iMac Intel 20" EMC 2133 and 2210 Hard Drive Replacement

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

Replace the hard drive in your iMac Intel 20" EMC 2133 and 2210.

Upgrade your hard drive for more storage capacity.

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Edit Step 1 Access Door  ¶ 

  • Loosen the single Phillips screw in the center of the access door.

  • This screw is captive in the access door.

  • Remove the access door from your iMac.

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Edit Step 2 Glass Panel  ¶ 

  • The glass panel is fixed onto the front bezel with fourteen magnets around its perimeter.

  • Stick two suction cups to opposing corners of the glass panel.

  • To attach the suction cups we sell, first position the suction cup with the movable handle parallel to the face of the glass panel. While lightly holding the suction cup against the glass, raise the movable handle until it is parallel with the other handle.

  • If your suction cups refuse to stick, try cleaning both the glass panel and the suction cup with a mild solvent such as Windex.

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Gently pull the glass panel straight up off the iMac.

  • The glass panel has several positioning pins around its perimeter. To avoid shearing these pins off the glass panel, be sure to only pull straight up during removal.

  • Be meticulous about cleaning the LCD and the inside face of the glass panel before reinstallation, as any fingerprints or dust trapped inside will be annoyingly visible when the display is on. Placing the glass flat, inside face down, on a fresh aluminum-foil surface is a good way to keep it clean.

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Edit Step 4 Front Bezel  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 12 screws securing the front bezel to the rear case:

    • Eight 13 mm T8 Torx.

    • Four 25 mm T8 Torx.

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • The front bezel is still attached to the iMac by the microphone cable.

  • Gently lift the front bezel from its top edge off the rear case. It helps to use your thumbs to push down very gently on the corners of the display.

  • Once the top edge of the front bezel has cleared the rear case, rotate the front bezel toward the stand and lift it off the rear case.

  • When reinstalling the front bezel, start at the lower edge and make sure it is flush with the rear case before lowering the top edge onto the iMac.

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the microphone cable connector, removing tape as necessary.

  • For the front bezel to sit properly, be sure to tuck the microphone cable and connector into the void next to the camera board.

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Edit Step 7 Display Panel  ¶ 

  • Pull the LCD temperature sensor connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

  • If necessary, de-route the LCD temperature sensor cable from behind the logic board.

  • When you remove the LCD, check the routing of the LCD temperature display cable. On reinstalling the display, be sure this cable does not block one of the bottom screws for the front bezel.

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 5.3 mm T6 Torx screws securing the data display cable to the logic board.

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Use the attached black tab to pull the data display cable connector away from the logic board.

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Remove the eight 12 mm T8 Torx screws securing the display panel to the rear case.

  • Lift the display panel from its left edge and rotate it toward the right edge of the iMac.

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • With the display panel still lifted, disconnect the four inverter cables.

  • During reinstallation, place the four inverter cable connectors in voids between components attached to the rear panel so the display panel will sit flush.

  • During reassembly, the order of the inverter cables is interchangeable within each socket.

  • If you are replacing a hard drive and have an extra set of hands, it is possible to reach in and remove the drive without disconnecting anything but the LCD temp and display connector in the previous step with the LCD in its propped position.

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Edit Step 12 Hard Drive  ¶ 

  • If necessary, remove the pieces of tape securing the hard drive/optical drive thermal sensor cables to your iMac.

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the hard drive thermal sensor by pulling its connector toward the top of your iMac.

  • When removing this connector, it is helpful use your thumbnails to push the ears on either side of the connector toward the top of your iMac.

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Pressing the top of the hard drive bracket down to release it from the rear case requires a substantial amount of force. We recommend laying your iMac stand-side down on a table to avoid knocking it over.

  • Press the hard drive bracket down toward the bottom edge of your iMac to free it from the rear case, then rotate the top of the drive toward yourself.

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Rotate the hard drive toward yourself, then lift it up off its mounting pins.

  • The hard drive is still connected via the SATA cables.

  • When reinstalling your hard drive, be careful not to push the rubber grommets through the openings in the chassis with the lower hard drive pins as retrieving them may require logic board removal.

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the SATA power cable connector and the edge of the hard drive.

  • Twist the spudger to separate the connector from the hard drive.

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Pull the SATA power connector away from the hard drive.

