iPhone 4 Dock Connector Replacement

This guide has more recent changes. Switch to the latest unverified version.

Replace a broken dock connector in your iPhone 4.

Use this guide to replace the dock connector assembly, which includes the dock connector and lower microphone.

Image #1

Edit Step 1 Rear Panel  ¶ 

  • Before disassembling your iPhone, be sure it is powered off.

  • Your iPhone 4 rear cover may have either two #000 Phillips screws or Apple's 5-Point "Pentalobe" screws (second image). Check which screws you have, and ensure you also have the correct screwdriver in order to remove them.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe or Phillips #000 screws next to the dock connector.

  • During reassembly, we recommend you replace the 5-point screws with equivalent Phillips screws. Our Liberation Kit provides the tools and screws needed to replace the Pentalobe screws with Phillips screws.

  • The 5-Point Screwdriver should only be used once, as it has the potential to strip the screws.

Image #1

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Push the rear panel toward the top edge of the iPhone.

  • The panel will move about 2 mm.

Image #1

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Pinch the rear panel with your fingers and lift it away from the iPhone. Alternatively, use a Small Suction Cup .

  • Be careful not to damage the plastic clips attached to the rear panel.

  • If you are installing a new rear panel, be sure to remove the plastic protective sticker from the inside of the camera lens and the sticker from the large black area near the lens.

Image #1

Edit Step 4 Battery  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 2.5 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

    • Some devices may have two screws, one of which holds down the contact pad which is located above the screw indicated in red in the photo.

Image #1

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break it entirely.

  • Remove the metal clip covering the antenna connector.

Image #1

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Use the clear plastic pull tab to gently lift the battery out of the iPhone.

  • Do not remove the plastic tab from the iPhone.

  • You may need to use a plastic opening tool to loosen the adhesive under the battery.

  • Remove the contact clip from the iPhone.

  • Before reconnecting the battery connector, be sure the contact clip (shown in red) is properly positioned next to the battery connector.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the pressure contact as well as its contact point on the rear panel with a de-greaser such as windex. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.

Image #1

Edit Step 7 Speaker Enclosure Assembly  ¶ 

  • Remove the following two screws:

    • One 1.2 mm Phillips

    • One 1.6 mm Phillips

  • Remove the thin steel dock connector cable cover from the iPhone.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the dock connector cable cover with a de-greaser such as windex. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.

Image #1

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the dock cable connector up off the logic board from both short ends of the connector.

Image #1

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Carefully peel the dock ribbon cable off the logic board and the lower speaker enclosure.

  • Do not use excessive force to peel the dock ribbon cable off the logic board. Doing so may tear the cable.

Image #1

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the lower antenna connector up off its socket on the logic board.

Image #1

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws securing the speaker enclosure assembly to the outer case:

    • One 1.9 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.4 mm Phillips screw

Image #1

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to lift the speaker enclosure assembly out of the case, being sure not to damage the EMI fingers on the attached Wi-Fi antenna.

  • Remove the speaker enclosure assembly.

  • Before reinstalling the speaker enclosure assembly's screws, be sure the Wi-Fi grounding fingers are installed below the lip in the iPhone's metal case as seen in the third picture.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points between the grounding fingers of the Wi-Fi antenna and the case of the iPhone with a de-greaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.

Image #1

Edit Step 13 Dock Connector  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to carefully peel the bottom edge of the dock connector assembly off the adhesive securing it to the rear case.

Image #1

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the dock connector to the rear case.

Image #1

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the home button ribbon cable retaining flap.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself. The retaining flap is the small flap on the charging port side of the cable retainer. It should flip up 90º.

  • Use a pair of tweezers to gently pull the home button ribbon cable out of its socket. Note its position for reinsertion.

  • Do not excessively strain the home button ribbon cable as you remove it, as it is very thin and fragile.

