iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2415 Front Panel Replacement

Replace the Front Panel in your iPad 2 Wi-FI EMC 2415.

Use this guide to replace the front panel. The front panel does not include the home button assembly or the camera bracket.

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Edit Step 1 Front Panel  ¶ 

  • In the following steps, you will be using a microwave to heat the iOpener, an insulated bag that will transfer heat to the adhesive strips around the iPad's screen.

  • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk stuck to the bottom of the microwave may end up stuck to the iOpener.

  • Place the iOpener in the microwave and microwave it for one minute on the highest power setting.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. We recommend waiting at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener.

    • If you have not heated your iOpener for some time, or this is the first time you are using the iOpener, we suggest microwaving the bag wrapped in a damp paper towel. This will prevent the contents of the bag from burning in the event of over-microwaving.

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the corners.

  • Be careful when handling the bag, as it will be quite hot.

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • As you may find yourself working with broken glass during this procedure, we recommend wearing safety glasses for protection from flying shards.

  • If you're removing a cracked screen, covering the glass in clear packing tape will hold it together while you work and minimize the mess.

  • Lay the iOpener flat on the right edge of the iPad, smoothing it out so that there is good contact between the surface of the iPad and the iOpener.

  • Let the bag sit on the iPad for approximately 90 seconds before attempting to open the front panel.

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Make sure you place the tool in the proper spot. It is difficult to see the separation between the glass and the bezel.

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • There is a small gap in the iPad's adhesive ring in the upper right corner of the iPad, approximately 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top of the iPad. You are going to exploit this weakness.

  • Insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip of the opening tool, just enough to widen the crack.

  • It may require some force to get the wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic. Work patiently and carefully, wiggling the plastic opening tool back and forth as necessary.

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Keeping the tip of the plastic opening tool wedged between the front glass and plastic bezel, slide a plastic guitar pick in the gap, right next to the plastic opening tool.

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Remove the plastic opening tool from the iPad, and push the guitar pick further underneath the front glass to a depth of ~0.5 inches.

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • While you work on releasing the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, reheat the iOpener, and replace it on the bottom edge of the iPad.

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • While the bottom edge is being heated by the iOpener, begin releasing the adhesive from the right edge of the iPad.

  • Slide the guitar pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

  • The adhesive is very strong, and some serious force may be required. Work carefully.

  • If you can see the tip of the guitar pick underneath the front glass, pull the guitar pick out just a little bit. While using the guitar pick this deep won't damage anything, it may get adhesive residue all over the LCD.

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • It may be necessary to move the heated iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad as you release the adhesive. This depends on how long the iPad has been able to cool while you were working on it.

  • If the guitar pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the guitar pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Before removing the first guitar pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, insert a second guitar pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep the adhesive from re-adhering.

  • Re-heat the iOpener, and move it to the top edge of the iPad.

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • The next few steps require extreme caution.

  • The Wi-Fi antenna is attached to the bottom right edge of the rear case of the iPad via screws and a cable. Because of the orientation of the Wi-Fi antenna, it is imperative to proceed with caution otherwise irreversible damage to the Wi-Fi antenna may result.

  • You will have to release the adhesive securing the antenna to the front panel without damaging the delicate parts attaching the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Follow the next steps carefully.

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Slide the guitar pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad, releasing the adhesive there.

  • Do not slide the guitar pick further than the bottom right corner. You may damage the Wi-Fi antenna by doing so.

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • This step requires you to move the guitar pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. The Wi-Fi antenna is very close to the corner and is easily severed if the adhesive is released improperly.

  • Do not completely remove the guitar pick from under the front glass, but pull it out just a litttle bit so that ~1/8" of the tip is still under the front glass.

  • Slide the tip of the guitar pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive underneath the Wi-Fi antenna.

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Once you have moved past the Wi-FI antenna (approximately 3" from the right edge, or right next to the home button) re-insert the guitar pick to its full depth.

  • Slide the guitar pick to the right, releasing the adhesive securing the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.

    • The antenna is attached to the bottom of the iPad via screws and a cable. This step detaches the antenna from the front panel, ensuring that when you remove the panel, the antenna will not be damaged.

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Continue releasing the adhesive along the bottom of the iPad, pulling the guitar pick out far enough to go around the home button, and re-inserting it once the guitar pick is past the home button.

