PowerBook G4 Titanium DVI Upper Case Replacement

This guide is used to disassemble the PowerBook G4 Titanium DVI Upper Case.

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Edit Step 1 Battery  ¶ 

  • Locate the battery release tab on the underside of the G4.

  • Slide the battery release tab to the left and lift the battery out of the computer.

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Edit Step 2 Keyboard  ¶ 

  • Turn the keyboard locking screw located in the middle of the keyboard so that it is parallel to the space bar. A half turn from parallel to parallel will unlock it. Another half turn will lock it again.

  • Pull the keyboard release tabs toward you and lift up on the keyboard until it pops free.

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Rest the keyboard face down on the trackpad area.

  • Disconnect the keyboard connector from the logic board.

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Your laptop should look approximately like this.

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Edit Step 5 RAM  ¶ 

  • Release the tabs on each side of the RAM chip at the same time. These tabs lock the chip in place and releasing them will cause the chip to "pop" up.

  • Pull the RAM chip out.

  • Repeat this process if a second RAM chip is installed.

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Edit Step 6 Lower Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the seven T8 Torx screws from the lower case.

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Using your thumbs, slide the lower case away from you.

  • The lower case may stick in the front on a tab just above the center of the optical drive. Be careful as you work the case off, or you may break the thin strip of plastic just above the drive.

  • Lift the lower case off.

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Your laptop should look approximately like this.

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Edit Step 9 Airport Card  ¶ 

  • Firmly grasp the plastic tab attached to the Airport card and pull up and to the left.

  • Disconnect the antenna cable from the left side of the Airport card.

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Edit Step 10 Hard Drive  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the hard drive ribbon from the logic board using a spudger or the tip of your finger.

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • To free the hard drive, remove the two T8 Torx screws from the right wall of the battery housing.

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Remove the hard drive by lifting the left edge up and out of the computer.

  • There are four rubber bumpers that fit over the hard drive screws. Ensure that these bumpers come out when you remove the hard drive.

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Your laptop should look approximately like this.

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Edit Step 14 Optical Drive Removal  ¶ 

  • Disconnect and remove the indicated orange ribbon cable.

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the pink and white inverter cable from the inverter board.

  • The display inverter has orange plastic shielding around it that looks similar to the tape used elsewhere within the computer. Do not remove the shielding from the inverter.

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Remove the two silver T8 Torx screws from the black plastic bar.

  • Lift the black plastic bar out.

  • Reassembly will be significantly easier if you reseat the hard drive before returning the black bar to its place.

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the two orange connectors from the logic board, removing tape as necessary.

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Lift the drive up on the right side so that you can access and disconnect the modem cable and inverter cable.

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Remove the drive by lifting the right edge up and out of the computer.

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Edit Step 20 DC-In Board  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the large DC-In connector from the right side of the logic board.

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Remove the two T6 Torx screws from the DC-In board.

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Lift the DC-In board out of the computer by pulling up and away from you.

  • If you don't have a 667 MHz computer, there is a fan in this location which makes it a bit difficult to remove the DC-In board.

  • If there is a fan present, rotate the DC-In board slightly clockwise before easing it out at a slight angle in order to clear the fan clamp on top of it.

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Edit Step 23 Modem Filter Board  ¶ 

  • Before continuing, place a soft cloth on your work surface to rest the computer on. Turn the G4 over and place it on the cloth.

  • Disconnect the four indicated connectors from the logic board.

  • The large multicolor cable may be difficult to free.

  • The top center cable may not need to be disconnected to remove the modem filter board. It connects to the logic board fan to its immediate left, which is attached to the logic board itself.

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Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Remove the T8 Torx screw near the heat pipe.

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Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the two connectors from the modem filter board.

  • To the immediate right of the modem filter board, the heatsink has two sets of five fins with a double-wide space in between them. This space is where the gray & black coiled wire is supposed to go to ensure a flush fit.

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Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Remove the T6 Torx screw from the modem filter board.

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Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • Remove the modem filter board from the computer by pulling up and to the right.

  • There is a small plastic post which helps hold the modem filter board in place. You need to clear this post to remove the modem filter board from the computer.

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Edit Step 28 Logic Board  ¶ 

  • Turn the G4 over.

  • Remove the seven T8 Torx screws from the logic board.

  • The five black screws go on the right side of the logic board, the large silver screw goes at the top, and the small silver screw is located on the left side.

