iBook G4 14" 1.42 GHz Hard Drive Replacement

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

You can install hard drives up to 9.5mm thick.

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Edit Step 1 Battery  ¶ 

  • Use a coin to rotate the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.

  • Lift the battery out of the computer.

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Edit Step 2 Keyboard  ¶ 

  • Pull the keyboard release tabs (shown in yellow) toward you and lift up on the keyboard until it pops free.

  • If the keyboard does not come free, use a small flathead screwdriver to turn the keyboard locking screw (shown in orange) 180 degrees in either direction and try again.

  • Flip the keyboard over, away from the screen, and rest it face-down on the trackpad area.

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Loosen the four silver Phillips screws that secure the RAM shield.

  • These screws will not come out all the way. The screws are held captive to the RAM shield to prevent them from getting lost.

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Remove the RAM shield from the computer.

  • The four captive screws will come out with the RAM shield.

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Pull the keyboard cable up from the logic board, holding the cable as close to the connector as possible.

  • When reassembling your iBook, make sure that you reconnect the keyboard cable before replacing the RAM shield.

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Edit Step 6 Lower Case  ¶ 

  • Close the display and flip the computer over.

  • Remove the three hex screws using a T8 Torx screwdriver.

  • The shorter screw is in the center.

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to remove the three rubber feet from the lower case.

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Remove the three newly-revealed Phillips screws.

  • One screw is underneath each bumper (three total).

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to pry up the three metal rings that housed the rubber bumpers.

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Remove the two Phillips screws on either side of the battery contacts.

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Breathe deeply. Trying times are ahead, but we promise the lower case does come off.

  • Push in the thin rims of the lower case surrounding the battery compartment, bending them past the tabs, and then lift up to free that corner of the lower case.

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • There is a slot on the wall of the battery compartment that locks the lower case in place. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry out the slot's lower rim and pull up on the lower case to free the slot from the tabs holding it.

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Run a spudger along the seam between the lower case and upper case on the front of the computer to free the tabs locking the lower case. Pull up on the lower case and continue to use the spudger as necessary until you hear three distinct clicks.

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Continue to run the spudger around the front, right corner. There are two tabs on the port side of the computer, one near the front corner and one near the sound-out port.

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • There are three tabs over the optical drive that must be released before the lower case can come off. Slide the spudger into the lower case above the optical drive and run it toward the back of the computer until you hear three distinct clicks.

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • The front and sides of the lower case are now free.

  • Turn the computer so that the back is facing you and pull the lower case up and toward you until the back tabs pop free.

  • It may be helpful to jiggle the case up and down.

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Remove the small greasy springs with white plastic caps from either side of the battery contacts.

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Edit Step 18 Bottom Shield  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 10 screws from the bottom shield:

    • Six 3 mm Phillips

    • Three 7.5 mm Phillips

    • One 14 mm Phillips

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Lift the bottom shield off.

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Edit Step 20 DC-In Board  ¶ 

  • Remove the single Phillips screw securing the DC-In board.

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Angle the DC-In board out of its compartment.

  • You may need to remove tape that secures the DC-In board cable to the case.

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Lift the DC-In cable from the adhesive attaching it to the logic board.

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Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the DC-In cable from the logic board.

  • Wiggling the connector parallel to the surface of the logic board while applying slight tension may aid in removal.

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Edit Step 24 Upper Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 11 screws from the bottom of the computer:

    • Three 3 mm Phillips around the battery compartment.

    • Three 4.5 mm Phillips along the optical drive bezel. (a magnetic screwdriver may help to lift these screws out)

    • One 12 mm Phillips in the lower right corner.

    • Four 14.5 mm Phillips.

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Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • We recommend placing the computer on a soft cloth from this point on to prevent damaging the logic board.

  • Turn over the computer and open it.

  • Remove the 3 Phillips screws from the edges of the keyboard area.

  • The shorter screw goes in the lower left corner. The left corner is indicated by a blue "L" in the photograph and is on the right side.

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Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Be especially careful while disconnecting the cables in the forthcoming steps. Never pull directly on the cables, but use a spudger to pry up the connector directly from its socket.

  • Lift the upper case and use a spudger or your finger to disconnect the trackpad connector hidden beneath the white plastic tab.

  • Be careful while lifting the upper case, as its tabs are still hanging on the metal frame.

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Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • The sockets attached to the motherboards of most iBooks are very weak and easily broken. Use extreme caution when pulling connectors out of their sockets.

  • Lift the upper case enough to disconnect the blue and white power cable from the logic board. Using your fingernails, carefully pry the connector from its socket.

  • Carefully disconnect the multicolored speaker cable from the logic board in the same fashion.

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Edit Step 28 Top Shield  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 16 screws:

    • Thirteen 3 mm Phillips.

    • One 3 mm Phillips.

    • Two 4 mm Phillips.

