iPhone 4 Home Button Replacement

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Removing the home button and its cover.

Use this guide to replace a damaged home button to regain use of your iPhone.

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Edit Step 1 Rear Panel  ¶ 

  • Before disassembling your iPhone, be sure it is powered off.

  • Your iPhone 4 rear cover may have either two #000 Phillips screws or Apple's 5-Point "Pentalobe" screws (second image). Check which screws you have, and ensure you also have the correct screwdriver in order to remove them.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe or Phillips #000 screws next to the dock connector.

  • During reassembly, we recommend you replace the 5-point screws with equivalent Phillips screws. Our Liberation Kit provides the tools and screws needed to replace the Pentalobe screws with Phillips screws.

  • The 5-Point Screwdriver should only be used once, as it has the potential to strip the screws.

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Push the rear panel toward the top edge of the iPhone.

  • The panel will move about 2 mm.

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Pinch the rear panel with your fingers and lift it away from the iPhone. Alternatively, use a Small Suction Cup .

  • Be careful not to damage the plastic clips attached to the rear panel.

  • If you are installing a new rear panel, be sure to remove the plastic protective sticker from the inside of the camera lens and the sticker from the large black area near the lens.

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Edit Step 4 Battery  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 2.5 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

    • Some devices may have two screws, one of which holds down the contact pad which is located above the screw indicated in red in the photo.

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break it entirely.

  • Remove the metal clip covering the antenna connector.

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Use the clear plastic pull tab to gently lift the battery out of the iPhone.

  • Do not remove the plastic tab from the iPhone.

  • You may need to use a plastic opening tool to loosen the adhesive under the battery.

  • Remove the contact clip from the iPhone.

  • Before reconnecting the battery connector, be sure the contact clip (shown in red) is properly positioned next to the battery connector.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the pressure contact as well as its contact point on the rear panel with a de-greaser such as windex. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.

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Edit Step 7 Logic Board  ¶ 

  • Use a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip to eject the SIM card and its holder.

  • This may require a significant amount of force.

  • Remove the SIM card and its holder.

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Remove the following two screws:

    • One 1.2 mm Phillips

    • One 1.6 mm Phillips

  • Remove the thin steel dock connector cable cover from the iPhone.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the dock connector cable cover with a de-greaser such as windex. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Use an iPod opening tool to gently pry the dock cable connector up off the logic board from both short ends of the connector.

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Carefully peel the dock ribbon cable off the logic board and the lower speaker enclosure.

  • Do not use excessive force to peel the dock ribbon cable off the logic board. Doing so may tear the cable.

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Use an iPod opening tool to pry the lower antenna connector up off its socket on the logic board.

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Remove the 1.9 mm Phillips screw securing the bottom of the logic board to the inner case.

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Remove the following five screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna to to the logic board:

    • One 2.3 mm Phillips

    • Two 1.6 mm Phillips

    • One 1.4 mm Phillips

    • One 4.8 mm Phillips

  • When re-assembling, start off with replacing the 4.8 mm Philips screw first, then the 2.3 mm. This is to ensure there is no mix-up, and avoid rendering the LCD and digitizer useless.

  • Also make sure to put the long 4.8 mm Philips back in correctly when reassembling. This is the ground for the Wi-Fi antenna and is often the culprit if you are having bad Wi-Fi reception after reassembly.

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Use an iPod opening tool to slightly lift the top edge of the Wi-Fi antenna away from the logic board.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the Wi-Fi retaining clips away from the inner frame.

  • Remove the Wi-Fi antenna from the iPhone. Make sure you don't lose the metal clips on the top of the cover where the 4.8mm screw attaches or the 4.8mm screw. That's the primary reason for abnormal Wi-Fi performance after the reassembly.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the connector cover with a de-greaser such as Windex. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues. Do not clean the connectors themselves with Windex.

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Use an iPod opening tool to carefully lift the rear camera connector up off its socket on the logic board.

  • Remove the rear camera.

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Remove the small circular white sticker (warranty sticker and water indicator) covering the screw near the battery pull tab.

  • Remove the 2.4 mm Phillips screw that was hidden underneath the sticker.

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently pry the following connectors up and out of their sockets on the logic board:

    • Digitizer cable (pry from bottom)

    • LCD cable (pry from bottom)

    • Headphone jack/volume button cable (pry from top)

    • Top Microphone/sleep button cable (pry from top)

    • Front camera cable (pry from top)

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the 4.8 mm standoff near the headphone jack.

  • When reassembling the device, this standoff sets the height of the Wi-Fi shield removed in step 13. If not torqued down, the shield will be above the plane of the frame and the back will not slide into place in step 2. The shield should be flush with the headphone jack.

  • When reassembling the motherboard, ensure that its edge sits under the circled standoff, otherwise the screws will not fit.

  • When reassembling ensure that the small rubber spacer attached to the top of the motherboard is in place. Without this part the motherboard could damage the ribbon cables around it.

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Carefully remove the logic board from the iPhone, minding any cables that may get caught.

    • Be careful not to damage the small gold prong (marked in red, near the top) as it's very fragile.

  • On reassembly, be careful not to trap the lower antenna cable beneath the logic board.

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Edit Step 20 Speaker Enclosure Assembly  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 2.4 mm Phillips screw securing the speaker enclosure to the side of the inner frame.

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Remove the speaker enclosure from the iPhone.

  • Before re-fastening the speaker enclosure to the inner frame, be sure the four small EMI fingers rest below the lip of the LCD frame.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points between the EMI fingers and the internal frame as well as the brass screw mounting point with a de-greaser such as Windex. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.

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Edit Step 22 Display Assembly  ¶ 

  • Remove the following two screws securing the vibrator to the inner frame:

    • One 6 mm Phillips

    • One 1.4 mm Phillips

  • Remove the vibrator from the iPhone.

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Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Remove the 1.5 mm Phillips screw securing the front panel near the headphone jack.

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Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Remove the three large-headed 1.5 mm Phillips screws along the volume button side of the iPhone.

  • Keep track of the washers under each of the screws.

  • Tip: It can be tricky, but it is also possible to just loosen the large-headed 1.5 mm Phillips screws slightly, without having to remove and replace the screw-and-washer set.

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Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Remove the 1.5 mm Phillips screw near the lower microphone.

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Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Remove the 1.5 mm Phillips screw near the dock connector ribbon cable.

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Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • Remove the three large-headed 1.5 mm Phillips screws along the SIM card side of the iPhone.

  • Keep track of the washers under each of the screws.

  • Tip: It can be tricky, but it is also possible to just loosen the large-headed 1.5 mm Phillips screws slightly, without having to remove and replace the screw-and-washer set.

  • Remove the small-headed 1.5 mm Phillips screw near the rear camera.

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Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Carefully insert the edge of an iPod opening tool between the rubber bezel around the front glass panel and the steel inner frame.

  • Do not attempt to insert the tool between the glass and the rubber bezel.

  • Carefully pry the upper edge of the front panel assembly away from the steel inner frame.

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Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • Slowly and gently lift the top edge of the front panel assembly away from the steel inner frame.

  • Continue to rotate the front panel assembly away from the steel inner frame until it slowly begins to peel off the adhesive applied below the home button area.

    • It may be easiest to insert a spudger at the top and work it around the edges, spreading gently as you go.

  • Carefully pull the lower edge of the front panel assembly away from the steel inner frame.

  • Be careful, if the home button sticks to the front panel you may tear the home button cable.

  • Do not flip the front glass completely away from the frame. Doing so may result In damage to the digitizer cable.

  • If the glass is cracked (which it probably is since you're replacing it) removing the panel is likely to cause it to bend, kicking off small shards of glass. Before you do this step, cover the front with clear tape, then perform the actual removal over a trash can. Protective eyewear would also be prudent.

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Edit Step 30  ¶ 

  • De-route the digitizer and LCD cables through the steel inner frame.

