iPhone 3G Front Panel Replacement

The front panel and digitizer can be separated and replaced on the iPhone 3G.

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Edit Step 1 Display  ¶ 

  • Remove the two Phillips #00 screws from the dock-connector end of the iPhone.

  • Make sure to keep all the screws organized as you are taking the phone apart. They are different sizes.

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Remove the metal handle from the suction cup. It's easier and safer to grip the suction cup's base instead of the metal handle.

  • Be very careful when opening the iPhone so that the cables under the display are not severed.

  • There is a rubber gasket between the silver front bezel and black display assembly. A bit of force is required in this step to separate the iPhone's display assembly.

  • Use a small suction cup near the Home button to gently pull up the lower portion of the iPhone's display assembly.

  • If the display assembly is too damaged to allow the suction cup to adhere, tape with a strong adhesive such as duct tape may be used.

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • The display assembly is still connected to the iPhone by several cables, so don't try to remove it entirely just yet.

  • Rotate the display assembly up until it is at an angle of approximately 45 degrees.

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Continue to hold the display assembly with one hand, and use your other hand and a spudger to disconnect the black ribbon cable labeled "1."

  • Ribbon cable "1" is connected with a plug style connector. The block at the end of the cable is the plug which is simply pushed into a socket on the circuit board. No other locking mechanism is used.

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Rotate the display assembly up until it is roughly vertical. This will allow easier access for disconnecting the remaining cables.

  • Use a spudger to disconnect the black ribbon cable labeled "2."

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Ribbon cable "3" is held in place by a FPC style connector. You must unlock this connector before sliding the ribbon cable out. The locking mechanism is on the opposite side of where the cable is inserted - it swivels upwards 90 degrees. Use a plastic spudger to lift the locking mechanism.

  • The FPC locking latch is very delicate and is typically a different color than the body of the connector. (see the detail image of FPC connector open and closed)

  • Slide the ribbon cable out of the connector, and remove the display assembly from the iPhone.

  • It's impossible to properly reinsert a ribbon into an FPC connector unless the lock is disengaged. Make sure the locking latch is open when attaching/detaching the cable.

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Remove the single Phillips #00 screw from the corner of the display assembly.

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Remove the two Phillips #00 screws from the right side of the display assembly.

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Turn the display around, and if there is a thin strip of black tape on the edge of the display assembly, carefully peel it up.

  • Keeping the tape from sticking to itself can be tricky. We recommend placing the tape on a wax-coated piece of paper (any sticker backing will do).

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Remove the three Phillips #00 screws from the left side of the display assembly.

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Turn the display assembly over and again carefully insert a metal spudger between the two metal rails along the edge of the display assembly. Gently rotate the spudger to lift the LCD up from the glass.

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Separate the LCD and glass by sliding the LCD panel away from the ribbon cables on the glass.

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Edit Step 13 Front Panel  ¶ 

  • This is what should be left after removing the LCD.

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Be careful when using a heat gun in the forthcoming steps. Use it at a very low heat setting, and make sure not to melt the touch screen plastics or Home button. The metal frame tends to conduct heat very well so try to avoid touching these hot areas.

  • If the glass has shattered at the top or bottom be especially patient and gentle when removing fragments. In extreme cases you may have to pick off any glass shards that remain glued to the plastics.

  • Using a heat gun or hairdryer, heat the top left area of the touch screen.

  • Use your fingernails to slowly lift up the left corner. The touch screen plastics are held to the touch screen with adhesive. It may take some work to free the corners.

    • If it seems like too much force is being applied to lift the touch screen plastics, try using the heat gun again.

  • Heat and repeat for the right side.

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Once the top is free, use the heat gun to heat the sides of the touch screen.

  • Use a spudger to free the sides of the touch screen plastics.

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Heat the bottom corners with the heat gun.

  • Again, use your fingernails to free the corners.

  • Remove the touch screen plastics from the touch screen.

  • Remove as much adhesive residue with your fingernail or the spudger as possible.

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Place custom fit adhesive strips or double stick tape on the open areas of the touch screen plastics. Lift the custom adhesives straight off the backing paper and apply.

  • Once attached, remove the outside covering to expose the second adhesive layer. This layer is very thin and may take some patience to remove. Similarly, if you used double stick tape, make sure to peel off its outside layer before attaching the glass.

  • When reattaching the plastics to the glass, make sure the "#2" cable is routed as shown in the second picture.

  • Reattach the plastic frame to the glass. Pinch each corner for 60 seconds to allow the tape time to bond the two surfaces.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iPhone 3G device page.

Required Tools

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Metal Spudger

$2.95 · 38 In stock

Heat Gun

$24.95 · 50+ In stock

Small Suction Cup

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

Success! It took me quite abit longer than some of those above, but in under 3hrs, it was complete. I am totally satisfied; the only potential problem I've found is that the rubber originally covering the front panel glass and the front panel plastic on the side--i.e., the rubber filling in the gap between the glass and the metal bevel/bezel?sp?--had been partially destroyed during the repair. Now there are spots at the top and bottom where dust could potentially get into the internals more easily. As it is, I opened my phone and it was extremely dusty, so that if it worked well with that kind of dust, I suppose it'll be alright with some more. Besides, now I know how to open it up and clean it! Thanks iFixit! You saved me $140, which is what Apple would have charged to fix my screen.

ataraxiaone, · Reply

Everything worked except now my home button does not work, help please.

Chelsea, · Reply

Quote from Chelsea:

Everything worked except now my home button does not work, help please.

Is the front panel completely snapped into place? I believe there are some contacts on the front panel that have to touch contacts on the inside of the phone for the home button to work.

bryanboyer, · Reply

I have followed all the steps and the phone has turned on, BUT it wont let me slide to open. HELP!!

sally, · Reply

I'm assuming Sally found the problem to this issue of the phone working but I just had the same problem of no touch screen even though the phone and screen were working otherwise.

Re-open the phone and ensure Cable #2 just isn't attached properly. If this is loose or not correctly connected then the screen will come on but the touch screen won't work.

andrew,

All went smoothly when removing the glass but when removing cables, cable #3 appeared to break off at the attachment and the small plastic "comb" like cover came apart and it doesn't seem like it will be able to be re-attached.

Does anyone have experience with this? Should I continue with replacement or am I destined for a new phone? Help!

laura, · Reply

Just performed this repair on my wife's 3G and it worked great. I had to use strong tape because the glass was too fractured for the suction cup. Also, removing the old tape from under the glass is a must and I also beed of what appeared to be some sort of sealant.

gerenhill, · Reply

When performing Step 2, be sure not to harm the rubber gasket! Doing so will obviously break the seal it provides, which will quickly result in a "dusty" screen. Using the suction cup by itself should be enough to get the screen up. Once you can see a gap between screen and case, you can use spudger to apply leverage. (Not before, however.)

I ripped my gasket and received a dusty screen (dust trapped between LCD and glass) for my troubles. I'm looking for a screen protector that will cover that gap now.

joshbutcher, · Reply

THANK YOU SOOOOOOO MUCHHHHHH you saved my shattered phone!!! U dnt know how happy I am!!

sr099490, · Reply

Quote from bryanboyer:

Is the front panel completely snapped into place? I believe there are some contacts on the front panel that have to touch contacts on the inside of the phone for the home button to work.

What happens if those contacts break?

needsteel, · Reply

Especially for putting things back together, if you're over 40 I'd recommend something like this magnifying lamp http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Illuminated-... My eyes are hurting, but I did it! iFixit - would you consider throwing in a spare #00 screw or two with this kit? One of mine disappeared somewhere along the way - it'd be a nice little extra :-)

Paul Pival, · Reply

Beware when reattaching the lcd to the glass. The flex cable on it is much stronger than on the digitizer, and can slice right through the digitizer cable. I speak from experience of 5 minutes ago. Now I need another digitizer. FML.

alexplaysdrums, · Reply

After install the screen my iphone 3g stuck on apple logo.why?somebody pls help me..plz..

Firdaus, · Reply

Tengo un problema, y es que aproximadamente 3cm de la parte superior del touch screen no me funciona, no tiene sensibilidad... que podria ser el problema, talvez el conector #3, o hay que hacer cambio del touch screen

Espero su pronta respuesta...

I have a problem, and is about 3cm from the top of the touch screen did not work, has no feeling ... that could be the problem, maybe the connector # 3, you either need to change the touch screen

I await your prompt response ...

pitocho, · Reply

Used the suction cup to pull up the assembly and only the glas came up, I've repeated and only the glass connected to the assembly came up and i cant get the assembly out HELPPP!!

rebecka, · Reply

Tip: Stick a piece of double sided tape or regular tape sticky side up, taped down with two smaller pieces of tape on the end to hold it down on your work area to hold the screws. You can also place them on the tape in order you removed them so you remember which ones are which.

sharonlee, · Reply

Many 3G have #000 Phillips instead of #00 screws in the bottom.

CEF, · Reply

Press the metal spudger between the chrome bezel and the screen, than use the suction cup.

mauritscassee, · Reply

Quote from mauritscassee:

Press the metal spudger between the chrome bezel and the screen, than use the suction cup.

Using a metal spudger might damage the bezel and/or screen. It's definitely doable to separate the two without a metal spudger - I did it myself with no problems - but other iPhone display assemblies may be tougher than the one I took apart.

Miroslav Djuric, · Reply

When reassembling the display and bezel, how should one install the gasket? What happens if the gasket is damaged while the phone is being disassembled? Is there a replacement or some other fix?

yosarian, · Reply

Hello everyone -- what kind of adjustments, if any, can be made in this step to ensure that the display sits flush with the bezel around all edges when installed? On my iphone, the display is a tiny bit uneven when installed, i.e. the glass is ever so slightly higher than the bezel on the left side, while the glass it just a hair bit lower than the bezel on the right side. Thanks!

Bespin, · Reply

Success!

acav802, · Reply

Quote from Bespin:

Hello everyone -- what kind of adjustments, if any, can be made in this step to ensure that the display sits flush with the bezel around all edges when installed? On my iphone, the display is a tiny bit uneven when installed, i.e. the glass is ever so slightly higher than the bezel on the left side, while the glass it just a hair bit lower than the bezel on the right side. Thanks!

i had to spend quite a bit of time (30 minutes) on the hair dryer/heat up step to gently heat then gently loosen the adhesive holding the front glass to the rather fragile frame.

after successfully removing the glass (and shards of glass from my broken screen) i also had some clean up to do to remove the excess glue and adhesive from both the top and bottom sections and also the rails. i used the "leaf" end of the metal spudger (not the oar shaped end) for awhile scraping up stray bits but also used a Q-tip dipped in some isopropyl ("rubbing") alcohol which helped dissolve some of the goo left in the corners and the crevices of the rails.

perhaps your screen sits a bit akimbo because you still have some goo in those rails?

satanders, · Reply

I did every step but the screen doesn't work. Phone calls come in and its charging cause I hear the sounds. What might be the problme?

slidellboy, · Reply

I've done it. The most difficult part was to separate the broken glass from the plastic structure. I've damage the thinner rubber on the top.

