PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) Front Display Bezel Replacement

Replace the front display bezel on your PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res).

Use this guide to replace the front display bezel with its attached antenna cables.

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Edit Step 1 Battery  ¶ 

  • Use your thumbs to push the two battery retaining tabs away from the battery.

  • The battery should pop up enough to rotate it toward yourself and lift it out of the lower case.

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Edit Step 2 Memory Door  ¶ 

  • Remove the three 2.3 mm Phillips screws securing the memory cover to the lower case.

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Lift the memory cover slightly and pull it toward yourself to remove it from the lower case.

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Edit Step 4 Upper Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Two 14.7 mm shouldered Phillips.

    • Three 12.3 mm Phillips.

    • One 3.8 mm T8 Torx.

    • One 6.8 mm T8 Torx.

    • Three 1.3 mm Phillips.

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • The ZIF cable is located underneath the bottom RAM slot. If your PowerBook has both RAM slots occupied, make sure to remove the RAM chip.

  • Use your fingernails to separate the ZIF cable lock away from its socket. (Move the two brown bits down 1mm)

  • The ZIF cable lock will move about a millimeter away from the socket before it stops (see picture 2). Do not try to remove the ZIF cable lock.

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to slide the trackpad ribbon cable out of its socket.

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Remove the four 3.4 mm Phillips screws from the PC card side of the PowerBook.

  • When replacing these screws, you must reinstall each screw in the correct order. Begin by installing the screw closest to the display hinge, and go out from there.

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Remove the four 3.4 mm Phillips screws from the DVI connector side of the PowerBook.

  • When replacing these screws, you must reinstall each screw in the correct order. Begin by installing the screw closest to the display hinge, and go out from there.

  • During reassembly, make sure to reinstall the two screws on the right into their appropriate locations, and not the DVI port anchor holes.

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Depress the display latch release button and open your display.

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Starting near the display, lift the upper case straight up off the lower case, minding any cables that may get caught.

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Edit Step 11 Modem  ¶ 

  • If necessary, peel back the strip of aluminum tape covering the modem cable.

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the modem cable connector up off the modem.

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the RJ-11 cable from the modem.

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Use a 4 mm nut driver to remove the two nuts securing the modem to the PC card cage.

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Lift the modem straight up off the studs on the PC card cage.

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Edit Step 16 PC Card Cage  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the hard drive cable connector up off the logic board.

  • Bend the hard drive cable away from the PC card cage, giving yourself room to remove it.

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the PC card cage connector up off the logic board.

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to peel back the small strip of copper tape off the edge of the PC card cage near the side of the lower case.

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Remove the four Phillips screws (2- 4 mm & 2 -6.8 mm ) securing the PC card cage to the lower case.

  • The two longer 6.8 mm shouldered screws belong in the end of the PC card cage closest to the logic board.

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Lift the PC card cage by its center piece and maneuver it out of the lower case.

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • When reinstalling your PC card cage, be sure to insert the post sticking up from the PC card release button into the hole in the black plastic release mechanism on the PC card cage.

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Edit Step 22 AirPort/Bluetooth Board  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the ribbon cable connector up off the AirPort/Bluetooth board.

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Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 2.1 mm Phillips screw securing the AirPort/Bluetooth bracket to the lower case.

  • It is possible to remove the AirPort/Bluetooth board without removing this screw. Alternatively use the sharp end of a spudger to press the metal pressure connector (shown in orange) down through the hole in the AirPort/Bluetooth board, being careful to not break it off when prying the board up in the next step.

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Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the AirPort/Bluetooth board up off the adhesive securing it to the lower case.

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Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • If necessary, remove the piece of tape and EMI foam covering the AirPort/Bluetooth antennas.

  • Don't forget to reapply this piece of tape during reassembly. It insulates the bare antenna connectors from the metal PC card cage.

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Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna connectors up off the AirPort/Bluetooth board.

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Edit Step 27 Display  ¶ 

  • Pull the display data cable away from its socket to disconnect it from the logic board.

