iPhone 4 Power & Lock Button Replacement

Replace the metal power and lock button on your iPhone 4.

This guide is for replacing the metal power and lock button cover, not the electronic switch itself.

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Edit Step 1 Rear Panel  ¶ 

  • Before disassembling your iPhone, be sure it is powered off.

  • Your iPhone 4 rear cover may have either two #000 Phillips screws or Apple's 5-Point "Pentalobe" screws (second image). Check which screws you have, and ensure you also have the correct screwdriver in order to remove them.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe or Phillips #000 screws next to the dock connector.

  • During reassembly, we recommend you replace the 5-point screws with equivalent Phillips screws. Our Liberation Kit provides the tools and screws needed to replace the Pentalobe screws with Phillips screws.

  • The 5-Point Screwdriver should only be used once, as it has the potential to strip the screws.

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Push the rear panel toward the top edge of the iPhone.

  • The panel will move about 2 mm.

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Pinch the rear panel with your fingers and lift it away from the iPhone. Alternatively, use a Small Suction Cup .

  • Be careful not to damage the plastic clips attached to the rear panel.

  • If you are installing a new rear panel, be sure to remove the plastic protective sticker from the inside of the camera lens and the sticker from the large black area near the lens.

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Edit Step 4 Battery  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 2.5 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

    • Some devices may have two screws, one of which holds down the contact pad which is located above the screw indicated in red in the photo.

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break it entirely.

  • Remove the metal clip covering the antenna connector.

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Use the clear plastic pull tab to gently lift the battery out of the iPhone.

  • Do not remove the plastic tab from the iPhone.

  • You may need to use a plastic opening tool to loosen the adhesive under the battery.

  • Remove the contact clip from the iPhone.

  • Before reconnecting the battery connector, be sure the contact clip (shown in red) is properly positioned next to the battery connector.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the pressure contact as well as its contact point on the rear panel with a de-greaser such as windex. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.

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Edit Step 7 Logic Board  ¶ 

  • Use a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip to eject the SIM card and its holder.

  • This may require a significant amount of force.

  • Remove the SIM card and its holder.

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Remove the following two screws:

    • One 1.2 mm Phillips

    • One 1.6 mm Phillips

  • Remove the thin steel dock connector cable cover from the iPhone.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the dock connector cable cover with a de-greaser such as windex. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Use an iPod opening tool to gently pry the dock cable connector up off the logic board from both short ends of the connector.

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Carefully peel the dock ribbon cable off the logic board and the lower speaker enclosure.

  • Do not use excessive force to peel the dock ribbon cable off the logic board. Doing so may tear the cable.

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Use an iPod opening tool to pry the lower antenna connector up off its socket on the logic board.

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Remove the 1.9 mm Phillips screw securing the bottom of the logic board to the inner case.

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Remove the following five screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna to to the logic board:

    • One 2.3 mm Phillips

    • Two 1.6 mm Phillips

    • One 1.4 mm Phillips

    • One 4.8 mm Phillips

  • When re-assembling, start off with replacing the 4.8 mm Philips screw first, then the 2.3 mm. This is to ensure there is no mix-up, and avoid rendering the LCD and digitizer useless.

  • Also make sure to put the long 4.8 mm Philips back in correctly when reassembling. This is the ground for the Wi-Fi antenna and is often the culprit if you are having bad Wi-Fi reception after reassembly.

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Use an iPod opening tool to slightly lift the top edge of the Wi-Fi antenna away from the logic board.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the Wi-Fi retaining clips away from the inner frame.

  • Remove the Wi-Fi antenna from the iPhone. Make sure you don't lose the metal clips on the top of the cover where the 4.8mm screw attaches or the 4.8mm screw. That's the primary reason for abnormal Wi-Fi performance after the reassembly.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the connector cover with a de-greaser such as Windex. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues. Do not clean the connectors themselves with Windex.

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Use an iPod opening tool to carefully lift the rear camera connector up off its socket on the logic board.

  • Remove the rear camera.

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Remove the small circular white sticker (warranty sticker and water indicator) covering the screw near the battery pull tab.

  • Remove the 2.4 mm Phillips screw that was hidden underneath the sticker.

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently pry the following connectors up and out of their sockets on the logic board:

    • Digitizer cable (pry from bottom)

    • LCD cable (pry from bottom)

    • Headphone jack/volume button cable (pry from top)

    • Top Microphone/sleep button cable (pry from top)

    • Front camera cable (pry from top)

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the 4.8 mm standoff near the headphone jack.

  • When reassembling the device, this standoff sets the height of the Wi-Fi shield removed in step 13. If not torqued down, the shield will be above the plane of the frame and the back will not slide into place in step 2. The shield should be flush with the headphone jack.

  • When reassembling the motherboard, ensure that its edge sits under the circled standoff, otherwise the screws will not fit.