Image #1

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Use the flat edge of a spudger to carefully peel the left edge of the dock connector assembly and its ribbon cable off the adhesive securing it to the rear case.

  • Pry the right edge of the dock connector off the rear case.

Image #1

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Use the flat edge of a spudger to push the lower microphone away from the bottom edge of the iPhone.

  • Note the folding of the cable and the positioning of the rubber microphone cover for reassembly.

Image #1

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Remove the dock connector assembly from the iPhone, minding any cables that may get caught.

Image #1

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Slide the rubber cover off the microphone attached to the old dock connector and transfer it to your new dock connector.

  • The ribbon is very fragile and can easily be torn when placing the rubber cover onto your new part.

    • If your microphone does not work after replacing your dock connector, the issue may be that the rubber cover is not positioned properly on the mic cable.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iPhone 4 device page.

Required Tools


$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock


$6.95 · 50+ In stock

Plastic Opening Tools

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #000 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Related Products

iPhone 4 Dock Connector (GSM/AT&T)

$29.95 · 50+ In stock

Recommended Tools

Universal Drive Adapter

$29.95 · 50+ In stock

iFixit Lock Pick Set

$29.95 · 50+ In stock

Inspection Scope

$39.95 · 50+ In stock

Frictionless Ratchet

$24.95 · 50+ In stock

Portable Anti-Static Mat

$34.95 · 43 In stock

Comments Comments are onturn off

I found a cool iPhone 4 universal dock adapter that may help protect the connector from being damaged in the first place. It is called the LCYO Adapter (http://www.synthecept.com) and lets you dock the phone without removing the case. Just a thought, like I said it might help avoid a damaged connector!

B King, · Reply

I successfully did this, however now my mic is not working unless I am on speaker or using my headphones... anyone else have this problem?



Dimitri, · Reply

I had two different little pieces of plastic on my replacement on the mic that I needed to peel off. You may have left some on. Not the easiest to check, but a possibility.


I had the same problem - nonfunctioning lower mic upon reassembly after replacing dock connector. Took it apart again, removed and reinstalled the dock connector paying special attention to the mic. Still no luck upon reassembly the second time. Any ideas? Bad/damaged mic?


Removing the logic board seems to be unnecessary. I was able to replace the dock connector by simply removing the speakers and battery.

Also, it'd be nice if the dock connector came with a new moisture sensor.

ryebread02, · Reply

Definitely agree on the moisture sensor. I had to replace mine because it got real wet a few months ago. I was able to keep it working for a while, but then the mic eventually died.

The logic board removal was questionable for me. I felt like I didn't have to, but it made it much easier to properly reinstall the speaker enclosure.


I had a visibly crossed pin inside the doc connector. The phone would connect via USB, but no power to the battery. After replacing the connector I only get the USB connection graphic in the upper right corner of the phone instead of the lightening bolt. Could some kind of short happen to the electronics/battery because of the crossed pin? Could this be fixed?

I am going to try a different battery once I fix a stripped screw preventing the removal of the battery... doh.

Dave, · Reply

Success!!!!!!!!!! After drilling out the battery holding screw with a 1/16 reverse drill bit and replacing the battery the phone now works.


I succeeded replacing the dock connector on my iPhone 4. Everything works 100%. Accomplished the repair by removing the battery and speaker housing. Removing the processor was not necessary in my case.

mattcottrell, · Reply

This guide was very useful, i successfully installed the main mic on my iPhone 4, which for some reason just stopped working...now it works!! thanx ifixit.

Victor, · Reply

Ive been taking apart my phone on and off to attempt to fix a non working mic after this guide. Long story short, I purchased another dock connector but from amazon and it worked. Might of been a faulty piece, who knows. But I learned from all of this is carefull stripping the screws and catagorization helps a bunch when taking apart.

latino2785, · Reply

I also completing this repair without taking off the logic board. Word of warning however, the speakers are a PAIN to put back in without removing the logic board.

jenkinschristopher, · Reply

I was able to replace the charging dock fairly easily BUT I skipped some steps that seemed unnecessary: (1) I did NOT remove the battery. I simply disconnected the battery cable (performing steps 4 and 5). And, (2) I did NOT remove the logic board. I simply removed the dock ribbon cable from the logic board (performing steps 8, 9, and 10).