Everythig works fine except the GPS. After the repair my gps is not working like it was before. Now rarely gets a constant signal, and the most part the signal is week. Maybe i have damage the antena ?

Any ideas ? It is possible that the adhesives strips can block the signal ?

Thank you very much.

pbrookei, · Reply

My screen was to busted-up for the suction cup to adhere, so I stuck a piece of (wide) clear packing tape to the front of the glass, which provided sufficient surface area for the cup to create a solid seal.

Time to complete the repair: ~60 minutes

kbarins, · Reply

Quote from slidellboy:

I did every step but the screen doesn't work. Phone calls come in and its charging cause I hear the sounds. What might be the problme?

Try connecting the phone to iTunes and doing a restore. I had the same problem and that fixed it

Jww285, · Reply

Hey guys in step two they used a suction cup to remove the screen. Yet my iphone screen is shattered all through out and the cup who stay due to air coming through the glass. Any ideas or work arounds?

streak1232, · Reply

Duct tape or 3m double sided tape should do the juob. I had the same problem and solved it with taking a piece of duct tape folding it onto itself and leaving about and inch still undone. I pushed the ens own onto the glass and used the center as a handle. Imagine two capital L's back to back to get an idea of what I am talking about.

Quote from streak1232:

Hey guys in step two they used a suction cup to remove the screen. Yet my iphone screen is shattered all through out and the cup who stay due to air coming through the glass. Any ideas or work arounds?

Shackscs, · Reply

The number one reason for removing the digitizer and LCD assembly is if the digitizer is smashed. Removing the broken glass from the mid frame is a delicate procedure and can be very tedious and time consuming. The rubber gasket and home button can be easily damaged if you are overzealous with a heat gun. The mid-frame section is now readily available as an orderable spare part and in my opinion you’ll get a much neater, cleaner repair if you replace this part too.

Quote from yosarian:

When reassembling the display and bezel, how should one install the gasket? What happens if the gasket is damaged while the phone is being disassembled? Is there a replacement or some other fix?

NoBox, · Reply

Hi all,

I have completed the step by step guide as above. I have assembled back together but the phone wont turn on? i can hear the beep when i connect a charger but im not getting anything on the display?

Any help appreciated

Jason, · Reply

i have tried everything but the screen will not budge, i have tried using the tool and also my suction cup and even tape nothing will work to seperate the screen! what should i do??

JJ246, · Reply

All went well, but I should mention that the force required to pull the screen off is much higher than I expected. I kept one hand wrapped around the top of the phone to make sure it didn't fly apart and damage the connectors to the logic board. The other trick is to get the suction cup as close as possible to the button to increase the leverage. In the end I taped over the home button so I could use the suction cup at the very bottom. Keep an eye on it and after a while of constant heavy pressure it should start to separate.

sharnett, · Reply

It is easier to separate the glass from the frame at the non cracked/broken end first. I kept my fingers near the end I was heating up - this is a good way to ensure that you are not overheating the plastic. I also used the low setting on the hair drier. This step wasn't too bad, it just takes time and care.

A final tip is there are some small spring contacts behind the home button that look easy to damage. Be careful not to catch these and bend them, especially when working to separate the glass from the frame. If these get broken the home button won't work.

sharnett, · Reply

Quote from slidellboy:

I did every step but the screen doesn't work. Phone calls come in and its charging cause I hear the sounds. What might be the problme?

try either cycling power or reinstall the cables to the display where they connect to the main board. cables weren't seated correctly for me and i experienced the same issue.

troy, · Reply

Quote from JJ246:

i have tried everything but the screen will not budge, i have tried using the tool and also my suction cup and even tape nothing will work to seperate the screen! what should i do??

Make sure the 2 screws are out of the bottom of the phone on either side of the dock connector. If they are, keep trying. Make sure you are lifting from the bottom end of the screen toward the home button. Does take a little bit of force but you'll get it. Keep in mind the connectors for the screen are toward the top end of the phone so don't let it get away from you or you could damage them. Just lift up like you're reading a book, using the top end as a pivot point.

troy, · Reply

I tried removing the assembly and only got the glass to come up along with cable #3 coming disconnected.. Therefore i cannot get anything connected! Please help!!!!!

nathan, · Reply

I had exactly the same problem. I persisted and found that, after the connectors were properly seated, I had to 1) completely install the screen, including the screws and 2) perform an iPhone reset. To perform the reset, hold the wake/sleep button (on the top) while at the same time holding the home button (on the screen). Hold them until the apple logo is displayed on the screen (approximately 10 seconds). After the apple logo came on the screen, everything was look'n good! I hope this works for you; i was bummed, not becuase i would have had to spend another $99 but because ATT automatically extends one's contract every time one buys a new iPhone, even if it's a replacement. Good luck!

stevenkooper, · Reply

CAUTION! My 16GB 3G has a cable glued to the bottom left side of the LCD. This cable is marked with a 4 in step 3. There is no way you can open the the screen 45 degrees if your cable is the same!

Those of you who end up with no screen probably ripped the ribbon cable just as I did. This is a huge omission!

I have pictures of the ripped cable if anyone needs clarification.

postnospam, · Reply

Clarification to the note above.

On further inspection, cable 4 wasn't glued to the back of the LCD. It just bonded itself there after a year of use.

If this happens, you'll need to replace the dock connector as well.

Good luck!

postnospam, · Reply

It strange for me, i opened my iPhone 3G and found something that doesn't apear on your descriptions, on the bottom of the screen just after opening it, there seems to have a connector, maybe it is only some glue that makes it stick to the screen or maybe it realy is a connector which is why i don t want to go any further without asking.

Could anyone help me?

Quote from postnospam:

CAUTION! My 16GB 3G has a cable glued to the bottom left side of the LCD. This cable is marked with a 4 in step 3. There is no way you can open the the screen 45 degrees if your cable is the same!

Those of you who end up with no screen probably ripped the ribbon cable just as I did. This is a huge omission!

I have pictures of the ripped cable if anyone needs clarification.

jonathan raillard, · Reply

I have the same problem. I change my husband`s iPhone lcd but i also cannot see anything but i can hear that it`s charging. I tried to open it again just to be sure that its connected. but still not working.Anybody can help?

Amelia Westergaard, · Reply

Quote from pbrookei:

Everythig works fine except the GPS. After the repair my gps is not working like it was before. Now rarely gets a constant signal, and the most part the signal is week. Maybe i have damage the antena ?

Not sure if you are still following this thread, but I came across this while trying to fix a buddies phone. We found out when we re-opened his phone after replacing the glass that the GPS antenna had gotten disconnected when he did the repair. We simply snapped the connector back on, and VOILA, GPS works again. I hope this helps. The connector is in the top left corner of the board, and on his phone was labeled connection 6.

Jon, · Reply

or try the suction cup of you iPhone-carkit (i used a navigon carkit) - worked out quite well!

matthias, · Reply

Just did this last week for my GF iPhone awesome results. only problem i found so far is the new adhesive for the front panel wont stick very well. dont know if its a let it set type of adhesive but if i have to replace it again i dont know if ill be able to get the front panel/lcd frame out of the phone.

greyboost89, · Reply

I replaced my cracked screen and my damaged LCD screen and after I put it all back together, the iPhone turns on and the screen looks great, but the touch screen does not respond at all. I opened it up about 3 more times and unhooked and reattached all the connectors to the motherboard but still no luck. Does anyone know what I should do??

CapeCodKwassa, · Reply

Gotta question. Can i remove my digitizer from the screen and attach it to another glass? ( Digitizer works ) just dont want to buy another one

amaan, · Reply

Quote from Miroslav Djuric:

Using a metal spudger might damage the bezel and/or screen. It's definitely doable to separate the two without a metal spudger - I did it myself with no problems - but other iPhone display assemblies may be tougher than the one I took apart.

Sometimes using the metal spudger is necessary-- my screen was entirely too shattered for the suction cup to hold. I slowly pried it open, and yes, there was slight damage to the plastic.

owenscott, · Reply

Put tape over any part of the screen that is cracked. This will keep the glass from falling out and keep your work area neat and clean.

Elliot, · Reply

When I applied the suction cup, the screen came loose from the display assembly, the display assembly remained in the phone (the screen had been replaced once before, so probably the adhesive used then was not as strong as the original adhesive). I had to use the metal spudger to separate the display assembly from the phone. Worked fine.

pauldavidgill, · Reply

the lifting of the front assembly from the silver bezel would be easier if you are heating the silver bezel with an hair dryer carefully.

because at older IPhones some mess will stuck between the bezel and the gasket AND if glas would be broken it will be a little bigger as the unbroken glas.

And heating the front assembly carefully makes it easier to peel of the glas from the assembly

Guenter Brauer, · Reply

Be sure the silver bezel stays attached to the bottom plastic "tub"; if it is pulled up, a 2 wire thin film around the lower left will sever.

paulbaclace, · Reply

Ok this was not too difficult but not for the faint at heart either. I did run into three problems:

1) I broke one of the connectors that supply power/information to the home button :(.

2) The display works but the buttons do not match up to what I press. If I press the 7 button, I get either the 3 or the 9 button, when I press the 3 button, I get the cancel button, etc.

3) I broke te little white piece that secures piece (3) to the board. Not sure if this ithe reason I am having problems as listed in number 2 above.

Any idea what I can do to fix these problems?

Shackscs, · Reply

I got all the connectors in but the screen is black i can fell the iPhone vibrating but i cant see anything anybody knows what to do?

johs96, · Reply

For those of you with a non-responsive home button, I was able to fis mine after watching this youtube video (production values aside):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZOZp37ON...

The gist is that you gently lift two contacts on the underside of the front panel so that they make better contact with two metal spots on the dock component. Hope this helps.

Jesse Levitt, · Reply

I had a lot more joy using a sharpened bamboo skewer that all of the different shaped spudgers I bought from Menda Tools. My home made spudger is thinner and fits into the confined spaces in the phone better.

cheongi, · Reply

The connector pops up vertically away from the board.

ifi91745, · Reply

The connector pops up vertically away from the board.

ifi91745, · Reply

I'm unable to get the ribbon back into the connector also. Is there a trick to it that someone can share?

bbozsik, · Reply

Quote from bbozsik:

I'm unable to get the ribbon back into the connector also. Is there a trick to it that someone can share?