  • Be sure to pull only parallel to the face of the logic board, as pulling up on the socket will break it off the logic board.

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Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • If necessary, use the tip of a spudger to remove the small piece of foam tape from the side of the left speaker.

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Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the inverter cable from the logic board.

  • Be sure to pull only parallel to the face of the logic board, as pulling up on the socket will break it off the logic board.

  • When pulling this connector away from its socket, it is helpful to use your fingernails to pull on the ears at each side of the connector.

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Edit Step 30  ¶ 

  • De-route both AirPort/Bluetooth antennas and the inverter cable from underneath the DC-in board ribbon cable.

  • It is not necessary to remove the DC-in board cable.

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Edit Step 31  ¶ 

  • Before proceeding, be sure your display is perpendicular to the lower case.

  • Remove four T6 Torx screws from the left display hinge. 2- 8 mm and 1 -10 mm and one 6 mm left to right.

  • We intentionally have you leave one screw in the left display hinge to aid in disassembly.

  • The screw holding the plastic display cable bracket to the lower case is shorter than the rest.

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Edit Step 32  ¶ 

  • Remove four T6 Torx screws from the right display hinge. 2- 8 mm and 1 -10 mm and one 6 mm right to left.

  • We intentionally have you leave one screw in the right display hinge to aid in disassembly.

  • The screw holding the plastic display cable bracket to the lower case is shorter than the rest.

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Edit Step 33  ¶ 

  • While supporting the display with one hand, remove the one remaining T6 10 mm Torx screw from each display bracket (two screws total).

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Edit Step 34  ¶ 

  • Lift the display straight up from the lower case, minding any cables that may get caught.

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Edit Step 35  ¶ 

  • Here are a few tips for reassembling the display. These apply to both the left and right display brackets:

    • A small bracket (shown in red) near either side of the clutch cover is free to rotate about the display hinge and must be inserted behind the heat sink framework for the display to seat properly.

    • Before completely lowering the display onto the lower case, use a spudger to rotate the bracket toward the rear edge of your PowerBook, and insert the bracket between the heat sink framework and the adjacent spring. The second picture shows the bracket correctly installed.

    • When removing the display screws, keep track of the thin metal bracket (shown in green) under the screws on the inner display bracket.

    • The outer display bracket (shown in orange) simply slides onto the spiral display spring. Be sure to press it on before installing your display into the lower case.

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Edit Step 36 Rear Display Bezel  ¶ 

  • Remove the single Phillips screw from the lower left and right corners of the display.

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Edit Step 37  ¶ 

  • The picture at left (rear panel already removed) shows the locations of the metal clips (shown in red) that snap on to the front display bezel. In the next few steps, you will use a small flathead screwdriver to release these clips from a ridge around the perimeter of the front display bezel.

  • When prying in the following steps, be sure not to damage the antenna cables that run around the perimeter of the front display bezel.

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Edit Step 38  ¶ 

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the front display bezel and the plastic rim attached to the rear bezel near the lower right corner of the display.

  • Do not try to insert the spudger between the front display bezel and its plastic surround.

  • While carefully prying the rear display bezel away from the display assembly, use a small flathead screwdriver to pry the small steel clip nearest the bottom right corner of the display away from the edge of the front display bezel.

  • Repeat the above procedure until you've released all the clips along the right side of the display.

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Edit Step 39  ¶ 

  • Slightly lift the recently-freed corner of the rear display bezel to separate the clips along the span of the clutch hinges.

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Edit Step 40  ¶ 

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the rear display bezel and the plastic surround of the front display bezel near the lower left corner of the display.

  • Carefully pry the rear display bezel away from the front display bezel to release a metal clip.

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Edit Step 41  ¶ 

  • Repeat the previous procedure to release the clips along the left side of the rear display bezel.

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Edit Step 42  ¶ 

  • Slightly lift the lower edge of the rear display bezel and push it toward the top edge of the display, releasing the clips along the top edge of the rear display bezel.

  • Remove the rear display bezel and set it aside.

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Edit Step 43 LCD  ¶ 

  • If present, remove the pieces of tape stuck to the lower edge of the LCD.