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the SATA data cable by pulling its connector away from the hard drive.

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Edit Step 19 Hard Drive  ¶ 

  • Remove the piece of foam tape covering the hard drive thermal sensor.

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to lift the thermal sensor lock finger while pulling lightly on the thermal sensor cable.

  • If your thermal sensor seems to be stuck to the face of the hard drive, skip to the next step.

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the thermal sensor bracket off the face of the hard drive.

  • If you're replacing your hard drive, transfer this bracket and the thermal sensor to your new hard drive. If the adhesive refuses to stick during reinstallation, apply double-stick tape to the underside of the two flat ears of the thermal sensor bracket.

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Remove the two T8 Torx screws securing the hard drive bracket to the hard drive.

  • After you remove these two screws, the hard drive bracket will fall away from the hard drive.

  • Don't forget to transfer these to your new hard drive.

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Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Remove the two T8 Torx pins from the connector side of your hard drive.

  • Don't forget to transfer these to your new hard drive.

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Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to remove the piece of EMI foam from the underside of your hard drive.

  • Don't forget to transfer this to your new hard drive.

  • If you are installing a new hard drive, we have an OS X install guide to get you up and running.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iMac Intel 20" EMC 2133 and 2210 device page.

Required Tools

TR8 Torx Security Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$9.95 · 32 In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Related Products

2 TB 3.5" Hard Drive

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Comments Comments are onturn off

Great instructions - used them for my 2134 model. Only difference is on Step 9 - see comments on that step.

Jim Laredo, · Reply

Great directions. The 250 GB Segate in my 2133 failed SMART (two years old) so I replaced it with a 1TB WD Blue drive.

kevinp, · Reply

Wonderful guide. I used it to replace a dead drive in my wife's 24" iMac. Installed a WD Caviar Black 2 TB. I'm jealous because her system now runs faster than mine ;-P.

Here is another reason to DIY this repair, while Apple's labor fee is reasonable, their warranty policy for repairs is not. If you have a new drive installed at the Apple store, your warranty on the drive is only 90 days. Worse yet, the drives are Apple branded, so you can't go to the hard drive manufacturer if the drive fails on day 91.

Mr Mike, · Reply

The two screws in step 8, page 3 are T7 - not T6. Apart from that, excellent guide!

Gunnar Hoffsten, · Reply

When first starting with my OS (Snow Leopard) disk all I got was a whitish or gray screen, not even the mouse. So I started freaking out a bit. I couldn't get the key board to stay on so I kept pushing the keyboard power button while holding the option button and then the mouse arrow came up on the screen. After that the apple sign and then the install procedure started, so I was able to breathe again. So about five in the morning I was able to let it do it's thing and get some sleep. The next day I was able to restore from the external hard drive using Time Machine and so far my IMac 20" 7,1 #2133 is running super fast again probably better than when I got it brand new " if that's possible ". With your instructions on I fixit.com and your videos on YouTube it was pretty darn easy, even for someone like me who has never worked on a computer. The most I've done on a computer I installed a new program (Snow Leopard). Thank you, Tom D.

thcdineen, · Reply

You can install a Seagate Momentus XT 500GB Hybrid SSD in this iMac without issues.

https://plus.google.com/u/0/108374099338...

Steven Hanlon, · Reply

Instructions worked like a charm on my 24" 2134 (taking into account reader's contributions for Step 9). Someone suggested covering the LCD with clingfilm ("Saranwrap") and this is an awesome idea. I was able to have a helper hold the panel while I worked on the hard drive and got no dust or fingerprints on it at all.

A tip if you are replacing the stock hard drive with an SSD: install the SSD onto its carrier so it'll fit in the space left by the hard drive before starting so your helper doesn't have the opportunity to be sarcastic while waiting for you to do it in the middle of the build :-)

Bozo Z Clown, · Reply

Absolutely fantastic faultless guide. Thanks so much! I succesfully installed a Western Digital 2TB SATA drive to my mac to replace our completely failed drive. I had absolutely no issues, although I could have done with some double sided tape to secure some of the sponge (use ordinary tape doubled over in the end.

I also found 2 ordinary suction cups fromone of those little pull down sun blinds in the car were sufficient to pull the screen off.

All now up and running, fresh install of snow leopard and ilife downloading as I write.