You must understand that there is a tiny ribbon keeper (for lack of a better name) that prys up from the direction shown in the picture... If you didn't see it you probably got the ribbon out by pulling, instead of lifting the keeper tab. Look very closely and you will see this tab... lift it up as shown in the picture and insert the ribbon cable, then press the tab back down which locks the cable in place.

Splzeug, · Reply

I can't understand how No 3 gets in place and your discription doesn't help.

classe, · Reply

Quote from Splzeug:

You must understand that there is a tiny ribbon keeper (for lack of a better name) that prys up from the direction shown in the picture... If you didn't see it you probably got the ribbon out by pulling, instead of lifting the keeper tab. Look very closely and you will see this tab... lift it up as shown in the picture and insert the ribbon cable, then press the tab back down which locks the cable in place.

Thanks for the reply. Now that made more sense the original directions.

bbozsik, · Reply

what if the micro small plastic clip breaks off? as mine did.. :( what do you recommend?

BigMikesWilly, · Reply

Cable #1 is part of the LCD, and is not on the new panel assembly until the LCD is attached to it. So don't worry that you got the wrong part because there is only 2 cables on it initially.

Reply about broken tab on cable #3. I would try using a small piece of clear cellophane(scotch) tape. After getting the cable in the connector, use your third and fourth hands to put a small pre-cut piece of tape on the top of the cable and on to the top of the connector. which should hold it in place until you get it the rest of the way together. I read a note that some non-American models do not have a lock on this piece, so hopefully it will stay in place after assembly.

GTE,

Quote from BigMikesWilly:

what if the micro small plastic clip breaks off? as mine did.. :( what do you recommend?

My plastic tab was white. I couldn't get it to rotate up, so I just pulled the cable out. And then of course I could not get it back in. So I tried to rotate the tab up again using a small flat screwdriver. For my first attempt, I stuck the screwdriver in where the cable is supposed to go and gently lifted up. That just broke a little of the plastic off the tab. For my next attempt, I stuck the screwdriver under the side of the tab and gently lifted. Again, the plastic just started to break. I quickly pushed it back down with my thumb, pretending nothing had happened. I pictured myself walking back to the apple store to buy a new iPhone. :-( The stress was making me burn up. I actually had to take my shirt off at this point. Then I spent the next 5 minutes slowly carefully wiggling the cable back into place without lifting the tab. I put cables 2 and 1 back in and put the phone back together. I crossed my fingers and pressed the power button. It worked.

jstone, · Reply

Thanks, I just used this tutorial to fix my phone. The screen was popped out at the top edge, and I really didn't want to drive to the Apple Store. www.ifixit.com rocks.

Garritt, · Reply

PLEASE READ:

Do not try prying anything from the top or sides.

Ribbon #3 slides in from the TOP (the black end), but the lock is on the BOTTOM (the white end).

On the BOTTOM, you can open the lock easily by lifting the bottom edge upward... it flips straight up.

With the lock open, insert the ribbon cable into the top, black end. You may need to push slightly (I used a tiny flathead) to get it in as far as possible.

Then, just rotate the lock back down into place. You might need to use a small tool, but it's very easy.

Here is a picture of the connector.

PileOfMush, · Reply

And here's another picture of just the circuit board, top of the phone is on the left.

You should be able to see the connector for #3, but it's not labeled.

http://s1.guide-images.ifixit.com/igi/ZC...

PileOfMush, · Reply

And in this picture of the 3GS, the colors are inverted... the top is white and the lock is black.

http://s1.guide-images.ifixit.com/igi/hs...

PileOfMush, · Reply

Failed :(

I didn't found the way to lift and broke in 2 the connector for #3. I try to connect 1, 2 &3 but iPhone doesn't start anymore.

Very nice sunday indeed...

marcus46, · Reply

Quote from BigMikesWilly:

what if the micro small plastic clip breaks off? as mine did.. :( what do you recommend?

Just like mine :(

Danfog, · Reply

Quote from Splzeug:

You must understand that there is a tiny ribbon keeper (for lack of a better name) that prys up

Noooooo, this is for 3GS only. dont try to pry the 3G ribbon holder, it will break. ask me how i know :(

That comment should be edited in bold "3GS only" before more people break their connectors

tware, · Reply

Quote from PileOfMush:

PLEASE READ:

Do not try prying anything from the top or sides.

Ribbon #3 slides in from the TOP (the black end), but the lock is on the BOTTOM (the white end).

On the BOTTOM, you can open the lock easily by lifting the bottom edge upward... it flips straight up.

now I understand.. the pic is of the 3GS, but this is correct for the 3G. Hard to visualize, but the lock is opposite of where the ribbon went in. Doh.

tware, · Reply

I successfully completed the project, but have one issue. Looking at the iPhone 3G (vertically) the whole right side of the screen linearly about about a quarter of an inch from the edge, will not respond to my touch. Thus, making letter 'o','p', 'l', and 'back space' unresponsive when pressing.

This is entirely a new issue...even with a cracked screen like my original was, it still responded to all touches.

My only guess is that the ribbon wasn't all the way in, but from the looks of your diagram, I believe it is.

Any help would be great. Thanks.

Yokalow, · Reply

Hi there.

I think I also got a problem with reversing step 6. Tab is open and I tried to get in the ribbon cable. How far back in do I have to push it? There is a white line with an arrow. Is that how far? I tried and tried but can't get it back that far... and now the display remains black. The phoen does sync with iTunes when attached to my Mac - so I guess that I only have a problem with the display.

Please help!

Thank's

Phil, · Reply

Quote from Phil:

I can even take a screenshot (Home and Sleep) and download it to iPhoto. It is a black pic...

HELP!!!! PLEASE!!!!

OK, this information might help some of you. My problem is solved. What happened?

I turned on my iPhone by accident during repair. So it was switched on when I reatached all the connectors. My guess is that the display of the iPhone is simly no "plug and play" component that can be attached while the device is running.

As I wrote in my previous postings: the Phone was running after repair, but the display remained dark. Home and Sleep buttons worked and so I waited until the battery was empty and the Phone turned itself off. After that I charged it and then I already saw the "low battery" screen - I never was so happy to see this screen in my life before!

When the iPhone was ready with all the booting it worked perfectly again.

What a nice day after all the tears.... :-)

Phil, · Reply

just finished the whole process and finally got it to work. By far the hardest part was getting the #2 ribbon to snap back in & know where to place the #3 ribbon. Just trial & error, and it finally worked.

FYI. Instead of using a spudger I gently pulled the glass top from the bottom (after I had removed the 2 bottom screws & gotten the 2 pieces separated) & ribbons 1 & 2 just popped out. I thought I had broken or torn them at first since I didn't see that might happen. I had that 'oh crap' moment u get when something happens that's not specifically mentioned in the directions.

at first when i put it all back together after the glass was replaced it came on and the home button worked, as did the on/off button & sound. But could NOT use the touch screen. So I had to figure out how the 3 ribbons worked. The #1 ribbon snapped in without a problem, but I had to keep sliding around the #2 ribbon and pushing down gently until it felt secured.

A suction cup is the best way to get the glass off the casing. I had a pry tool but didn't need it. This job is not easy & is not for the faint of heart.

dave, · Reply

Quote from Danfog:

Just like mine :(

OK I broke the little black 'ribbon lock' off too. (sinking feeling). Then I tried to wiggle ribbon three in to the white connector - - then I realized it goes UNDER the white connector. I was trying to wedge it on top of the white connector, and under the black ribbon lock. I managed to get it under the white connector as securely as I could. Then I had to even-more-carefully put connectors 1 & 2 back on. Voila. Power up - - - almost everything works. Only thing still questionable is hearing phone thru the earpiece - - have to use speakerphone . . .

bobroch, · Reply

Quote from bobroch:

OK I broke the little black 'ribbon lock' off too. (sinking feeling). Then I tried to wiggle ribbon three in to the white connector - - then I realized it goes UNDER the white connector. I was trying to wedge it on top of the white connector, and under the black ribbon lock. I managed to get it under the white connector as securely as I could. Then I had to even-more-carefully put connectors 1 & 2 back on. Voila. Power up - - - almost everything works. Only thing still questionable is hearing phone thru the earpiece - - have to use speakerphone . . .

i have exactly the same as you, i hope the speaker does not rely on that small connector!

tommy williams, · Reply

Quote from tommy williams:

i have exactly the same as you, i hope the speaker does not rely on that small connector!

does anyone know if this is vital, if so where can you get the small ribon keeper from?

I would ask if someone can reply ASAP as my iPhone is unsuable really!

Many thanks

Tommy

tommy williams, · Reply

Quote from Phil:

OK, this information might help some of you. My problem is solved. What happened?

I turned on my iPhone by accident during repair. So it was switched on when I reatached all the connectors. My guess is that the display of the iPhone is simly no "plug and play" component that can be attached while the device is running.

As I wrote in my previous postings: the Phone was running after repair, but the display remained dark. Home and Sleep buttons worked and so I waited until the battery was empty and the Phone turned itself off. After that I charged it and then I already saw the "low battery" screen - I never was so happy to see this screen in my life before!

When the iPhone was ready with all the booting it worked perfectly again.

What a nice day after all the tears.... :-)

Thank you for this post! :)

Same thing happened to me. Accidentally turned on the phone during the repair and I didn't understand why it wouldn't work after I attached the screen. Came on here and read your post. My phoned was hooked up to iTunes so it could see it was working. Did a hard reset (power and home button held until I could see iTunes dropping connection to the phone, then let both buttons go). Waited a sec, powered on and held my breath. After 2 seconds, the familiar apple logo popped up. Man, I'm so happy now. Was my first iPhone screen replacement :)

Damien, · Reply

Replaced the the touch screen and now the phone earpiece no longer work. everything else works but not the ear speaker. A cable might not be connected. any advice.

Dinowarrior18, · Reply

Quote from bobroch:

OK I broke the little black 'ribbon lock' off too. (sinking feeling). Then I tried to wiggle ribbon three in to the white connector - - then I realized it goes UNDER the white connector. I was trying to wedge it on top of the white connector, and under the black ribbon lock. I managed to get it under the white connector as securely as I could. Then I had to even-more-carefully put connectors 1 & 2 back on. Voila. Power up - - - almost everything works. Only thing still questionable is hearing phone thru the earpiece - - have to use speakerphone . . .

I have that problem but did not break anything. the cable slide out as the instruction and slide back in need advice asap.

Dinowarrior18, · Reply

i had a problem with step 6 - during taking off the ribbon cable 3 i happen to brake the locking lach, actually the right side of the frame. now the iphone is not starting. is there anything i can do more??

zuzia, · Reply

When you remove the display/digitizer assembly from the phone, handle it carefully, ensuring that you do not touch the two bent metal tabs that are part of the button. They are extremely fragile and will break off if pushed down.

