searching the pictures to locate where it was from.

nickbits, · Reply

Take care to put the small ruber piece into place to protect the ribon cable for the lcd dyplay

Hanspeter, · Reply

The smallest screw below the Digitizer connector is held by a tiny nut which is fixed below the EMI shield. Beware because this thing can get loose easily.

mcbohdo, · Reply

I believe that's the one he's referring to...


Image of rectangular rubber piece


Rajan, · Reply

Thank you Rajan for this picture. The rubber piece fell out and i was frantically trying to find its spot.


Yes! Thanks for this pic! I found this little piece in the body of the phone after I removed the logic board and was stumped! Real lifesaver!


how do i remove the 4.8 mm stand off? ifixit instructions arent detailed enough.

Austin, · Reply

I have found that the easiest way to remove these standoffs is to loosen them with a 2.0 or 2.3 mm standard (flat) blade driver bit. Then, once it is loose, you can either loosen it the rest of the way, or for better control, insert your pentalobe driver into the center of it and loosen it the rest of the way. If your pentalobe driver won't turn it, then it is not loose enough, or the end of one of the small screws has broken off in it (actually fairly common).

Best of luck to you! Just ask if you need more info!


When reassembling, ensure the ribbon cables for the connector are between the silver metal and the circuit board. the wifi antenna plate clips into the silver metal.

Victor, · Reply

Note where the little rubber thing is. It's there to protect the digitizer and LCD ribbons curving over the top of the mobo. If you do these a lot, you're going to have a WTF moment when you go to put it back together and you have this short rubber strip....

jonathan, · Reply

where can i buy logic board from the iPhone

jamie, · Reply

be careful when putting the logic board back in: i trapped the lower antenna cable under it (see step 11). Also, it 'hooks in' at the top and rotates down; there is a notch cut into the outer case to capture the top of the motherboard.

awr, · Reply

Missing rubber guard can causing touchscreen sensitivity & accuracy problem.

Otniel Yoreiza, · Reply

Do not forget the rubber piece. When replacing my home button, I noticed this rubber piece fall out of the phone, and couldn't figure out where it went. I left it out, and my touchscreen had all sorts of problem. I thought I had damaged the digitizer ribbon. I even bought a new screen and had similar problems after putting that in. I finally put a makeshift piece of rubber that I cut up into the spot where this rubber piece had gone, and currently haven't had problems for over a week. This rubber piece must suppress interference problems of some kind.

dreyna, · Reply

Great point! I had the logic board put back in and then found this little thing hanging out. I found a "tip" on a different site that showed it going between the rear-facing camera and the logic board! Thanks!


Can we get a better photo of where rubber piece goes? Mine fell off, and I have no idea where to put it back on to.

csuslog, · Reply

It goes on the edge of the logic board where the Digitizer and LCD Panel ribbon cables bend over the Logic Board before they plug into it. The rubber piece protects the ribbon cables from chafing like a bumper and from interferance.


You can see it on the upper left of the Logic Board, just to the right of the camera in the photo for Step 18. It is easier to see if you click on the view huge link to blow up the photo.


Note that when re-installing the logic board, do not forget about the antenna connector near the bottom of the phone. Make sure that it does not get trapped under the logic board when you are placing the logic board in the case.

Scott, · Reply

Ear piece metal connectors: You can see them on step 22. If those are not bent up enough (laying flat) you won't have contact with the logic board... and no more audio from the ear piece. This is what happened to me. I had to unmount it again to bend them and hop the ear piece worked again!

chuvux, · Reply

This was a very tricky part. Just make sure that you don't put pressure on the login board to get it into place, take your time and ease it in. There will be a bit of spring in it when you push down which is a combination of the folded LCD and Digitizer Ribbon Cables and the two copper contacts underneath.

gregjames, · Reply

This was absolutely the hardest part - had to do it over many times. The digitizer ribbon cable kept insisting on folding up under the logic board. Tip: do not let the cable fold up, even it that's how it naturally wants to go, it will be too short.

Julian Boilen, · Reply

I found it easier to remove the camera after removing the headphone jack. The right side of the retainer was refusing to come off.

Patricia Z, · Reply

Can someone please explain why you take the front camera out? It is on the opposite side of the power button, and not in the way. Am I missing something?

Anthony, · Reply

My screen is kaing really funny lines now and the phone doesnt come on. I dont know if i out the little gold thingy back correctly though, need help please!!!

Wesley Barnes, · Reply

This step is completely unnecessary- you don't need to remove the camera if you need to install the headphone jack part. The cables don't even overlap.

Daniel Maloney, · Reply

Agreed, this step is not necessary, please remove it from the tutorial!

Arthur, · Reply

I agree, steps 20 and 21 are completely useless. In fact I found it hard to remove the metal cover, so just skipped it, seeing that it shouldn't affect the button. And it didn't. I also think these steps should be removed not to cause the confusion.