  • When reassembling ensure that the small rubber spacer attached to the top of the motherboard is in place. Without this part the motherboard could damage the ribbon cables around it.

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Carefully remove the logic board from the iPhone, minding any cables that may get caught.

    • Be careful not to damage the small gold prong (marked in red, near the top) as it's very fragile.

  • On reassembly, be careful not to trap the lower antenna cable beneath the logic board.

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Edit Step 20 Front Facing Camera  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to lift the thin steel front camera retainer off the front camera.

  • Remove the front camera retainer.

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Carefully lift the front facing camera out of the iPhone.

  • It may be helpful to use tweezers to reinstall the front camera retainer.

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Edit Step 22 Power & Lock Button  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 1.5 mm Phillips screws securing the power button bracket to the outer case.

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Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Carefully lift the power button bracket out of the outer case, minding its thin and delicate ribbon cable.

  • The power button bracket is made of very weak cast aluminum and is easily cracked. Handle with caution.

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Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Use a pair of tweezers to remove the power & lock button from the iPhone.

  • During reassembly, take note of the correct orientation of the power button. The metal loop should be facing downwards and the outward edges should be on top.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iPhone 4 device page.

Required Tools

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Flathead 3/32" or 2.5 mm Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Tweezers

$6.95 · 50+ In stock

Plastic Opening Tools

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

Instructions are not detailed enough. No idea how to get the buton to "click". No notes about this nor any picture - fail.

Jonas, · Reply

cant get the button to work it doesnt click when you press it the screws are tight and it just bends the middle of the plastic bit when you press it HELP PLEASE !!!

declan,

The guide was okay, until now!

Why isn't there shown how to install a new button?

alexander, · Reply

Same problem - can't get the button to "click".

Manda, · Reply

i need help with the clicking. it seems like no one ever answered but does the swing bar on the button go in a certain position or is it just the orange part that makes the clicks?

josh, · Reply

swing bar should be on the front side of the phone

keefe lobb,

how do i install the button so that it works ???

kinda left me hanging on this.

cplape, · Reply

If your power button doesn't click it isn't the button itself, it is a small brass dome (for lack of a better word) that is under the button and attached to the electrical cables. Search for proximity sensor on eBay. Cost is around $4.

You will need to follow these instructions as well as remove the earpiece speaker, and partially remove the headphone jack (be VERY careful not to pull hard on those wires). The wiring for the power button/proximity sensor goes underneath the earpiece speaker and sticks to the very small hole right next to the headphone jack. You can also just replace the little dome piece if you can find one.

Nick, · Reply

I am having the same problem as others report, where button does not 'click'. External button seems fine, but so does orange dome. If I depress orange dome with fingernail, it firmly clicks and then bounces back. It seems like perhaps the physical button isn't pushing far enough into the phone to activate the electronic button. I thought perhaps there was a missing piece inbetween the two that gave the button leverage, but no one mentions that and I see no spare pieces floating around inside my phone. Perhaps the electronic button (orange dome) is broken enough for the physical button not to be able to depress it, but not completely inoperable?

I'm tempted to add something in between the two (clear nail polish?) to narrow the connection. I don't mind buying the proximity sensor and doing this procedure again, but I'd like to have some confidence that it will work before doing so and right now, I don't have that.

Hmmm...

stephenthompson, · Reply

I added a bit of rubber (from rubber band) to the bottom of power button and it was enough to make the necessary contact with electronic dome button. Not high tech, but it works, and I'm still not sure if a new part would have been any better. It's possible the specs on this are so narrow that once the button looses contact, there's no way to get it back without a spacer.

stephenthompson,

I think the bracket gets bent slightly after enough use so that the external button doesn't make contact anymore. I used your idea of sticking a piece of rubber band under the button and everything works now. Thanks for your solution!

ws47,

My "brass dome" still clicked when I pressed it so I used a bit of paper folded to be the size of the metal circle at the bottom of the bottom, roughly 15% larger than the "brass dome". I used the paper from a bank check. It was a strip and folder 3 or 4 times. I started thick and reassembled the button with the screws and tried different number of folds until the button clicked without being always pressed when the screws where back on.

Andres Canella,

I'm having trouble as well, on knowing how to position the bar of the silver lock button; or if I just leave it down. When I put it in and I press on it, after installing all the screws for the plate, it just is stuck. Doesn't go in it's just there and moves a little bit; I wanted to know if that's because I didn't position the bar right, or if the silver lock button just isn't making enough contact with the orange dome ( which i guess technically is the real lock button)? I've checked the two screws that I screwed in to the plate, to see if that might have been the problem, they were tight and the orange dome seemed to be close enough to make contact with the silver button; still the button would be stuck in the same immovable position making no contact with the orange dome. I assumed that there must have been a certain position that the bar must be in, so I came here, read the instruction. Very, detailed in how to take the Iphone apart, and helpful, but kind of left me in the dark, to fend for my self. HELP.

