iMac Intel 20" EMC 2266 Logic Board Replacement

This guide will show you how to replace your iMac's logic board.

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Edit Step 1 Access Door  ¶ 

  • Lay your iMac front side down on a table with the lower edge facing yourself.

  • Loosen the single Phillips screw in the center of the access door.

  • This screw is captive in the access door.

  • Remove the access door from your iMac.

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Edit Step 2 Glass Panel  ¶ 

  • The glass panel is fixed onto the front bezel with fourteen magnets around its perimeter.

  • Stick two suction cups to opposing corners of the glass panel.

  • To attach the suction cups we sell, first position the suction cup with the movable handle parallel to the face of the glass panel. While lightly holding the suction cup against the glass, raise the movable handle until it is parallel with the other handle.

  • If your suction cups refuse to stick, try cleaning both the glass panel and the suction cup with a mild solvent.

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Gently pull the glass panel straight up off the iMac.

  • The glass panel has several positioning pins around its perimeter. To avoid shearing these pins off the glass panel, be sure to only pull straight up during removal.

  • Be meticulous about cleaning the LCD and the inside face of the glass panel before reinstallation, as any fingerprints or dust trapped inside will be annoyingly visible when the display is on.

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Edit Step 4 Front Bezel  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 12 screws securing the front bezel to the rear case:

    • Eight 13 mm T8 Torx.

    • Four 25 mm T8 Torx.

  • On the 24" iMac Intel Model A1225, the bottom center two screws are long (26mm), four on sides (two left, two right) are medium (18mm), and the remaining 6 (four top, two bottom corners) are short (14mm).

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • The front bezel is still attached to the iMac by the microphone cable.

  • Gently lift the front bezel from its top edge off the rear case.

  • Once the top edge of the front bezel has cleared the rear case, rotate the front bezel toward the stand and lift it off the rear case.

  • Rotate the front bezel away from the rest of the device and lay it above the top edge of the iMac.

  • When reinstalling the front bezel, start at the lower edge and make sure it is flush with the rear case before lowering the top edge onto the iMac.

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the microphone cable connector, removing tape as necessary.

  • For the front bezel to sit properly, be sure to tuck the microphone cable and connector into the void next to the camera board.

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Edit Step 7 Display Panel  ¶ 

  • Pull the LCD temperature sensor connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

  • (located at the top of the logic board on the 24")

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Remove the two T6 Torx screws securing the display data cable to the logic board.

  • Use the attached black tab to pull the display data cable connector straight away from the logic board.

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Remove the eight T8 Torx screws securing the display panel to the rear case.

  • Lift the display panel from its left edge and rotate it toward the right edge of the iMac.

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • With the display panel still lifted, disconnect the four inverter cables.

  • During reinstallation, place the four inverter cable connectors in voids between components attached to the rear panel so the display panel will sit flush on the edges of the rear case.

  • (combined into one plug in on the 24")

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Edit Step 11 Right Speaker  ¶ 

  • Remove the single T10 Torx screw securing the right speaker to the rear case.

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the right speaker cable connector from the audio board by pulling it straight up from its socket.

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Gently lift the right speaker out of the rear case.

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Edit Step 14 Logic Board  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the optical drive fan connector from the audio board by pulling it straight away from its socket.

  • Pull the connector toward the top edge of your iMac.

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Gently lift the optical drive fan off the plastic posts protruding from the rear case.

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the optical drive data cable connector and its socket.

  • Twist the spudger to separate the connector from its socket.

  • It is helpful to work from alternating sides to "walk" the connector out of its socket.

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the microphone cable connector from the audio board by pulling it straight up from its socket.

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the following connectors:

    • Hard drive thermal sensor cable.

    • Optical drive thermal sensor cable.

    • Hard drive fan cable.

  • When removing these connectors, it is helpful use your thumbnails to push the ears on either side of the connector toward the top of your iMac.

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the DC-in cable by simultaneously depressing both locking arms and pulling its connector away from the socket on the logic board.

  • After both locking arms pass their retaining tabs, it is helpful to push them toward the left edge of your iMac with one hand while pulling on the body of the connector with your other hand.

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Pull the SATA data cable straight up off the logic board.

  • The SATA connector on most iMacs tends to stick in its socket on the logic board. If you are having trouble disconnecting the SATA cable, insert a metal spudger or any other thin tool into the gap between the SATA connector and its socket and twist the spudger's shaft to safely separate the two pieces.

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna connectors up off the AirPort Extreme card.

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the left speaker connector from the audio board by pulling it straight away from its socket.

  • Pull the connector parallel to the face of the audio board.

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Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • De-route the left fan cable from the channel on the CPU fan.

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Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the following connectors:

    • Ambient temperature sensor cable.

    • Power button cable.

    • CPU fan cable.

  • Pull the power button and CPU fan connectors straight up off the logic board, and pull the ambient temperature sensor cable toward the lower edge of the iMac.

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Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the camera cable connector from the logic board by pulling it straight up from its socket.

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Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the bluetooth antenna connector up off the bluetooth board.

