Use a coin to rotate the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.

Lift the battery out of the computer.

Pull the keyboard release tabs (shown in yellow) toward you and lift up on the keyboard until it pops free.

If the keyboard does not come free, use a small flathead screwdriver to turn the keyboard locking screw (shown in orange) 180 degrees in either direction and try again.

Flip the keyboard over, away from the screen, and rest it face-down on the trackpad area.

Loosen the four silver Phillips screws that secure the RAM shield.

These screws will not come out all the way. The screws are held captive to the RAM shield to prevent them from getting lost.

Remove the RAM shield from the computer.

The four captive screws will come out with the RAM shield.

Pull the keyboard cable up from the logic board, holding the cable as close to the connector as possible.

When reassembling your iBook, make sure that you reconnect the keyboard cable before replacing the RAM shield.

Close the display and flip the computer over.

Remove the three hex screws using a T8 Torx screwdriver.

The shorter screw is in the center.

Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to remove the three rubber feet from the lower case.

Remove the three newly-revealed Phillips screws.

One screw is underneath each bumper (three total).

Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to pry up the three metal rings that housed the rubber bumpers.

Remove the two Phillips screws on either side of the battery contacts.

Breathe deeply. Trying times are ahead, but we promise the lower case does come off.

Push in the thin rims of the lower case surrounding the battery compartment, bending them past the tabs, and then lift up to free that corner of the lower case.

There is a slot on the wall of the battery compartment that locks the lower case in place. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry out the slot's lower rim and pull up on the lower case to free the slot from the tabs holding it.

Run a spudger along the seam between the lower case and upper case on the front of the computer to free the tabs locking the lower case. Pull up on the lower case and continue to use the spudger as necessary until you hear three distinct clicks.

Continue to run the spudger around the front, right corner. There are two tabs on the port side of the computer, one near the front corner and one near the sound-out port.

There are three tabs over the optical drive that must be released before the lower case can come off. Slide the spudger into the lower case above the optical drive and run it toward the back of the computer until you hear three distinct clicks.

The front and sides of the lower case are now free.

Turn the computer so that the back is facing you and pull the lower case up and toward you until the back tabs pop free.

It may be helpful to jiggle the case up and down.

Remove the small greasy springs with white plastic caps from either side of the battery contacts.

Remove the following 10 screws from the bottom shield:

• Six 3 mm Phillips
• Three 7.5 mm Phillips
• One 14 mm Phillips

Lift the bottom shield off.

Remove the single Phillips screw securing the DC-In board.

Angle the DC-In board out of its compartment.

You may need to remove tape that secures the DC-In board cable to the case.

Lift the DC-In cable from the adhesive attaching it to the logic board.

Disconnect the DC-In cable from the logic board.

Wiggling the connector parallel to the surface of the logic board while applying slight tension may aid in removal.

Remove the following 11 screws from the bottom of the computer:

• Three 3 mm Phillips around the battery compartment.
• Three 4.5 mm Phillips along the optical drive bezel. (a magnetic screwdriver may help to lift these screws out)
• One 12 mm Phillips in the lower right corner.
• Four 14.5 mm Phillips.

We recommend placing the computer on a soft cloth from this point on to prevent damaging the logic board.

Turn over the computer and open it.

Remove the 3 Phillips screws from the edges of the keyboard area.

The shorter screw goes in the lower left corner. The left corner is indicated by a blue "L" in the photograph and is on the right side.

Be especially careful while disconnecting the cables in the forthcoming steps. Never pull directly on the cables, but use a spudger to pry up the connector directly from its socket.

Lift the upper case and use a spudger or your finger to disconnect the trackpad connector hidden beneath the white plastic tab.

Be careful while lifting the upper case, as its tabs are still hanging on the metal frame.

The sockets attached to the motherboards of most iBooks are very weak and easily broken. Use extreme caution when pulling connectors out of their sockets.

Lift the upper case enough to disconnect the blue and white power cable from the logic board. Using your fingernails, carefully pry the connector from its socket.

Carefully disconnect the multicolored speaker cable from the logic board in the same fashion.

Remove the following 16 screws:

• Thirteen 3 mm Phillips.
• One 3 mm Phillips.
• Two 4 mm Phillips.

During reassembly, be sure to fit the screw near the left hinge through the loop in the display data cable, securing the cable to the upper case.

Lift the top shield up from the right side, minding the upper left corner which may catch on the metal framework.

Remove the four Phillips screws securing the hard drive to the metal framework.

Remove the following three 3 mm Phillips screws from the metal AirPort card retaining bracket.

Lift the metal AirPort card retaining bracket up and out of the computer.

Lift the free end of the hard drive up, enough for the brackets to clear the metal frame. Pull the hard drive out of its connector.

Remove the hard drive brackets from the left and right sides of the hard drive.

Remove the two black T8 Torx screws from either side of the hard drive (four screws total).

Disconnect the hard drive connector from the hard drive.

This is a bit tricky. Try rocking the connector gently from side to side while applying even pressure. If you bend the pins, do your best to straighten them, using the hard drive cable as a guide.

If you are installing a new hard drive, we have an OS X install guide to get you up and running.