  • If the adhesive has cooled too much along the bottom edge, re-microwave the iOpener and reheat the adhesive where you are working.

  • Do not heat the iOpener more than a minute at a time, and always allow at least two minutes before reheating it.

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Continue releasing the adhesive all the way along the bottom edge of the iPad.

  • Leave the guitar pick wedged underneath the front glass near the home button.

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Reheat the iOpener in the microwave and set it on the left edge of the iPad to start warming the adhesive in that section.

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Slide the guitar pick along the top edge of the iPad, pulling it out slightly to go around the front-facing camera bracket.

  • The adhesive along this section is very thick, and a fair amount of force may be required. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not slip and damage yourself or your iPad.

  • If the adhesive has cooled too much, replace the iOpener along the top edge and continue working. If the iOpener has cooled too much, reheat it.

  • If the guitar pick is getting stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the guitar pick as shown in step 9.

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Continue releasing the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, and slide the guitar pick around the top left corner.

  • If the adhesive is warm enough, remove the iOpener from the iPad for convenience. However, if the adhesive is still quite sticky, re-heat the iOpener and lay it on the left edge while you work.

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Slide the guitar pick along the left edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

  • The digitizer cable is located approximately 2" from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding the guitar pick when you get ~2.25" from the bottom of the iPad.

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Using the guitar pick that is still underneath the bottom edge of the iPad, release the adhesive along the bottom left corner.

  • The bottom of the digitizer cable is only ~1" from the bottom of the iPad. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not sever this cable.

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Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Using one of the guitar picks, pry up the bottom right corner of the iPad and grab it with your fingers.

  • Some of the adhesive along the perimeter of the iPad may have stuck back down again. If this is the case, slide a guitar pick underneath the edge of the iPad where the front glass is still stuck and "cut" the adhesive.

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Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Holding the iPad by the top and bottom right corners, rotate the front glass away from the iPad.

  • Be careful of any adhesive that may still be attached, and use a guitar pick to cut any adhesive that may still be holding the front panel down.

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Edit Step 25 LCD  ¶ 

  • Remove the four 2.0 mm Phillips screws securing the LCD to the rear case.

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Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • The front panel ribbon cables are connected beneath the LCD. To access them, you'll need to temporarily flip the LCD over and out of the way.

    • Be very careful when moving the LCD, and do not attempt to remove it from the iPad—its display data cable will remain connected while it is rotated over.

  • Lift the LCD from its long edge closest to the volume buttons and gently flip it out of the rear case—like turning the page in a book.

  • Set the LCD face down on the front panel.

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Edit Step 27 Front Panel Assembly  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to carefully flip up the retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flaps, not the sockets themselves.

  • The retaining flaps are highlighted in red in the second picture.

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Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to peel the digitizer cable off the shields on the logic board.

  • Carefully pull the digitizer cable off the adhesive securing it to the side of the rear case.

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Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • Pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its two sockets on the logic board.

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Edit Step 30  ¶ 

  • In order to remove the front panel assembly, the ribbon cable needs to slide out between the case and the LCD. You'll need to move the LCD to make some room.

    • Be very careful when moving the LCD, and do not attempt to remove it from the iPad—its cable will remain connected while it is rotated over.

  • Lift the LCD from its long edge farthest from the digitizer cable and gently flip it toward the rear case—like closing a book.

  • While holding the LCD up, gently slide the front panel away from the iPad. Be careful not to snag the digitizer cable on the rear case or LCD.

    • Set the LCD back into the body for safekeeping.

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Edit Step 31 Home Button Assembly  ¶ 

  • The home button assembly is attached to the front panel with some adhesive. The use of an iOpener to soften the adhesive is highly recommended.

  • Place the iOpener in the microwave and microwave it for one minute on the highest power setting.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. We recommend waiting at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener.

  • Place the iOpener over the home button on the front edge of the display.

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Edit Step 32  ¶ 

  • Wedge the plastic opening tool under the right side of the home button assembly and pry upwards, releasing the adhesive on that side.

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Edit Step 33  ¶ 

  • Using the technique above, release the adhesive on the left side of the home button.

  • Lift the home button mount off of the front panel.

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Edit Step 34  ¶ 

  • Insert the edge of plastic opening tool underneath the edge of the home button mounting bracket.