Robb Toliver, · Reply

I have to agree. Step six is not easy to "reverse." I had difficulty getting ribbon 3 in place, and I understood where to place it. I grasped the ribbon with some forceps to slide it in, but given the tiny space, this was tricky. I'm not sure if it is in place properly, or scratched, or what. But the earpiece does not work properly, and I cannot reliably place or receive calls now (bad signal?). What sort of tool would help get this little piece in place properly??

plansdowne, · Reply

Don't try to unlock the cable 3 THERE'S NO LOCK on the cable 3 on my iPhone 3GS, just slide the cable upside. Almost broke mine, don't try to "unlock", there's no lock actually!

Victor, · Reply

Victor, there most definitely is a lock. The latch pivots up 90 degrees and then the cable slides out just as described. I have done this with several 3GS phones. I don't know what happened to yours, but you risk breaking your cable if you don't open the lock.

flyingryan,

I should add that you can't properly reseat the cable unless it is unlocked when you put it back. Look closely at the picture with closeup of it open and closed. It's a very small latch but it's very important.

flyingryan,

I opened 2 iPhones, one is a 3G and other is a 3GS, both doesn't have the lock, just a slot without any lock, the ribbon cable detach easily, and both is working fine. I can open it again and take a picture.

Victor,

I tried several times to manually plug the ribbon cable #3 without success. But what worked for me was using tweezers, pinching not the golden end part but the black flat cord and pushing it quite firmly (but of course in the hole).

anonymous 6212, · Reply

The locking latch swivels up, away from the board. The ribbon pulls up towards the top of the phone. When putting the phone back together, if this ribbon is not in all the way, the small speaker at the top of the phone will not work (the speakerphone will work, because that uses different speakers). Getting the ribbon to slide in all the way was difficult. I had to use a pair of tweezers to slide it in all the way.

ifi91745, · Reply

Using the PH000 bit is easier

willfarino, · Reply

I can't get the screws out from step 8. They look rusted on the other side....any ideas?

Suzy Colpitts, · Reply

Thanks for the comments guys and gals, I spent the WHOLE DAY trying to change the screen assembly of my 3GS now using the 3G which has some issues, if I could only unlock my 4G would be great.... Well it began ok got the strip 3 in then could not get the ones that snap into place, so then the strip 3 loosened itself and wound up breaking the snap to it, till then no problem, placed scotch tape closed the phone and to my sadness the home button was not working so onto opening the phone again and again. The phone was perfect with the exception of the home button, so I kept on trying and trying to fix the problem while the phone was on the whole time. The screen responded about 5 times with all the touch options working, fixed my volume buttons and home buttons but the darn assembly came with a defective home button and now my 3GS does not respond at all :( the screen went from perfect the to white and then to black with no response connecting it to iTunes ): had many notes and voice ideas on that phone, got

sonicalchemy, · Reply

all the videos out of the 32 GB old bootroom model, white. Have no idea what happened because I have changed screens and assemblies over 8 times on 2G, 3GS 3xs and 3G 4xs. I really need the data inside the phone, is there any way possible to retrieve it? Does the logic board or another part need to be replaced? I should have left the broken screen, at least it was working perfectly, but now it's just awaiting some compassionate people that understand what could have happened, I even put back the broken screen and that's not working either. Maybe because it was on this al, happened but it would turn on w/o any probs the 1st couple times, just the darn home button, oh and I booted into safe mode turned on Skype by accident and could not get out of the safe mode, so the phone 3GS is non responsive in safe mode ): I really need to get the data out of there. Never thought that changing the screen would give me so much trouble. If anyone can help me out, bless you all eternally, if not,it had to be this way....

sonicalchemy, · Reply

I forgot to put the tape back on. What's its purpose?

Thanks

jdangler, · Reply

I'm not seeing any tape....

jaktup20, · Reply

There isn't any tape on mine either

I'm guessing its not a big deal and you other guys should not worry about putting it back on if you don't want to.

Ryan Hollis,

Quote from jdangler:

I forgot to put the tape back on. What's its purpose?

Thanks

I also forgot to put the tape back on. I'm not cracking this thing open again to replace it. I don't think it's entirely necessary. There are already screws in place to hold the LCD to the faceplate.

Kevin, · Reply

On iPhone 3GS no black strip along side.

gregorymosby, · Reply

If the tape is in poor condition, replace with black PVC electrical tape. By sticking the PVC tape to sticker or book covering adhesive backing paper, it can be more easily cut to size/shape as desired.

cheongi, · Reply

I think the tpae may haev a role in dust sealing and anti-vibration noise. I put extra tape in the spots where I think dust has penetrated under the glass by keeping my iPhone in my pocket. (Will have to double check if there a spots earthing contact is needed.)

cheongi, · Reply

If you have trouble removing the screws, carefully examine the back of the screws under a light. If there are blue traces of Loctite, you may need to use the tip of a soldering iron to briefly heat the screw so that you can remove it.

anonymous 629, · Reply

it is the right side not the left!

filzstiftman, · Reply

Be careful not to touch the gold prongs protruding from the home button area. They are very delicate and can easily break off with a careless swipe of a hand. Without them, the home button will not work.

AshD, · Reply

While replacing my display, I set the display assembly down and managed to bend back one of the contacts to the Home Button which you can kind of see in this picture. This kept the Home Button from working when I reassembled it. I successfully bent it back and the button works now.

jamesbrooks27, · Reply

I found step 11 a bit confusing. From the photo it really wasn't clear how the rails should be separated. And the instruction to "..insert a metal spudger between the two metal rails along the edge of the display assembly.." didn't really help.

I can't really describe what I did - once again, this is one of those cases where the photo should be clearer - but suffice to say that you need to closely examine the rail assembly, look at where the "joins" are between the rails and use the spudger accordingly. I found that gently levering the outer rail outwards away from the inner rail and slightly lifteng the display at the same time allowed me to separate the two rails and release the display assembly. Once it's starting to pop out of the rails you can slide it away from the ribbon cable end of the phone and remove it.

midahed, · Reply

Also, be VERY careful separating the LCD from the glass. Even though I worked extremely careful (at least I thought I did), it still got damaged probably by applying a little too much force with the spudger to separate the metal rails. It's till working, but one can clearly see the damage that looks like a crack. Other than that, the replacing worked well.

Reinhard, · Reply

I didn't have a metal spudger, so very gently used a small flat blade screwdriver under the metal screw hole tab at the bottom of the lcd to lever the lcd out. It didn't need a lot of pressure, but too much and the tab may bend.

Rob James, · Reply

when reattaching the LCD< be VERY careful to not cut the cables to the digitizer/screen as you snap it back as I assembled it, the flat thin ribbon cable got cut/ripped the cable very easily.

deanmcrobie, · Reply

so the kit I got sent me all the tools I need including the glass panel but step 12 said to separate the lcd from the glass by separating the 2 metal rails. The new glass I got does not have the other set of rails, the speaker or the button. How do you separate that stuff from the old glass assembly?

happydaisey2001, · Reply

I first tried this with a hairdryer for a good 40 seconds and it did not get hot enough to budge the adhesive. 5 seconds with a heat gun on low and the glass separated easily. Be careful with the heat gun, go slowly and only heat small portions at a time but it works much better than a hairdryer.

bcs909, · Reply

Quite frankly the hardest part about this process is removing the old adhesive. Take your time!!!

We used the hair dryer and heated the glass side and pryed as I went and it all came up.

Shackscs, · Reply

Another thing that was not in the manual, that really should be in the manual. I powered off the phone before the install, and then powered it on at the last step of attaching the cables, to verify all was connected fine. Then powered off again, closed up the case and powered on again.

BUT the display was clunky and unresponsive, which was strange to me because it was perfectly functional with the shattered glass. I had to power off and on to get it to respond, and even then pressing buttons on the screen was still clunky and unresponsive. Finally I went to troubleshoot the display at Apple (http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1737) where I reset it and then reset all settings. After that the display responded perfectly. I basically followed these steps from the above link:

If iPhone won't turn on, or the display freezes or doesn't respond

See iPhone and iPod touch: Frozen and unresponsive for information on addressing these symptoms.

iPhone OS 2.x and earlier: Press and hold the Home button until the application quits.

iPhone OS 3.x and later: Press and hold the Sleep/Wake button until the red slider appears, then press and hold the Home button until the application quits.

If that doesn't work, turn iPhone off and turn it on again. Press and hold the Sleep/Wake button on top of iPhone for a few seconds until a red slider appears, and then slide the slider. Then press and hold the Sleep/Wake button until the Apple logo appears.

If that doesn't work, reset iPhone. Press and hold the Sleep/Wake button and the Home button at the same time for at least ten seconds, until the Apple logo appears.

If iPhone continues to freeze or not respond after you reset it

Reset iPhone settings. From the Home screen choose Settings > General > Reset > Reset All Settings. All your preferences are reset, but no data or media is deleted.

If that doesn't work, reset iPhone. Press and hold the Sleep/Wake button and the Home button at the same time for at least ten seconds, until the Apple logo appears restore the iPhone software. See Backing up, updating and restoring your iPhone and iPod touch software.

bcs909, · Reply

Step 14 is missing: insert small spudger or screwdriver on left and right sides to separate the display panel from the metal backing plate.

Pepper, · Reply

I have been repairing iPhones now for 2 years. This procedure is a waste of time and money, spend the extra 15 bucks and get the glass with the digitizer, you don't have to spend 3 hours to replace your broken glass because you spent 2 of them separating glass from glass. by the way, good luck getting the new glass on with out a scratch or piece of lint/dust in between.

DAR, · Reply

Quote from DAR:

I have been repairing iPhones now for 2 years. This procedure is a waste of time and money, spend the extra 15 bucks and get the glass with the digitizer, you don't have to spend 3 hours to replace your broken glass because you spent 2 of them separating glass from glass. by the way, good luck getting the new glass on with out a scratch or piece of lint/dust in between.

So my iphone decided to get the "white" screen of death. I have opened it up and cant find anything to be broken. What or how could I diagnose the issue in an attempt to purchase the right parts?

FFPENGUIN, · Reply

Quote from FFPENGUIN:

So my iphone decided to get the "white" screen of death. I have opened it up and cant find anything to be broken. What or how could I diagnose the issue in an attempt to purchase the right parts?

Mine too. Does your iPhone still work?

Mine got wet and I dried it for days in a bag of rice. Eventually it started working again and I managed to have iTunes recognize my iPhone once more. I restored it and now the phone works again. Calls etc. all sound brilliant, but it has got a bright, white screen. Underneath I can make out the clock and all the symbols, and it recognizes my finger gestures instantly, but the screen remains bright white with gray horizontal lines/flickerings. I opened up my iPhone yesterday and this didn't resolve the issue. Would this be an LCD problem or can someone tell me what to do?

