iMac G5 17" Model A1144 Hard Drive Replacement

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

Upgrade your hard drive for an instant increase in storage space!

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Edit Step 1 Access Door  ¶ 

  • Before you work on the computer, unplug the computer and press the power button for 20-30 seconds to drain the stored energy in the power supply.

  • Loosen the two Phillips screws securing the access door to your iMac.

  • These screws are captive in the access door.

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Remove the access door from your iMac.

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Edit Step 3 Front Bezel  ¶ 

  • Remove the three T8 Torx screws securing the front bezel to the rear panel.

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Orient the iMac face-up, on its backside.

  • Use your thumbs to press both RAM arms in past the front bezel for enough clearance to lift it off the rear case.

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • While holding the RAM arms in with your thumbs, lift the lower edge of the front bezel enough to clear the rear case.

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Re-orient your iMac so it sits upright on the stand.

  • Insert a plastic card up into the corner of the air vent slot at the top of the rear case.

  • Push the card toward the top of the iMac to release the front bezel latch.

  • Pull the front bezel away from the rear case.

  • Repeat this process for the other side of the front bezel.

  • It may be necessary to apply several layers of duct tape to the top of the access card to aid in releasing the latches.

  • If the bezel refuses to release, try pressing the lower edge back onto the rear case and repeat this opening process.

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Lay your iMac stand-side down on a table.

  • Lift the front bezel from its lower edge and rotate it away from the rest of your iMac, minding the RAM arms that may get caught.

  • Lay the front bezel above the rest of the iMac.

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • If necessary, remove the piece of kapton tape wrapped around the microphone and camera cables.

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Disconnect both the camera and microphone cables.

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Edit Step 10 Display  ¶ 

  • Peel back the aluminum EMI shield up off the lower three edges of the rear case.

  • It is not necessary to peel the EMI shield off the display.

  • We found it helpful to tape the EMI shield up against the display to keep it out of the way.

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 5 mm T6 Torx screws securing the display data cable to the logic board.

  • Using its attached black tab, pull the display data cable connector up off the logic board.

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Pull the inverter cable connector up off its socket on the logic board.

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Peel back the aluminum EMI tape from the two vertical edges of the display.

  • During reassembly, it is helpful to use several small strips of tape to hold the EMI shielding along the left and right edges of the display footprint out of the way before lowering the display into the rear case of your iMac.

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Remove the four recessed coarse-thread 7.5 mm T10 Torx screws securing the display to the rear case.

  • These screws are recessed, so a thin screwdriver such as this is essential for removal. Bit drivers tend to be too short for this application.

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Lift the display from its lower edge and pull it toward yourself to peel it off the EMI shield attached to its top edge.

  • Be mindful of any cables that may get caught during removal.

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Edit Step 16 Hard Drive  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the hard drive thermal sensor by pulling the connector away from its socket parallel to the face of the hard drive.

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Pressing the top of the hard drive bracket down to release it from the rear case requires a substantial amount of force, so we recommend laying your iMac stand-side down on a table to avoid knocking it over.

  • Press the hard drive bracket down toward the bottom edge of your iMac to free it from the rear case, then rotate the top of the drive toward yourself.

  • Lift the hard drive off its lower pins and pull it out of the rear case, minding the cables that are still attached.

  • When reinstalling the hard drive, be careful not to push the rubber grommets through the chassis with the hard drive pins as retrieving them may require logic board removal.

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the SATA power connector and the hard drive.

  • Twist the spudger to separate the SATA power connector from the hard drive.

  • Pull the SATA power connector away from the hard drive.

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Pull the SATA data cable away from the hard drive.

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Edit Step 20 Hard Drive  ¶ 

  • Remove the two T8 Torx screws securing the upper bracket to the hard drive.

  • Transfer the bracket and screws to your new hard drive.

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Remove the two T8 Torx pins on the connector side of the hard drive and transfer them to your new hard drive.

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the hard drive thermal sensor off the hard drive.

  • Don't forget to transfer this to your new drive.

  • If you are installing a new hard drive, we have an OS X install guide to get you up and running.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iMac G5 17" Model A1144 device page.

Required Tools

TR8 Torx Security Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$9.95 · 29 In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

I disconnected the hard drive bracket and slid it to one side and removed it, then removed the hard drive (squeezing it out just wasn't working for me).

tina, · Reply

Using a strongish magnet will grab and release the latches.

darkstar448, · Reply

Would the hard drive not get damaged from doing that? Magnets hear hard drives is bad news, so be VERY careful doing that

Nick,

Quote from darkstar448:

Using a strongish magnet will grab and release the latches.

Are you sure it's safe to do this? How close is the hard drive, won't magnets interfere with it?

Sarah, · Reply

No problem taking those screws off, HUGE problem trying to put them back in. Reassembling this step is a lot more complicated. Those 4 screws are impossible to reinstall if you don't have a magnetized screwdriver, which I don't.

javier, · Reply

Quote from javier:

No problem taking those screws off, HUGE problem trying to put them back in. Reassembling this step is a lot more complicated. Those 4 screws are impossible to reinstall if you don't have a magnetized screwdriver, which I don't.

Since I could not get a hold on a nice magnetized T10, I inverted the whole unit and worked upside down to avoid lost screws inside an iMac.

javier, · Reply

Quote from javier:

Since I could not get a hold on a nice magnetized T10, I inverted the whole unit and worked upside down to avoid lost screws inside an iMac.

Great, now my problem is to find a new cable that connects the panel to LB.

I'm from Italy and nobody has got it .

Please help me

Thanks for all

Carlo

Lars, · Reply

I found a group of wires not mentioned on the instructions along the underside of the display at the right. They were connected to something at the right bottom of the display near the white plastic piece. I am unable to raise the display more than a couple of inches at this side of it and am wondering what do do.

modorange, · Reply

The group of wires on the right side of the display is the inverter. Seems like a few steps were omitted, so I'll try to fill in the gaps. Use the T10 to remove the right speaker. It's the big white plastic squarish thing on the bottom right side of the iMac. It pulls stright up and you can either disconnect it or just leave it hanging. This should release the inverter cable from hanging up the right side of the display (it did for me, even disconnecting the inverter didn't help as the cable was under the speaker, the inverter doesn't need to be disconnected but it might be helpful to disentangle things and it's an easy one to take apart). The other step missing is to remove the perforated tape at the top of the LCD from the LCD, otherwise you can't really remove it. I found a spudger helpful for this task.

I know it's a couple years since the OP posted, but hope this helps someone.

Cheers

Jeff Kamis

maccentric,

I've found that 'coating' the tip of the screwdriver with glue from a glue-stick will help to keep the screws from coming off of a non-magnetized driver.

Henry in StL, · Reply

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