iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz DC-In Board Replacement

  • Author: iRobot
  • Difficulty: Moderate

Tripped over your power cord? At least you don't have to replace the entire logic board.

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Edit Step 1 Battery  ¶ 

  • Use a coin to rotate the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Lift the battery out of the computer.

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Edit Step 3 Lower Case  ¶ 

  • Use a pin (or anything you like) to remove the three rubber feet from the lower case.

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Remove the three newly-revealed Phillips screws.

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to pry up the three metal rings that housed the rubber bumpers.

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Remove the three hex screws using a T8 Torx screwdriver (or Allen screws using an Allen key if these are used).

  • The shorter screw is in the center of the computer.

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Remove the two Phillips screws on either side of the battery contacts.

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Breathe deeply. Trying times are ahead, but we promise the lower case does come off.

  • Push the thin rims of the lower case surrounding the battery compartment in, bending them past the tabs, and then lift up to free that corner of the lower case.

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • There is a slot on the wall of the battery compartment that locks the lower case in place. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry out the slot's lower rim and pull up on the lower case to free the slot from the tabs holding it.

  • Be careful not to break this clip!

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Run a spudger along the seam between the lower case and upper case on the front of the computer to free the tabs locking the lower case. Pull up on the lower case and continue to use the spudger as necessary until you hear three distinct clicks.

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Continue to run the spudger around the front, right corner. There are two tabs on the port side of the computer, one near the front corner and one near the sound-out port.

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • There are three tabs over the optical drive that must be released before the lower case can come off. Slide the spudger into the lower case above the optical drive and run it toward the back of the computer until you hear three distinct clicks.

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Once the front and sides of the lower case are free, turn the computer so that the back is facing you and pull the lower case up and toward you until the back tabs pop free (it may be helpful to jiggle the case up and down).

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Remove the small greasy springs with white plastic caps from either side of the battery contacts.

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Edit Step 15 Bottom Shield  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 10 screws from the bottom shield:

    • Six 3 mm Phillips

    • Three 7.5 mm Phillips

    • One 14 mm Phillips

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Lift the bottom shield off.

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Edit Step 17 DC-In Board  ¶ 

  • Remove the single Phillips screw securing the DC-In board.

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the DC-In cable from the logic board.

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Deroute the cable from around the optical drive, removing tape as necessary, and angle the DC-In board out of its compartment.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iBook G4 14" 933 MHz-1.33 GHz device page.

Required Tools

TR8 Torx Security Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Flathead 3/32" or 2.5 mm Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Coin

$2.95 · 1 In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

Why use a T8 Torx when these screws are metric hex 2? The T8 didn't work at all. Other than that this was a very easy repair. It cost $29 instead of the $150 that I paid the last time a Mac shop made the same repair.

dalekaty, · Reply

Quote from dalekaty:

Why use a T8 Torx when these screws are metric hex 2? The T8 didn't work at all. Other than that this was a very easy repair. It cost $29 instead of the $150 that I paid the last time a Mac shop made the same repair.

Had the same issue with a T8, although I blamed that on my T8 being quite stripped. Finding an appropriate bit was quite a challenge... but I'm pretty certain a T8 isn't correct. The screws have a hex head, not a Torx... maybe T8 is the closest thing that tends to fit...

Matt Falcon, · Reply

The screw on the left wasnt able to get tight for some reason

Helena, · Reply

Not Torx, but allen key (British wrench), 2mm

alicelittle, · Reply

I printed these instructions out, and this one was at the top of page 2. I found the first paragraph amusing enough that I had to show my boss.

Kristoffer Bisher, · Reply

For me, this was really the toughest part! Trying to find/get a good grip on the iBook and really *forcing* that spudger around. All without scratching the display.

bccreative, · Reply

Once you loosen the the front the seam is very tight. I was able to slide the spudger in the middle of the port side instead of starting at the corner.

Robert Oliver, · Reply

This was the scariest part for me. I had to wiggle it a lot as it seemed to be stuck. But it did come loose.

Robert Oliver, · Reply

My 1 GHz iBook G4 only had the two 7.5 mm Phillips on the right and the two 3 mm Phillips above the battery compartment.

geekspeak, · Reply

The front of the foil cover has a lip divided into four separate tabs. Use a blade to loosen each as they can be easily bent.

geekspeak, · Reply

My dc board had 2 screws. for some reason when i tried to screw them both back in only one got tight. the other one just kept twirling so i left it out. i didnt want to have a loose screw rattling around in my computer.

also had trouble laying down the wire to the dc board. it wouldnt lay flat but i was able to get it flat enough. overall it worked and the computer is now up and running!

thank you! it was pretty easy

Helena, · Reply

This is the first screw of the many on this part of the tear down that really needs the Phillips #00 screwdriver.

turtlejp, · Reply

At this point alternate hard drive can be connected to logic board for testing. Alternate hard drive and drive cable req'd. Remove hard drive cable from logic board. Plug in alternate cable and drive.

A81Sturmer, · Reply

My 1 GHz DC board had two Phillips, one on the far left and one next to the Z10B label.

geekspeak, · Reply

My entire black woven cable cover was stuck down pretty well w/ 2x stick tape.

bccreative, · Reply

On this iBook, the DC board had a small Phillips screw on it.

adamprall, · Reply

Woops - never mind - neglected the screw from previous step.

adamprall, · Reply

Went pretty smoothly as described. I used an egg crate marked for each step where screws were removed to keep them all sorted out (OCD vs. old age). Only other tip was that in step #5 the rings and screws at the corners of the back seemed to be integrated and came out together, the rubber feet came up by pulling from the side - didn't really require a thumb tack. Otherwise, having the right tools (described) made it a snap.

drscole, · Reply

Quote from drscole:

Went pretty smoothly as described. I used an egg crate marked for each step where screws were removed to keep them all sorted out (OCD vs. old age). Only other tip was that in step #5 the rings and screws at the corners of the back seemed to be integrated and came out together, the rubber feet came up by pulling from the side - didn't really require a thumb tack. Otherwise, having the right tools (described) made it a snap.

I agree - having the right tools is the key to this going smoothly. It would have useful to have more detail around where the long and short screws go on the heat shield. This is minor niggle and overall good instructions.

jlwatts1, · Reply

Oops! I hit the wrong button. I did not mean to "Flag as inappropriate".

geekspeak, · Reply

Quote from drscole:

Went pretty smoothly as described. I used an egg crate marked for each step where screws were removed to keep them all sorted out (OCD vs. old age). Only other tip was that in step #5 the rings and screws at the corners of the back seemed to be integrated and came out together, the rubber feet came up by pulling from the side - didn't really require a thumb tack. Otherwise, having the right tools (described) made it a snap.

The egg crate is a good idea. I use a piece of cardboard and I label each step and layout the screws visually as I pulled them out.

geekspeak, · Reply

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