Daan Zijlstra, · Reply

Quote from bcs909:

Another thing that was not in the manual, that really should be in the manual. I powered off the phone before the install, and then powered it on at the last step of attaching the cables, to verify all was connected fine. Then powered off again, closed up the case and powered on again. BUT the display was clunky and unresponsive, which was strange to me because it was perfectly functional with the shattered glass. I had to power off and on to get it to respond, and even then pressing buttons on the screen was still clunky and unresponsive. Finally I went to troubleshoot the display at Apple (http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1737) where I reset it and then reset all settings. After that the display responded perfectly. I basically followed these steps from the above link: If iPhone won't turn on, or the display freezes or doesn't respond See iPhone and iPod touch: Frozen and unresponsive for information on addressing these symptoms. iPhone OS 2.x and earlier: Press and hold the Home button until the application quits. iPhone OS 3.x and later: Press and hold the Sleep/Wake button until the red slider appears, then press and hold the Home button until the application quits. If that doesn't work, turn iPhone off and turn it on again. Press and hold the Sleep/Wake button on top of iPhone for a few seconds until a red slider appears, and then slide the slider. Then press and hold the Sleep/Wake button until the Apple logo appears. If that doesn't work, reset iPhone. Press and hold the Sleep/Wake button and the Home button at the same time for at least ten seconds, until the Apple logo appears. If iPhone continues to freeze or not respond after you reset it Reset iPhone settings. From the Home screen choose Settings > General > Reset > Reset All Settings. All your preferences are reset, but no data or media is deleted. If that doesn't work, reset iPhone. Press and hold the Sleep/Wake button and the Home button at the same time for at least ten seconds, until the Apple logo appears restore the iPhone software. See Backing up, updating and restoring your iPhone and iPod touch software.

I thought my wifes phone was a goner - the reset you advised did the trick. Thanks

Walter, · Reply

if your gentle you wont need any heat source. I was able to remove my old screen without any heat. THAT SAID BE VERY CAREFUL.

Also a question for everyone... Any ideas how to get the screen to sit flatter (if thats a word). I have replaced the screen however the glass (when re assembled) seems to sit a bit higher.

FFPENGUIN, · Reply

My Screen was totally white... the only thing working was the digitizer. I ended up replacing the LCD after some help from a guy at the local ATT Store (we trouble shot the LCD... he had extra go figure). I would probably say look into just the LCD or the entire top assembly (glass, digitizer, lcd, ect). I dont know for sure but I would thing that water probably destroyed something in there.

Quote from Daan Zijlstra:

Mine too. Does your iPhone still work?

Mine got wet and I dried it for days in a bag of rice. Eventually it started working again and I managed to have iTunes recognize my iPhone once more. I restored it and now the phone works again. Calls etc. all sound brilliant, but it has got a bright, white screen. Underneath I can make out the clock and all the symbols, and it recognizes my finger gestures instantly, but the screen remains bright white with gray horizontal lines/flickerings. I opened up my iPhone yesterday and this didn't resolve the issue. Would this be an LCD problem or can someone tell me what to do?

FFPENGUIN, · Reply

I changed everything but the mother board on my iPhone and when I turn it on it gets stuck on the apple logo. I think I may have done something wrong when putting the screen together because when I pull a complete screen assembly off a working iPhone and put it on the one I am repairing, everything works fine. I tried pinpointing the problem to see which part might be not functioning. I pulled the new LCD and put it into a functioning iPhone and it booted up fine. Can it be that the ribbon on the digitizer is messed up? Is my connection faulty?

Les, · Reply

I totally agree with you. When removing the glass, you risk breaking a rubber seal which will allow dust to penetrate. If you get that combo of digitizer+glass and all the frames in one, you get new home buttons, flex cables, speaker and sensor as well. I am going for that one as I feel this step is too laborious.

Quote from DAR:

I have been repairing iPhones now for 2 years. This procedure is a waste of time and money, spend the extra 15 bucks and get the glass with the digitizer, you don't have to spend 3 hours to replace your broken glass because you spent 2 of them separating glass from glass. by the way, good luck getting the new glass on with out a scratch or piece of lint/dust in between.

Riz, · Reply

Quote from DAR:

I have been repairing iPhones now for 2 years. This procedure is a waste of time and money, spend the extra 15 bucks and get the glass with the digitizer, you don't have to spend 3 hours to replace your broken glass because you spent 2 of them separating glass from glass. by the way, good luck getting the new glass on with out a scratch or piece of lint/dust in between.

This guide is how to separate the glass from the frame. The glass has the digitizer on it. We aren't separating glass from glass.

Nicholas Ouimet, · Reply

Quote from FFPENGUIN:

So my iPhone decided to get the "white" screen of death. I have opened it up and cant find anything to be broken. What or how could I diagnose the issue in an attempt to purchase the right parts?

Check cable number 1

Gerhard Muhlbauer, · Reply

Before you part the rails & slide the LCD out, ALWAYS check you have all the screws out. I accidentally left one in and as a result the lcd twisted slightly on this & was ruined. (bleeding around area of screw & white screen on rest). Never apply too much force or twist LCD as you slide it out as its VERY fragile and expensive to replace.

Paul baskeyfield, · Reply

Read the steps before, do NOT memorize them!

Be prepared. RIGHT tools, parts, proper workspace, no disturbance for the next hour.

Patience!

Be "OCD" cautious and systematic!

Study carefully the positions of every little tabs, holes, screws, cables... Take notes, mark your screws, etc...

Proceed like a neuro-surgeon. Very gently, but firmly, precisely. And do not improvise! Follow the steps as described!

Be extra carefull on your way back to rebuild:

*At step 7, there is a small black metallic tab that should go UNDER the metallic screw hole tab. Invisible before you remove the metallic plate holding the LCD.

Consider that before screwing back anything from step 10 onward to step 1.

Inserting the FPC connector at step 6 is easier when you aim externally, from where you can see the top edge and the glass plate, holding the casing and the glass plate at a 90deg angle from one another. Between these two parts, with a proper lighting, it is easier to see where to insert the connector.

Tweezers are helpful here.

gervaisandre, · Reply

Agree with DAR and Riz. Since I needed a new home button anyway, I read the procedure for replacing the home button and figured out it was much safer to replace the whole assembly - which it was. A quicky job could be done in a few minutes. Replacing the black tape on the edge makes it all a bit more fiddly, but I wanted to improved on dust sealing. Plus my new assembly didn't have foam on the back of the #2 connector - so I fashioned a replacement with adhesive transfer tape and thin black foam recovered from printer toner packaging.

cheongi, · Reply

the heat gun step took me the longest, but i actually used a hair dryer. i had to get the assembly quite hot before it would budge at all -- hotter than i could comfortably handle with my bare fingers. i set the entire thing on my jeans-protected thigh while heating the assembly's edges, then trying to pry, then heating, then attempting to pry again.

i seemed to find a bit more success heating from the glass side (the front side) than from the back with all the electronics and whatnot in the way.

i might recommend safety glasses here at this step because when the adhesive gave, it gave quickly and i ended up spreading quite a few very tiny pieces of my broken screen glass everywhere.

satanders, · Reply

Considering that my screen was broken into tiny bits at the top, this step had me digging little shards of glass off the adhesive with the spudger. It took a good 45 minutes to get it all. Many bad words were said.

rdigges, · Reply

and this is where i kissed my 3g Belgium 600+ working iphone goodbye, the home button ribbon cable detached from the frame , already when i opened the phone i did not see connection #1 connected so a nice piece of art work...

david113, · Reply

OMG - that was freakin hard! Make sure you don't burn yourself. I agree with satanders and ridges comments. Heat from the outside and use the spudger to prise the cover. And make sure you don't harm the button!

jamesbuttigieg, · Reply

At least one YouTube video shows using a spudger to try and free the parts from the glue after heating. The spudger is shown being used close to the flex cable (the yellowish flat plastic thing) for what I believe is the speaker. There is a risk you will damage the flex cable. You might want to be really careful not to damage it. Let us suppose the phone was working okay except for a cracked screen before you began the replacement procedure. If something goes wrong with your installation and you need to reassemble the phone for any reason (such as realizing you need a new front screen in addition to the digitizer), and you have damaged that flex cable, you probably won't have any sound in the phone.

cochranb, · Reply

i held the corners up to my stove burner on low heat. worked quickly and easy.

bnewquist78148, · Reply

For mere mortals who don't have a heat gun lying round, a desk lamp with an old-school incandescent bulb puts off a crap-load of heat, especially a 100W.

Hank, · Reply

Tip for dealing with a badly shattered screen:

I placed a piece of packing tape over the broken glass before trying to remove it. This kept it all together when prying it away from the plastics instead of having to remove each broken shard individually.

ckelloggjohnson, · Reply

How's this for homespun? The hairdryer was taking FOREVER. I put masking tape on the the shattered outer screen surface (great suggestion!) and used a teflon coated electric griddle to get the plastics off! I set it to the lowest setting (WARM) and moved the tape covered surface around on the griddle for even heating. After about two to three minutes of intermittent heating and checking for effect, the plastics pretty much peeled off top to bottom with little to moderate effort. Plastic was warped about 5mm maximum afterward but nothing show stopping. All went together afterward and works fine. Probably should be wearing some protective eye wear for this and be careful of glass shards.

bretginther, · Reply

Great tips, thanks! Gas stove on low heat worked perfectly. Used an oven mit to hold the display with one hand and the other hand to slide the spudger around the whole seam. I did manage to tear a very small piece (< 1/8") of the rubber gasket off so be very careful.

chuckcastle, · Reply

Quote from satanders:

the heat gun step took me the longest, but i actually used a hair dryer. i had to get the assembly quite hot before it would budge at all -- hotter than i could comfortably handle with my bare fingers. i set the entire thing on my jeans-protected thigh while heating the assembly's edges, then trying to pry, then heating, then attempting to pry again.

i seemed to find a bit more success heating from the glass side (the front side) than from the back with all the electronics and whatnot in the way.

i might recommend safety glasses here at this step because when the adhesive gave, it gave quickly and i ended up spreading quite a few very tiny pieces of my broken screen glass everywhere.

It should be heated to any temperature with the heat gun? And how many inches the glass? Thanks

Pek, · Reply

When I did this repair, everything went to plan until step 15. My original front panel glass was severely broken, and it was quite hard to get the touch screen plastics and front panel separated. The result was a non-working touch screen after putting it all together again, but the LCD and Home button was all working perfectly.

So I'm considering buying the front panel assembly in stead, since I don't have to dismantle the whole front panel there.

