iPad 2 Wi-Fi Power/Mute/Volume Buttons Cable Replacement

Member-Contributed Guide

Member-Contributed Guide

An awesome member of our community made this guide. It is not managed by iFixit staff.

Replace the cable for the power, mute, and volume up/down buttons on your iPad.

Use this guide to replace a broken cable for the power, mute, and volume up/down buttons on the right side of the iPad 2.

This is a very difficult repair. To gain access to this cable, you must first remove the front panel, LCD, and the rear camera.

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Edit Step 1 Front Panel  ¶ 

  • The iPad 2 is an extremely difficult device to open. Before attempting this guide, be aware that you may break your front panel and/or deform the plastic bezel around it during the opening sequence.

  • In the following steps you will use a heat gun to soften the adhesive securing the front panel to the rear panel. Try not to allow the stream of hot air to contact the thin plastic strip around the outer perimeter of the front panel as it may melt, permanently deform, and lose texture.

  • When heating up the front panel, the goal is to loosen the adhesive located in the areas highlighted in red in the second picture. When prying up the front panel, be especially careful not to damage the Wi-Fi antenna in the area boxed in blue or the digitizer cable in the area boxed in black in the second picture.

  • Use a heat gun to gently heat the front panel to the right of the home button.

  • Do not heat up the home button, as it is plastic and easily melts/deforms.

  • When prying up the glass take great care near the lock, mute and volume. The ribbon cable is fragile and is often glued to the digitizer. It will tear easily when the glass is pried up. Working from the lock button downward and staying flush with the underside of the glass will give you the best chance of not tearing the ribbon cable.

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Once the area of the front panel to the right of the home button has been heated adequately, it should be easy to insert a plastic opening tool between the outer plastic bezel and the front panel right next to the home button.

  • Use your plastic opening tool to gently create a small gap between the front panel and the outer bezel to the right of the home button.

  • If the adhesive is difficult to separate, don't be afraid to heat it up again. Excessively prying and bending the front panel when the adhesive is not pliable enough can easily cause it to crack.

  • Insert a guitar pick into the small gap created by the plastic opening tool.

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Heat up the area of the front bezel to the right of the home button along the bottom edge and make your way closer to the bottom right corner of the iPad.

  • Slide the first guitar pick toward the bottom right corner of the iPad and insert another guitar pick to maintain the gap between the front panel and the iPad next to the home button.

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Use your heat gun to heat the edge of the front panel near the bottom right corner of the iPad.

  • Gently slide a guitar pick around the edge of the bottom right corner of the front panel, being careful not to force it and reheating the panel if necessary.

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Continue heating the outer edge of the front panel and using guitar picks to separate/space the front panel from the rear panel.

  • Insert two guitar picks as placeholders on each side of the iPad.

  • Be careful when approaching the bottom left corner of the iPad. Be sure to follow the next step carefully.

  • When prying up the glass take great care near the lock, mute and volume. The ribbon cable is fragile and is often glued to the digitizer. It will tear easily when the glass is pried up. Working from the lock button downward and staying flush with the underside of the glass will give you the best chance of not tearing the ribbon cable.

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • When separating the front panel from the bottom left corner of the iPad 2, be careful not to rip the digitizer cable (highlighted in red in the first picture). It is extremely thin and easy to tear.

  • Slightly lift the front panel near the dock connector to separate it from the foam adhesive securing it to the LCD.

  • Use a guitar pick to help cut the foam adhesive securing the perimeter of the LCD to the front panel.

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Carefully rotate the front panel away from the iPad, being sure that no adhesive is still attaching the two components.

  • Do not put excessive strain on the digitizer cable.

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Lay the front panel next to the rest of the iPad 2.

  • Do not attempt to completely remove the front panel assembly just yet, as it is still attached to the logic board via the display ribbon cable.

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Edit Step 9 LCD  ¶ 

  • Remove the four 2.0 mm Phillips screws securing the LCD to the rear case.

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Lift the LCD from its long edge closest to the volume buttons and rotate it out of the rear case.

  • Lay the LCD on the front panel as seen in the second picture.

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flip up the metal retaining clip securing the display data cable to its socket on the logic board.

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Pull the display data cable out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Do not lift upward on the display data cable connector as you disconnect it.

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Remove the LCD assembly from the iPad 2.

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Edit Step 14 Rear Facing Camera  ¶ 

  • Carefully peel the rubber cover off the metal camera retainer and remove it from the iPad 2.

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Remove the following two screws:

    • One 3.3 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.1 mm Phillips screw

  • Lift the metal retainer clip straight up from its recess in the rear panel.

  • Be sure the small thermal pad is attached to the metal retaining clip as seen in the third picture when replacing the rear facing camera.

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the rear camera connector up from its socket on the control board.

  • Remove the rear facing camera.

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Edit Step 17 Power/Mute/Volume Buttons Cable  ¶ 

  • Once the LCD panel and rear camera are removed, you can begin removing the Power, Mute, Volume cable (hereafter called the PMV cable for short).