Cant tell you how happy I am to have it all up and working again for just the price of the drive (bought from amazon) and some RAM as why not max it out (Crucial memory)

Thanks Ifixit

Sam , · Reply

This step by step is very complete. Be aware that if you are replacing a hard drive with an SSD type and this one is 2.5-in, you will need a mounting bracket or live in shame by using mounting tape.

Gil Lopez, · Reply

Great instructions.

Tip: I sorted all the screws into shot glasses and put little pieces of masking tape near them with the number of the step they correspond to.

Also - Got a cheap set of Torx screwdrivers on amazon, and they turned out to be terrible. Poorly precisioned tips and I had to get a decent set to get the job done. They were just not catching the screws. There was a $4.99 Kobalt "8 in 1" set I got a Lowes that was a much better deal, considering the ones I got were equally priced on Amazon.

Chris Scala, · Reply

Best instructions I've found. The entire process turned out to take less than 1 1/2 hours. The only issue I had, like some others, was the tools I had at hand. Once I bought myself a better quality Torx set this went off without a hitch. Thank you for the help! Special thanks to Chris Scala for his tip about separating the screws with shot glasses. I'm taking that tip with me everywhere I go from now on. Worked like a charm!

David Moorhead, · Reply

Wonderful guide! The instructions were spot on. Thank-you!

stillday, · Reply

I have a 500GB hard drive in my 20" (replaced by APPLE during AppleCare). Is there a way to add an SSD to the mix? Much like the video for the late 2011 iMac - putting a second SSD drive behind the optical drive?

Or should I just replace the HD with a smaller SSD and use external storage for iTunes etc.?

Also, with this iMac being so limited in RAM (4GB Max, yes?) Is it worth spending the money and time to upgrade the HD to SSD?

I look forward to hearing your thoughts.

http://about.me/DwaineStroud

Dwaine Stroud, · Reply

This really was a disaster for me. The 2008 iMac 2210 was much more difficult to open, and I almost ruined the computer. I spent well over 3 hours just trying to work the instructions, and I am pretty handy with computers. I finally quit, and tried to follow the instructions to just quit, and when trying to restart, dead. I opened it again, rechecked everything, turned it on, and had a bad monitor picture (low resolution). Third time, rechecked everything again, and it worked, but the monitor now has a slight red shadow tint on one side of the monitor. So, never got the HDD installed, I'm returning it, and probably wind up buying a new Mac Mini. Be careful! And be willing to lose your computer, or pay to have it restored by a professional.

d3nn151950, · Reply

A couple of general tips, based on my experience taking this thing apart twice in two days.

As noted above, the case is plastic, not metal, so you can strip out or misalign the screws if things aren't lined up, particularly the 8 T8s around the display. I used my T6 to align the ears on the display with the screw sockets by gently putting it down the adjacent hole and levering the display so the hole I was working with lined up. You only need to do this once on each side. Once one screw is seated, the others on that side should be lined up.

I was missing my extra pair of hands today so I had to reattach the inverter cables solo. I found it was easier from the top, which was made easy by the fact I was working on a table and could easily get around to the other side. Might just be a question of handedness (I'm a righty) or perhaps I'm just uncoordinated.

paul beard, · Reply

I took mine apart a second time to track down why the fan was constantly running at a high speed. I reseated the sensor cables, retaped the sensor to the hard drive, and it persisted. Then I ran the Apple Hardware Test (comes with it on DVD or might be installed) and it showed a bad sensor. I then went for the longer test, got tired waiting for it to complete, restarted, and the noise was gone. Maybe the test reset it? I did an SMC reset to be doubly sure and installed SSDFanControl in case it acts up again.

paul beard, · Reply

Your guides are excellent. I was able to resurrect my iMac hardware rather easily. The videos take the fear out of opening the sacred box. Getting the software to work was another thing. Very tedious but worth the effort.

Thanks,

Phillip Madonia, · Reply

I have just replaced the original hard drive in my iMac 2133 (320 GB) with a brand new 1TB hybrid disk from Seagate (ST1000DX001). I also replaced the PRAM battery.