Btw, great product and quick delivery. From iFixit to Norway in four days without additional costs of taxes, etc. Thumbs up :)

Lars, · Reply

Quote from Lars:

When I did this repair, everything went to plan until step 15. My original front panel glass was severely broken, and it was quite hard to get the touch screen plastics and front panel separated. The result was a non-working touch screen after putting it all together again, but the LCD and Home button was all working perfectly.

So I'm considering buying the front panel assembly in stead, since I don't have to dismantle the whole front panel there.

Btw, great product and quick delivery. From iFixit to Norway in four days without additional costs of taxes, etc. Thumbs up :)

I just found out I should check all the cable connections, so I went through step 1 to 5 and found out it was just a connection issue. Everything is working good now. :)

Lars, · Reply

I have been having a very difficult time with this step, im not even sure what im taking apart from what? hehe the picture number 2 shows the finger close to the edge but not really wehere hes nail is.. if any one could help it would be greatly apreciated, sorry for bad spelling..

But I agree with Lars great product and good service, fedEx **%%^$ up big time but nothing to do with iFixit..

Steve the Pirate,

It's kind of hard to see which pieces are being separated in these photos. I found it helpful to separate the sides first (shown in step 16) by pressing outward on the glass while holding the metal edge. This allows you to see what you're separating and makes it easier to separate the top and the bottom.

You probably want to avoid scraping off the rubber coating around the edge.

Gloves and eye protection are a really good idea for the next few steps. You want to keep from getting glass splinters or burnt fingers. Maybe I'm not as talented as the ifixit guys, but heat guns and separating things with my fingernails just don't mix well for me. I used a pair of very sharp tweezers.

Martin Roth, · Reply

Be careful not to damage the rubber lining around the edge of the front panel. This rubber lining creates a "recess" into which the front glass panel is "seated".

ianjosef, · Reply

Make sure not to bend the home button contacts. These are just two pieces of exposed metal pieces from the home button that make contact with pads on the main board on the phone when the phone is assembled. When I had put my phone back together again, the home button didn't work. After opening it up again I realized that one of the home button contact points had gotten bent.

shahshop, · Reply

This was challenging. An Ikea Espressivo desk lamp was my saving grace. I think it would help to have a photo of some of the intermediate steps of gradually wedging the part off because I wasn't sure what I was trying to do at first...the best I can describe it is that the whole thing you're trying to remove is a sort of wrap around frame holding the glass in place. I think I screwed up the rubber edging a little...won't know how it looks until I put it back together...the tape was a good way to keep most of the glass together but I still had to use a spudger to scrape out the last little bits of glass and adhesive.

patrice webb, · Reply

Like others here, I used a hair dryer on a low/medium setting. I kept my finger in the airflow as a temperature monitor and heated both the front and the rear of the assembly by regularly turning it around. I found that this just takes a lot of time. You have to allow the heat to travel through the plastic and glass into the glue. You then need to allow time for the glue to soften. Just be patient - it took me at least 20-30 minutes to get the two parts completely separated. If you have to protect your skin from burning you're getting everything FAR TOO HOT and you risk damaging (or even melting) some of the components of your lovely iPhone!

Just be prepared to take this VERY slowly. Allow the glue to soften, use your fingernail to initially find the join between the two components and gently, VERY GENTLY, keep the heat going and prise them apart. Once they're starting to part you can use a plastic spudger instead of your fingernail, but don't force it - be GENTLE. If you have any doubts, just continue to use your fingernail until it's started to separate all the way round the screen.

Be careful not to damage the rubber-like seal on the glass side of the assembly. Despite using my fingernail very carefully I inflicted (albeit minor) damage on a very small area of the seal. In the long term this might allow dust to find its way in between the glass and the display. If you can avoid damaging the seal you'll reduce the risk of dirt and dust ingress.

Initially I was clueless as to what part was supposed to be separated from what. It only became clear when I looked closely at the complete assembly edge-on. Even with my less-than-perfect eyes I could see that there was a join about half way through the edge. Heating it in the corner (as per the guide instructions) and gently pressing in a finger nail fully revealed the join. Once it starts to come apart, just work your way round the edge and you can eventually separate them enough to get a plastic spudger between the two parts to help prise them apart. NEVER force it. Just keep gently heating it (with your finger in place to tell you if things are getting too hot) and the glue will melt giving you a clean separation without risk of damage to either component.

An earlier poster suggested that a good way to start the separation of the two parts is to hold the rail and push on the glass on one of the long edges of the iPhone. I found this worked very well. If you have difficulty starting the separation in the corner (as per the guide), try this approach, but don't push too hard on the glass - especially if it is already broken.

midahed, · Reply

A) This is the step at which you wish you had paid a pro $75 to do this for you, or at the least bought the entire display, rather than try to pry the glass off.

B) You need a very strong & thin tool to wedge between the glass and the plastic panel of the frame. The spudger is too thick. I used a high quality paring knife. An Exacto knife may break. I suppose I could have melted the glue more so that the two pieces separate easier, but the heat made me nervous about damaging the electronics.

C) There is a thin rubber gasket that wraps around the outer edge of the two pieces you're trying to pry apart. It's nearly impossible to not damage this while prying the two pieces apart in this step. However, I think people should be advised to run a pin along the edges of separate the gasket from the glass, and then try to pry the glass off only after the glass edge has been separated from the trim. The new glass has to nestle back inside the rectangle formed by the gasket.

ifi91745, · Reply

To get the glass off the frame easily & safely, I removed the earphone assembly & speaker, and the home button, then soaked the screen assembly in near boiling water and detergent - after a while, was able to prize apart using a credit card. After cleaning off old tape & then rinsing in deionized water and drying, reassembled - works fine & no hot hair guns or melting!!

Paul baskeyfield, · Reply

use a hairdryer i did it no damage at all:)

Nick, · Reply

I would have to say it did take a good 3 hrs to complete the installation. It is a hard repair but, very worth it. My husband and i both done the repair. The hardest part is getting the damaged screen off of the adheasive.My phone looks and works great .THANK YOU so much for the kit to repair my phone .I also like being abel to get a repair kit that I can do at home .

tommylynnbolling, · Reply

I also plan on doing my sons repair on his iPhone now .

Quote from tommylynnbolling:

I would have to say it did take a good 3 hrs to complete the installation. It is a hard repair but, very worth it. My husband and i both done the repair. The hardest part is getting the damaged screen off of the adheasive.My phone looks and works great .THANK YOU so much for the kit to repair my phone .I also like being abel to get a repair kit that I can do at home .

tommylynnbolling, · Reply

Constant pressure with your fingernail or spudger is good. The adhesive will slowly give way. Too hard and you will bend the edge fo the plastic frame.

Robb Hill, · Reply

Be really super careful when you use a heat gun on the bottom as it melted my home button :-(

Fortunately ebay had the part.

diem74, · Reply

Quote from diem74:

Be really super careful when you use a heat gun on the bottom as it melted my home button :-(

Fortunately ebay had the part.

Addition: The heat gun melted the plastic frame as well. Not happy :-(

diem74, · Reply

Also.. I had it put back together and noticed that the HOME BUTTON didnt work... Took it back apart and saw the #4 wire had become disconnected.. Over all, Im happy! iFixed it!

obrienfam9172, · Reply

i did the repair, and now the screen wont turn on. It will receive texts and calls (I know because the sounds are audible) but the screen will not work. I feel I have tried everything. I assume this is an issue with ribbon 2?

chrisbatten, · Reply

JUST USE A GLUE REMOVER , BETTER WITHOUT HEAT PROBLEMS .!

STARGR, · Reply

Quote from diem74:

Be really super careful when you use a heat gun on the bottom as it melted my home button :-( Fortunately ebay had the part.

I did the same thing! Do you have to take the whole phone apart again to replace the melted button with the new one?

jksthlm, · Reply

Quote from chrisbatten:

i did the repair, and now the screen wont turn on. It will receive texts and calls (I know because the sounds are audible) but the screen will not work. I feel I have tried everything. I assume this is an issue with ribbon 2?

ebay7795, · Reply

Quote from chrisbatten:

i did the repair, and now the screen wont turn on. It will receive texts and calls (I know because the sounds are audible) but the screen will not work. I feel I have tried everything. I assume this is an issue with ribbon 2?

Iphone should be off or sim should be removed b4 you take glass screen apart. This sometime causes the screen to be blank when reassembling the iphone.

possible fix is that you will have to SHut the iphone off ( like holding home & power button down for a few seconds.

I melted my iphone home button with heat gun. so I had to borrow the assembly glass/digitizer/lcd/home button from another working iphone to perform the power RESET. If your button is ok. just reassemble and do the power reset IE...holding power and home buttons down...

ebay7795, · Reply

Somehow I broke one of the two springy contacts that connect the home button from the front assembly to the main/back. (You can see them in the upper left corner of the step 17 picture.) I've got it working again mostly, by soldering in a bit of metal to bridge the gap. Unfortunately it isn't springy so I'm not sure how long it will last. I guess I might be able to solder in some tiny wires to connect them, or maybe some different springs. Ugh. Great guide, wish I wasn't such a goof!

dansteeves68, · Reply

thank you! quite simply one of the easiest fixes i have come across lately.. follow the directions i.e, (be CAREFUL not to melt the home button) and a bit of common sense i.e,(the heat gun will be plenty hot to melt plastic, follow the directions in reverse to put back together.. like plug the cables back in??) will go a long way here.. all in all very happy with the purchase. directions good..saved me 125.00 bucks doing it myself.. thanks again!!

damcon1103, · Reply

tip 1: try to keep the plastic tape around the display as intact as possible. It keeps out dust at the edges.

tip 2: you can affix (stick) the replacement screen to the upper and lower part without removing the protective plastic on the inside of the panel.

Remove the plastic on the inside just before you re-afix the lcd panel. Thus you get a dust and particle free LCD and touch panel.

tip 3: use the suction cup to place the new screen.

Good luck, WernerT

ifixit943, · Reply

Used this guide to replace my home button. Worked great. I have a heat gun but opted to use a hairdryer and had no issues. i used a utility knife to separate the glass from the frame and that made it really east. make sure to tilt the sharp edge toward the frame and not the glass or you can scratch the black paint off the glass. Longest step was removing the old glue. Rubbing alcohol seemed to work good. Thanks for the how-to!

troy, · Reply

A heat gun is really overkill. I used a hairdryer on LOW heat and a spudger. It worked very well, just have faith... It feels like an impossibly strong bond for about a minute or more and then the adhesive warms up and it just pops.

If the screen is shattered over an area where there is adhesive under it, plan on a lot of time picking at little pieces of broken glass. If you can get a spudger under the old piece of adhesive and peel it off a big pice with many shards stuck to it it saves some work. Be super careful if it's shattered right over a component like the home button cables. Mine was shattered over the proximity sensor to the right of the earpiece and I came way too close to stabbing it, hard, with one end of a shard of glass while I lifted the other.