  • Slide the plastic opening tool along the retaining spring bracket, releasing the adhesive.

  • Remove the home button with mounting bracket from the front panel.

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Edit Step 35 Camera Bracket  ¶ 

  • The camera bracket is attached to the front panel by adhesive. The use of an iOpener to soften the adhesive is highly recommended.

  • Place the iOpener in the microwave and microwave it for one minute on the highest power setting.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. We recommend waiting at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener.

  • Place the iOpener over the front facing camera on the front edge of the top of the display.

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Edit Step 36  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to push the camera bracket off the adhesive securing it to the front panel.

  • The camera bracket will move about 2 mm to the right or left depending which way you push the camera bracket.

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Edit Step 37  ¶ 

  • Lift and remove the camera bracket up off the front panel.

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Edit Step 38 Front Panel  ¶ 

  • Front panel remains.

  • If you are replacing your panel with a new one, be aware that the new panel may have a protective film on the outside and/or inside of the frame. This needs to be removed.

To reassemble your device, follow these directions in reverse and use our iPad 2 Wi-Fi Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to reattach the front panel.

For more information, check out the iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2415 device page.

Required Tools

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Plastic Opening Tools

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

iOpener

$12.95 · 50+ In stock

iFixit Opening Picks set of 6

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

Step11- I tore the antenna, still works though. Buy a new one for 2 bucks off amazon before repair just in case.

Dave Y, · Reply

Correct! I tore my antenna also, but my wifi signal was so weak I had to replace the whole antenna, which required more time. The picture in Step 11 actually shows the antenna broken off the cable. That confused me a little. If your antenna looks like the one in step 11 you broke it! But I did complete the repair successfully. I also suggest you pick up a cheap antenna just in case.

mamos68,

I would recommend that in cases of replacing shattered screens, that you tape the front panel glass with clear packing tape using overlapping strips, before you begin. This helps to ensure that the panel stays intact, and reduces the chances of puncturing the digitizing layer, and damaging the LCD upon removal.

You want to use clear tape so that you are able to see how any of the glass remnants are shifting during removal.

dcorsivo, · Reply

This is a very good idea. I was replacing one with a shattered screen and it was a pain in the ##@ because it kept breaking again and again, not to mention the safety glasses I had to wear because tiny glass bits kept flying into my eyes.

Have you edited the guide to include a step about this?

Logan Kennedy,

After replacing the screen I noticed it looked horrible because the little plastic bezel was missing. I considered reusing the old one but it got pretty beat up in the removal process so it wasn't really an option.

I will be editing the guide to mention trying to keep the plastic bezel intact so it can be reused after the screen is replaced. If it cannot be reused, I feel like the parts kit that includes the new screen should include a new bezel.

Logan Kennedy, · Reply

After looking closer, I see that it suggests prying between the glass and the bezel and leaving the bezel behind, once again my fault for not reading closely enough. I will say that this is quite difficult to do when the screen is already shattered...

Logan Kennedy,

The updated iOpener version of the guide references "a small gap in the iPad's adhesive ring in the upper right corner of the iPad". This is incorrect, that applies to iPad 3/4 only. For iPad 2 you should still be starting to the right of the home button, taking care to avoid damaging the WiFi antenna.

DarrenG, · Reply

You can use a hair dryer as a heating device to soften the glue.

The plastic tools are easy to break if you push too hard.

Have more than a couple guitar picks too.

Be safe with the broken glass, PROTECT YOUR EYES! GLASS PIECES FLY EVERYWHERE!

Have a way to manage the broken glass pieces.

McGiord, · Reply

I found it helpful to tape the ipad to a heat proof kitchen cutting board with non slip bottom, by making loops of gaffer tape. This kept it from moving around and still allowed me to change the orientation of the ipad. I also premarked the areas of the wifi antenna and the sensor cable on the front of the ipad with a grease pen, then taped it over with packing tape. Helped me remember not to go too far and to be careful at those places. The isesame tool and an exacto blade worked well, with a heat gun set on low. Used the guitar picks as place holders. Fun and fulfilling!

garai1, · Reply

I just completed this replacement. Overall, the guide is accurate. The part about the wireless antenna is a bit tough to understand, but after the disassembly, I can see why you start to the left of the antenna along the bottom edge (so, start just to the right of the home button) and slide the pick to the right to dislodge the antenna adhesive from the glass panel.