Anthony, · Reply

When putting the Power/on/off Botton back in. Which way does the flat thin bar go and which way does the wire loop or spring go?

seafish46767, · Reply

hi man

the holder will be down and the handle will be up.. its easy try it..

see ya

Matrook,

THANKS ALLOT .. I FIX 2 things together WIFI + power button.

thnx again !!!

grate job ^^

Matrook, · Reply

My method for keeping screws organized is to take a piece of cardboard and write each step number and details about the part (size, color on diagram, location, etc). Then I punch a small dent in the cardboard (through one half of the corrugation) to make a small pocket to put the screw in. As long as you don't knock the whole piece of cardboard over, it works great.

unjunk, · Reply

l just buy it at

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iPhone 3GS Display Assembly

iPhone 3GS Dock Connector

iPhone 3G and 3GS Volume Button

Recommend that you visit this site!Low Price and Free Shipping!

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enjoyxiao, · Reply

I wrote detailed instructions on how to get your power button to CLICK again, based on this great tutorial.

Find it here: http://www.krekr.nl/content/tiny-problem...

Let me know what you guys think!

gregorvanegdom, · Reply

Wow, thanks!

jvalaamo,

Yes true, after replacing the power button , the new one doesn't 'click' as it should ;-(

nathanmike, · Reply

Help! What is this tiny part? Can't find a place for it anywhere!?

http://tinypic.com/r/2vai03l/5

thank you to anyone who can help out...

micaela n, · Reply

General guide - Micaela, look at the image in Step 5 of Contact Clip Replacement.

Help! What is this tiny part? Can't find a place for it anywhere!?

thank you to anyone who can help out...

micaela n, Sep 20

Trevor, · Reply

I just replaced Home Button and Power cable. After i realized, that the digitizer cable was folded when assembling the LCD I dismantled it and assembled it again. As of now I have problems with touchscreen sensitivity and accuracy. The rubber piece is assembled on the logic board underneeth the digiztizer and LCD flex cable. Anyone has similar experience or any suggestions? Thanks for advice.

alex, · Reply

There is a much easier way to fix a "dead" power switch without taking the iPhone apart ... much! See the video, and my comments here:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BDNRic3Ht...

ozarkana, · Reply

the part that's replaced here, the metal part of the button leading to the outside of the phone was not the problem. A friend of mine bought a new one, I wondered what could be broken here, it looked like the old one and has no spring or any moving part relevant for the function. If your button doesn't click, then the push-button on the inner side is the problem. You can change this one or, because it's just bent too much (that was my problem) you can glue something onto it, so it pushes deeper to reach the inner push button. I used a cut out small piece of two layers of sticky tape, that was enough. I must not be too thick and not too thin. Here's an image, the red part is the sticky tape: http://de.tinypic.com/r/2hqv3n4/5

moony, · Reply

Caution: New phones may contain T1 screw heads instead of Phillips.

ajg35, · Reply

any news on those screwdrivers? where can we buy them?

grze,

using something like the 18-compartment tray will GREATLY help with this one; there are over a dozen groups of parts. For re-assembly having a digital calipers to measure the 2.4 vs the 2.6mm screws also helps greatly.

awr, · Reply

My method for hardware management during delicate phone surgery is to take and print out on 8.5"x11' paper, one or more pictures of the open phone in various stages of disassembly, and then tape the screws to the appropriate spots on the pictures. Also write numbers on the pictures next the screws to indicate the order in which you removed them.

lens42,

I did a successful surgery on my iPhone, be warned this is not for the faint of heart!

I've done iPod screen replacements, battery replacements, this is by far much more difficult and intricate.

Great write up! Thanks a million.

Jaysen Strange, · Reply

Couldn't even get both screws out of the bottom of the case. One was easy and other refuses to budge. Screws so small I can't see if it is turning or screw driver is properly seated. Sad I too have done screen replacements on other phones. Don't know any secrets to get the screw out

ckracht, · Reply

I also have a problem with seeing what is happening with some of those tiny little screws and parts. For other projects that I do, I use an Opti-Visor. It slips over your head and provides 10x magnification. ( You can find them on Amazon).

Yeah, it adds cost to the project and you would have to wait for delivery, but it sure makes a world of difference in seeing what you are working with / on.

jhow,

On an early iPhone 4 I found that the #000 Phillips bit included in the 54 Bit Driver Kit didn't actually fit the screws. However the JIS #000 also in the kit did fit quite well. This is due to the JIS bits "thinner" design to prevent camming out of the slot. Otherwise everything went well. Looking forward to replacing the battery in my other phone that has the pentalobe screws. Glad I got the 54 Bit kit!

etler, · Reply

Use a vacuum duster and a sharp tool to pry out the dust, this can increase the volume insanely!

Dpairs, · Reply

At the very last second before insertion, the second new screw for the bottom popped out of my pliers! I dont' want to use the old ones, but I don't want to leave it with one screw. Can I get a replacement screw?