But my phone is good as new now. You'd never know it had been repaired. Yeay!

peterjb, · Reply

Yes!!! It is work !!! Thank you all :) !!!

Gladkyi, · Reply

Great instructions, everything seemed to go very smoothly. However something is wrong, the unit buzzes if i flip the hold switch, but no display, nothing. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks

kitteedog, · Reply

I had the same thing happen with mine, per the quoted item below. Broken in all the wrong places. I'd probably add that in addition picking out the glass, it's not a bad idea to get an exacto knife and spend some time peeling up the old residue.

The frame on mine was pretty torqued by the time I got all the glass out (it was pretty shattered). Amazingly the tape wouldn't quite hold the corners down, even with a fair amount of pressure. That's strong tape but it just wouldn't sit. A couple of droplets of superglue and some clamps on the corner and everything secured down just fine. It's not coming apart if the screen goes again, but by that time the 4G should be out and it's time for a new phone anyway.

Quote from peterjb:

A heat gun is really overkill. I used a hairdryer on LOW heat and a spudger. It worked very well, just have faith... It feels like an impossibly strong bond for about a minute or more and then the adhesive warms up and it just pops.

If the screen is shattered over an area where there is adhesive under it, plan on a lot of time picking at little pieces of broken glass. If you can get a spudger under the old piece of adhesive and peel it off a big pice with many shards stuck to it it saves some work. Be super careful if it's shattered right over a component like the home button cables. Mine was shattered over the proximity sensor to the right of the earpiece and I came way too close to stabbing it, hard, with one end of a shard of glass while I lifted the other.

But my phone is good as new now. You'd never know it had been repaired. Yeay!

yasdnil, · Reply

I reassembled mine, but before i snapped my front glass into place and putting in the final two screws, I tried to verify everything was working. All worked except the home button. Long story short, I believe that the the front panel has to be snapped into place for the home button to work (something on the front panel seems to contact the back panel for the home button).

bryanboyer, · Reply

Was pretty sad that although i did managed to change to a new home button with new contacts but it's still not functioning well, i will still have to press very hard for the button to function. Anyone has this problem?

Kevin, · Reply

I used this tutorial to replace the glass in my iPhone 3G last August. Everything works great. The only problem I have had is that dust is collecting between the lcd and the new glass. I guess the rubber gasket isn't secure anymore. I am probably going to take mine apart again to clean away the dust. I wonder if anyone has tried a little rubber cement or something similar to reseal the rubber gasket in place. Any ideas?

bjelliott, · Reply

I was considering using black silicone to seal it.

I ever use this silicone to seal the gap on my car bodykit,just worry about the heat of the melted silicon but maybe this can help to keep the dust out.

Quote from bjelliott:

I used this tutorial to replace the glass in my iPhone 3G last August. Everything works great. The only problem I have had is that dust is collecting between the lcd and the new glass. I guess the rubber gasket isn't secure anymore. I am probably going to take mine apart again to clean away the dust. I wonder if anyone has tried a little rubber cement or something similar to reseal the rubber gasket in place. Any ideas?

Kevin, · Reply

Quote from ebay7795:

iPhone should be off or sim should be removed b4 you take glass screen apart. This sometime causes the screen to be blank when reassembling the iPhone.

possible fix is that you will have to SHut the iPhone off ( like holding home & power button down for a few seconds.

I melted my iPhone home button with heat gun. so I had to borrow the assembly glass/digitizer/lcd/home button from another working iPhone to perform the power RESET. If your button is ok. just reassemble and do the power reset IE...holding power and home buttons down...

jera lynn whitlaw, · Reply

Quote from jera lynn whitlaw:

I DID EVERYTHING PUT THE iPhone TOGETHER BUT NOW THE iPhone DOESN"T WORK THE PANEL IS ALL WHITE.

jera lynn whitlaw, · Reply

Be cautious! Or you could "spudger" your home button circuit in two at this point!

plansdowne, · Reply

I used a hair dryer, not a heat gun. If you can't hold the screen with the hot air blowing on your hand then reduce the heat, lower fan speed, or move the hair dryer a little farther away. If you can stand the heat you probably won't melt the plastic.

Steve Schang, · Reply

You will need to supply your own double stick tape.

tbacon, · Reply

Quote from tbacon:

You will need to supply your own double stick tape.

Double stick tape should be listed as a tool needed for completion of the assembly

tbacon, · Reply

really good instructions, had me worried heating up near the power button.

now im happy i have a non-shattered screen.

korndisturbed06, · Reply

How do you remove the home button assembly/flex cable from the front frame to change/repair that?

kkgirls, · Reply

I thought the same about supplying your own double-sided tape but found that it was included in the bubble wrap that contained the front panel

Quote from tbacon:

You will need to supply your own double stick tape.

allthumbs, · Reply

Has anyone had problems getting the receiver/earpiece for the phone to work after putting it all back together? I can only use the phone now using the speaker-phone.

Quote from allthumbs:

I thought the same about supplying your own double-sided tape but found that it was included in the bubble wrap that contained the front panel

allthumbs, · Reply

So great instructions worked perfect. I have to say that removing a shattered screen took a lot longer than I expected, as I couldn't easily peal the touch screen from the plastic parts. But after a while it came free.

I was skeptical about using just double sided tape after seeing how strong the bond was for the touch screen from factory. But a quick trip to the local "Mega Mart" revealed a product that I believe is very close to what was originally used as an adhesive. The big difference was that from factory they had all of the surface covered with the adhesive and the stuff I found is just small strips. The product is called "Terrifically Tacky Tape." Apparently a lot of stores carry it as I can just google "Terrifically Tacky Tape" and find several resources. Here is a link to the photo of the tape I used.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/paretech/35...

-Matt

mpare, · Reply

I have a question? I broke the glass screen on my Iphone. I can still see everything normal just the top is cracked. Is this what I need?

Kay22, · Reply

Quote from Kay22:

I have a question? I broke the glass screen on my Iphone. I can still see everything normal just the top is cracked. Is this what I need?

If only your glass broke (and not the display itself), then this is what you need. We sell an iPhone 3G Front Panel kit that gives you everything except a heat gun/hair dryer to fix you front panel.

Miroslav Djuric, · Reply

dose this work for iphone 3GS? cuz looks the same!!! my glas is broken but otherwise evrything seems to work !!!

Victor1, · Reply

Quote from Victor1:

dose this work for iphone 3GS? cuz looks the same!!! my glas is broken but otherwise evrything seems to work !!!

Sorry, the 3G panels don't work on the 3GS. We're working on getting the 3GS panels soon!

Miroslav Djuric, · Reply

Great tutorial.

It was just a bit harder to free a fully shattered touch screen than the safe one on the pictures ;)

As an additional step, i used the metal spudger to remove the reliefs of the old stickers before sticking the new ones. I'd also advice to be sure to clean perfectly the LCD and the new touch screen before assembling them ... i missed a piece of dirt that now lies forever under my touchsreen :-s

Another important thing. For international users (as me), the pricing is not complete, i had to pay an additionnal toll tax at the shiping reception, of 40€ (about 55$) ! It seems that that tax could be lowered if it was included in your pricing rather than by the delivery service. I hope one day it will be done... in the very end i saved really less money than i expected with the manual fix.

Anyway, i am fully satisfied with the quality of your products and service.

lrd, · Reply

Quote from lrd:

Great tutorial. It was just a bit harder to free a fully shattered touch screen than the safe one on the pictures ;) As an additional step, i used the metal spudger to remove the reliefs of the old stickers before sticking the new ones. I'd also advice to be sure to clean perfectly the LCD and the new touch screen before assembling them ... i missed a piece of dirt that now lies forever under my touchsreen :-s Another important thing. For international users (as me), the pricing is not complete, i had to pay an additionnal toll tax at the shiping reception, of 40€ (about 55$) ! It seems that that tax could be lowered if it was included in your pricing rather than by the delivery service. I hope one day it will be done... in the very end i saved really less money than i expected with the manual fix. Anyway, i am fully satisfied with the quality of your products and service.

I second everything in this note. I shattered my glass at the top of my iphone. I spent sometime prying each piece of shattered glass off.

shadowgate, · Reply

Yeah I can only use speaker phone now too.....

Quote from allthumbs:

Has anyone had problems getting the receiver/earpiece for the phone to work after putting it all back together? I can only use the phone now using the speaker-phone.

jjamesdp, · Reply

Taking off the glass is a lot more work than is suggested (as many others have mentioned). All in all I think this and the youtube clip were helpful.

alexmarple, · Reply

yea i have a really cracked iphone 3g and its jailbroken is this the product that im going to need?

o5va1d0, · Reply

Quote from jjamesdp:

Yeah I can only use speaker phone now too.....

Same problem too. I'm so bored. Dear Ifixit Staff please answer us.

Thanks

olivierprotin, · Reply

Quote from olivierprotin:

Same problem too. I'm so bored. Dear Ifixit Staff please answer us.

Thanks

Cable #3, found in Step 6 of this guide, is most likely the problem. It seems this connection can be especially fickle and might require some wiggling, sliding and a tender touch to get the ribbon seated just right. If at first you don't succeed, try again. :) Good luck!

Brady Cabe, · Reply

Quote from Victor1:

dose this work for iphone 3GS? cuz looks the same!!! my glas is broken but otherwise evrything seems to work !!!

Hey look, we have iPhone 3GS Front Panel in stock!

Brady Cabe, · Reply

the front glass and digitizer is broke on my ph.All i have to stick suction cup to is i belive the lcd. What do i do?

33333,

Quote from brady:

Cable #3, found in Step 6 of this guide, is most likely the problem. It seems this connection can be especially fickle and might require some wiggling, sliding and a tender touch to get the ribbon seated just right. If at first you don't succeed, try again. :) Good luck!

oh my god, i tried and tried and tried. for hours, but there comes nothing out of the earpiece. is there a special trick necessary for plugging cable #3 back in?

D4ny0, · Reply

Quote from D4ny0:

oh my god, i tried and tried and tried. for hours, but there comes nothing out of the earpiece. is there a special trick necessary for plugging cable #3 back in?