  • Before re-fastening the front panel to the steel inner frame, be sure both the LCD and digitizer cables are not folded or pinched between the inner frame and the front panel assembly. This will result in possibly damaging the cables and not having enough slack when reconnecting them to the logic board.

  • When the front panel has been correctly installed both the LCD and digitizer cables should be immediately next to one another and should be the same length and should be just hanging over the steel frame.

  • Ensure that the cables do not get caught between the screen and the frame.

  • When replacing the front panel assembly you must remember that you might have to reuse the earpiece grille and the clear plastic ring around the front facing camera from the old/damaged assembly. This will depend on where you buy the replacement part.

  • After reassembly, protect your new display from any scratches by installing a new screen protector.

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Edit Step 31 Home Button  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of an iPod opening tool or your fingernail to lift the home button ribbon cable retainer.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the cable retainer, not the socket itself.

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Edit Step 32  ¶ 

  • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the home button ribbon cable out of its socket.

  • Do not excessively strain the home button ribbon cable, as it is very thin and delicate. Also, be careful with the two small electronic parts on the ribbon cable. It is very easy to damage them with tweezers.

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Edit Step 33  ¶ 

  • De-route the home button ribbon cable through the inner case and remove the home button from the iPhone.

  • When installing a new part, there may be a protective plastic film on the home button. It can be removed with a spudger or your fingernail.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iPhone 4 device page.

Required Tools

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Flathead 3/32" or 2.5 mm Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Tweezers

$6.95 · 50+ In stock

Plastic Opening Tools

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Related Products

iPhone 4 Home Button Assembly

$14.95 · 50+ In stock

Recommended Tools

Universal Drive Adapter

$29.95 · 50+ In stock

iFixit Lock Pick Set

$29.95 · 50+ In stock

Inspection Scope

$39.95 · 50+ In stock

Frictionless Ratchet

$24.95 · 50+ In stock

Portable Anti-Static Mat

$34.95 · 45 In stock

Comments Comments are onturn off

Utter and complete failure. Followed the directions to a 'T' to replace my home button. Home button works now. Digitizer and screen now only work periodically. Degreased the connections with windex and it only made it worse.

johnpetraborg, · Reply

hey man great tutorial, was wondering if you can make a video?

heres my email adress

dangelo.g@hotmail.co.uk

Thanks

DAngelo, · Reply

Job complete. Took me 2 hours and everything is working as good as new. Excellent guide. The only thing I didn't use was Windex but everything worked fine without it.

pcarr2000, · Reply

I bought a new home button on ebay ..

After disassembling the phone I noticed that they sent me one with a connector that didn't fit ಠ_ಠ

FU!

Note to myself: Check home button BEFORE disassembling the whole phone ..

eltomato, · Reply

I followed this guide slowly and carefully and it worked perfectly, just used tissue instead of windex and everything is fine, saved me £139 that apple wanted to charge me :)

Leigh Ellis, · Reply

iFixit is to commended for this very detailed guide, but you may not need to go through this 30+ step process. Before ripping up your phone, try this simple no-risk fix. It seems to have fixed my button. Maybe it won't last, but it might get me through my contract.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OXlY-Vcxb...

lens42, · Reply

Instructions followed, procedure was a success! A wise tip: use rubber surgeon gloves. No worries about oil and sweat involved. I did it much more confident.

dedargains, · Reply

Just a tip:

To make sure all the small screws goes in the same places they were from the beginning I printed out this guide and taped them to the paper one by one as I went along. Just tape them to the corresponding places in the pictures and you can't go wrong.

Like the author says, if one screw goes in the wrong place it could brake something. (I learned this the hard way on a netbook)

/Glenn from Sweden

Glenn Feldt, · Reply

I second the advice about wearing surgical gloves. I did the whole thing without a glitch, phone working perfectly.

Fact is that this is a advanced procedure, be warned to have a lot of patience and self controll/discipline.

Tarik, · Reply

This is not a procedure for people without patience, and steady hands.

But if you have them both, then go ahead and fix your phone by your self and save a bucket of money.

I worked like a charm, and didn't have to use windex for anything. Used the tongs that were send to me to grab everything so I barely touched the insides of the phone.

Thank you guys so much.

I will see you the next time something needs fixing.

ialex3, · Reply

Everything looks fine after 31+31 steps and 4 hours. Pay attention on reassembly step 30, make sure that all cabes are in the correct position before steps 29 and 28.

Flavio Furlan, · Reply

This guide was excellent. I managed to replace the home button no problems. You just need to look at the images of which you can blow up "excellent" and do as indicated.

I made a map on a piece of paper indicating where each item went so when putting it all back it was easy. Thanks for this guide I can finally enjoy the ease of using my home button once more.

Luca, · Reply

Used this guide to replace a home button on my iPhone 4 which stopped working after the iPhone was out in the rain for 30 minutes. Worked like a charm. It was very hard but I took my time. Unfortunately, it didn't fix my problem. Upon further research, the dock connector was the culprit. It is where the home button plugs into. Replaced that using a guide here and now everything works great. So if your home button doesn't work after replacing the physical button, try replacing the dock connector.

Ted, · Reply

Took 1hr no sweet. So much better now having a new home button that isnt sticky. Yus!!!

markushirner, · Reply

I used the gloves as recommended and it took just under an hour to break it down. Just over an hour to rebuild it.

Patience is the key and read all the instructions, they really are excellent.

Also, use the screw template and personally, I used "Magic Tape" to gently tape down each screw into it's coloured circle so they couldn't get knocked.

In my case (a launch day iPhone 4), one of the screws in the large EMI shield was captive. Other than that it was exactly as described

dave, · Reply

Great guide. Follow to the letter and you'll be home free. Let me emphasize even further that the ribbon component of the home button is VERY fragile. Although my profile says I realised the procedure successfully, I damaged the replacement part at the crucial moment. Very frustrating to say the least. So be EXTREMELY careful when manipulating the home button. :)

yanissauve, · Reply

Before you replace your home button, try searching on youtube on how to fix it with rubbing alcohol. I was about to order these parts and then stumbled on how to clean it with alcohol, which after doing several times (like 8) my home button has not misfired since.

Derek Wichmann, · Reply

OK, that was REALLY tricky. I had to back track twice to fix some of my mistakes. I didn't seat the camera properly and was unable to close the back of the phone. That wasn't too bad to fix. I had also folded a cable from the lcd to the logic board making it too short to reach, I had to step back many steps to resolve that. I also broke one of the 4 plastic clips on the front of the lcd that hold it in the frame. I hope you all have better luck. It was a tricky one but I'm happy with the results and this guide was very helpful and invaluable to completing this home button repair. Thanks ifixit!

bluespin42, · Reply

When removing the display assembly, try to slide the ipod opening tool to find a gap. It took me a while before I could detach the display from the body.

yibindeng29, · Reply

thank u very much,problem solved..

now my iphone 4 is working perfectly after home button changed.

keep up the good work guys.

godblesssssss u all.

Neil, · Reply

Just completed this last night in about an hour, directions were perfect!!! If you try this just make sure you have the right tools, the blue plastic shim tool is key. Having a nice screwdriver set that is magnetic was very helpful as well. Take your time and you should be fine. My home button works like a champ now! :-)

brooksuhrig, · Reply

I just completed this and now the LCD screen does not work. Any ideas what could have happened? Is it possible that I damaged the LCD/digitizer? The unit powers up, vibrates, and I can even hear it receive emails. LOL, help!

david, · Reply

Same thing happened to me. Anyone have any ideas?

SImon,

crap same thing happened to me :( I fixed the home button and the digitizer won't work now. story of my life.

orion,

I followed the directions explicitly and found them to be extremely accurate, however, getting the screen out was ridiculously difficult due to the adhesive as compared to how easy the video makes it seem.