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Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the 5 indicated connectors from the logic board, removing tape as necessary.

  • Reassembly Tip: Reseating the logic board will be much easier if you use kapton tape to hold these five connectors out of the way until it is in place.

  • Caution: If taping the connectors back, be careful not to use tape with anything but very weak adhesive (i.e. kapton tape). Even electrical tape can pull the paint off the hinges when removed.

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Edit Step 30  ¶ 

  • Carefully lift the logic board up and pull it away from you.

  • This step requires some force, but if the logic board will not come up, make sure that you have removed all the necessary screws and connectors. Warming the heatsink with a heatgun or blow dryer will help release the logic board.

  • On 800 MHz and above G4s, you must disconnect the fan cable from the logic board before you lift the board entirely off.

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Edit Step 31  ¶ 

  • Your laptop should look approximately like this.

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Edit Step 32 PC Card Cage  ¶ 

  • Remove the two T8 Torx screws that secure the PC Card cage.

  • Remove the 4 mm hex nut from the PC Card cage.

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Edit Step 33  ¶ 

  • Remove the PC Card cage by pulling it to the right and twisting slightly toward you.

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Edit Step 34 Fan  ¶ 

  • Remove the fan or placeholder from the computer.

  • If you have a 667 MHz computer there is no fan in this location and just a placeholder bracket.

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Edit Step 35 Display  ¶ 

  • Performing the following steps incorrectly can easily damage the display and render it inoperable. The multicolored display data cable is especially fragile.

  • Remove the four black T8 Torx screws from the plastic framework.

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Edit Step 36  ¶ 

  • Turn the G4 over.

  • Remove the five silver T8 Torx screws from the metal framework.

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Edit Step 37  ¶ 

  • Turn the G4 over.

  • Grasp the plastic framework and pull directly up.

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Edit Step 38  ¶ 

  • Disconnect and remove the pink and white inverter cable, removing tape as necessary.

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Edit Step 39  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the audio connector cable on the right side of the computer.

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Edit Step 40  ¶ 

  • Position the display approximately at a 45 degree angle and rest the computer on a soft cloth with the back panel ports facing up.

  • Remove the two T8 Torx screws from each clutch cover.

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Edit Step 41  ¶ 

  • Close the display and pull off both clutch covers. You can use a non-metal flathead screwdriver if the clutch covers do not come off easily.

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Edit Step 42  ¶ 

  • Open the back panel port cover and remove the four T6 Torx screws.

  • The upper screw on each side fastens a small metal mount in place. Be sure to put this part back in when reassembling the computer.

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Edit Step 43  ¶ 

  • Open the display to a 90 degree angle. Rest the trackpad face down on your work surface and allow the display to hang over the edge. If possible, adjust your chair or worksurface height so the display will rest on your legs and the trackpad will lie flat on the worksurface.

  • Remove the four T8 Torx screws which fasten the display to the trackpad. The screw closest to the display data cable has a tapered head.

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Edit Step 44  ¶ 

  • Grasp the metal heat exchanger and pull up and away from you. You may need to move the inverter cable on the right side of the computer in order to rotate the heat exchanger.

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Edit Step 45  ¶ 

  • Lift up the metal brackets on either side of the upper case.

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Edit Step 46  ¶ 

  • Carefully thread the inverter cable on the right side through the slot in the upper case.

  • Carefully thread the display and backlight cables individually through the slot in the upper case. Be very careful with the display cable as it is easily damaged.

  • Remove the display assembly.

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Edit Step 47 Upper Case  ¶ 

  • Re-align the metal heat exchanger with the upper case. Reconnect the audio connector cable on the right side of the upper case.

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Edit Step 48  ¶ 

  • Use a spudger to pry the PRAM battery out of its housing on the upper case. Make sure not to bend the PRAM battery too much while prying it out.

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Edit Step 49  ¶ 

  • Your upper case should look approximately like this.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the PowerBook G4 Titanium DVI device page.

Required Tools

TR8 Torx Security Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Anti-Static Wrist Strap

$7.95 · 50+ In stock

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$9.95 · 32 In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

This is not a screw, it is light transmitting plastic for the num lock light

Shadewing, · Reply

The keyboard connector can be very tightly connected. Use caution and a pair of needle nose pliers to pull it up from the board. The left side of the connector (left as shown in the photo) is easier to grasp than the right, so grab it on that side with the pliers and pull carefully. It will come off.

