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Installing iBook G4 12" 800 MHz-1.2 GHz Logic Board
- Author: iRobot
- Difficulty: Difficult
The motherboard includes all ports except the DC-In board.
Sections
- Battery 2 steps
- Keyboard 7 steps
- Lower Case 12 steps
- Bottom Shield 2 steps
- DC-In Board 3 steps
- Upper Case 7 steps
- Top Shield 2 steps
- Modem 3 steps
- Heat Sink 7 steps
- Logic Board 14 steps
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Step 3
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Keyboard
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Pull the keyboard release tabs toward you and lift up on the keyboard until it pops free.
If the keyboard does not come free, use a small flathead screwdriver to turn the keyboard locking screw 180 degrees in either direction and try again.
Flip the keyboard over, away from the screen, and rest it face-down on the trackpad area.

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Step 29
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Remove the following 7 screws from the edges of the keyboard area.
Three 2 mm Phillips along the right edge.
One 4.5 mm Phillips underneath where the magnet was.
One 6 mm Phillips with a small head in the lower left corner.
Two 6 mm Phillips with large heads, one in the upper left corner and one in the middle

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Step 30
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Before you can yank the upper case off, you must disconnect the trackpad connector, the blue and white power cable, and speaker cable as described in the next steps.
Lift the upper case from the right side and use a spudger or your finger to disconnect the trackpad connector hidden beneath the white plastic tab. Due to model variatons your trackpad connector may be different from the one pictured.

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Step 32
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The connectors at the ends of the cables are attached very firmly to the sockets on the logic board. Pulling directly on the cable will either separate the cable from its connector or the socket from the logic board.
Lift the upper case enough to disconnect the blue and white power cable from the logic board. Using your fingernails or a dental pick, carefully pry the connector from its socket. Make sure you're pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.

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Step 33
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Lift the upper case off completely and disconnect the multicolored speaker cable from the logic board. As before, make sure you're pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.
Tip: the multi-coloured cable may be easier and less daunting to disconnect after removing the top heat shield. Prop the top case upright while removing the shield - the connector is then much more accessible.

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Step 43
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The 3.5 mm Phillips screw indicated below with a red circle may be absent in some models.
Remove the following 5 screws and 3 nuts from the heat sink:
One 3.5 mm Phillips from the lower left corner of the heat sink.
Three 6 mm Phillips from around the fan.
One 7.5 mm Phillips at the top right corner of the heat sink.
One 4 mm nut from the side of the heat sink.
Two 4 mm screw nuts with attached springs from either side of the heat sink.

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Step 44
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It may be necessary to soften the thermal paste between the logic board and heat sink. You can soften the thermal compound using a hairdryer. Move the hairdryer back and forth over the ribbed metal section of the heat sink for one minute. At this point, the heat sink should come free easily.
Use a spudger to pry the heat sink up on the left side, near the hard drive.

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Step 45
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Grasp the heat sink in one hand and lift up the hinge grill in the other hand so that you can remove the heat sink from the computer.
If you need to mount the heat sink back into the laptop, we have a thermal paste guide that makes replacing the thermal compound easy.

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Step 50
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The cable you're about to remove is very fragile - do not pull directly on the wires. Instead, try to pry up the connector directly, using a spudger or a small flathead screwdriver if necessary.
Disconnect the microphone cable at the front of the computer, between the left side of the hard drive and the metal framework.
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