I ended up having to use a spudger and push from inside of the phone behind where the rear facing camera would go.

gcoddington, · Reply

My original home button had to be pressed extremely hard in order to function so I installed a new one thinking that it was the problem. While replacing the button I noticed that the moisture indicator on the dock connector was pink, indicating that moisture had been inside the phone near the dock connector.

After replacing the home button however, there was no functionality at all. I thought that maybe the dock connector was to blame so I installed a new one. Still no home button functionality. I then reinstalled the original home button but kept the new dock connector and limited functionality returned (having to press extremely hard). What do you all think is goin' on?

kornkid4032, · Reply

Wonderful! Had a very desensitized home button. If you have any technical know-how, this guide is spot on. Followed every step, wore gloves to prevent oils, works wonderfully now. Everything seems more responsive. Thanks!

Danielle, · Reply

Okay! First of all, the key thing in this process is loads of patience and Gud sorting. Seriously taking ur iPhone apart is tricky and u don't wanna mess up the screws here and dere so be careful.

Followed this guide from step 1 to 31 and back again, and voila my home button was working again...

Just a little tip abt the EMI fingers, they are extremely fragile, I broke one of mine, and had to tape it placing properly fr the proper contact.

Also make sure u have screwed down each bolt properly in place, becoz I wasn't able to close the lid after complete reassembly. Checked the screws and it all fit well finally.

Thnx a lot ifixit and other users for ur invaluable content and stuff.

I really feel like a worthy techie now. :P

:D

Kashwin Kohli, · Reply

Okay that took some time but got there after an hour and a half. Bit I found most difficult was reconnecting the ribbon from the actual new home button - I was trying to feed the ribbon under the clamp arm thingy itself rather than into the front of the assembly - dough. Once I realised that it all went smoothly...

chris, · Reply

It took me 2h30m. It's working like new. Just be gentle when handling ribbons and connectors. Thanks iFixit!

pic10F206, · Reply

What can I say — fantastic guide! It is hard, but definitely doable. Took me just over two hours and a lot of patience.

Sergey Kuleshov, · Reply

Just fixed my old iPhone using this guide, have also used ifixit guides for macs in the past and they are always infinitely helpful, there were a few tricky bits and it took longer than expected but well worth it. Great guide, thanks a lot ifixit!

Alex Wright, · Reply

This was scaring me for weeks before I took the plunge. Took about 2.5 hours. The guide is excellent, but yes this is a very fiddly job and the display was very difficult for me to remove, I broke a couple of the ipod opening tools but now its back together and works perfectly.

markzian, · Reply

Done! Boy, it took me 1.5 but done. Anyway don't forget guys it's quality that counts so don't hurry up, take your time & get light (lots of light above you). Get a coke and it will work it. I reassembled everything, turned it on and home button working yeah. Ouch, my screen was no more sensitive. I killed the digitizer cable. Lucky me I had another broken iPhone which i took the LCD and put it on my phone. (about 1.5 again to reassemble everything back)

Tip 1: I did the whole thing with Essential Electronics Toolkit and I had everything I needed.

Tip 2: Print Home_Button_Screw_Template.pdf (you'll need it) Find a magnet pad to put under your A4 paper. This will help hold the screws.

Tip 3: Use a suction cup at step 28. It found it in my Essential Electronics Toolkit

Tip 4: I killed my digitizer cable at step 29 & 30. So please pay double attention there.

Tip 5: Get yourself a beer when finished :)

Rapstorm, · Reply

It worked for me!! Great guide, thanks!! a lot

Jeroen Wolff, · Reply

At step 14 the metal tab that helps hold the plate in place made it hard for me to reach the screw on the top right corner. I just bent it down slightly and re-bent after i was done.

ltspenny, · Reply

i already reassembly all the parts and the phone works perfectly but the back cover can not be slide down :(

the back cover sits perfectly but it just can not slide down

can anyone tell me the solution?

thanks

Rendy Aprilianto, · Reply

Ich habe die Batterie und den Home-button ersetzt und brauchte 1,5h dafür als Fein-Elektroniker.

Die seitlichen, grossen Gehäuse-Schrauben muss man nur anlösen und nicht komplett entfernen.

Seid sehr vorsichtig beim lösen und einstecken der Kabel. Und dass keine Flachbandkabel eingeklemmt werden.

Gruss MartinW

MartinW, · Reply

Followed the instructions and read some advice from the comment and have just completed it successfully! Saved me go knows how much money! Thank you!

A few things;

- I didn't have all the right sized screwdrivers but I got away with using a slotted driver for most of the smaller ones. (I brought a (rubbish) kit off ebay)

- I didn't use windex but I was especially careful not to touch to the contacts - seems to be fine.

- I printed off a few sheets with the Iphone layout on. and laid the screws out, a great way to keep track of what goes where.

- Took me about an hour and a half taking it very steady and checking everything. Take you time and it's reasonably straight forward.

Once again, thanks ifixit!

Peter Plant, · Reply

Fantastic, slow and steady. The only thing I would suggest is be extra careful at step 28 feeding the ribbon cables back through. they can get stuck easily and if you dont notice they can get pinched and break.

Otherwise perfect Thanks for the guide!

Buzz Lightyear, · Reply

This is a great guide, thanks. Although this repair is not for the faint of heart (or unsteady of hand), with some perseverance, I was able to complete it successfully. My only suggestion is that you include some kind of warning that the home button ribbon cable retainer tab is _very_ fragile. It's also not completely clear from the pictures how the ribbon cable is affixed to the connector (the tongue of the ribbon cable slides under the connector). A tighter close up of the entire assembly, or perhaps an animated gif illustrating that part might be helpful.

Mushfeq Khan, · Reply

The assemble steps are not included in this guide. I've done all the steps shows above smoothly, but when I tried to reassemble my iphone4, as I did not see the correct way of install it back, the touch sensor cable were broken, I have to bought another brandnew screen for my phone! And, there's quite a few tiny rubber parts in the phone, I just can't find any description about them, one of them were dropped out on my work table, I can't find the right place to put it back... hope there could be some hints for the assembling steps, especially for those tiny parts and cables need to be take care of...

Joseph Jiang, · Reply

Tried it, twice. When I plug the phone in mac usb port, I get a message saying that the usb port was trying to use too much power. And also, the phone is warmer than usual and battery is emptying very fast. I get the same message even without the battery pluged in.

Looks definitely as a short circuit but I have no clue from where...

Anybody can help me? Thanks!

vma, · Reply

Just replaced the back panel, installed home button mechanism and new battery - all went just as planned except...

I beheaded the battery connector screw! It all works at the moment. SO nice having the home button working properly again.

I also trapped the rear cable under the screen - I used a flathead screwdriver to push the fold through the slot. And the replacement back panel is not to Apple's original standards, but clean and clear none the less.

Great work iFixit!!!

Kit, · Reply

i like her, nerdy hot and can fix my iphones lol. good catch for sure! anyway really good tutorial ! thanks

mike, · Reply

great guide!!!

button replaced and now it's working again!! awesome.

a couple of tips though...

1. take your time!!! this phone has a ridiculous amount of tiny screw, washers, rubber thingies and what not... don't be against the clock.

2. almost no force is required in this!!! only part you should some force is when pulling out the display from the metal frame. and even there, a suction cup will greatly help you.

3. i did have some difficulties putting the logic board back, just try and wiggle it around until you see it is sitting nice and snug in there and all screw hole are aligned.

4. try to have a screen protector film on your display because most of your work will be with the display faced down. those things are like $1 so get one.

5. after your are done, test your speakers, vibrator, wifi, cellular reception, cameras and of course the home button.

6. tap yourself on the back and have a cold beer when you are done, you just disassembled and reassembled the entire phone almost completely.that is not easy.

jackhammer, · Reply

Spent 4 hours trying to repair the home button of my iPhone according to these guidelines, got stuck at step 21 (didn't want to get out). Put everything back together carefully, which took me again a while ... result: goodbye iPhone. Doesn't work anymore, at all. Great.