Otherwise it went together fine, and I figured out for myselkf that the contact needs to be bent,,,

loujudson, · Reply

What does the park that is gold and next to the 4.8mm screw for the antenna? Looks like I am missing that part and almost positive that is why I can't pick up or connect to any wifi signals. I have the screw and the antenna from another phone that is working and tried it on the broken phone and still doesn't work. Only thing different is that gold metal piece to the left of that 4.8 mm screw. Can I buy that part? how do I attach it?

Jay Pennington, · Reply

not able to unscrew

Naved Zaidi, · Reply

using suction cup with too much force breaks rear panel

lily einstein, · Reply

Remove the single 2.5 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board- for me this Phillips screw won't budge from its place have tried all the phillips combinations 000, 00, 0, 1 and the straight /slotted 1.5 mm but nothing. can some help me please purchased a replacement battery for my iPhone 4 but not able to do it just because of this screw.

Naved Zaidi, · Reply

I was going through the take apart and after reassembly, it seems to just sit there an power cycle. It's as though the battery is no longer working. Any thoughts as to what I may have done wrong?

Social Apples, · Reply

Use #000 fine screw driver!!!

bfbogaert, · Reply

Use an #000 fine screw driver to remove two screws from iPhone 4s!

bfbogaert, · Reply

There is a metal bracket that secures the connector, that will be removed before the conector is unfasten

poseido, · Reply

When I used a plastic opening tool to gently disconnect the battery connector from its socket, I accidently remove the socket too.. Now what? :( ......

odisseas, · Reply

Stuck on step 4 can't unscrew the battery screw. stopped trying as all i seem to be doing is damaging the screw any tips as to how to approach this?

Tazziii, · Reply

my phone doesnt have a screw that connects the battery to the logic bored...is that a problem?

sadie, · Reply

I didn't need to remove the battery !! why would you take the battery away, the motor can be removed easily with the battery in place, and the whole process would take less than 2 minutes if you exclude the battery steps

Mohammed Fahmy, · Reply

I have trouble with the screw: I bought my used and now opened it for the first time. The screw is totally messed up, I can't unscrew it because the screwdriver doesn't fit in the screw/doesn't unscrew it. What can I do?

dfrisch86, · Reply

Installed new battery without a problem. Now it does not hold a charge for more than 4 hours. Phone works fine but what did I do wrong?

Mary OBrien, · Reply

There is a small black L-shaped bracket of some sort that tits between the battery connector and the motherboard socket, with a loop on one corner that sits betwen the riserand the battery connector. Remove this now, and do not forget to re install it on assembly.

stevesontheroad, · Reply

When reattaching this bracket make sure your Battery ribbon is already tucked underneath the battery with only the minimum clearance required. Then make sure the brackets overhang is over the battery ribbon. Dont try to slide it under the Ribbon.

crimney, · Reply

In Step 5 be EXTRA careful with the battery connector as the socket can come off extremely easy. This can mess up the replacement a little bit and cost you extra. Otherwise, this guide is excellent.

Good luck, fixers!

I fix(ed) it!

mateuszkus, · Reply

Just be careful when removing the battery with the plastic pull tab. On some units, they use so much glue that it's virtually impossible to take the battery.

In such an instance, you could use the iPod opening tool to assist (just be careful where you stick it!)

klubn, · Reply

use the iPod opening tool to pry gently under the battery from the outer edge of the phone and work towards the plastic tab. the tab is not actually attached to the battery itself, but a plastic sheet between the battery and inner frame. the adhesive on the battery tends to be under the edge of the battery nearest the center of the phone.

David Iwanicki, · Reply

Understand that the plastic pull tab is part of the phone. It sits under the battery like a tray and is not connected to the battery so it needs to stay in tact.

mattcfi, · Reply

once the iphone restarted, the battery was at 30%.

baldus, · Reply

This i think is the most diffucult part.

Because they use so much glue on it. I have to did this with so much force.

Glad that i didn't kill the circuit board when i took this out.

Shoung0690, · Reply

My battery was so firmly glued in, it took a long time to slowly pry it loose. Patience is the key to this process. I could see easily damaging the circuit board by using too much force. The plastic tab did not help at all.

The ribbon cable attaching the new battery to the battery connector clip is longer than the original. I clicked the clip into the socket first and then was very careful to fold the excess while putting the battery back in so the ribbon cable didn't kink. One kink in this could sever the battery leads.

drathbun, · Reply

My ribbon cable was also longer than the original. How did you get it to not kink while placing the batter back into the phone? That seems to be my only hang up at the moment

cvbaseballsean22,

Piece of cake! The hardest part was being sure the outer pentalobe screws were actually turning and I wasn't stripping them. Battery was glued firmly in, so I loosened it from the outside instead of using the plastic pull-tab. I pre-bent the battery connector neck before putting it back in and had no problems with it fitting in. Getting the battery connector aligned with the antenna piece underneath was a bit fiddly. Got the case back on, put in the new screws, and powered the phone on without problem. Had 40% charge, all seems well. Yippee!

chezbuttons, · Reply

Do NOT use a spudger or similar type of prising tool to try lift up the battery. Instead, just warm up the whole area with a hot air gun or hair drier to soften the glue.