In summary, I skipped steps 6,7,12,13,14,15,16,17,18,19. I performed the rest of the steps as outline in the guide. Note that I was very careful and taking care to WORK AROUND the battery and logic board with very little difficulty. The phone works perfectly.

rlangella, · Reply

can you use one screwdriver for all the screws? or do you HAVE to use a variety of small screwdrivers?

Mario, · Reply

I used a single Phillips screwdriver for all of the Phillips head screws, and a single flathead screwdriver for the flat head screw.


Just got it, first try! Agree with other posters. Step 12-18 seem unnecessary. The home button connector is especially tricky. Think threading a needle then trapping it with a clip. Definitely have patience and tweezers when doing this. Good luck!

Jim JimD, · Reply

Thanks so much for the excellent and clear instructions! I took my phone to the Apple store Genius Bar where they couldn't fix as they didn't have the part to replace it and only offered a brand new phone at a cost.. how ridiculous considering they're supposed to be the Apple repair technicians. After wasting my time there I decided to have a go at it myself since the phone was out of warranty anyway, so I spent $13 on eBay for the part and fixed it myself with no hassles. Thanks a bunch!

Geoff Wall, · Reply

The steps and 12-19 are not necessary for replacing the dock connector on an iPhone 4! I edited that as a sidenote in the guide but someone took it away.

mrelwood, · Reply

why on earth does the description tell you to remove the main board? not necessary! (and it's not mentioned in the video...

Jayartibee, · Reply

Hello everyone I have a question in regards to this I replaced this part on my iPhone 4 and it caused my touch to stop working can anyone help me plz. I need my phone asap since this is my work phone. I already tried doing the hard reset by pressing the home and sleep button I already tried taking it apart and redoing the whole process and no luck. Any info will be greatlly appreciated thanks.

Jose Ruiz, · Reply

It might useful to use a white sheet of paper and to circle each screw and its dimension and an indication of the corresponding Ifixit guide step #. It is then much easier to rebuild.

revher, · Reply

Got my phone back to normal. Had to replace my dock connector due to some audio problems where it seemed to be locked in "dock-mode" due to a short-circuit causing my phone not to produce audio for music and other media from the internet.

Victor Emmanuel Erames, · Reply

Caution: New phones may contain T1 screw heads instead of Phillips.

ajg35, · Reply

any news on those screwdrivers? where can we buy them?


using something like the 18-compartment tray will GREATLY help with this one; there are over a dozen groups of parts. For re-assembly having a digital calipers to measure the 2.4 vs the 2.6mm screws also helps greatly.

awr, · Reply

My method for hardware management during delicate phone surgery is to take and print out on 8.5"x11' paper, one or more pictures of the open phone in various stages of disassembly, and then tape the screws to the appropriate spots on the pictures. Also write numbers on the pictures next the screws to indicate the order in which you removed them.


I did a successful surgery on my iPhone, be warned this is not for the faint of heart!

I've done iPod screen replacements, battery replacements, this is by far much more difficult and intricate.

Great write up! Thanks a million.

Jaysen Strange, · Reply

Couldn't even get both screws out of the bottom of the case. One was easy and other refuses to budge. Screws so small I can't see if it is turning or screw driver is properly seated. Sad I too have done screen replacements on other phones. Don't know any secrets to get the screw out

ckracht, · Reply

I also have a problem with seeing what is happening with some of those tiny little screws and parts. For other projects that I do, I use an Opti-Visor. It slips over your head and provides 10x magnification. ( You can find them on Amazon).