Frauke, · Reply

Thank you iFixiT. Just fixed the home button on My iPhone 4. I forgot what it was like having a functional home button.

vargomatt, · Reply

You guys rock!

Thank you so much for putting these instructions together.

I had a couple of tricky moments but my phone is working better than ever.

My frustrations have been eased and I couldn't be happier!

Shai Yammanee, · Reply

+This is not as difficult as you may think. It is, however, very time consuming. Expect it to take at LEAST a couple of hours.

+The guide should mention when you are taking off the screen it is glued down and requires very gradually prying it off a little at a time while you go around.

+Other than that it was pretty simple.

+Also latex gloves or keeping your hands clean of excessive oils is better than having to use windex.

+P.S. I purchased my parts from dx.com. They worked great!

Scott Butler, · Reply

Next time I'll pay for someone to fix it.

The iPhone won't turn on again... When I press the on button, there is some backlight on the screen (I can see it with the sim off), and then it turns off again.

Don't know what went bad. Any ideias?

Bruno Bahia, · Reply

Everything went well. Took me 3hours to tear it apart and back together. the only issue im having is that sometimes my screen won't turn on even thought the phone is on and im receiving text msg and calls. So each time i have to restart my phone by pressing the switch off and menu button(im glad i change it or else i wont be able to restart) anyone knows why this is happening? Some help please

Willy, · Reply

thanks for your guide

works!

make sure you put the connector correctly into the sockets - otherwise you will do the job twice :-)

Adrian Bader, · Reply

Caution: New phones may contain T1 screw heads instead of Phillips.

ajg35, · Reply

any news on those screwdrivers? where can we buy them?

grze,

using something like the 18-compartment tray will GREATLY help with this one; there are over a dozen groups of parts. For re-assembly having a digital calipers to measure the 2.4 vs the 2.6mm screws also helps greatly.

awr, · Reply

My method for hardware management during delicate phone surgery is to take and print out on 8.5"x11' paper, one or more pictures of the open phone in various stages of disassembly, and then tape the screws to the appropriate spots on the pictures. Also write numbers on the pictures next the screws to indicate the order in which you removed them.

lens42,

I did a successful surgery on my iPhone, be warned this is not for the faint of heart!

I've done iPod screen replacements, battery replacements, this is by far much more difficult and intricate.

Great write up! Thanks a million.

Jaysen Strange, · Reply

Couldn't even get both screws out of the bottom of the case. One was easy and other refuses to budge. Screws so small I can't see if it is turning or screw driver is properly seated. Sad I too have done screen replacements on other phones. Don't know any secrets to get the screw out

ckracht, · Reply

I also have a problem with seeing what is happening with some of those tiny little screws and parts. For other projects that I do, I use an Opti-Visor. It slips over your head and provides 10x magnification. ( You can find them on Amazon).

Yeah, it adds cost to the project and you would have to wait for delivery, but it sure makes a world of difference in seeing what you are working with / on.

jhow,

On an early iPhone 4 I found that the #000 Phillips bit included in the 54 Bit Driver Kit didn't actually fit the screws. However the JIS #000 also in the kit did fit quite well. This is due to the JIS bits "thinner" design to prevent camming out of the slot. Otherwise everything went well. Looking forward to replacing the battery in my other phone that has the pentalobe screws. Glad I got the 54 Bit kit!

etler, · Reply

Use a vacuum duster and a sharp tool to pry out the dust, this can increase the volume insanely!

Dpairs, · Reply

At the very last second before insertion, the second new screw for the bottom popped out of my pliers! I dont' want to use the old ones, but I don't want to leave it with one screw. Can I get a replacement screw?

Otherwise it went together fine, and I figured out for myselkf that the contact needs to be bent,,,

loujudson, · Reply

What does the park that is gold and next to the 4.8mm screw for the antenna? Looks like I am missing that part and almost positive that is why I can't pick up or connect to any wifi signals. I have the screw and the antenna from another phone that is working and tried it on the broken phone and still doesn't work. Only thing different is that gold metal piece to the left of that 4.8 mm screw. Can I buy that part? how do I attach it?

Jay Pennington, · Reply

not able to unscrew

Naved Zaidi, · Reply

using suction cup with too much force breaks rear panel

lily einstein, · Reply

Remove the single 2.5 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board- for me this Phillips screw won't budge from its place have tried all the phillips combinations 000, 00, 0, 1 and the straight /slotted 1.5 mm but nothing. can some help me please purchased a replacement battery for my iPhone 4 but not able to do it just because of this screw.

Naved Zaidi, · Reply

I was going through the take apart and after reassembly, it seems to just sit there an power cycle. It's as though the battery is no longer working. Any thoughts as to what I may have done wrong?

Social Apples, · Reply

Use #000 fine screw driver!!!

bfbogaert, · Reply

Use an #000 fine screw driver to remove two screws from iPhone 4s!

bfbogaert, · Reply

There is a metal bracket that secures the connector, that will be removed before the conector is unfasten

poseido, · Reply

When I used a plastic opening tool to gently disconnect the battery connector from its socket, I accidently remove the socket too.. Now what? :( ......

odisseas, · Reply

Stuck on step 4 can't unscrew the battery screw. stopped trying as all i seem to be doing is damaging the screw any tips as to how to approach this?

Tazziii, · Reply

my phone doesnt have a screw that connects the battery to the logic bored...is that a problem?

sadie, · Reply

I didn't need to remove the battery !! why would you take the battery away, the motor can be removed easily with the battery in place, and the whole process would take less than 2 minutes if you exclude the battery steps

Mohammed Fahmy, · Reply

I have trouble with the screw: I bought my used and now opened it for the first time. The screw is totally messed up, I can't unscrew it because the screwdriver doesn't fit in the screw/doesn't unscrew it. What can I do?

dfrisch86, · Reply

There is a small black L-shaped bracket of some sort that tits between the battery connector and the motherboard socket, with a loop on one corner that sits betwen the riserand the battery connector. Remove this now, and do not forget to re install it on assembly.

stevesontheroad, · Reply

When reattaching this bracket make sure your Battery ribbon is already tucked underneath the battery with only the minimum clearance required. Then make sure the brackets overhang is over the battery ribbon. Dont try to slide it under the Ribbon.

crimney, · Reply

In Step 5 be EXTRA careful with the battery connector as the socket can come off extremely easy. This can mess up the replacement a little bit and cost you extra. Otherwise, this guide is excellent.

Good luck, fixers!

I fix(ed) it!

mateuszkus, · Reply

Just be careful when removing the battery with the plastic pull tab. On some units, they use so much glue that it's virtually impossible to take the battery.

In such an instance, you could use the iPod opening tool to assist (just be careful where you stick it!)

klubn, · Reply

use the iPod opening tool to pry gently under the battery from the outer edge of the phone and work towards the plastic tab. the tab is not actually attached to the battery itself, but a plastic sheet between the battery and inner frame. the adhesive on the battery tends to be under the edge of the battery nearest the center of the phone.

David Iwanicki, · Reply

Understand that the plastic pull tab is part of the phone. It sits under the battery like a tray and is not connected to the battery so it needs to stay in tact.

mattcfi, · Reply

once the iphone restarted, the battery was at 30%.

baldus, · Reply

This i think is the most diffucult part.

Because they use so much glue on it. I have to did this with so much force.

Glad that i didn't kill the circuit board when i took this out.

Shoung0690, · Reply

My battery was so firmly glued in, it took a long time to slowly pry it loose. Patience is the key to this process. I could see easily damaging the circuit board by using too much force. The plastic tab did not help at all.

