iBook G3 12" Display Replacement

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

  • Author: iRobot
  • Difficulty: Difficult

Change out the entire display assembly, including the inverter, Airport antenna, hinges and plastic casing.

Sections
Files
Tools
Image #1

Edit Step 1 Battery  ¶ 

  • Use a coin to rotate the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.

  • Lift the battery out of the computer.

Image #1

Edit Step 2 Keyboard  ¶ 

  • Pull the keyboard release tabs toward you and lift up on the keyboard until it pops free.

  • If the keyboard does not come free, use a small flathead screwdriver to turn the keyboard locking screw 180 degrees in either direction and try again.

  • Flip the keyboard over, away from the screen, and rest it face-down on the trackpad area.

Image #1

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • If the computer does not have an Airport card installed, skip the next two steps.

  • Push the wire clasp toward the Airport card and pull it up to free it from the RAM shield.

Image #1

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Grasp the clear plastic tab on the Airport card and pull toward the right.

Image #1

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Hold the Airport card in one hand and use your other hand to remove the antenna cable.

Image #1

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 2.5 mm Phillips screws that secure the RAM shield.

Image #1

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Grasp the metal bracket on top of the RAM shield and pull upward to remove the shield.

Image #1

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Pull the keyboard cable up from the logic board, holding the cable as close to the connector as possible.

Image #1

Edit Step 9 Lower Case  ¶ 

  • Your laptop should look approximately like this.

Image #1

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Use a pin (or anything you like) to remove the three rubber feet from the lower case.

Image #1

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Remove the three 5.2 mm newly-revealed Phillips screws.

Image #1

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to pry up the three metal rings that housed the rubber bumpers.

Image #1

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Remove the one 10 mm and two 20 mm hex screws using a 2mm hex. Alternatively, a T8 Torx screwdriver key will do.

Image #1

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 4.2 mm Phillips screws on either side of the battery contacts.

Image #1

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Breathe deeply. Trying times are ahead, but we promise the lower case does come off.

  • Push the thin rims of the lower case surrounding the battery compartment in, bending them past the tabs, and then lift up to free that corner of the lower case.

Image #1

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • There is a slot on the wall of the battery compartment that locks the lower case in place. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry out the slot's lower rim and pull up on the lower case to free the slot from the tabs holding it.

Image #1

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Run a spudger along the seam between the lower case and upper case on the front of the computer to free the tabs locking the lower case. Pull up on the lower case and continue to use the spudger as necessary until you hear three distinct clicks.

Image #1

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Continue to run the spudger around the front, right corner. There are two tabs on the port side of the computer, one near the front corner and one near the sound out port.

Image #1

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Once the front and sides of the lower case are free, turn the computer so that the back is facing you and pull the lower case up and toward you until the back tabs pop free (it may be helpful to jiggle the case up and down).

Image #1

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Remove the small greasy springs with white plastic caps from either side of the battery contacts.

Image #1

Edit Step 21 Upper Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 4 screws on the bottom of the computer:

    • Two 3 mm Phillips from the left side of the computer.

    • One 4.5 mm Phillips near the latch mechanism (this screw may be missing in 800 MHz iBooks)

    • One 14.2 mm Phillips near the front, right corner.

Image #1

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Use a straightened paperclip to open the optical drive tray.

Image #1

Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Pull the optical drive out just enough so that you can access and remove a Phillips screw near the battery compartment.

Image #1

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Pull the optical drive a bit more so that you can access and remove a second Phillips screw near the power receptacle.

Image #1

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Turn over the computer and open it.

  • Use tweezers (or a refrigerator magnet) to remove the magnet covering a Phillips screw near the middle of the computer.

Image #1

Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 4 screws on the edges of the keyboard area.

    • One 4.5 mm Phillips underneath where the magnet was.

    • Three 6 mm Phillips in plastic depressions.

Image #1

Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • Peel up the foil tape covering the speaker cable near the ports.

Image #1

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • This is a diagram of the trackpad ribbon clamp connector you will disconnect in the next step.

  • 1) With your fingernails, grasp the locking bar on either side and pull up a small amount (about 1/16" or 2 mm).

  • 2) After disengaging the locking bar, slide the cable out of the connector.

Image #1

Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • Loosen the trackpad connector by pulling the top piece up slightly, freeing the trackpad ribbon.

  • Slide the orange trackpad ribbon out of the connector.

Image #1

Edit Step 30  ¶ 

  • Before you can jerk the upper case off with joy, you must disconnect both the blue and white power cable and red and black speaker cable as described in the next steps.

  • Lift the upper case from the left side and use your other hand to pull out the right side in order to clear the power receptacle.

  • There may be a thin metal bar fastened to the upper case by the two screws on either side of the optical drive. This bar provides rigidity around the optical drive; don't forget it when reassembling.