The guide was very helpful and the replacement was not difficult.

markp, · Reply

Will the ST1000DX001 work in Early 2009 24" iMac Core 2 Duo? I just purchased one on Amazon and now I'm frantically searching to find out if it will be compatible :-/

Joshua Rountree,

This guide is not exactly precise for the iMac 24" MA878LL 7,1. There are some differences on the connections of the thermal sensors to the Hard Drive. I find it is not necessary to also disconnect the Thermal sensor from the board location only on the drive so as to move it to the new drive. Reassembly did not go well as far as the microphone cable connection. Whatever did not re-connect as expected did NOT result in a functioning internal microphone. The external input functions with a separate microphone, but the internal is dead. It could be software/driver malfunction or the fact that the tiny miniscule connections at the bezel are so delicate that it will no longer function, even after taking the bezel off 2 more times to insure the connection is correct and using electrical tape to keep the delicate connectors together. Wishing you better 'luck' than I had with this process.

frrwilburn, · Reply

I was able to successfully install the new HD I purchased from ifixit.com however once I started up my computer and attempted to install my Apple OS10 Snow I was not able to choose the new HD for installation because my imac does not see the new HD. Any advice or help will be greatly appreciated.

Joe Raats, · Reply

This may be too late now, but look at the link at step 24 (OSX install guide). It tells you what to do.

Lisa Mac,

Thank you so much!!! I have used your site for other things like 3Ds, iPhone repair, etc. My computer broke, and I had no idea what was wrong with it, but I knew that once I could figure out the problem, I would be able to fix it. It took me a while to figure out what was wrong with my computer (I also just put it to the side and forgot about it). Thanks to your site I followed these instructions, paid $50 for a hard drive, and now it is working perfectly. I feel like I got a new computer for $50! Thanks so much. I will always be a devoted fan!! You have saved me tons of money over the years with the other items I have fixed. Thanks again!

Lisa Mac, · Reply

isn't it actually pc2-5300s ?

grze, · Reply

At this stage and later handling the LCD I found thin cotton gloves helped to reduce smudges

john31, · Reply

My GPS unit's car mount suction cup worked nicely here - couldn't find any at the store and didn't want to wait for mail order!

Two cups would make it easier but one is fine if you place it in the center and are careful to pull the panel straight out.

Mathew Hendry, · Reply

Why use suction cups when some finger nails will do the job nicely, though a plastic spudger might work too. Start at a top corner. Prize the glass away from the case and leave finger nails in. Move the other hand along the top edge and then with finger spread peel the screen cover away. Be careful not to twist plastic I suppose, but I've had no difficulties.

damianwise, · Reply

3M Command Strip hooks in opposite corners is another fabulous option when suction cups are not available!

Adam McCombs, · Reply

Tape works fine, here. Search for a YouTube video for a simple look-see.

Richard, · Reply

I didn't have any suction cups, but my pencil sharpener (the kind that suctions to the table) worked great. I put it on the middle and lifted straight up.

Lisa Mac, · Reply

In order to avoid unnecessary smudges and what not I covered the LCD itself with some plastic wrap while doing the hard drive upgrade. When I reinstalled it all I needed to do was blow off a few dust particles.

robgendreau, · Reply

While you are at it, it is worth cleaning out dust within the case to help with cooling - particularly around the fans and vents.

For the screen I used a lens cleaner from my camera bag. These have very fine fibers and won't leave detritus.

Mathew Hendry, · Reply

Note that the front glass panel is quite light. When reassembling I found it impossible to get the LCD free of dust with the computer lying on its back. I had success with standing the computer up, tilting the LCD down as far as it goes, holding the glass panel upright in front of the computer (about 1 foot away), lightly spraying both the LCD and the back side of the glass panel with compressed air, and then attaching the glass panel (with the computer upright). It took me 5 tries before it was completely clean of dust once the front glass was on.

axel, · Reply

On the 24" EMC2134 there are 3 screw sizes: 6x13, 4x20 & 2x30mm, particular note should be made of their location.

john31, · Reply

Note for the less experienced.. the case is plastic and the metal coarse thread screws will easily cut a new thread in the hole if you don't line up the screw in the original thread. Do this a few times and the hole will be stripped and the screw no longer tightens.

TIP:- place the screw in the hole and rotate BACKWARDS/counter clockwise (for RH threads) until you hear/feel it click/drop into the original thread then tighten the screw down. rotate it a couple times to get the feel of things. If there is any significant resistance you probably don't have the original thread.

This trick also works on the fine metal thread screws and can help avoid cross threading them.