The ribbon cable attaching the new battery to the battery connector clip is longer than the original. I clicked the clip into the socket first and then was very careful to fold the excess while putting the battery back in so the ribbon cable didn't kink. One kink in this could sever the battery leads.

drathbun, · Reply

My ribbon cable was also longer than the original. How did you get it to not kink while placing the batter back into the phone? That seems to be my only hang up at the moment

cvbaseballsean22,

Piece of cake! The hardest part was being sure the outer pentalobe screws were actually turning and I wasn't stripping them. Battery was glued firmly in, so I loosened it from the outside instead of using the plastic pull-tab. I pre-bent the battery connector neck before putting it back in and had no problems with it fitting in. Getting the battery connector aligned with the antenna piece underneath was a bit fiddly. Got the case back on, put in the new screws, and powered the phone on without problem. Had 40% charge, all seems well. Yippee!

chezbuttons, · Reply

Do NOT use a spudger or similar type of prising tool to try lift up the battery. Instead, just warm up the whole area with a hot air gun or hair drier to soften the glue.

The reason why I say don't use an implement to try lift the battery is because far too many times I've seen punctured & bent batteries come in to this workshop that have to be thrown out for safety reasons. It only takes a grain of sand, or a burr on the spudger and you're risking a potential cell rupture and potential fire.

Just use a bit of heat ( not a lot! ) to soften up the glue and it'll come away with the plastic pull tab.

Paul L Daniels, · Reply

These instructions don't mention putting the 2.5mm screw back in. I found this very challenging because it is so short, so very difficult to line it up to get it back in the hole, and very easy to drop it inside the phone. Take care.

robshopping, · Reply

Non problem with reassembly - just took patience - my is that the phone now does not want to charge the battery. It shows taht the battery is dead and charger needs to be connected but does not charge?

What have I not done coreectly - or at least what can I check to determine the problem?

Thanks

Richard Bebee, · Reply

The grey cable on the top right of the 1st picture might be confusing, it's the connector with cable which you'll disconnect in step 9 only, so you can't see it this way in this phase.

mhejjas, · Reply

Be careful to make sure you don't pinch the clear plastic tab under the mobo when reinstalling. :P

jonathan, · Reply

Box 3 BOx 3 Box 3 petite vis a gauche

bigben8, · Reply

I had trouble with my SIM card at this point. It wouldn't go all the way in - only about 1mm short but enough to keep the phone from being able to read it. It seems that the red screw in this step is the culprit. I loosened it up a bit and the SIM card tray was able to fit flush.

budgetbooksfl, · Reply

Use the 1.6mm screw standoff as leverage against to lift the connector.

Mark, · Reply

Make sure not to pry too much under the flex cable because you will likely damage the gold / silver shining adhesive tape that is located beneath it.

The guide is missing a comment on this and one would not expect the tape there. Check out the photos of step 10 to get an idea of how the tape looks like.

I assume this to be some kind of head-conductive component.

It won't be much of a problem if you damage parts of it though.

But if you peel off / coil up too much of it, it could get too big and the flex cable could get damaged when it's pressed against it.

Stefan, · Reply

be extremely careful to check that there isnt any metallic conductive glue sticking, some may remain attached to the motherboard-connecter position in its space on top of the logicboard

Dai, · Reply

So if that glue does stick to the 'motherboard', does it damage the phone?

Dalton , · Reply

NOTE: When replacing the logic board, be sure this antenna remains exposed and doesn't become trapped under the board.

charlesholt, · Reply

Just wondering if it is possible and where to get one of those indicators

edward, · Reply

what are you talking about here???

Steven Munoz, · Reply

Yeah, would like to know the value of the little blue inductor ... my iPhone 4 doesn't have it any more and I have the worst signal.

PressureFM, · Reply

I wasn't sure how to carefully detach the antennae. Can anyone offer some insight on how to reattach the antennae? Is it supposed to be soldered to the board? Or is it a pin attachment?

kulpsterdaman, · Reply

see that tiny little blue thing just to the left of the antenna connector but before the screw? make sure you DON'T knock that out of place otherwise your iphone becomes a heavy ipod touch (yes. this idiot made that mistake while struggling to get the antenna connector back in - which for the record just clips back in). this would have been a handy tip for me while i was reading the instructions, which apart from that little trinket of information, were very easy to follow.

-dan

dan, · Reply

Be careful, I almost damaged this specific screw by using a Phillips #00 screwdriver. It's screwed in tighter than most others. You will need a Phillips #000 or else your #00 has to be a really sharp one.

Kelvin Leong, · Reply

The cross on top of the screw on my phone is all messed up - not from me stripping it, it just looks like a manufacturing error. The screwdriver won't even fit into the screw, and I can't get it out (I have no idea how they got it in in the first place). Any suggestions?

Mike Machado, · Reply

same here, screw stripped any suggestions?

Gary Woodward,

Couple of ways to get rounded-out-head screws;

1) use a tiny drop of super glue on the top place your screwdriver on the drop/screw, then sprinkle a bit of bicarb-soda on to the wet super glue, it'll harden very rapidly and form a fillet; wait a minute and you should be able to then unscrew the screw.

Be VERY CAREFUL when doing this, because you don't want to have superglue wicking between the screw and the circuit board.

Perhaps practice on some other things first.

I've removed several like this before; frequently I find the culprits for rounded out slots are ham-fisted people trying to do their own repairs in the past.

Paul L Daniels, · Reply

Get a set of these precision screw extractors. I own a small electronics repair shop and I wouldn't be without them. If you buy them remember that the ends are reversible in case you dull one end. http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Precision-Sc...

Joshua, · Reply

Be careful about the very small spring contact that is under the shield and around the 4.8 mm screw - it can spring out when the shield is removed. It must be reinserted prior to installing the shield, with the thick part up and the spring in contact with the gold pad to the right of the screw hole in the case.

Steve Noland, · Reply

INCREDIBLE! Steve this probably happens to people all the time. The "very small spring contact that is under the shield and around the 4.8 mm screw" I will elaborate on. It's not so much around the 4.8mm screw as it actually part of the assembly where the 4.8 mm screw is tightened. I added an arrow to this picture to visually illustrate:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/9/i...

I had no wifi at all until this was present. I had overlooked the piece and spent hours trying to figure out where it went. BIG THANK YOU to Steve for his comment. After fixing, my wifi was perfect.

Jimmy,

When re-assembling, start off with replacing the 4.8 mm Philips screw first, then the 2.3 mm. This is to ensure there is no mix-up, and avoid rendering the LCD and digitizer useless. Steve or someone -- can you explain what is meant by this? My LCD and digitizer now does not work, but I don't think I have any screws in the wrong place.

david,

I have the same issue than David. Could anyone elaborate on the brief note in the manual? Thank you!

Christoph Biehl,

There is a washer under the plate that is held together by the 1.4mm Philips. This might come loose. Be careful not to lose it.

nsolis, · Reply

Confirming this. It's not in the description and it came out when I disconnected the screw. At first I was unsure where it came from, but when I reassembled the phone, the yellow screw didn't make contact, so I realized the washer had to go under the contact plate.

marcx77,

So that small washer behind the 1.4 screw became detached during reassembly. What affect does this have? My phOne started to overheat; I then turned off my wifi and things are fine.. How is this related you think?

mallorypichler,

If a nut under the YELLOW screw is rotating, hold the nut with tweezers.

yujin yamada, · Reply

Somehow i twisted the head off of the 4.8mm screw (ground) during reassembly and not i have terrible wifi. Trying to come up with a solution.... any suggestions?

racaruso90, · Reply

On my phone the "washer" that the 1.4mm screw goes into I think is actually the mounting post that had come detached. I realize afterwards there was therefore no point removing this screw, but I did remove (and put it back afterwards) by holding onto the loose post/washer with tweezers to prevent it turning.

Anthony Berkow, · Reply

Print this image out (step 13) - trust me, you'll need it later!