The reason why I say don't use an implement to try lift the battery is because far too many times I've seen punctured & bent batteries come in to this workshop that have to be thrown out for safety reasons. It only takes a grain of sand, or a burr on the spudger and you're risking a potential cell rupture and potential fire.

Just use a bit of heat ( not a lot! ) to soften up the glue and it'll come away with the plastic pull tab.

Paul L Daniels, · Reply

These instructions don't mention putting the 2.5mm screw back in. I found this very challenging because it is so short, so very difficult to line it up to get it back in the hole, and very easy to drop it inside the phone. Take care.

robshopping, · Reply

Non problem with reassembly - just took patience - my is that the phone now does not want to charge the battery. It shows taht the battery is dead and charger needs to be connected but does not charge?

What have I not done coreectly - or at least what can I check to determine the problem?

Thanks

Richard Bebee, · Reply

The grey cable on the top right of the 1st picture might be confusing, it's the connector with cable which you'll disconnect in step 9 only, so you can't see it this way in this phase.

mhejjas, · Reply

Be careful to make sure you don't pinch the clear plastic tab under the mobo when reinstalling. :P

jonathan, · Reply

Box 3 BOx 3 Box 3 petite vis a gauche

bigben8, · Reply

I had trouble with my SIM card at this point. It wouldn't go all the way in - only about 1mm short but enough to keep the phone from being able to read it. It seems that the red screw in this step is the culprit. I loosened it up a bit and the SIM card tray was able to fit flush.

budgetbooksfl, · Reply

Use the 1.6mm screw standoff as leverage against to lift the connector.

Mark, · Reply

Make sure not to pry too much under the flex cable because you will likely damage the gold / silver shining adhesive tape that is located beneath it.

The guide is missing a comment on this and one would not expect the tape there. Check out the photos of step 10 to get an idea of how the tape looks like.

I assume this to be some kind of head-conductive component.

It won't be much of a problem if you damage parts of it though.

But if you peel off / coil up too much of it, it could get too big and the flex cable could get damaged when it's pressed against it.

Stefan, · Reply

be extremely careful to check that there isnt any metallic conductive glue sticking, some may remain attached to the motherboard-connecter position in its space on top of the logicboard

Dai, · Reply

So if that glue does stick to the 'motherboard', does it damage the phone?

Dalton , · Reply

NOTE: When replacing the logic board, be sure this antenna remains exposed and doesn't become trapped under the board.

charlesholt, · Reply

Just wondering if it is possible and where to get one of those indicators

edward, · Reply

what are you talking about here???

Steven Munoz, · Reply

Yeah, would like to know the value of the little blue inductor ... my iPhone 4 doesn't have it any more and I have the worst signal.

PressureFM, · Reply

I wasn't sure how to carefully detach the antennae. Can anyone offer some insight on how to reattach the antennae? Is it supposed to be soldered to the board? Or is it a pin attachment?

kulpsterdaman, · Reply

see that tiny little blue thing just to the left of the antenna connector but before the screw? make sure you DON'T knock that out of place otherwise your iphone becomes a heavy ipod touch (yes. this idiot made that mistake while struggling to get the antenna connector back in - which for the record just clips back in). this would have been a handy tip for me while i was reading the instructions, which apart from that little trinket of information, were very easy to follow.

-dan

dan, · Reply

Be careful, I almost damaged this specific screw by using a Phillips #00 screwdriver. It's screwed in tighter than most others. You will need a Phillips #000 or else your #00 has to be a really sharp one.

Kelvin Leong, · Reply

The cross on top of the screw on my phone is all messed up - not from me stripping it, it just looks like a manufacturing error. The screwdriver won't even fit into the screw, and I can't get it out (I have no idea how they got it in in the first place). Any suggestions?

Mike Machado, · Reply

same here, screw stripped any suggestions?

Gary Woodward,

Couple of ways to get rounded-out-head screws;

1) use a tiny drop of super glue on the top place your screwdriver on the drop/screw, then sprinkle a bit of bicarb-soda on to the wet super glue, it'll harden very rapidly and form a fillet; wait a minute and you should be able to then unscrew the screw.

Be VERY CAREFUL when doing this, because you don't want to have superglue wicking between the screw and the circuit board.

Perhaps practice on some other things first.

I've removed several like this before; frequently I find the culprits for rounded out slots are ham-fisted people trying to do their own repairs in the past.

Paul L Daniels, · Reply

Get a set of these precision screw extractors. I own a small electronics repair shop and I wouldn't be without them. If you buy them remember that the ends are reversible in case you dull one end. http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Precision-Sc...