HIH

Richdave, · Reply

On the 24 inch iMac Model A1225 EMC #2134, the two T8 Torx screws in the middle are the longer of the four total bottom 25 mm screws. Just a note for reassembly.

bhoffs, · Reply

I would just add … the corners of the display being the soft foam that lines the display. That helped for me.

Brian Rogalski, · Reply

I worked with the top of the screen facing me. I wore the bezel around my neck at this step to make sure I didn't drop it.

marcintosh, · Reply

I avoided this step by just flipping the housing over and having it lay flat on the table. The tape on mine was on really tight, and I risking ripping the wires out of the connector if I messed with it (I didn't have some really small scissors which might have helped removing it). I would suggest either securing the body of the iMac and the housing to the table you're working on, or somehow securing the housing to the body, so that it doesn't move around accidentally, since it's only hanging on by a very thin wire at that point.

robgendreau, · Reply

Make sure you do not pull this apart by the wires. Have a firm grasp on the plastic parts. Do not force back together. It only goes back together one way. Also, it is crucial when placing the aluminum bezel back in place that this wire is out of the way. It often gets in the way and is easily damaged.

Kyle Freeman, · Reply

CAUTION - To disconnect the cable, you'll need to support the bezel while you carefully extract slack microphone cable which is tightly tucked within the iMac. (I didn't have this guide's 'notes on' and missed robgendreau's warning - then inadvertently shifted the bezel and busted my microphone cable in this step.)

dagnew, · Reply

Don't forget to pull the microphone cord out before you put the panel back on. Otherwise you will have to go back and remove screws to find that microphone cord

Melvin Hines, · Reply

This was the most confusing step, because the video shows MJ just tilting the monitor open, and I had a ribbon cable hooked up to it. Finally figured out that the ribbon cable was connected to the LCD temp sensor cable, and it was neatly tucked under the adjacent fan. Had to pull it pretty hard to get it out from under the fan, and then could tilt the LCD. Instructions are not completely clear about this, only that you may have to reroute the cable around the motherboard.

d3nn151950, · Reply

My Torx 6 driver purchased from ifixit didn't fit the screws well and potentially would strip them. Had to purchase a better driver to fit better in order to loosen these screws.

kakisback, · Reply

reinstalling these screws requires extra care to be sure you don't drop it and loose it under any of the other components.

kakisback, · Reply

Make sure not to drop the screws.

ulan, · Reply

Removing these screws was the most difficult part of the whole job. They were tight and felt as if the heads were about to chew up. I had to press really hard and jerk the screwdriver counter clockwise to loosen them. Despite others' warnings, I managed to drop a screw when reinserting.

kevinp, · Reply

The only tool I needed to buy was the T6 Star Bit - the first auto store I went to had it. These screws are tiny so you have to be careful not to drop them!

James Miles, · Reply

When reinstalling these tiny screws, consider placing the iMac upright. That way when you (inevitably) drop these tiny screws, you don't lose them in the guts of the computer where they are likely to fall into a fan.

stown1211, · Reply

Yes, this step is very difficult. I finally used a magnet to magnetize the torx driver, and that helped immensely...however, that was AFTER I lost the right one inside the computer. You really only need one screw to reattach the monitor connector, however.

d3nn151950, · Reply

Argh! I dropped my right screw into the bowels of the iMac. I can't find it anywhere and am loath to leave it rattling around as well as to tear down the machine any further.

steven macfarlane, · Reply

Well, I followed the instructions for right-speaker removal and optical drive fan removal and still couldn't find the right screw. I couldn't hear it rattle either so figured it was wedged somewhere. Using an inspection mirror and flashlight, I finally found it. It had fallen down and wedged between the PCB and the plastic housing (below the ports). I was able to slide it toward the right until it came to the void left by the right speaker where it fell out into my hand.

steven macfarlane,

It's true, these were super tight. I only had a T5 which worked on the first screw, but the second wouldn't budge. Ended up filing the tip off the T5 bit - presto! - instant T6.

marcintosh, · Reply

I was able to disconnect the two connectors to the front easily. With those off, I just rotated the LCD out of the way to expose the hard drive. Again, make sure it's stabilized if you do this so that when you yank on something else you don't send it flying.

robgendreau, · Reply

I did a HD replacement on my 24 inch iMac. It's basically the same, but it does not have disconnectable invertercables. Instead, there's just one cable that's can't be disconnected. It sits too tight to rotate the display to the degree that you can lean it against something, so the only way to get the job done was to call in an extra set of hands to hold the display while I took out the hard drive.