Yeah, it adds cost to the project and you would have to wait for delivery, but it sure makes a world of difference in seeing what you are working with / on.


On an early iPhone 4 I found that the #000 Phillips bit included in the 54 Bit Driver Kit didn't actually fit the screws. However the JIS #000 also in the kit did fit quite well. This is due to the JIS bits "thinner" design to prevent camming out of the slot. Otherwise everything went well. Looking forward to replacing the battery in my other phone that has the pentalobe screws. Glad I got the 54 Bit kit!

etler, · Reply

Use a vacuum duster and a sharp tool to pry out the dust, this can increase the volume insanely!

Dpairs, · Reply

At the very last second before insertion, the second new screw for the bottom popped out of my pliers! I dont' want to use the old ones, but I don't want to leave it with one screw. Can I get a replacement screw?

Otherwise it went together fine, and I figured out for myselkf that the contact needs to be bent,,,

loujudson, · Reply

What does the park that is gold and next to the 4.8mm screw for the antenna? Looks like I am missing that part and almost positive that is why I can't pick up or connect to any wifi signals. I have the screw and the antenna from another phone that is working and tried it on the broken phone and still doesn't work. Only thing different is that gold metal piece to the left of that 4.8 mm screw. Can I buy that part? how do I attach it?

Jay Pennington, · Reply

not able to unscrew

Naved Zaidi, · Reply

using suction cup with too much force breaks rear panel

lily einstein, · Reply

Remove the single 2.5 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board- for me this Phillips screw won't budge from its place have tried all the phillips combinations 000, 00, 0, 1 and the straight /slotted 1.5 mm but nothing. can some help me please purchased a replacement battery for my iPhone 4 but not able to do it just because of this screw.

Naved Zaidi, · Reply

I was going through the take apart and after reassembly, it seems to just sit there an power cycle. It's as though the battery is no longer working. Any thoughts as to what I may have done wrong?

Social Apples, · Reply

Use #000 fine screw driver!!!

bfbogaert, · Reply

Use an #000 fine screw driver to remove two screws from iPhone 4s!

bfbogaert, · Reply

There is a metal bracket that secures the connector, that will be removed before the conector is unfasten

poseido, · Reply

When I used a plastic opening tool to gently disconnect the battery connector from its socket, I accidently remove the socket too.. Now what? :( ......

odisseas, · Reply

Stuck on step 4 can't unscrew the battery screw. stopped trying as all i seem to be doing is damaging the screw any tips as to how to approach this?

Tazziii, · Reply

my phone doesnt have a screw that connects the battery to the logic bored...is that a problem?

sadie, · Reply

I didn't need to remove the battery !! why would you take the battery away, the motor can be removed easily with the battery in place, and the whole process would take less than 2 minutes if you exclude the battery steps

Mohammed Fahmy, · Reply

I have trouble with the screw: I bought my used and now opened it for the first time. The screw is totally messed up, I can't unscrew it because the screwdriver doesn't fit in the screw/doesn't unscrew it. What can I do?

dfrisch86, · Reply

There is a small black L-shaped bracket of some sort that tits between the battery connector and the motherboard socket, with a loop on one corner that sits betwen the riserand the battery connector. Remove this now, and do not forget to re install it on assembly.

stevesontheroad, · Reply

When reattaching this bracket make sure your Battery ribbon is already tucked underneath the battery with only the minimum clearance required. Then make sure the brackets overhang is over the battery ribbon. Dont try to slide it under the Ribbon.

crimney, · Reply

In Step 5 be EXTRA careful with the battery connector as the socket can come off extremely easy. This can mess up the replacement a little bit and cost you extra. Otherwise, this guide is excellent.

Good luck, fixers!

I fix(ed) it!

mateuszkus, · Reply

Just be careful when removing the battery with the plastic pull tab. On some units, they use so much glue that it's virtually impossible to take the battery.