Joshua, · Reply

Be careful about the very small spring contact that is under the shield and around the 4.8 mm screw - it can spring out when the shield is removed. It must be reinserted prior to installing the shield, with the thick part up and the spring in contact with the gold pad to the right of the screw hole in the case.

Steve Noland, · Reply

INCREDIBLE! Steve this probably happens to people all the time. The "very small spring contact that is under the shield and around the 4.8 mm screw" I will elaborate on. It's not so much around the 4.8mm screw as it actually part of the assembly where the 4.8 mm screw is tightened. I added an arrow to this picture to visually illustrate:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/9/i...

I had no wifi at all until this was present. I had overlooked the piece and spent hours trying to figure out where it went. BIG THANK YOU to Steve for his comment. After fixing, my wifi was perfect.

Jimmy,

When re-assembling, start off with replacing the 4.8 mm Philips screw first, then the 2.3 mm. This is to ensure there is no mix-up, and avoid rendering the LCD and digitizer useless. Steve or someone -- can you explain what is meant by this? My LCD and digitizer now does not work, but I don't think I have any screws in the wrong place.

david,

I have the same issue than David. Could anyone elaborate on the brief note in the manual? Thank you!

Christoph Biehl,

There is a washer under the plate that is held together by the 1.4mm Philips. This might come loose. Be careful not to lose it.

nsolis, · Reply

Confirming this. It's not in the description and it came out when I disconnected the screw. At first I was unsure where it came from, but when I reassembled the phone, the yellow screw didn't make contact, so I realized the washer had to go under the contact plate.

marcx77,

So that small washer behind the 1.4 screw became detached during reassembly. What affect does this have? My phOne started to overheat; I then turned off my wifi and things are fine.. How is this related you think?

mallorypichler,

If a nut under the YELLOW screw is rotating, hold the nut with tweezers.

yujin yamada, · Reply

Somehow i twisted the head off of the 4.8mm screw (ground) during reassembly and not i have terrible wifi. Trying to come up with a solution.... any suggestions?

racaruso90, · Reply

On my phone the "washer" that the 1.4mm screw goes into I think is actually the mounting post that had come detached. I realize afterwards there was therefore no point removing this screw, but I did remove (and put it back afterwards) by holding onto the loose post/washer with tweezers to prevent it turning.

Anthony Berkow, · Reply

Print this image out (step 13) - trust me, you'll need it later!

Alan Shenton, · Reply

The "washer" that a few of the commenters have mentioned isn't a washer nor a broken post. It is a circular nut that helps the WiFi antenna get a good connection to the logic board. It is part of a sandwich: 1.4mm screw head WiFi antenna logic board ++ circular nut. I held it in place with tweezers and then screwed the 1.4mm screw in. Don't lose this nut!

tdroz, · Reply

I found that the 1.4 mm screw measured a little less than 1.1 mm on my phone. So don't be confused by that.

Daniel, · Reply

When I came to reassemble at this step, I noticed the 1.4mm screw no longer had anything to screw to. The nut or washer or whatever it is that you mention has gone. My screen does not work any more. Is this connected and/or is there anything I can do to peplace what is lost?

Chris, · Reply

This screw is supposed to tie into a very small nut that sits under a small u-shaped tab in the EMI shield that is fixed to the PCB. Maybe that nut has moved or got lost. I recommend you to lift that small tab to find it because if loose it could create a short-circuit.

But that screw/nut is absolutely not essential to the LCD. It should work without it.

Christophe De Wolf,

watch for the connector cover here - it tends to be quite "springy" and may fly towards you when you attempt to release the clips

David Iwanicki, · Reply

What do these metal clips look like?

ryanporter, · Reply

Be Careful of a tiny metal piece attached to the black bit on top that acts as the screw spot for the blue screw. I just slid it back on. Hopefully no harm done.

crimney, · Reply

do you have a photo or description?

David Holmes,

The clip actually looks like it might be a ground. it's gold and is folded in two. There's a screw cutout and something that looks like it physically is supposed to touch something. Phone works fine without it, though.

stores, · Reply

the rear camera has an extra long tab which runs under the digitizer cable - be careful not to bend this while removing the camera.

David Iwanicki, · Reply

To avoid damaging the Main Camera, it will probably be better to do Step 18 first before doing this step. This is because part of the camera is actually under the Digitizer and LCD cable.

nsolis, · Reply

There was no screw underneath the warranty sticker or even a place for a screw. Disappointed.

Ed Wiliams, · Reply

I removed by accident the other white sticker on the logic board. What happens now? Will the phone work?

Vit Rozehnal, · Reply

It won't hurt anything.