Also, a couple of tips before you start:

1) Have a can of air to blow off the LCD and rear part of new panel before you glue it down to ensure nothing is trapped underneath. This would have come in handy for me.

2) Wash your hands or use some latex gloves to keep fingerprints and "skin oils" off the LCD and rear side of the new panel.

Overall, you want a very clean workspace for this project. Because keeping the underside of the new panel and LCD clear of any debris is important.

peterbastian, · Reply

2 critical steps: moving left to right from home button to the right corner, the wifi antena is folded over and you will cut the fold if you go right to left. Steps 22-23 talk about avoiding cutting the digitizing cable. I was replacing the front glass and this cable is replaced so there is no need to protect this cable. the cable is part of the front glass(left side near base edge)

philip patinka, · Reply

I have just had to carry out this repair a few times on customer iPads with a Headphone Jack snapped inside the socket. The replacement Headphone jack assembly is about $60, and since it was broken and I could not remove the broken headphone jack I tried another approach. Get a drawing pin and head it up until it is glowing red, the push it through the plastic and melt a minute hole in the rear of the socket. Let the drawing pin cool down and push right through to push the damaged headphone jack out of the front of the socket. Repair worked perfectly on both occasions and saved having to fit a $60 part. Well worth a try as even if you get it wrong you will only have to fit a part that you would have had to fit anyway!

Richard, · Reply

FIRSTLY - I wanted to say a lot of these comments are not related to this specific iPad.. 'ipad 3 WIFI'. People are posting about watching out for GSM antenna's and iPad4 home buttons. Be sure you are on the correct guide because the differences will cause you headache's and money!

Anywho, wow! I am not sure if I am working on some kind of adhesive-freak of an iPad or not, but the iOpener is not doing any help! I am replacing a cracked digitizer nonetheless, but it's coming away in microscopic pieces. But I do not see how anyone can take this glass off without cracking it. I'm wondering if maybe I should microwave my iOpener longer than 1 minute (thermal gun says it's 127 degrees)? At any rate, I have gotten most of the way down the right side before deciding I am going to use a heat gun on low. I see by the comments people are breaking the antenna on the lower right corner, so I am stopping until I get a heat gun.

Protecting the eyes is a must!

Steve, · Reply

It is ver likely that the glass you are trying to replace is broken, and this is tempered glass therefore it will chatter in many small pieces while you are working on it. Take this safety advice very seriously and protect your eyes!!! The glass pieces fly everywhere. AGAIN: PROTECT YOUR EYES!!!! BE SAFE!!!

McGiord, · Reply

there is the power flex cable near the top right side of the screen. It could be damaged is not careful.

ChiangFeng Li, · Reply

Yes, I severed this one on my first attempt. Might note that you want to start prying open below the sound controls. Additionally I found that a razor was helpful in getting the first pic into the device. Obviously you want to be careful as a razor could cause some serious damage, but I just used the tip of the metal to get some space to fit a pick.

Nick Dresang, · Reply

Maybe I was doing it wrong, but the plastic opening tool I was using kept bending before it was prying anything apart. Therefore I suggest using either a metal spudger or a razor blade to make the very first opening but being VERY careful. My assistant/wife later scratched the LCD going overboard with the metal tools.

Logan Kennedy, · Reply

There is a way of making the Wifi/Bluetooth Antenna replacement much easier. If you have a steady hand and a soldering iron simply desolder the connecting cable from the bottom of the antenna and solder it back onto the new antenna. This means there is no need to dismantle the iPad and the repair is much faster. Hope this helps :-)

Richard, · Reply

The process was pretty straightforward, you do need to be careful in a few spots (like the wifi antenna in the lower right) but overall I found it to be of medium level of difficulty.

It took me 2.5hrs to slowly dismantle and replace the broken screen.

Here are some tips I learned while doing it:

- instead of plastic spudger, better to use kit knife or razor blade. I found plastic to bend and malform quite easily.

- watch out for lower right corner where wifi antenna sits, it's easy to damage it

- if you have a cracked screen, use protective goggles - i used tape to secure broken glass pieces together, but that didn't quite work and lots of glass was flying as I was prying the screen off the ipad

- opening tool you put in the microwave sold here is not worth it - didn't do that great for me. I mostly used a hair drier and was very successful melting adhesive

- tools I'd only need again to do it again - guitar picks, kit knife, phillips screwdriver, hair drier :D

Overall, I found it to be quite interesting project!

michalmotykiewicz, · Reply

Had much more success using the metal spudger versus the plastic opening tool that came with the front panel kit.