Image #1

Edit Step 31  ¶ 

  • The connectors at the ends of the cables are attached very firmly to the sockets on the logic board. Pulling directly on the cable will either separate the cable from its connector or the socket from the logic board.

  • Lift the upper case enough to disconnect the blue and white power cable from the logic board. Using your fingernails or a dental pick, carefully pry the connector from its socket. Make sure you're pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.

Image #1

Edit Step 32  ¶ 

  • Lift the upper case off completely and disconnect the red and black speaker cable from the logic board. As before, make sure you're pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.

Image #1

Edit Step 33  ¶ 

  • There is a magnet that allows the computer to detect when the laptop is closed. If this magnet is not present your computer will not automatically go to sleep. Be sure the magnet is in the position indicated.

Image #1

Edit Step 34 Top Shield  ¶ 

  • Your laptop should look approximately like this.

Image #1

Edit Step 35  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 14 screws (some models may be missing a couple of screws):

    • One 2.5 mm Phillips.

    • Six 3.5 mm Phillips.

    • One 4.5 mm Phillips near the sleep light with a small shaft.

    • Two 4.5 mm Phillips with larger shafts.

    • Four 5 mm Phillips

    • If a screw is inserted in the left hole, the 14.2 mm screw in step 24 can not be inserted to hold the top case down.

Image #1

Edit Step 36  ¶ 

  • Peel back three strips of yellow tape in the bottom left corner.

  • Peel back one strip of foil tape in the upper left corner and another near where the trackpad connects to the logic board.

Image #1

Edit Step 37  ¶ 

  • Lift the top shield up from the right side, minding the upper left corner, which may catch on the metal framework.

Image #1

Edit Step 38 Display  ¶ 

  • Your laptop should look approximately like this.

Image #1

Edit Step 39  ¶ 

  • If you have already removed the hard drive in a previous step, your iBook may differ slightly from the picture.

  • Disconnect the microphone cable from the front, left corner of the logic board.

  • Peel back the black tape and free the microphone cable from the hard drive.

Image #1

Edit Step 40  ¶ 

  • Use the black plastic handle to disconnect the display data cable from the logic board.

Image #1

Edit Step 41  ¶ 

  • If you have already removed the modem in a previous step, you can skip this step.

  • Remove the single Phillips securing the display data cable to the metal framework.

Image #1

Edit Step 42  ¶ 

  • Deroute the display data and microphone cables.

Image #1

Edit Step 43  ¶ 

  • Peel back the yellow tape securing the inverter cable to the optical drive.

Image #1

Edit Step 44  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the inverter cable from the logic board.

Image #1

Edit Step 45  ¶ 

  • Carefully deroute the inverter cable from beneath the optical drive.

  • Deroute the Airport antenna cable from beneath the optical drive.

Image #1

Edit Step 46  ¶ 

  • Support the display with your free hand while removing the following screws.

  • Remove the single Phillips screw on the outer edge of either hinge (two screws total).

  • Tilt the display back to get over two small nubbins, and then slide it directly from the case and away.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iBook G3 12" device page.

Required Tools

TR8 Torx Security Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Flathead 3/32" or 2.5 mm Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Coin

$2.95 · 1 In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

Note: The cable may have adhesive holding it to a shield. Pull in an upward direction gently, with an evenly distributed force across the cable until it comes loose from the shield.

gsp, · Reply

Screw sizes are 2.5mm x 6mm flat low profile head or cheese head.

XnriquX, · Reply

FYI, the two screws at the top of this picture are longer than the one in the middle of the case. Don't mix them up!

JuciusMaximus, · Reply

Top screws are 20 mm, middle one is 10 mm. These have thread lock.

commenter, · Reply

The 3 long screws (not the ones under the rubber feet) are 2.5mm x 20mm metric. Head style is cheese head. i found replacements for these at ACE hardware, for about $0.08 each in a flat head drive style which IMO are better than the hex style that can easily be stripped.

XnriquX, · Reply

If your iBook's been opened many times (Like mine has been) then this piece may be broken.

If it's cracked down the middle or a little off, what you'll want to do is use your bent paperclip from a few steps later (or another screwdriver) and pull the second piece away from the shell when you start lifting. should pull right out

Christian Wacker, · Reply

You might wanna use your spudger to pry up those back tabs to. You might break the bottom case just wiggling around waiting for it to pop loose.

neato, · Reply

The orange screw on my machine has no head on it and is simply a flat surface. There is no way to remove it and consequently I completely trashed my unit attempting to remove the top cover.

There went a few bucks all for nothing as I had a spare HD sitting here ready to put in!