  • The PMV cable starts near the end of the control board cable that runs between two of the battery units, and runs in a complicated path along the side and corner of the iPad. (see photos 1 and 2)

  • The end of the PMV cable is wrapped in tape. Begin by removing this tape to expose the silver rectangular connector on the end of the cable. (see photo 3)

  • Use a plastic opening tool or small screwdriver to lift free the rectangular connector.

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Now you must disassemble the side switches.

  • Remove the 2.1 mm Phillips screw from the volume switch mechanism.

  • Remove the two 5.0 mm Phillips screws from the mute slider mechanism.

  • If you have not already removed the rear camera, do so now.

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 2.5 mm Phillips screws from the back of the power switch mechanism.

  • You can then push in on the power switch (on the exterior of the iPad) to push the mechanism's internal metal plate loose.

  • You can then peel the PMV cable free from the iPad's case, working backwards from the power switch towards the mute switch.

  • Lift free the small metal frame piece supporting the mute and volume switches.

  • Note: The photo shows the mute and volume switch frame being removed before the rear camera and power switch; this is possible but it's probably best to start with the power switch first.

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • The PMV cable itself is a complicated piece with three integrated buttons and a switch slider.

  • You will need to carefully peel off the old cable free from the ipad frame and the two metal supports (one for the power switch, one for the mute and volume switches).

  • Note that each button is held in place with a tiny bit of adhesive. Use a plastic opening tool or small screwdriver to lift them free.

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Now assemble the replacement PMV cable to the two metal brackets.

  • Each button has on its underside two tiny black plastic pegs which fit into holes in the metal frames, to ensure the proper fit. Make sure to line these up properly when attaching the cable to the metal frames. The reassembled cable should look as shown in the figures.

  • Install the new cable working from the power switch back towards the mute and volume switches and then to the cable connector, snaking the PMV cable along its complicated path.

  • The replacement part should have adhesive patches to hold the cable in place.

  • Attaching the rectangular cable connector is tricky as there is little clearance from the edge of the iPad case. It may be helpful to use a plastic opening tool to push it gently until it snaps into place.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2415 device page.

Required Tools

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

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Heat Gun

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Plastic Opening Tools

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iFixit Opening Picks set of 6

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

Successfully completed this guide. Thanks.

musstafaa, · Reply

Hi, we have an iPad 2 in for repair and needs a new power button assembly. Thing is the ribbon is different from a standard iPad 2. There are subtle differences in the inside too. It is definitely a genuine iPad, and has same model numbers. Anyone come across this before?

iPhoneSurgery, · Reply

Chris, I have the same problem with power ribbon cable it's not the one everyone is selling, did you manage to find a source who sold the correct part?

David,

Completed this guide thank you. Just want to point out that there are two cables for the iPad 2, making sure that you have the right one is very important. Be very careful around the camera area of the iPad too this is very tricky and there are no pictures of this part, wish I had done some now to upload for others, but I'm sure that I'll have another to do before to long and I will then. One main tip... Don't stick anything down till you've got everything secure as removing the the tape is very tricky once stuck and you don't want to be replacing this again...

Roberto Enrieu, · Reply

Be careful of the power button ribbon on the right hand side about 1 inch from the top. This runs right under the screen and often has plenty of glue on top of it.

robertsbrett, · Reply

Hi I successfully made this repair but I after finished everything just noticed I forgot to place back rubber cover from step 14, everything works on ipad, do you thing this will cause any possible issue on the future? I would not like to open ipad again as I just replaced also 3m adhesives and I think I would mess them when opening again

Francisco Romo, · Reply

Hi Jake, see the second picture attached to step 17, which has the path highlighted in red. You can click on it and select 'View Huge', which is the best closeup I took when I did this originally. Hope that helps.

Marshall in Baltimore, · Reply

Step 18:

The color code indicates that the 2 5.0 philips come out first. (red) then the single screw (orange). The are transposed in the guide.

Rory McLeod, · Reply

It would be really nice to have some close ups of this "complicated path."

jakethegamer, · Reply

I've noticed that nearly every "repair" guide on this site contains the same lie at the end: "Installation is the reverse of removal." This lie is never more apparent when you are replacing a flex cable with several bends and folds. Is there some reason everyone stops taking pictures once the bad part is removed from the device? I assume you had to actually install the new part, so some pictures of the installation process, especially with flex cables, would be appreciated.

geoff, · Reply

Let me add that I do appreciate all of the efforts of those submitting these guides. You all have saved me countless dollars in unnecessary part replacement and collateral damage to cables and the like during disassembly. Because of you nice people, I am able to readily spot poor workmanship from other shops and provide my customers with the best possible service. Kudos!

geoff, · Reply

I greatly appreciate this tutorial, however one thing really lacking was how to actually reassemble and install the new power button. Maybe I didn't see it, but the only thing I saw was a brief, vague description of how to do it, and no pictures. Except for what was lacking here, I think it was a great tutorial, and very helpful. Thank you

Andrew , · Reply

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