Paul Boyer, · Reply

Be sure to have a replacement Bluetooth Wi-Fi antenna because it is very likely to get the cable broken at this step.

McGiord, · Reply

I nearly broke my wifi antenna because I didn't read this whole step clearly and didn't go backwards and release the antenna from the front panel. Admittedly, this is my own fault but I've edited the step to make this point more clear.

Logan Kennedy, · Reply

My screen was way too shattered for me to be able to use the screen instructions as suggested, so I followed the general principal but ignored the order around, because that simply wouldn't have worked...and destroyed the antenna.

Maybe step one should be "BE CAREFUL IN THIS CORNER OR YOU WILL BREAK THE ANTENNA!" A diagram highlighting where all the cables (antenna, digitiser, volume, toggle switch) lie with the screen still attached would be helpful too.

HRB, · Reply

Be extremely cautious on this step! I did it wrong and my antenna went to !@#$.

Lars Lien Ankile, · Reply

This should include details about the Home Button Ribbon Cable. Unlike an iPad 3 (which doesn't have this cable) the iPad 4 has a Home Button Ribbon Cable that runs along the left side of the Home Button and is adhered to the glass. If the guitar pick is inserted too far (more than 0.5") it is possible to damage or sever this cable.

robjpete, · Reply

In my case I damaged the right GSM antenna which was somehow sticked to the front panel... Be really careful as I really didn't felt that I was damaging anything...

MattLise Gaillzik, · Reply

The second photo does not show the iPad 4's Home Button Ribbon Cable.

robjpete, · Reply

Should be right-hand corner

longg, · Reply

Check to the right of the Home button to see if the wifi/bluetooth antenna is still stuck to the glass side or has released. If it is still stuck to the glass use the guitar pick to carefully scrape it off. If your goal is to replace the antenna, then you needn't be so careful.

jerry81, · Reply

Be very careful not to touch the LCD. It's a pain to remove smudges. One thing that might help when you need to hold it while reattaching it during reassembly: attach a small suction cup to the metal side. That way you can avoid touching the sides where your hand might slip to the LCD side.

patjmccarthy, · Reply

Do you need to use some adhesive strips to remount the plastic bezel? The bezel I ordered didn't come with any and the ones you can order only seem to have strips for mounting the glass and not the bezel.

James, · Reply

You'd better. The original bezel is glued. You can find 3mm fine/double-sided (black) tape on Amazon. I use it when I replace the bezel because they fit perfectly under the bezel. I use for all sorts of repairs on iPhones, Samsungs, etc. Such as this [one|http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GIS...]

Rany,

It would be good to see how reassembling.

Gabriel Ganga, · Reply

Yes, or at least show where the adhesive parts go

Luke Barone, · Reply

I'll second the request to see how to reassemble!

Maggie, · Reply

It is a really good idea to apply a bit of heat to this ribbon cable prior to removal. Ribbon cables that are held in place with adhesive can tear easily. Taking a moment to warm it up will help make the removal much easier.

Joshua, · Reply

After I replaced the digitizer only half the screen is working. Any reason for this problem ?

Pedro Trindade, · Reply

(Step 14 should be deleted.)

John Cain, · Reply

why it should be deleted?

i think it's necessary to remove the digitizer cable before we lift up the logicboard

Can Han,

It should go without saying, but anytime you are handling the LCD, try to only touch the edges. Otherwise you'll be scrubbing fingerprints for 15 minutes. Not that I'm speaking from personal experience or anything.

Ed Chapman, · Reply

Note the distance of the home button mount from the bottom edge of the digitizer. Cut and pasted from the adhesive tutorial (thanks, John): Make sure the home button mounting bracket has a parallel gap of 1-2 mm from the bottom of the digitizer.

patjmccarthy, · Reply

The only problem I found during this whole thing was reattaching the camera bracket to the new digitizer. iFixit's Adhesive pack, which comes with the front panel kit, does not have any adhesive for that part. Hopefully, yours will still have some glue that will be enough to glue it back, like mine.

ERICOLIVETREE, · Reply

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