Joshua,

What are these types of connectors called? anyone know where to order just the connectors? or even better would be extension cables

Chris, · Reply

blue, green and yellow down, orange and red up. red BEFORE orange, as part of the ribbon is UNDER red.

unklbyl

unklbyl, · Reply

Windex didn't work well for me for degreasing the connections. It made the connections worse in fact. Now my digitizer AND my screen don't work.

johnpetraborg, · Reply

It seems that you misunderstood the notes throughout the guide. You should only clean metal to metal contact points, such as the contact area between the EMI fingers and the metal case on the speaker enclosure. Applying Windex in connectors or sockets of any type will almost certainly destroy components in your phone.

Andrew Bookholt,

when i was replacing the logic board a small gold piece came off. It is above the top left corner of the orange box for the LCD cable. What is it for?

romaine, · Reply

If you are replacing any of the cables that connect here, be sure to save the foam from the top of the connector to put on your replacement part. It helps secure the connector once the connector cover is put back during reassembly.

Blarg, · Reply

When re-plugging the yellow connector (the leftmost of the 3 connectors that you disconnected from the top) put the cables behind and not before the metal part with a hole where the EMI Shield 2 clips in. Otherwise you will not be able do step 13.

Philippe Leledy, · Reply

Be carefull of a very small component soldered near the yellow connector. It can pop off and make your front camera irresponsive.

Christophe De Wolf, · Reply

When reassembling, the various connectors have a leading plastic lip that allows you to align and then slowly snap in place. i pushed on the pads on top of the connectors with the flat tool provided in the kit. Also, the first time, i did not press the LCD cable very well, so the phone was working, but no display showing. once i snapped this in place the second time, it worked like a charm.

hansiemys, · Reply

After reassembly, when I changed to the front camera, the display got stuck in shutter mode. The website bellow suggests I lost a microscopic jumper that enables the front camera. I am guessing this happened when I disconnected the 3 connectors. The dang jumper is so small I never even noticed that I lost it. Oh well at least the rear camera still works... http://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/54838...

Slobird, · Reply

I ran into a not workin front camera after a screen replacement on Iphone4. I found out that I had broken the tiny jumper on the main board when I pried off the headphone plug. That jumper is next to the right upper corner of the headphone/volume button plug (yellow marked in step 17 of relacement guide), you can see it in the picture as two silvery dots. If your prying tool sits on that jumper when levelling the plug off, it is history. I took a ampoule of conducting silver liquid, but instead of shaking it I took some of the sediment out with a thin wire and aplied a tiny blob over the two remaining soldering pads left. And alas, it worked ! Front camera is ok again. Thanks to those who found out about that jumper.

dl7utx, · Reply

There is a small rectangular rubber bumper on the top of the logic board. You can see it a little at the top of the picture. I knocked mine off and had no idea where it came from! Took my wife forever searching the pictures to locate where it was from.

nickbits, · Reply

Take care to put the small ruber piece into place to protect the ribon cable for the lcd dyplay

Hanspeter, · Reply

The smallest screw below the Digitizer connector is held by a tiny nut which is fixed below the EMI shield. Beware because this thing can get loose easily.

mcbohdo, · Reply

I believe that's the one he's referring to...

Joshua,

Image of rectangular rubber piece

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/835/i...

Rajan, · Reply

Thank you Rajan for this picture. The rubber piece fell out and i was frantically trying to find its spot.

hansiemys,

Yes! Thanks for this pic! I found this little piece in the body of the phone after I removed the logic board and was stumped! Real lifesaver!

Joshua,

how do i remove the 4.8 mm stand off? ifixit instructions arent detailed enough.

Austin, · Reply

I have found that the easiest way to remove these standoffs is to loosen them with a 2.0 or 2.3 mm standard (flat) blade driver bit. Then, once it is loose, you can either loosen it the rest of the way, or for better control, insert your pentalobe driver into the center of it and loosen it the rest of the way. If your pentalobe driver won't turn it, then it is not loose enough, or the end of one of the small screws has broken off in it (actually fairly common).

Best of luck to you! Just ask if you need more info!

Joshua,

When reassembling, ensure the ribbon cables for the connector are between the silver metal and the circuit board. the wifi antenna plate clips into the silver metal.

Victor, · Reply

Note where the little rubber thing is. It's there to protect the digitizer and LCD ribbons curving over the top of the mobo. If you do these a lot, you're going to have a WTF moment when you go to put it back together and you have this short rubber strip....

jonathan, · Reply

where can i buy logic board from the iPhone

jamie, · Reply

be careful when putting the logic board back in: i trapped the lower antenna cable under it (see step 11). Also, it 'hooks in' at the top and rotates down; there is a notch cut into the outer case to capture the top of the motherboard.

awr, · Reply

Missing rubber guard can causing touchscreen sensitivity & accuracy problem.