Calum, · Reply

Be aware that you may need to use a spudger at the front of the computer to separate the metal shield from the bottom case.

michael leahy, · Reply

This photo is a little confusing. The shield should be off, which would show the correct positions of the yellow and orange screws. (The orange circle is in the wrong place.) Furthermore, these screws don't need to be removed at this stage (they hold the logic board to the frame). And finally, on my 800 MHz machine, BOTH these screws are 6 mm in length.

commenter, · Reply

Quote from commenter:

This photo is a little confusing. The shield should be off, which would show the correct positions of the yellow and orange screws. (The orange circle is in the wrong place.) Furthermore, these screws don't need to be removed at this stage (they hold the logic board to the frame). And finally, on my 800 MHz machine, BOTH these screws are 6 mm in length.

The two red screws and the orange screw have to be removed (iBook G3 600 MHz).

florguh, · Reply

Quote from Rolf Hug:

The two red screws and the orange screw have to be removed (iBook G3 600 MHz).

As well the yellow screw has to be removed according to description

florguh, · Reply

this is the most difficult part in the whole repair

karel b, · Reply

i think that we can leave that one out on re-assembly

Chris Green, · Reply

It's quite hard to get to the screw and loosen it.

florguh, · Reply

If you fully extend the tray it's fairly easy to get to the screw by going inside the rails. And grab it with tweezers.

Ty Leavitt, · Reply

When re-installing use something sticky on your screwdriver to hold the screw in place, or it's never going in. The sleep magnet is nasty at grabbing your screw and pulling it away. (Doesn't hurt to have something sticky on it for taking it out too...)

Christian Wacker, · Reply

There is no way to go in STRAIGHT without risking to damage the tray! The screw head is just too far off to the left and is covered by the tray. So I opened completely the tray and I could barely remove it from inside the try guide.

taf, · Reply

Hey Steve; My advice would be to NEVER replace a tray drive with a slot drive! In my-not-very-humble opinion, slot drives are garbage, and are unfit to be used in ANY Mac computer.

dentoni, · Reply

This one is tiniest (shortist) so far

Rufleyboy, · Reply

Be sure when installing a slot drive to replace these screws before installing the drive!!

steve, · Reply

the three 6mm screws may require more torque than previous screws.

tir38, · Reply

tweezers work better than fingernails for this step.

tir38, · Reply

blue up and white down

edosso, · Reply

Not unless you have to! Most parts can be removed with this left in. Don't try pulling on it unless you have to, it can easily break the logic board. Just tilt the upper case up to lean it on the display.

QEII Student IT, · Reply

Much easier if you do this after Step 37.

Benn Snyder, · Reply

when putting back the connectors I bent the bloody pins, do it when you are relaxed............

bgfra, · Reply

Quote from bgfra:

when putting back the connectors I bent the bloody pins, do it when you are relaxed............

Can easily repair them using a watch repair magnifier (3 euros)

bgfra, · Reply

It is alot easier to get at after you pull the speaker cable out. Use something small to pop it out of place though, I broke my extra spare being a little too hasty.

Christian Wacker, · Reply

This connector has a small catch on the right. slipping a sharp object (eg: pin) between the connector and it holder will release the catch. The connector should now come off easily.

Lawrence Lau, · Reply

There is a magnet covering a screw to the left of the serial number located in the upper center of the upper case. Remove the magnet, smooth,round and small, and loosen (doesn't need to come out) the screw to remove the upper case. Proceed to disconnecting the speaker and power cables. NOTE: this magnet is not the same one indicated in step image 33.

Marsha, · Reply

The DC board can be removed now. Disconnect the cable from the DC board. There is enough play to lift the board out. There is no need to remove the top shield.

tyler, · Reply

I found that at this point I was able to avoid any further steps by removing the screw from the DC in board and the flip the machine over to reveal its connection to the board. I removed this connection and then was able to wiggle the board out and snake the cord out. Avoiding Step 38 saves a lot of screw removal. Not to mention not having to remove the CD Drive also saves a lot of time.

Just be careful when doing this that you do not force the board out of its place. There is room to remove it, but it is a gentle task.

scottgriz, · Reply

If your iBook is like mine (700MHz) The yellow screw was attached from the bottom through the bottom case and had to be removed earlier in order to remove the bottom case. Also the the green screw pictured to the left was missing already removed.

neato, · Reply

Quote from neato:

If your iBook is like mine (700MHz) The yellow screw was attached from the bottom through the bottom case and had to be removed earlier in order to remove the bottom case. Also the the green screw pictured to the left was missing already removed.

It's the same to iBook G3 600 MHz

florguh, · Reply

The foil tape next to the trackpad connector is not marked in the pic

Rufleyboy, · Reply

ended up leaving the display cable routed, had a piece of steel framing i could not get it around without the risk of tearing the cable.

Flynn Stewart, · Reply

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