You may have accidentally fried your earpiece. The heat gun is probably a no-no. I used a hair dryer at lowest power and tried to carefully direct it away from all the electronics. For cable 3 make sure the black "lever" is up when you slide the cable in and when pushed in sufficiently, push-click it down to secure it in place.

fennemki, · Reply

All in all this took me a slight one and a half hour to complete and wasn't all *that* difficult. Just make sure you are in a quiet relaxed mood when starting this journey. Especially when taking off the glass from the panel stay relaxed and use the hair dryer moderately. I managed to almost keep the whole rubber lining on the outer rim intact. Only damaged the first corner a bit. I'm glad I did this all by myself and actually feel pretty proud of tackling such a difficult piece of electronics. Make sure to check out some vids on youtube just to get a feel for what you're up against. I agree with "shadowgate"; I also had to pay an extra 30 euros for customs clearance. That makes it costly, but definitely still worth it. Good products, great instructions. Two thumbs up for iFixit! Cheers from Amsterdam.

fennemki, · Reply

before adding the new adhesive, make good and sure the old stuff has been removed. i used the leaf shaped end of the metal spudger and also a q-tip with rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) along the edges where the glue was difficult to remove without damaging the very thin rails of the frame assembly. the alcohol seemed to soften and dissolve the glue for easier clean up.

additionally, i trimmed the die-cut double sided tape so that instead of fitting the area /exactly/ i snipped off a sliver at the ends and "top" to make the tape smaller and easier to place -- also so the tape wouldnt roll against the rubber bezel or show beyond the blacked out area of the glass (when applied to the adhesive).

satanders, · Reply

Make sure to remove orange film from CUSTOM FIT ADHESIVE STRIPS! I had it all put back together when I realized the glass wasnt sticking. Minor set back...

obrienfam9172, · Reply

Quote from allthumbs:

Has anyone had problems getting the receiver/earpiece for the phone to work after putting it all back together? I can only use the phone now using the speaker-phone.

I suffered the same issue. Do you know how to solve it?

chinch95, · Reply

Just as a note, the digitizer I got had the protective film on the backside as well as the front side. When I tried sticking it in place, I noticed it didn't stick properly. In addition, there was the plastic tab from the film sticking out the side, and the home button was also covered. After a few minutes of swearing and cursing, I pulled the digitizer back off, mangling the adhesive strips in the process.

So, now I wait. My new strips are on order and will be here tomorrow. I could use just normal double stick tape, but am a firm believer in doing it right, with the proper materials. (I also ordered two strips in case I goof up the first one)

Just a warning so you don't repeat my mistake.

atathert, · Reply

Quote from miro:

Sorry, the 3G panels don't work on the 3GS. We're working on getting the 3GS panels soon!

Hey, will you offer in the future the complete assembly of digitizer+screen? I succesfully did the repair, but of course it doesn't look the same...

josepvaque, · Reply

I completed the entire process and have a new clean looking screen. unfortionatly my touch isn't working in all areas. it doesn't currently work in the top and bottom rows of the default keyboard.

any idea what would cause this?

looking elsewhere it appears a broken digitizer can make the screen not work at all and cause weird issues.

i didn't damage the cable in anyway. and in fact kept the other parts completely separate until the last minute.

please advise me as to what to do next.

i couldnt stand having a broken screen now it irks me to have a broken touch surface.

thethrasher, · Reply

My I phone 3g is back up and operational Thanks to these great step by step instructions... The hardest part was pulling the cables off and putting them back on... All the feedbacks were also great...Thanks all I just saved $300.00

DeeRod, · Reply

My 3G is back at 100% The only thing different is that the home button isn't quite as springy as it used to be. It's more of a moosh than a click now but it works just fine. I probably melted it just a little. The hardest part for me was finding the one little 00 screw I dropped on the floor. Other than that, it was a little tedious, but not that difficult. Thank you iFixit!

rdigges, · Reply

Quote from chinch95:

I suffered the same issue. Do you know how to solve it?

I'm having the same problem did all the process without problems but after putting it all together my earpiece seems to be off and can only use the phone on loudspeaker. Please advice

pauloji, · Reply

no go. Everything to the letter and everything worked EXCEPT the touch screen. Now I can't get the screen back out of the housing. What a waste of 3 hours and $65.

your mom, · Reply

Quote from thethrasher:

I completed the entire process and have a new clean looking screen. unfortionatly my touch isn't working in all areas. it doesn't currently work in the top and bottom rows of the default keyboard. any idea what would cause this? looking elsewhere it appears a broken digitizer can make the screen not work at all and cause weird issues. i didn't damage the cable in anyway. and in fact kept the other parts completely separate until the last minute. please advise me as to what to do next. i couldnt stand having a broken screen now it irks me to have a broken touch surface.

kerrytidwell, · Reply

did you ever get an answer on above screen problem

kerrytidwell, · Reply

Quote from lrd:

Great tutorial. It was just a bit harder to free a fully shattered touch screen than the safe one on the pictures ;) As an additional step, i used the metal spudger to remove the reliefs of the old stickers before sticking the new ones. I'd also advice to be sure to clean perfectly the LCD and the new touch screen before assembling them ... i missed a piece of dirt that now lies forever under my touchsreen :-s Another important thing. For international users (as me), the pricing is not complete, i had to pay an additionnal toll tax at the shiping reception, of 40€ (about 55$) ! It seems that that tax could be lowered if it was included in your pricing rather than by the delivery service. I hope one day it will be done... in the very end i saved really less money than i expected with the manual fix. Anyway, i am fully satisfied with the quality of your products and service.

jameshobbs, · Reply

Quote from jameshobbs:

COuldn't agree more I emailed you about the fact the receiving tax plus the agents fees here in the UK cost me around £42 extra and un-advertised. Had you of cleared the tax on shipment there would of been no agent fees. In this International day and age please sort this out, other than that one of the best step by step guides on the web and great to have a complete kit. Thankyou. (Please answer your emails!)

jameshobbs, · Reply

Great guide! Two things I'd do different next time:

1. Have more patience when removing the glass from the frame. I tore a tiny bit of the rubber gasket and warped other sections of it with the spudger.

2. Do this repair in a dust-free environment and possibly even wear rubber gloves. I have tiny specs of dust stuck between the glass the LCD, I took it apart a couple more times to clean it and got it down to where it's not so bad.

Other than that, all the tools came in handy and the instructions worked exceptionally well! Thanks guys!

chuckcastle, · Reply

I had a previous comment, but in the wrong place:

I reassembled mine, but before i snapped my front glass into place and putting in the final two screws, I tried to verify everything was working. All worked except the home button. Long story short, I believe that the the front panel has to be snapped into place for the home button to work (something on the front panel seems to contact the back panel for the home button).

bryanboyer, · Reply

Hi, Is there anyway to replace the rubber strip?Most of the strip has been removed when i was changing the home button. Now i am worried about moisture and dust getting into the phone

Quote from fennemki:

All in all this took me a slight one and a half hour to complete and wasn't all *that* difficult. Just make sure you are in a quiet relaxed mood when starting this journey. Especially when taking off the glass from the panel stay relaxed and use the hair dryer moderately. I managed to almost keep the whole rubber lining on the outer rim intact. Only damaged the first corner a bit. I'm glad I did this all by myself and actually feel pretty proud of tackling such a difficult piece of electronics. Make sure to check out some vids on youtube just to get a feel for what you're up against. I agree with "shadowgate"; I also had to pay an extra 30 euros for customs clearance. That makes it costly, but definitely still worth it. Good products, great instructions. Two thumbs up for iFixit! Cheers from Amsterdam.

Kevin, · Reply

My unlock button doesn't work any idea how to fix it

rueben, · Reply

Everything works great, thanks! I do have a noticeable gap around the glass and the iPhone body, though- hoping it doesn't cause too much trouble.

jsaintours, · Reply

I used their custom fit adhesive strips and they held at exactly 0%. Nothing whatsoever, no matter what I did with heat. Since I decided I will never again try this part of it and just get the part with the digitizer/home button already on it I grabbed the super glue gel and 30 seconds later I was good.

Sarabian, · Reply

There are FOUR sections of peel-off plastic on the glass + digitizer replacement part: three on the back (top, digitizer, bottom), and one covering the face.

1. Remove the two on the top and bottom of the back before you attach it to the plastic using the adhesive strips (or double-sided tape).

2. Remove the one covering the back of the digitizer before you reattach the LCD. Trust me, it's there. There isn't a handy pull-tab, but it covers the entire back of the digitizer, and if you leave it on, it creates a bezel-like effect around edge of the viewable screen. I used a plastic spudger under the edge where it sticks up a bit. Comes off very easily.

3. Wait to remove the one on the face until you've got the entire phone back together, and watch the tabs at the top and bottom as you reassemble it.

rmcentyre, · Reply

My repair kit (not one from iFixit) had a fancy one-piece adhesive "strip" to fix the glass to the touch-screen plastics. It was effectively shaped the same as the original adhesive with very narrow strips down the two sides of the assembly providing all-round adhesion between the glass and the display plastics. The replacement glass screen came with several of those thin, clear plastic peel-off protective coatings to keep it in pristine condition.

The problem was that I forgot to remove them before attaching the new glass! Unsurprisingly I found that I couldn't get the glass to stick to the "frame and rail" assembly. $$^^! The glass front panel came off fairly easily, but the protective plastic films were securely stuck to the double-sided adhesive. Pulling off the films ruined the adhesive, so I had to resort to the super-glue solution (which worked very well)

If the guide is ever updated it would be helpful to include a reminder to remove any protective films before sticking the two parts together.

Other than that the job went fairly well. Screw-ups included, it took me a little over four hours to complete - but don't let this put you off; I'm naturally cautious and like to re-read and thoroughly understand what has to be done before embarking on the next step, so I'm probably at the extreme slow end of the spectrum of people who have tackled this repair.

For anyone of advanced years with somewhat less than perfect vision ("are those tiny, barely visible dots actually screws"?!!!!), I found it helped to have a teenager around to assist with some of the more fiddly bits . As it was his phone I was fixing, my teenage assistant was glad to help. Thanks Dom!

midahed, · Reply

What I found very helpful for getting the backing off the adhesive strips once in place was a pair of fine tweezers. Prying up in the rounded corner worked where I was utterly failing to get anywhere with a fingernail. The angled tweezers from the pro tech toolkit worked perfectly.

Otherwise I got it done, which will make my daughter (7) overjoyed. The 3GS is a hand-me-down that she uses as an ipod. She was distraught that she dropped it, and given the how relatively inexpensive and simple the repair was (other than removing a zillion shards of glass from the frame in step 14) I'm glad I handled the whole thing so calmly. Thank you iFixit for making me a better parent!

Besides, it gave me an excuse to buy the tool kit (cyber monday sale FTW!). I was skeptical of the project mat that was part of the sale bundle, but in the end I was glad to have it; the screws for the display assembly are tiny and would be easy to lose, and the magnetic mat held them nicely in place.

Smeghead, · Reply

The adhesive strips had tabs that protruded into the screen area. I had to trim them off. Also, the new glass I bought from ifixit had scratch protectors on both sides of the glass. I imagine most people realize this, but it would be good if the instructions said to peel these off before installing. Finally, you want to clean the inside of the glass because any smudges and fingerprints you leave will be visible forever.

ifi91745, · Reply

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