Daria, · Reply

Yes the camera does not need to be taken out. It can stay in. Removing the metal camera clip is a pain. This is the step that took me the longest and would have saved me an hour if I didn't have to do it. If you do take the clip off and take the camera out can you put a higher resolution camera in? Anyway when putting the clip back the clip arms/legs go on the outside of the receiving metal slots-NOT ON THE INSIDE. I tried too long to get them to clip on the inside thinking I was doing something wrong.

hubafrost, · Reply

******** you dont mention the camera! you have to remove the camera before you proceed to the next step.

stergios, · Reply

I agree! It is very important to remove the front camera before proceeding past step 19. It's removal is reflected in the pictures used in subsequent steps! I edited the guide to reflect this, but my edit was rejected. I contacted iFixit about the missing step, and was told that enough people completed the guide without it, so it was deemed not necessary.


Hi there. It seems this guide had a missing prerequisite, the front-facing camera. The removal of the front-facing camera has been added. We apologize for any inconvenience this might have caused. Thanks for letting us know.

Walter Galan, · Reply

NOTE FOR REMOVAL--FINAL PIECE: as i was removing the last part of the complex ribbon assembly and arrived at the final connection to remove, i could not figure out from the photos what was holding it to the phone chassis. i will try to describe it so its more clear, since there doesn't seem to be any description of what i'm talking about...

1. the final attachment is held on vertically to a chassis wall. use a small flat object, perhaps your fingernail between the black foam and the vertical wall. it is a trick to pull the final piece off the wall without damaging the black foam. mine is now damaged and will not likely re-stick.

it may not normally be a problem since your new piece may come with a rubber sticky thing. but in my case, i was removing a good one to replace a damaged one on my other phone.

Sam Kassis, · Reply

The power button bracket has 2 screws that need to be removed, there's no mention of them in this tutorial.

DarkCloud, · Reply

The instructions here should specify that the headphone jack is attached to a ribbon cable. And that said cable is *extremely* fragile.

I didn't even feel resistance when removing the jack and now I have to replace that assembly as well. :(

Matthew Dahlquist, · Reply

Same problem with tearing the headphone adapter ribbon. Didn't even notice it until I turned over the phone and the jack part fell out and hit the floor.

mattabuxton, · Reply

No need to remove fully the headphone Jack..

Just pull it up from the upper part.. that's sufficient enough

to remove the power/sensor cable .

raghavannvr, · Reply

There is a small plastic 'box' covering a few components that must be transferred to the replacement cable assembly. Also, there is a small foam 'frame' that covers a sensor (proximity?) that must be transferred to the replacement cable assembly.

Blarg, · Reply

I'm having constant problems with those cables. It came to the point that I took that cable out of my personal iphone and put it back and after that the proximity and light sensors don't work. And I tested 10 cables on 3 different phones and I can't get it to work. Do you have any idea what I may be doing wrong? The power button work, so it's just the sensors...and I really can't believe all my cables are bad because I had a good one, took it out, installed back and it stopped working. What can I be doing wrong during the installation?


I had the same problem, grze, and after lots of frustration and trial/error I realized that the foam frame that Blarg referred to was this 0.5 cm plastic/rubber piece that was stuck on the original power and sensor cable. It's a rubber frame with a cool-looking reflective glass screen in the middle. If you transfer that onto the proximity sensor on your replacement cable (which doesn't come with it)... it should work perfectly.

Rich, · Reply

Is there a place where you can buy these foams that you put on the proximity sensor?

When I remove these from the original one, they just don't stick anymore.

Any Ideas? (I don't want to pay 5$ for a single foam)


Anyone have information regarding where to buy the proximity sensor filter, preferably in the USA? The guide just mentions a shroud but doesn't have a picture for it and now my proximity sensor isn't working during calls.

MannyF, · Reply

After installing a new sensor cable, the proximity sensor was not working, but the sleep button and also the mic noise reductor too. Luckly I found the old cable in the trash and transplanted the square foam to the new one and got proximity sensor working again.

Drfrag, · Reply

My power button stopped working. Figured it was mechanical, since it didn't "click" anymore. got a new power/sensor cable, replaced it using this guide and now the proximity sensor is not working. I put all the rubber foams back in their places, made sure everything was stuck where supposed and it is still not working. If you are replacing yours, be very careful during this part!

Andrei, · Reply

"Also be sure to transfer the proximity sensor shroud/filter adhered to the old power & sensor cable if your new one does not already come with one."

It took me a while to figure out what they were referring to. Almost threw it out since it was stuck to the old flex! It's the little rectangular plastic piece with a little loop at the top left. You can see it in the middle of the power flex displayed in the previous step's picture. It seems it keeps the proximity sensor in place. It would be helpful if it were circled.

Patricia Z, · Reply

View Statistics:

Today: 1

This Week: 460

This Month: 3,395

All Time: 302,855