Sugar Fish, · Reply

T9 is a better fit

Rufleyboy, · Reply

At this point, the inverter (shown at extreme upper-right hand corner of image with pink&white wires attached) can be accessed directly. There is no need to remove the hard disk, optical drive, or modem!

ifixit, · Reply

The hard drive can be removed with its bumpers intact, by just taking off the black plastic clamp to its right. Reinserting the drive is also vastly easier when done this way.

ratiocination, · Reply

The pink and white inverter cable connection to the inverter board is very tight. Grasp the notch on the right side of the white connector with needle nose pliers and gently wiggle and pull it out of the socket.

Sugar Fish, · Reply

During reassembly, make sure pink and white inverter cable with white plug does not get trapped under the edge of the drive unit.

einar3888, · Reply

Notice the small metal clip in the middle of the optical drive bay - it can be seen on the right side of this picture, just below the keyboard ribbon cable connector. It may come loose when removing the optical drive. Its function doesn't seem to be important (it appears that it just holds couple of conductors) but keep track of it when reassembling the computer.

Sylvester McMonkey, · Reply

The Torx screw on the right can be hard to reach (and put back). To get it back, I pushed my Torx wrench through a piece of double sided tape (used for laying carpet), which left a little dot of adhesive on the tip of the wrench that held the screw while performing the contortions to put the screw back in place...

Lami, · Reply

You're doing something wrong—only the left screw at that position needs to be removed to detach the heatsink from the logic board. In fact this whole walkthru would be simplified a great deal if it concentrated on removing the logic board, heat sink, and internal frame as a unit. There would be only 9 screws instead of ~25, and fewer chances to bend or break intricate parts.

ratiocination, · Reply

When replacing the logic board, be careful not to lose the top connector's wires under the plate beneath the modem filter board.

Sugar Fish, · Reply

To remove the screw by the battery case, you'll have to first remove the tape covering the connector that leads to the trackpad.

Sugar Fish, · Reply

The little silver screw on the left has a little 4mm hex nut under it. This, in turn is held to the PC card cage (step 32) by another nut accessed from the touchpad side of the PowerBook. The screw wouldn't come out without me holding this nut - which then came out together with the screw. After this I found another nut on the table and wondered where it came from! But it became clear when reassembling the computer, as you have to put the PC card cage back first and need to use both nuts at that time to secure the side of the cage toward the back of the computer. Apparently I must have inadvertently loosened the lower connection on the 4mm nut, as it was meant to come off only later...

Lami, · Reply

I cannot find where the 2nd fan connects to the board. I took my logic board out and now I can't find where the fan connects on the board.

dylanbyrnes9, · Reply

It plugs into the logic board on the top side (opposite from the side showing in the picture) beside the FireWire jack.

ratiocination, · Reply

I am having a very difficult time removing the logic board. I double checked that I have all of the connectors disconnected and all of the proper screws out but it just won't budge beyond 1/8 inch when I lift from the top (where the man's fingers are in the photo). I think the CPU is strongly adhered to the heatsink and it won't come apart. Suggestions?

amethystjw, · Reply

I solved this problem by heating the heatsink from the other side (from the keyboard side) using a hair dryer on high heat for about two minutes. It turns out that this was TOO effective and the heatsink compound dripped and made a bit of a mess. The point, though, is that heating it works.

Quote from amethystjw:

I am having a very difficult time removing the logic board. I double checked that I have all of the connectors disconnected and all of the proper screws out but it just won't budge beyond 1/8 inch when I lift from the top (where the man's fingers are in the photo). I think the CPU is strongly adhered to the heatsink and it won't come apart. Suggestions?

amethystjw, · Reply

On my machine, the screw on the right was silver and held down a little clamp which came off together with the screw.

Lami, · Reply

After getting the display off, I tried to glue the broken hinge - it was broken at the outer corner of the PowerBook (the break had actually wrenched the case open at the corner) and just beside the hinge itself on the inner side by the display cable. Tried twice but no luck, the forces seem too great and the glue joints just break again. So the advice given on this site is correct; about the only thing you can do is buy a new display. However, when I reassembled it I left the back clutch cover off - at least I can open and close the display now if I am really careful...

Lami, · Reply

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