Marijn, · Reply

On the 2134 model, I found that the LCD must be lifted from the RIGHT (not the left as per the 2133 guide) - the connector wires are covered in nylon housing and it's way easier just having someone hold the LCD vertical whilst you replace the HDD, unless you have small fingers and feel like disconnecting completely ...

simon, · Reply

During reassembly, make sure that the data and temperature cables will reach their sockets before inserting the eight screws.

kevinp, · Reply

Make sure to not squeeze the inverter-cables between the superdrive and the display when putting the display back on !

epzzky, · Reply

This was the only step different for my 2134 - it is just one cable that connects to the monitor - disconnect the monitor end rather than the motherboard side.

Jim Laredo, · Reply

There is no need to discnnect the inverter cables if display is positioned against a wall or something of the sort. Make sure it doesn't tumble over !!!

info5825, · Reply

For 24" iMacs, a single power cable is attached on the left side of the screen. To remove the cable, lift the screen from the right side and rotate it to the left. Remove the black plastic protector on the back of the screen and disconnect the cable.

Matt Stichnoth, · Reply

Make sure you squeeze the two ends of the inverter cable together firmly - if not you will get yellow areas on your screen. One of my cables had not quite been clicked together, and I had to unscrew everything all over again.

Philip, · Reply

So does it matter which ones are connected to which?

That is, at each end there are two connectors (one pink/black the other light blue/dark blue on the "male" side). The "female side appear identical. Does it matter if the pink/black "male" one is connected to the wrong "female" one?

Mark Gibson, · Reply

Managed to avoid this step just lifting the lcd panel and holding it with my... head ;)

Antonio Bernardini, · Reply

I'm trying to find some information on replacing the power supply temperature sensor cable. Mine broke during removal of a bad power supply.

Mike Overholt, · Reply

Pull the temperature sensor cable for the optical drive well out of the way so you don't trap it when inserting the new hard drive.

kevinp, · Reply

I didn't do this on my 2133; just pushed wires out of the way.

robgendreau, · Reply

Rather than disconnect this cable, you might as well jump ahead to steps 19-21 and remove the sensor from the drive.

kevinp, · Reply

At first it looked like it needed extra force, rather stand the computer in its stand press the bracket firmly it will come out.

Great set of instructions altogether!

Jim Laredo, · Reply

I just braced the foot/stand against my thigh and found there wasn't much force needed. Had to do it twice as I missed the foam pad on the drive I was replacing.

The whole process was simpler than I expected.

I seem to have missed something somewhere as I now have a lot more fan activity than before. A missed sensor connection maybe. Not looking forward to tracking it down.

paul beard,

I worked with the top of the screen facing me. It was very easy to brace my fingers and press with my thumbs to release the drive. I recommend doing it that way if you can.

marcintosh, · Reply

During reassembly make sure not to trap the cable for the temperature sensor on the superdrive -- it goes on top of the new hard drive.

kevinp, · Reply

Be careful what kind of tape you use. The adhesive used in standard clear tape (especially cheap stuff) can soften when it gets warm causing the sensor to come unstuck.

I used three strips of duct tape - one either side of the sensor and another over the whole thing, being sure it was flush around all the edges.

Mathew Hendry, · Reply

I replaced the Seagate hard drive from my 20" iMac with a Kingston SSD (HyperX 3K 120GB). The Kingston came with a 3.5" adapter that is suited for replacement in a hard drive bay of a standard ATX tower or similar. Unfortunately, the adapter included with my SSD does not have suitable spacing for attachment to the hard drive bracket used to secure a standard sized drive into place.

For me, it was necessary to attach the SSD to the included adapter and then attach a single screw from the iMac bracket plus one of the Torx pins. As such, my adapter and SSD would pivot -- they are not held securely in place. Since the SSD is not mechanical and should not vibrate like a traditional drive, I felt this was adequate. I could have also used tape or similar to hold it in place. Just be forewarned that the distance between the Torx pins is rather long -- you might face similar challenges when using a smaller 2.5" drive + adapter in your replacement.

anonymous 7237, · Reply

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