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Installing PowerBook G4 Aluminum 12" 867 MHz DC-In Board
- Author: iRobot
- Difficulty: Difficult
Tripped over your power cord? At least you don't have to replace the entire logic board.
Sections
- Battery 1 step
- EMI Finger 2 steps
- Airport Extreme Card 3 steps
- Keyboard 5 steps
- Upper Case 9 steps
- Reed Switch 2 steps
- Hard Drive 3 steps
- Modem 3 steps
- Heat Sink & Fan 7 steps
- DC-to-DC Board 2 steps
- Metal Framework 8 steps
- Logic Board 3 steps
- DC-In Board 3 steps
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Step 7
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Keyboard
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On the keyboard, remove the F1, F2, F11, and F12 keys.
This is scary - take a deep breath before continuing. Place your index finger under the upper left corner of the key and lift up until you hear a click. Then, transfer your finger to the left edge of the key and lift up to pull the key off.
You're freeing the two tabs on the left of the key from the two small holes in the plastic scissors mechanism.
When replacing the keys in the keyboard, place the key directly over the slot where it will go and press down until you hear the key click into place.

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Step 16
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Turn the computer over and open it up.
Remove the following 14 screws:
Six 2.5 mm Phillips on either side of the keyboard area.
Five 4.5 mm Phillips on the left half of the keyboard area.
One 7 mm hex in the upper left corner of the upper case (a T6 Torx driver will do the job nicely).
One 15 mm Phillips in the upper middle of the keyboard area.
One 16.5 mm hex in the upper right of the upper case (again, a T6 Torx driver will work well).

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Step 17
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Peel up the two pieces of foil tape on the left side of the keyboard area.
The connectors at the ends of the cables are attached very firmly to the sockets on the logic board. Pulling directly on the cable will either separate the cable from its connector or the socket from the logic board.
Carefully disconnect the microphone and power cables from the logic board. Using your fingernails or a dental pick, carefully pry the connectors from their sockets. Make sure you're pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.

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Step 31
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Peeling up yellow tape as necessary, remove the following 8 screws:
One 4.5 mm Phillips on the right side of the heat sink.
Three 6 mm Phillips near the display.
Two large 7.5 mm Phillips with springs (don't forget to remove the springs). If the springs are not releasing, needle nose pliers can help get this done.
Two 13 mm screws from the left side of the heat sink and the right side of the fan.

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Step 35
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Grasp the heat sink near the copper conductor and lift it out of the computer, freeing it from tape and cables as necessary.
If you need to mount the heat sink back into the laptop, we have a thermal paste guide that makes replacing the thermal compound easy.

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Step 36
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DC-to-DC Board
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Remove the following five screws:
One 3 mm Phillips near the screen latch (mind the big magnet on the screen latch).
Two 3.5 mm Phillips attaching the EMI fingers to the metal framework.
One 10 mm Phillips near the optical drive.
One 14 mm long 4 mm standoff in the upper left corner. You can remove this standoff either with a 4 mm nut driver or needlenose pliers.
Lift the EMI fingers above the battery connector away from the metal framework.

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Step 51
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The tip of my power supply plug broke off inside the power receptacle.
Once the DC-in board has been removed.
Peal back the metal RFI shield.
At the back of the power receptacle - gently pull the top of the center tab out away from the receptacle body. Forming a gap.
From the front of the receptacle - use a screwdriver to push the broken tip out the gap.
Push the center tab back in place.
Replace the RFI shield.
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