Alan Shenton, · Reply

The "washer" that a few of the commenters have mentioned isn't a washer nor a broken post. It is a circular nut that helps the WiFi antenna get a good connection to the logic board. It is part of a sandwich: 1.4mm screw head WiFi antenna logic board ++ circular nut. I held it in place with tweezers and then screwed the 1.4mm screw in. Don't lose this nut!

tdroz, · Reply

I found that the 1.4 mm screw measured a little less than 1.1 mm on my phone. So don't be confused by that.

Daniel, · Reply

When I came to reassemble at this step, I noticed the 1.4mm screw no longer had anything to screw to. The nut or washer or whatever it is that you mention has gone. My screen does not work any more. Is this connected and/or is there anything I can do to peplace what is lost?

Chris, · Reply

This screw is supposed to tie into a very small nut that sits under a small u-shaped tab in the EMI shield that is fixed to the PCB. Maybe that nut has moved or got lost. I recommend you to lift that small tab to find it because if loose it could create a short-circuit.

But that screw/nut is absolutely not essential to the LCD. It should work without it.

Christophe De Wolf,

watch for the connector cover here - it tends to be quite "springy" and may fly towards you when you attempt to release the clips

David Iwanicki, · Reply

What do these metal clips look like?

ryanporter, · Reply

Be Careful of a tiny metal piece attached to the black bit on top that acts as the screw spot for the blue screw. I just slid it back on. Hopefully no harm done.

crimney, · Reply

do you have a photo or description?

David Holmes,

The clip actually looks like it might be a ground. it's gold and is folded in two. There's a screw cutout and something that looks like it physically is supposed to touch something. Phone works fine without it, though.

stores, · Reply

the rear camera has an extra long tab which runs under the digitizer cable - be careful not to bend this while removing the camera.

David Iwanicki, · Reply

To avoid damaging the Main Camera, it will probably be better to do Step 18 first before doing this step. This is because part of the camera is actually under the Digitizer and LCD cable.

nsolis, · Reply

There was no screw underneath the warranty sticker or even a place for a screw. Disappointed.

Ed Wiliams, · Reply

I removed by accident the other white sticker on the logic board. What happens now? Will the phone work?

Vit Rozehnal, · Reply

It won't hurt anything.

Joshua,

What are these types of connectors called? anyone know where to order just the connectors? or even better would be extension cables

Chris, · Reply

blue, green and yellow down, orange and red up. red BEFORE orange, as part of the ribbon is UNDER red.

unklbyl

unklbyl, · Reply

Windex didn't work well for me for degreasing the connections. It made the connections worse in fact. Now my digitizer AND my screen don't work.

johnpetraborg, · Reply

It seems that you misunderstood the notes throughout the guide. You should only clean metal to metal contact points, such as the contact area between the EMI fingers and the metal case on the speaker enclosure. Applying Windex in connectors or sockets of any type will almost certainly destroy components in your phone.

Andrew Bookholt,

when i was replacing the logic board a small gold piece came off. It is above the top left corner of the orange box for the LCD cable. What is it for?

romaine, · Reply

If you are replacing any of the cables that connect here, be sure to save the foam from the top of the connector to put on your replacement part. It helps secure the connector once the connector cover is put back during reassembly.

Blarg, · Reply

When re-plugging the yellow connector (the leftmost of the 3 connectors that you disconnected from the top) put the cables behind and not before the metal part with a hole where the EMI Shield 2 clips in. Otherwise you will not be able do step 13.

Philippe Leledy, · Reply

Be carefull of a very small component soldered near the yellow connector. It can pop off and make your front camera irresponsive.

Christophe De Wolf, · Reply

When reassembling, the various connectors have a leading plastic lip that allows you to align and then slowly snap in place. i pushed on the pads on top of the connectors with the flat tool provided in the kit. Also, the first time, i did not press the LCD cable very well, so the phone was working, but no display showing. once i snapped this in place the second time, it worked like a charm.

hansiemys, · Reply

After reassembly, when I changed to the front camera, the display got stuck in shutter mode. The website bellow suggests I lost a microscopic jumper that enables the front camera. I am guessing this happened when I disconnected the 3 connectors. The dang jumper is so small I never even noticed that I lost it. Oh well at least the rear camera still works... http://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/54838...

Slobird, · Reply

I ran into a not workin front camera after a screen replacement on Iphone4. I found out that I had broken the tiny jumper on the main board when I pried off the headphone plug. That jumper is next to the right upper corner of the headphone/volume button plug (yellow marked in step 17 of relacement guide), you can see it in the picture as two silvery dots. If your prying tool sits on that jumper when levelling the plug off, it is history. I took a ampoule of conducting silver liquid, but instead of shaking it I took some of the sediment out with a thin wire and aplied a tiny blob over the two remaining soldering pads left. And alas, it worked ! Front camera is ok again. Thanks to those who found out about that jumper.

dl7utx, · Reply

There is a small rectangular rubber bumper on the top of the logic board. You can see it a little at the top of the picture. I knocked mine off and had no idea where it came from! Took my wife forever searching the pictures to locate where it was from.

nickbits, · Reply

Take care to put the small ruber piece into place to protect the ribon cable for the lcd dyplay

Hanspeter, · Reply

The smallest screw below the Digitizer connector is held by a tiny nut which is fixed below the EMI shield. Beware because this thing can get loose easily.

mcbohdo, · Reply

I believe that's the one he's referring to...

Joshua,

Image of rectangular rubber piece

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/835/i...

Rajan, · Reply

Thank you Rajan for this picture. The rubber piece fell out and i was frantically trying to find its spot.

hansiemys,

Yes! Thanks for this pic! I found this little piece in the body of the phone after I removed the logic board and was stumped! Real lifesaver!

Joshua,

how do i remove the 4.8 mm stand off? ifixit instructions arent detailed enough.

Austin, · Reply

I have found that the easiest way to remove these standoffs is to loosen them with a 2.0 or 2.3 mm standard (flat) blade driver bit. Then, once it is loose, you can either loosen it the rest of the way, or for better control, insert your pentalobe driver into the center of it and loosen it the rest of the way. If your pentalobe driver won't turn it, then it is not loose enough, or the end of one of the small screws has broken off in it (actually fairly common).

Best of luck to you! Just ask if you need more info!

Joshua,

When reassembling, ensure the ribbon cables for the connector are between the silver metal and the circuit board. the wifi antenna plate clips into the silver metal.

Victor, · Reply

Note where the little rubber thing is. It's there to protect the digitizer and LCD ribbons curving over the top of the mobo. If you do these a lot, you're going to have a WTF moment when you go to put it back together and you have this short rubber strip....

jonathan, · Reply

where can i buy logic board from the iPhone

jamie, · Reply

be careful when putting the logic board back in: i trapped the lower antenna cable under it (see step 11). Also, it 'hooks in' at the top and rotates down; there is a notch cut into the outer case to capture the top of the motherboard.

awr, · Reply

Missing rubber guard can causing touchscreen sensitivity & accuracy problem.

Otniel Yoreiza, · Reply

Do not forget the rubber piece. When replacing my home button, I noticed this rubber piece fall out of the phone, and couldn't figure out where it went. I left it out, and my touchscreen had all sorts of problem. I thought I had damaged the digitizer ribbon. I even bought a new screen and had similar problems after putting that in. I finally put a makeshift piece of rubber that I cut up into the spot where this rubber piece had gone, and currently haven't had problems for over a week. This rubber piece must suppress interference problems of some kind.

dreyna, · Reply

Great point! I had the logic board put back in and then found this little thing hanging out. I found a "tip" on a different site that showed it going between the rear-facing camera and the logic board! Thanks!