In such an instance, you could use the iPod opening tool to assist (just be careful where you stick it!)

klubn, · Reply

use the iPod opening tool to pry gently under the battery from the outer edge of the phone and work towards the plastic tab. the tab is not actually attached to the battery itself, but a plastic sheet between the battery and inner frame. the adhesive on the battery tends to be under the edge of the battery nearest the center of the phone.

David Iwanicki, · Reply

Understand that the plastic pull tab is part of the phone. It sits under the battery like a tray and is not connected to the battery so it needs to stay in tact.

mattcfi, · Reply

once the iphone restarted, the battery was at 30%.

baldus, · Reply

This i think is the most diffucult part.

Because they use so much glue on it. I have to did this with so much force.

Glad that i didn't kill the circuit board when i took this out.

Shoung0690, · Reply

My battery was so firmly glued in, it took a long time to slowly pry it loose. Patience is the key to this process. I could see easily damaging the circuit board by using too much force. The plastic tab did not help at all.

The ribbon cable attaching the new battery to the battery connector clip is longer than the original. I clicked the clip into the socket first and then was very careful to fold the excess while putting the battery back in so the ribbon cable didn't kink. One kink in this could sever the battery leads.

drathbun, · Reply

My ribbon cable was also longer than the original. How did you get it to not kink while placing the batter back into the phone? That seems to be my only hang up at the moment


Piece of cake! The hardest part was being sure the outer pentalobe screws were actually turning and I wasn't stripping them. Battery was glued firmly in, so I loosened it from the outside instead of using the plastic pull-tab. I pre-bent the battery connector neck before putting it back in and had no problems with it fitting in. Getting the battery connector aligned with the antenna piece underneath was a bit fiddly. Got the case back on, put in the new screws, and powered the phone on without problem. Had 40% charge, all seems well. Yippee!

chezbuttons, · Reply

Do NOT use a spudger or similar type of prising tool to try lift up the battery. Instead, just warm up the whole area with a hot air gun or hair drier to soften the glue.

The reason why I say don't use an implement to try lift the battery is because far too many times I've seen punctured & bent batteries come in to this workshop that have to be thrown out for safety reasons. It only takes a grain of sand, or a burr on the spudger and you're risking a potential cell rupture and potential fire.

Just use a bit of heat ( not a lot! ) to soften up the glue and it'll come away with the plastic pull tab.

Paul L Daniels, · Reply

These instructions don't mention putting the 2.5mm screw back in. I found this very challenging because it is so short, so very difficult to line it up to get it back in the hole, and very easy to drop it inside the phone. Take care.

robshopping, · Reply

Non problem with reassembly - just took patience - my is that the phone now does not want to charge the battery. It shows taht the battery is dead and charger needs to be connected but does not charge?

What have I not done coreectly - or at least what can I check to determine the problem?


Richard Bebee, · Reply

err 2 of the grounding pins broke in the process of reinstallation.. how many do you reckon before wifi = 0

TomIstefanous, · Reply

Used all the steps the first time then only took off bottom end to get to dock connector the second and third time. iPhone charges properly but home button doesn't work. I tried reinserting "fragile" ribbon cable three times and I think it's in but home button still fails to work. Is this the only part that affects the home button or is there another connector that might have been reattached improperly? Thanks.

plink53, · Reply

Be sure to remove the film over the new microphone before sliding on the rubber cover! I missed it the first few times and could not understand — for the life of me — why the microphone wasn't working. It's easy to miss!

justinstayton, · Reply

I assembled my phone with the new dock and everything seemed to be working but I later noticed the phone only charges when you fiddle with the cable, the phone also can't be connected to any docks. Anything I can do to fix this? Or is it just a bad dock connector?

Jean Labuschagne, · Reply

cant get the lower antenea pluged back in

twhitelsu, · Reply

View Statistics:

Today: 268

This Week: 854

This Month: 4,413

All Time: 414,302