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iPod Touch 2nd Generation Battery Replacement
- Author: Walter Galan
- Difficulty: Very difficult
Use this guide to replace a worn-out battery on your 2nd generation Touch. This procedure requires soldering.
Tools (continued)
Relevant parts
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Step 1
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Front Panel
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The glass front panel on the second generation Touch has a plastic frame glued both to its outer edge and also under the wide black strips at the top and bottom of the device. The frame also has a rubber strip that surrounds the edge of the glass panel.
The picture at left (front panel already removed) shows the locations of the metal clips (shown in red) that snap on to the plastic frame. In the next few steps, try to pry the front panel up from the gaps between these clips.
Also, be mindful of the very thin and delicate touch screen ribbon cable (connector location shown in orange) attaching the front panel to the upper left corner of the Touch.

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Step 3
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Insert the iPod opening tool between the front panel and its plastic surround and pry up at several points along the left edge of the Touch.
Do not insert the tool and run it down the edge of the front panel. This may damage the front panel and the rubber seal. It is best to work one point, pry up, then remove the tool and reinsert it at the next spot to be pried up.

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Step 8
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Use the flat end of a spudger (or an opening tool) to pry the touch screen cable connector up off the upper logic board.
Now that the front panel is out, check it for damage. If the plastic surround is not flush with the front face of the glass panel, gently peel it off and stick it down.
Be careful not to scratch the front panel on the underside of the black portions, as the scratches will be visible once the device is reassembled.
Be sure to clean both the face of the display and the inner surface of the front panel, as any dust or fingerprints will be trapped inside the Touch once it is fully reassembled.

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Step 21
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The battery on the second generation Touch is attached via solder pads with small holes that go through the battery ribbon cable and attach to flat pads on the face of the logic board. In this step, you will heat each solder pad individually while using a metal spudger to pry it up from the logic board.
DO NOT bridge the connection between the solder pads both on the board and on the ribbon cable with your spudger. Shorts have the potential to ruin the logic board.
Beware of overheating the board and the cable. Only hold the tip of the iron against the pad long enough to let the solder melt. Excess heat buildup has the potential to ruin the logic board or melt the ribbon cable.
Start working from one side of the battery ribbon cable. In our case, we started on the left. Heat the leftmost solder pad while gently prying up from under the ribbon cable to free it from the board. Repeat this process for each of the two remaining pads, working either right to left or left to right.

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Step 24
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Place your battery in the rear panel, with the cable side down, and use two small strips of electrical tape to hold the cable against the solder pads.
Installing the battery upside down (with the cable facing up) will destroy the logic board.
Place a strip of tape over the end of the battery ribbon cable to both cover two of the solder pads and hold the contacts down against the logic board.
Heat the rightmost contact until the solder below melts and apply a small amount of solder to the contact, allowing it to flow through the two holes in the cable and down to the logic board.
Do not apply too much solder. The amount required for a proper bond is miniscule.
As soon as the solder has flowed into the joint, remove both the solder and the iron.

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Step 25
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Remove the piece of tape covering the remaining two leads. If you are satisfied with the position of the cable relative to the pads on the board, proceed. If not, de-solder the first connection and try again.
Solder the two remaining pads to the logic board, being mindful of overheating the cable or board.
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