Joshua,

Can we get a better photo of where rubber piece goes? Mine fell off, and I have no idea where to put it back on to.

csuslog, · Reply

It goes on the edge of the logic board where the Digitizer and LCD Panel ribbon cables bend over the Logic Board before they plug into it. The rubber piece protects the ribbon cables from chafing like a bumper and from interferance.

fasthans,

You can see it on the upper left of the Logic Board, just to the right of the camera in the photo for Step 18. It is easier to see if you click on the view huge link to blow up the photo.

fasthans,

Note that when re-installing the logic board, do not forget about the antenna connector near the bottom of the phone. Make sure that it does not get trapped under the logic board when you are placing the logic board in the case.

Scott, · Reply

Ear piece metal connectors: You can see them on step 22. If those are not bent up enough (laying flat) you won't have contact with the logic board... and no more audio from the ear piece. This is what happened to me. I had to unmount it again to bend them and hop the ear piece worked again!

chuvux, · Reply

This was a very tricky part. Just make sure that you don't put pressure on the login board to get it into place, take your time and ease it in. There will be a bit of spring in it when you push down which is a combination of the folded LCD and Digitizer Ribbon Cables and the two copper contacts underneath.

gregjames, · Reply

This was absolutely the hardest part - had to do it over many times. The digitizer ribbon cable kept insisting on folding up under the logic board. Tip: do not let the cable fold up, even it that's how it naturally wants to go, it will be too short.

Julian Boilen, · Reply

Note: During assembly, do not put another screw on the left side just yet. Otherwise you would not be able to install the motherboard in the next step.

taras, · Reply

step 20 speaker screw was stripped from the factory! aaaagh! took some tweaking but got it out using a little drill bit and forcing a standard screwdriver in the divot and cranking it out. the screw is absolutely necessary to reinstall too, so that was tough.

travisray, · Reply

that screw is unscrewable!! I think the factory ruined the cross while assembly and no screwdriver can grab it anymore!!! arrggg... coming to this point it's already so hard.. I don't want to re assemble everything without fixing this home button!!!

supernova, · Reply

the EMI fingers are VERY fragile...

David Iwanicki, · Reply

Agreed. I broke mine off the first time I removed it.

Scott Head, · Reply

Me too, are they that important, can i put it back together without them?

romaine,

'and then there were THREE' yup i broke off one as well. hint on re-assembly; put in the speaker box, and working from left to right, apply a fair amt of downward pressure and use a tiny flat-blade screwdriver to push the tip of the emi fingers toward the speaker box, go left to right so you can put in the screw on the right side when done.

awr, · Reply

what happens if they break off?

bobop10, · Reply

I broke 2 of the 4 off (both on the left side) and haven't noticed any difference in the functioning of the phone.

justinstayton,

I broke off the right-most one (closest to the microphone) and after reassembly my signal strength was poor and dropped easily. I replaced the antenna/speaker unit with one from a 4s (the cable was a touch longer; but, solved with some bending) and made sure to really clean the contacts (and not break any)... long story short, intact fingers and cleaning has resulted in better signal strength than prior to the repair! go figure!

ccfoster, · Reply

I agree they are very fragile! I broke off 1 EMF finger by pressing it down - wish i had read comments 1st! Phone still seems to work Ok, but gave me a scare.

Paul baskeyfield, · Reply

There is a square, metal bar that fits into a slot on the right side of the vibrator. The 1.4mm screw threads into this bar. It fell out when I first flipped it over the phone to remove the screen. Look out for that.

Andy Dittrich, · Reply

When I removed the screw from here I also found a small rubber piece. It is about 8mm long and 2mm wide, and it has a channel down the centre of it. I couldn't figure out where it came from but the phone seems to be perfectly fine without it. I thought it could possibly be some sort of anti-vibration damper for the vibrator although I am not sure. I couldn't see it in any of the pictures.

The Talent, · Reply

You can find ist on picture step 20 - right down under the red circle, between frame an speakerbox

Thorsten, · Reply

The rubber piece Thorsten is describing is a different one, smaller than the one The Talent is mentioning. The one with the channel down the centre of it, I dont know where it goes.

computer, · Reply

If your objective is to remove the front panel only, you do not need to remove any of the "large-headed" 1.5 mm Phillips screws, but only loosen them slightly. Putting these screws back can be quite a hassle, and there's really no need for it. When replacing the front panel, take care of the position of the washers (they should be in between the case and screw head.

klubn, · Reply

i tried using the 'only loosen' method on half, and found out because of the washers, they interfered during reassembly. it was very easy to replace them by setting the phone down on its side (propped up so as not to tip) and use a tweezer to put in the washer then screws, it was simple.

awr, · Reply

I used tweezers. Worked great. Til i applied too much pressure and one of the washers went whizzing away into oblivion.

crimney,

I also used very fine tweezers (from a swiss army knife) to hold the washer and screw from the side as I positioned the screw over the hole, and then placed carefully the screwdriver tip onto the screw before releasing. worked fine. I found this the hardest part of the whole reassemble process.

Victor, · Reply

However, the four "1.5 mm Phillips screws", in each of the four corners, will need to be completely removed (and, subsequently, replaced during re-assembly).

klubn, · Reply

I just loosened them and it worked fine!

Leigh Ellis, · Reply

Removing the washer and screw is easy, but getting them back on is extremely hard unless you have midget fingers. The magnetic driver really doesn't help, just keeps dislodging the washer in its place when attempting to to reinsert screw. Using a non magnetic Phillips 0.

Chris, · Reply

I cannot get the flat headed screws out for the life of me - I've been trying for about half an hour! any tips?

kxthleen, · Reply

A small approx 8mm by 3mm by 1mm black piece of rubber fell out of the phone when I turned it over. Any idea where it's from? Thanks.

Courtney, · Reply

happened to me too.. did you ever hear anything from anyone else?

sgoodwin,

If it's square then it could be the piece that sits next to the dock connector on top of the little black speaker? Do you have a photo of it?

Dan Simon, · Reply

This is the photo:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/543...

Any idea where this goes?

Rajan,

Found it. It's clearly mentioned in step 18.

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/835/i...

Rajan,

Great guide. When you are prying the glass screen off be extremely careful not to lift the top of the too high. If you do lift it too high then the glass at the bottom of the phone will easily crack.

jeffchambers, · Reply

My glass refuses to budge ! I broke two ipod tools trying to get the glass off ! Reassembling phone, will try again some other time... There has to be an easier way to get the glass off...

Demetre, · Reply

If you use a hair dryer to soften the glue, it seems to do the trick. Just dont hold too close to melt anything. Did this with an Atrix a few times.

Jim, · Reply

Definitely use a hairdryer to loosen the glue below the power button to get the spudger started.

BradfordB, · Reply

WHYYYY DID YOU not telling that screen NEED TO BE PREHEATED at least by hair dryer ???? MY LCD is DEAD now !!!

mail, · Reply

It is indeed easy to pinch the digitizer cable in particular between the top of the glass and the metal backing underneath. Be careful.

jonathan, · Reply

one of the cables has a fold or something making it 'double' so there are really THREE cables that must be fed through the hole (one just doesn't go anywhere). I used a tiny tweezer to aid with re-routing the cables and it was FAR easier.

awr, · Reply

If you do have to replace the Camera Ring, I find it much easier to put some double sided 3m on the Display where the ring would go, then put the ring ON the camera, not the display. Also if you need to replace the camera ring, your prob gonna have to replace the ear screen, its easier in the long run just to replace it. Please do not glue either piece on.

Mark, · Reply

Sounds dumb but make sure you remove the (usually blue) protective sheet from the mirror surface on the interior of the new display. I didn't and I had to redo the whole process!

Colin, · Reply

CAUTION! When rerouting the LCD and Digitizer cables, DO NOT PULL ON THEM! I tried to re situate the Digitizer cable in order to mount onto the speaker enclosure, which broke the digitizer right off.