  • During reassembly, be sure to fit the screw near the left hinge through the loop in the display data cable, securing the cable to the upper case.

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Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • Lift the top shield up from the right side, minding the upper left corner which may catch on the metal framework.

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Edit Step 30 Hard Drive  ¶ 

  • Remove the four Phillips screws securing the hard drive to the metal framework.

  • Remove the following three 3 mm Phillips screws from the metal AirPort card retaining bracket.

  • Lift the metal AirPort card retaining bracket up and out of the computer.

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Edit Step 31  ¶ 

  • Lift the free end of the hard drive up, enough for the brackets to clear the metal frame. Pull the hard drive out of its connector.

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Edit Step 32 Hard Drive  ¶ 

  • Remove the hard drive brackets from the left and right sides of the hard drive.

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Edit Step 33  ¶ 

  • Remove the two black T8 Torx screws from either side of the hard drive (four screws total).

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Edit Step 34  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the hard drive connector from the hard drive.

  • This is a bit tricky. Try rocking the connector gently from side to side while applying even pressure. If you bend the pins, do your best to straighten them, using the hard drive cable as a guide.

  • If you are installing a new hard drive, we have an OS X install guide to get you up and running.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iBook G4 14" 1.42 GHz device page.

Required Tools

TR8 Torx Security Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Flathead 3/32" or 2.5 mm Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Coin

$2.95 · 1 In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

Actually, I found a Phillips 0 (PH0) a better option on all the smallest screws than a PH00. That was at least my experience.

Paulix, · Reply

My iBook G4 had some differences… there was a bracket retaining the HDD, screw placements weren't quite the same, the 'L' screw in Step 25 is actually a larger headed screw. Success achieved. Dead drive removed for destruction.

Monica I, · Reply

Thank you community "iFixit". I just replaced the HD in an iBook G4 14 "with the help of the guide Walter Galan.

Great photos and precise instructions step by step.

Vitor

Vitor, · Reply

Oop's sorry on my earlier note I meant to say in step 2

Keith, · Reply

In my iBook G4 (Fr), there's no T8 Torx but nut driver.

boninj, · Reply

This part scared me, never in an iFixIt guide have I seen a warning like "trying times are ahead".

I used a plastic iPod opening tool and ran it around the seam in the same order pictured. I had the plastic off in less than a minute with almost no fuss.

PohTayToez, · Reply

I found it easier and "safer" to use a spudge at the back as well (two on each side of the hinge)

Paulix, · Reply

Quote from Paulix:

I found it easier and "safer" to use a spudge at the back as well (two on each side of the hinge)

I did too. Thanks, Paulix.

Ryan Cabanas, · Reply

You might not need to remove the entire DC-In board and cable. This is removed because the DC-In jack blocks the upper case from being lifted off. I just removed the screw and pushed the board slightly in when removing the upper case to provide clearance. You may want to tape the board loosely in place when the screw is out to prevent it from falling out.

georgie333, · Reply

You need to undo the adhesive halfway down the cable, so you can lift the DC board to angle it out correctly. beefybov

beefybov, · Reply

Quote from beefybov:

You need to undo the adhesive halfway down the cable, so you can lift the DC board to angle it out correctly. beefybov

Good call, beefybov.

Ryan Cabanas, · Reply

On my model, both left-side screws are short and the (lower) right screw is the long one.

axel, · Reply

Sorry, this note should be for Step 25!

axel, · Reply

A soft cloth like the one you use to clean your screen with. Not a towel because of the static that might be built up in heavier fabrics.

2myownbeat, · Reply

The picture has the lower *right* screw marked as "L" -- but that's a mistake; the short screw is, as described, on the lower LEFT side.

Peter King, · Reply

On my computer, the screw in lower right marked "L" (long?) in the picture is M3x6mm and the other two are M3x3mm.

donestabrook, · Reply

Long screw goes into the right bottom corner - and the 3 mm on the left - at least at the computer I did.

zhp, · Reply

on my model, the upper yellow screw and the orange screw were 3mm as well (red colour). So only the one right yellow screw was 4 mm.

Paulix, · Reply

On my computer there is only one 4mm screw. The leftmost bottom right. The others are 3 mm. It is actually written on the shield: M2X3 = 3 mm. M2X4 = 4 mm.

Paulix, · Reply

The little tabs on the shield that are intended to contact the metal on the ports and the optical drive had been flattened out on my iBook and were no longer in contact. I didn't notice this until I had installed the shield. Make sure the tabs are bent down a bit as to contact the ports and optical drive. This system looks like it replaced the foil tape on earlier models. Just my own observation.

randy3833, · Reply

iFixit,

Thank you for this helpfull guide.

It took me exactly 70 min. to swap the harddisk, this including a cup of coffee and a smoke between disassembly/assembly.

Thumbs up!

Patrick van Helden, · Reply

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