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Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • Use the sharp end of a spudger to peel the EMI tape off the headphone/microphone jacks.

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Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the rear case:

    • Three fine-thread T10 Torx.

    • Six coarse-thread T10 Torx.

    • One longer coarse-thread T10 Torx.

    • Two coarse-thread T8 Torx.

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Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • Lift the logic board assembly out of the rear case, minding any cables or I/O ports that may get caught.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iMac Intel 20" EMC 2266 device page.

Required Tools

TR8 Torx Security Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock


$2.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$9.95 · 30 In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

The grid won't fall off by itself. You'll have to help it. Use the smallest screwdriver you have; the Torx 6 worked fine for me. It should enter in one of the many holes composing the grid. Use it as a lever to ploy the grid a little bit. You may catch it with your fingers and that's it.

Be carefull not to damage the hole by a too strong leverage.

Laurent, · Reply

A good alternative to the two heavy duty suction cups is a regular household plunger.

Russell Knight, · Reply

I would strongly suggest taping the screws down on a piece of paper towel or cloth in the same order you take them out, as there are different lengths in no particular order and they don't all fit into just any hole. Unless you keep track of which hole each screw belongs, there is no other way of knowing. I stress taping because I didn't tape mine down and after bumping the table I was working on they scattered, leaving me to guess.

Len, · Reply

Even better, use an ice cube tray to keep the screws from each step together.

maccentric, · Reply

how about using the magnets near the screws to keep their positions?

Andy, · Reply

I use an 18 count egg carton (or two) and label each egg slot with a Sharpie. Works great.

airira, · Reply

During reinstallation of the LCD panel, be sure that the iSight microphone cable does not become trapped behind the panel.

Ocean Yamaha, · Reply

I found this to be the most frustrating thing to remove out of everything under the hood. I had to have my wife use her skinny, smaller fingers to jimmy it up, but the tape kept pulling up and separating from the connector. I was worried that I was pulling in the wrong direction (what do I know about logic boards?) and that the tab was going to come off as it is slick tape. She eventually got it, but she did have to use some force. If you don't have a set of skinny fingers, just be patient and use a little force. I think the instructions should tell you to pull straight UP on the black tab, rather than 'away from the logic board', for those of us that don't really understand the technical components/guts of a computer. Honestly, my wife knows less than I do, but she could have done this as easily as me.

Len, · Reply

Some extra tools I found to be invaluable in this whole process was canned air (used for keyboards and office dust), a microfiber cloth (preferably the one that came with your iMac if you still have it, but you can get these almost anywhere these days)and one of those soft foam monitor covers to put over the monitor while your friend is holding it up (a soft sheet or towel might work too). If your computer is a few years old like mine, there will be a considerable amount of dust that you will want to clear out (and will fly everywhere anyway). Once you cleared that out and replace the hard drive, wait until you've got the bezel and screws back on before using the canned air and microfiber cloth to make sure all dust and lint is clear of the monitor. This is where the second person will come in handy again. They can wipe while you spray. Get your glass top with suction cups still attached ready and wipe that with the cloth and air as well. While your friend does one last wipe of the glass and then the monitor, put the glass on as soon as possible so no more lint or dust falls onto the monitor. I did this and the monitor looks as beautiful and clear as the day I bought the iMac. It is truly a brilliant and beautiful design by Apple and LG.

Len, · Reply

I did a HD replacement on my 24 inch iMac. It's mostly the same, but it does not have disconnectable inverter cables. Instead, there's a single cable that can't be disconnected. It sits too tight to rotate the display to the degree that you can lean it against something, so the only way to get the job done was to call in an extra set of hands to hold the display while I took out the hard drive.

Marijn, · Reply

I'm almost sure by HD you meant HDD (Hard disc drive).

Charles Hess,

As Marijn said, there are no disconnectable inverter cables on the 24" iMac, just a single thick cable in the middle of the back that is heavily taped with black electrical tape. I imagine you could remove that and retape, but it seems like it would be more trouble than it's worth. There is definitely enough clearance for someone else to hold the monitor up and away from the hard drive. For this reason, I would not attempt to replace the hard drive on a 24" without another person to help. The monitor is not heavy, and it doesn't take a ton of time to remove the old hard drive. It would also help if one of you has skinny fingers ;-).

Len, · Reply

Mark them before unplugging so you can reconnect them the right way when reinstalling!

Dirk Simons, · Reply

On the 24" iMac, the single inverter cable can be easily disconnected from the back of the LCD panel after peeling back some of the thin black plastic film. It is not necessary to disconnect the panel if you have four hands, but sure makes the job easier.

Geoff Shepherd, · Reply

sh******t I didn't mark the connectors and now I don't know how to plug them back. I'm doomed ! any trick to identify them ?


Julien Waroux, · Reply

Same here. What did you do? Try them both ways?

Leon Wagner,

When you're finished with changing the components, take care of placing the cable exactly in the empty space next to the cooling fan, otherwise your Mac will make an awful noise like a submachine gun, when restarting.

Alain Brose, · Reply

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