Henry, · Reply

This is the only part that was a little tricky for me. When I was reinstalling the LCD panel it took me a few tries to get the connectors and cables through the holes correctly, and not pinched by the frame. Take it slow and be gentle.

jefferydunn, · Reply

My bf claims I have to replace the LCD if I take it off. Is that true?

Crystal , · Reply

This part was very tricky because you need to make sure you have enough slack from the LCD and Digitizer cables. Take your time to make sure that the cables are fully through, even the slightest pinch will be enough for this to not reach and you have to redo it again (a massive pain if you've already started the reassembly. - A good way to test this is to before you reassemble try placing the logic board on top where the LCD and Digitizer cables will fit into, if they reach fine then you are good, if not then adjust the cables again until you know they are through completely, this saves you having to disassemble again if its not correct. - Good Luck and Take your time!

gregjames, · Reply

It's easy to get the digitizer cable caught and sandwiched when reassembling, make sure you carefully feed it through. I got everything almost assembled and then the digitizer ribbon cable wouldn't reach the connector! I was stuck for 45 mins till I figured it out.

Slawek, · Reply

Had to back track to this step as the feed through got folded a bit and I couldn't clamp down one of the digitizer cables..... all in all a fantastic tutorial.

Thanks!

kaykills, · Reply

For some reason when I put the phone back together the screen is dark on the upper left corner. The touch sensitivity works perfectly and the button replacement went well.

subzerodeath, · Reply

I received a dodgy digitiser - even when i took the screen off again the cables were not the right length.

alex, · Reply

I ripped the LCD cable pulling it too hard, is it fixable?

Andy, · Reply

At this point make sure that you don't have any broken glass left on the phone. I had, and the screen wouldn't go all the way down.

Sebastian, · Reply

Take a look at step 31. it shows him prising off the socket with the tool. why? Your not meant to do that, and I broke my iPhone following this. all you have to do is disconnect the ribbon. you don't lift anything up!

oranjj, · Reply

Hi oranjj, I did the same :-( can you do anything about it? Did you get yours fixed?

leroy978,

The picture is right. There is a very very tiny tab that needs to be lifted, so the socket releases the flex cable. It's barely noticeable but it's there. After replacing the home button you connect the new flex cable and then you lower the socket tab again to secure it. I'm sorry you broke yours :-/

pic10F206,

@oranjj actually you should lift up the small plastic retainer flap which locks the ribbon in or you won't be able to lock the new one in, the warning does explain you don't lift the whole thing

Leigh Ellis, · Reply

This step is really tricky. I broke the connector accidentally.

Meng, · Reply

this step is the most difficult part of the entire process. a closeup photo or two of how this connector works would be very useful. i nearly destroyed mine too!

garymohr001, · Reply

Nearly broke the connector too, although this was down to me not reading the step thoroughly. Was very tricky working that ribbon cable back in there, but all back together now and touch wood seems to be working fine! Thanks : )

Marc, · Reply

My home button had gone really bad and had to be pushed hard so I installed a complete new button w/socket cable.

I followed the guide and lifted the ribbon retainer before removing/inserting the ribbons.

Now there's no functionality at all?! .. :(

Any ideas?

stroelsen, · Reply

me too! did you ever hear back from anyone?

sgoodwin,

It is a ZIF type connector. Careful!!

similar to this: www.youtube.com/watch?v=AqalgC6zbHw

travisray, · Reply

I really don't understand how to put the home button back. I finally was able to get the old homebotton with cable out...though I am affraid I broke something.

Getting the new one is, is a pain in the $#$ and does not keeps in position. Is there a way to obtain a new socket? Or are there other posibilities?

stefan, · Reply

I have the same problem. Getting the cable out was no problem, but getting it in again does not work. I think my socket is okay but I cannot connect the button again... The cable still does not get in... :-/

Christian,

Hi! I actually broke the connector... took it out from the iPhone.

Can I just glue it back? Will it work?

My iphone doesnt want to reset... it asks for restore mode all the time

Alex, · Reply

Putting the new home cable in the socket was impossible. After pushing and wriggling for half an hour on the old cable to see how to get it back in, I gave up, put the new one in as far as possible, put the clip down and put the phone back together in the hope that it was I'm far enough. Turns out, it was!

Reversing instructions is not that simple. Some photos or more notes on how things go back would be great.

That said, I am so grateful these guides exist. Thank you!

Fiona Palmer, · Reply

Well, I too separated the "socket itself" because I thought it was a pushdown connector instead of sizeways ZIF. First attempt to put it back in place with superglue ended in a non-working home button (although the phone was still usable via Settings/General/Accessability/AssistiveTouch).

In my second attempt I removed the suplerglue and, with a fine soldering iron, very carefully, reconnected the socket in place by soldering the two back leads and (perhaps) one or two of the front leads. And now it works! Just afraid that if I drop the phone the hole thing will come apart, but for the moment I remain a happy camper.

Very many thanks for the guide, but please add a statement in Step 31 about the ribbon cable having to slide out of the socket horizontally, since the pictures are misleading.

jnavarro, · Reply

Putting the cable back into the connector is not easy. I broke the cable off the *old* button and played around to see how it all worked before attempting to fit the new one. I would recommend doing this as a few dummy runs of plugging them together makes it clear. Important to remember, the tiny, almost invisible, clip on the socket is up open, down locked.

If you have a lit magnifying glass, use it.

Victor, · Reply

The guide did not specify which part of the home button ribbon cable to squeeze when installing it, so the moment I tried to put in the new home button, I used my tweezers to squeeze the flat part of the home button ribbon—which was a terrible mistake, because on the other side of the ribbon were the two small transistors (or whatever) that I demolished instantly. As a result, I had to clean and reinstall my old button. :(

mig81, · Reply

Thank you. I have a full light grey area on the right screen side (same position as the logic board). What could it be? Please Help.

Thank you,

David

David Polacek, · Reply

I have the exact same problem ! didi you find a solution ?

Sacha KOZMA,

Took 2 hours to tear apart and back together. Had to redo some steps over. 1) Crushed ribbon cable when putting screen back on. Found out when ribbon cable wasn't long enough to reach connection. 2) Got antenna connector stuck under logic board, had to undo logic board to pluck it out.

Phone works, but like most of my tear down projects, I have an extra part left over after reassembly. It's a small bit of rubber insulation that looks like it should clip to some metal edge. I couldn't figure out where it belongs, hope it's not critical. :)

wingeng, · Reply

That sounds like the bit at step 18 ?

Victor,

doesnt work "iPhone 4 Home Button Assembly Black". I remowed the tape from the button, the button is too low. it doesnt work. wrong part maybe? dont buy stuff from this shop!

lauri, · Reply

How can I tell if there's a thin layer of plastic on the new part? Is it covering the silver connector?

breenjoe, · Reply

I'm also confused about the plastic film. I removed the plastic film from the back of my new home button and the silver disk came off with it - the disk is not glued on to the home button. When I put the new button in place I tried as best I could to keep the disk in the same position it was in before I took the plastic off.

The new home button works OK (I only have to press 2x for it to respond) but it doesn't move at all when I press it.

Should I have left the plastic on? Is the little silver disk necessary? should i have glued the silver disk back on to the home button?

I want to go back and re-do it, but not until I have a better understanding of what to do.

sctuck, · Reply

Is there any answer to the plastic film question?? Everything was so thorough till the end. Now I'm at step 33 with my phone 100% disassembled and not sure if the film that holds the silver disc should stay or go!!

dannybelisle, · Reply

Ok, helpful follow up here, the film I can only assume is something that may be on the front of the button. The film over the silver disc in the back stays. I just reassembled mine with that film on and home button is perfect. After examining the old home button, I realized that had a film too(just harder to see)

dannybelisle, · Reply

hi

in order to replace the home button only .....is it necessary to follow and do all the previous steps from 1 to 33 or just do some of them ?please help me

harry dragy,

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