iMac G5 20" Model A1145 Hard Drive Replacement

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

Replace the hard drive in your iMac G5 20" Model A1145.

Upgrade your hard drive for more storage space.

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Edit Step 1 Access Door  ¶ 

  • Orient the iMac face-side down on a table with the bottom edge facing yourself.

  • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the access door to the bottom grille of your iMac.

  • The screws are captive in the access door.

  • Before beginning the repair, unplug the computer and press and hold the power switch for 20-30 seconds, to discharge internal capacitors.

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Remove the access door.

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Edit Step 3 Front Bezel  ¶ 

  • Remove the three T8 Torx screws securing the front bezel to the rear case along the lower edge of the iMac.

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Turn the computer over.

  • Use your thumbs to press both RAM arms in past the front bezel for enough clearance to lift it off the rear case.

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • While holding the RAM arms in with your thumbs, lift the lower edge of the front bezel enough to clear the rear case.

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Re-orient your iMac so it sits upright on the stand.

  • Insert a plastic card up into the corner of the air vent slot near the top of the rear case.

  • Push the card toward the top of the iMac to release the front bezel latch.

  • Pull the front bezel away from the rear case.

  • Repeat this process for the other side of the front bezel.

  • It may be necessary to apply several layers of duct tape to the top of the access card to aid in releasing the latches.

  • If the bezel refuses to release, try pressing the lower edge back onto the rear case and repeat this opening process.

  • Alternatively, you can use a strong magnet by holding it to the front top left/right corner of the display. You will hear a snapping sound when the hatch is released.

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Lay your iMac stand-side down on a table.

  • Lift the front bezel from its lower edge and rotate it away from the rest of your iMac, minding the RAM arms that may get caught.

  • Lay the front bezel above the rest of the iMac.

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • If necessary, remove the piece of kapton tape wrapped around the microphone and camera connectors.

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Disconnect both the camera and microphone cables.

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Edit Step 10 Lower EMI Shield  ¶ 

  • Peel the lower EMI shield off the lower edge of the iMac and off the two vertical 4" sections on either side of the iMac.

  • It is not necessary to peel the lower EMI shield off the display.

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Tape the lower EMI shield up against the face of the display to keep it out of the way while you work.

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Edit Step 12 Display  ¶ 

  • Remove the two T6 Torx screws securing the display data cable connector to the logic board.

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • To disconnect the display data cable, grab its connector's black tab and pull it away from the face of the logic board.

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Peel back the two EMI tape strips from the left and right edges of the display.

  • During reassembly, it is helpful to use several small strips of tape to hold the EMI shielding along the left and right edges of the display footprint out of the way before lowering the display into the rear case of your iMac.

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Remove the four recessed T10 Torx screws securing the display to the rear case.

  • Bit drivers tend to be too short to reach these screws. Be sure to have a magnetic thin-shafted T10 Torx screwdriver on hand.

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Lift the lower edge of the display slightly out of the rear case.

  • Disconnect both inverter cables (shown in red) by pulling their connectors toward the bottom edge of your iMac.

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Lift the display until it is nearly perpendicular to the rear case.

  • Disconnect the remaining two inverter cables (shown in red) by pulling their connectors toward the top edge of your iMac.

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • While holding the display perpendicular to the rear case, pull it upward to peel off the EMI shield stuck to its upper edge.

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Edit Step 19 Hard Drive  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the hard drive thermal sensor from the logic board by pulling its connector toward the top edge of your iMac.

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Remove the two T10 Torx screws securing the hard drive bracket to the inverter.

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Lift the left edge of the hard drive slightly, then pull it toward the left edge of the iMac.

  • When reinstalling your hard drive, make sure not to push the rubber grommets through the chassis with the hard drive mounting pins as retrieving them may require removing the logic board.

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Rotate the hard drive out of the rear case.

  • Disconnect the SATA data cable by pulling its connector away from the hard drive.

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Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the SATA power cable by pulling its connector away from the hard drive.

  • Remove the hard drive from the iMac.

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Edit Step 24 Hard Drive  ¶ 

  • Remove the two T8 Torx screws securing the hard drive bracket to the connector side of the hard drive.

  • Remove the hard drive bracket.

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Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Remove the two T8 Torx pins from the side of the hard drive.

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Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the hard drive thermal sensor off the adhesive securing it to the hard drive.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iMac G5 20" Model A1145 device page.

Required Tools

TR8 Torx Security Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$9.95 · 32 In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #1 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

If it still does not release try pressing in and out (like an accordion) with the card in one hand and the screen bezel in the other until it pops loose.

rick, · Reply

My A1145 seems to be attached, somehow, on the top via some silver looking strips. It does not seems to want to come off. Is that the wireless?

Chris Arnold, · Reply

Steps 17 and 18 are not strictly necessary if one simply props up the LCD display into a vertical position while the hard drive is removed and replaced. It worked for me anyway!

I would like to send out a big thank you to Andrew Bookholt for submitting this extremely helpful guide!

Mark Orwoll

Mark Orwoll, · Reply

Prop the screen with something soft (plastic or wood) so as not to scratch the screen coating.

Mark, · Reply

If you are changing the power supply - this is a good point to remove the screws to the old power supply to see if the connectors (both of them) are accessible. If you can gently (but firmly) pull the power connector out from under the chassis, you can install the new unit at this step - saving hours of work.

philaro, · Reply

See note to step 44 to easyly remove the power supply without dismantling the whole computer (as also suggested by philaro).

danman, · Reply

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