Otniel Yoreiza, · Reply

Do not forget the rubber piece. When replacing my home button, I noticed this rubber piece fall out of the phone, and couldn't figure out where it went. I left it out, and my touchscreen had all sorts of problem. I thought I had damaged the digitizer ribbon. I even bought a new screen and had similar problems after putting that in. I finally put a makeshift piece of rubber that I cut up into the spot where this rubber piece had gone, and currently haven't had problems for over a week. This rubber piece must suppress interference problems of some kind.

dreyna, · Reply

Great point! I had the logic board put back in and then found this little thing hanging out. I found a "tip" on a different site that showed it going between the rear-facing camera and the logic board! Thanks!

Joshua,

Can we get a better photo of where rubber piece goes? Mine fell off, and I have no idea where to put it back on to.

csuslog, · Reply

It goes on the edge of the logic board where the Digitizer and LCD Panel ribbon cables bend over the Logic Board before they plug into it. The rubber piece protects the ribbon cables from chafing like a bumper and from interferance.

fasthans,

You can see it on the upper left of the Logic Board, just to the right of the camera in the photo for Step 18. It is easier to see if you click on the view huge link to blow up the photo.

fasthans,

Note that when re-installing the logic board, do not forget about the antenna connector near the bottom of the phone. Make sure that it does not get trapped under the logic board when you are placing the logic board in the case.

Scott, · Reply

Ear piece metal connectors: You can see them on step 22. If those are not bent up enough (laying flat) you won't have contact with the logic board... and no more audio from the ear piece. This is what happened to me. I had to unmount it again to bend them and hop the ear piece worked again!

chuvux, · Reply

This was a very tricky part. Just make sure that you don't put pressure on the login board to get it into place, take your time and ease it in. There will be a bit of spring in it when you push down which is a combination of the folded LCD and Digitizer Ribbon Cables and the two copper contacts underneath.

gregjames, · Reply

This was absolutely the hardest part - had to do it over many times. The digitizer ribbon cable kept insisting on folding up under the logic board. Tip: do not let the cable fold up, even it that's how it naturally wants to go, it will be too short.

Julian Boilen, · Reply

I found it easier to remove the camera after removing the headphone jack. The right side of the retainer was refusing to come off.

Patricia Z, · Reply

Can someone please explain why you take the front camera out? It is on the opposite side of the power button, and not in the way. Am I missing something?

Anthony, · Reply

My screen is kaing really funny lines now and the phone doesnt come on. I dont know if i out the little gold thingy back correctly though, need help please!!!

Wesley Barnes, · Reply

This step is completely unnecessary- you don't need to remove the camera if you need to install the headphone jack part. The cables don't even overlap.

Daniel Maloney, · Reply

Agreed, this step is not necessary, please remove it from the tutorial!

Arthur, · Reply

I agree, steps 20 and 21 are completely useless. In fact I found it hard to remove the metal cover, so just skipped it, seeing that it shouldn't affect the button. And it didn't. I also think these steps should be removed not to cause the confusion.

Daria, · Reply

Yes the camera does not need to be taken out. It can stay in. Removing the metal camera clip is a pain. This is the step that took me the longest and would have saved me an hour if I didn't have to do it. If you do take the clip off and take the camera out can you put a higher resolution camera in? Anyway when putting the clip back the clip arms/legs go on the outside of the receiving metal slots-NOT ON THE INSIDE. I tried too long to get them to clip on the inside thinking I was doing something wrong.

hubafrost, · Reply

Replacing the right screw is a major pain. I found it helpful to temporarily reinsert the 4.8 mm screw from step 13 into the power switch bracket to help align the holes for the 2 short screws. Even so it took several tries. the ribbon cables in these area keep getting in the way and shouldn't be bent or forced too much.

jamietedeschi, · Reply

At this step i think is easier to remove the screen alltogether to acoid damage un the ribbon cables

igorgruszecki, · Reply

I'm looking at my new wake/sleep/power button/sensor/ribbon and there appears to be a black pad over the proximity sensor. Not sure if it's a protective cover or if it is actually supposed to be on there. Anyone know?

powers74, · Reply

Dealing with the right screw is really a pain in the *^#... I think it's quite easy to damage the ribbon cables covering it.

Daria, · Reply

These instructions are inaccurate: they say the screws are both 1.5mm, but the left-hand one is longer than the right-hand one. If you try and replace them swapped, the left one won't engage.

Daniel Brauer, · Reply

When I replaced a lock button cable for someone I looked long and hard before I figured out what the problem was. The little dome clicked just fine, but for some reason the lock button would not work. As I compared the broken one to the new one I had purchased I finally noticed that there was a little nipple on the dome of the new one. Just big enough to make a difference. I think a drop of epoxy on top of the dome would fix the lock button just fine. If you make it too big, the lock button will always be pressed so be careful.

Rene Jeddore, · Reply

Lock button was fine just not making contact. I ended up using a lot of different materials but what worked for me was part of a rubber band supper glued to that contact circle. Its been working well for quite some time now, I hope it helps!

Radu Borzea, · Reply

This guide its not whel done. you should remove screen to replace the power button, the lcd flex cracks

Hernan Sananes, · Reply

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