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Edit Step 44  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to lift the display inverter enough to grab it with your fingers.

  • Lift the display inverter slightly out of the clutch hinges.

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Edit Step 45  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the backlight cable from its socket on the display inverter.

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Edit Step 46  ¶ 

  • If present, remove the strip of tape covering the display data cable connector.

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Edit Step 47  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the display data cable from its socket on the LCD.

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Edit Step 48  ¶ 

  • Remove the four 3.3 mm Phillips screws securing the right side of the LCD to the front display bezel.

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Edit Step 49  ¶ 

  • Remove the three 3.3 mm Phillips screws along the top edge of the LCD.

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Edit Step 50  ¶ 

  • Remove the four 3.3 mm Phillips screws along the left side of the LCD.

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Edit Step 51  ¶ 

  • In the following steps, you will use a heat gun to soften the adhesive securing the metal LCD frame to the front display bezel. Heat guns have the capability of producing an extremely hot jet of air, so be sure not to overheat the LCD panel.

  • With the heat gun set to low, start by heating the front display bezel near the upper left corner of the display panel.

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Edit Step 52  ¶ 

  • Insert a plastic opening tool between the metal LCD frame and the front bezel.

  • Be sure you are prying between the metal LCD frame and the front bezel, not between the metal LCD frame and the LCD.

  • It may be necessary to reheat this area until the adhesive yields enough to insert the edge of a tool.

  • Use the flat end of a metal spudger to gently pry up the adhesive securing the metal LCD frame to the front bezel, taking special care not to scratch the LCD panel.

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Edit Step 53  ¶ 

  • While it is still inserted between the metal LCD frame and the front bezel, run the edge of your metal spudger along the top edge of the display to separate the adhesive securing the two pieces together, heating the area you are working on with a heat gun as necessary.

  • If the adhesive is hard to separate, use a heat gun to lightly heat the area you are working on.

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Edit Step 54  ¶ 

  • Continue running the edge of your metal spudger between the LCD frame and the front bezel until the right, bottom, and left sides of the LCD are free.

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Edit Step 55  ¶ 

  • As you pull the top edge of the LCD out of the front display bezel, remove the small magnet that is responsible for putting the display to sleep when it is closed.

  • During reinstallation, be sure to place the magnet into its cutout in the top edge of the front display bezel.

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Edit Step 56  ¶ 

  • Lift the top edge of the LCD out of the front display bezel and slightly pull its bottom edge away from the clutch hinges.

  • Don't remove the LCD just yet.

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Edit Step 57  ¶ 

  • Push the backlight cable connector through the slot cut into the front display bezel.

  • Remove the LCD.

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Edit Step 58 Front Display Bezel  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to lift the display inverter enough to grab it with your fingers.

  • Lift the display inverter out of the clutch hinges.

  • Do not completely remove the display inverter yet, as it is still connected to the LCD.

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Edit Step 59  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the inverter cable from the display inverter.

  • Remove the display inverter and set it aside.

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Edit Step 60  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 10.3 mm T8 Torx screws securing the clutch hinges near the display data cable.

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Edit Step 61  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 10.3 mm T8 Torx screws securing the center of the clutch hinges.

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Edit Step 62  ¶ 

  • Remove the final pair of 10.3 mm T8 Torx screws securing the clutch hinges to the front display bezel.

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Edit Step 63  ¶ 

  • Separate the clutch hinges from the front display bezel.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the gray plastic end cap off the inverter cable side of the clutch hinges.

  • Remove the plastic end cap and set it aside.

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Edit Step 64  ¶ 

  • Slide the inverter and antenna cables out of their slot in the clutch hinges.

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Edit Step 65  ¶ 

  • De-route both the black and the gray antenna cables through the black plastic cable retainer attached to the inverter cable.

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Edit Step 66  ¶ 

  • Remove the 2.7 mm Phillips screw securing the display data cable ground loop to the front display bezel.

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Edit Step 67  ¶ 

  • Remove the clutch hinges (with the display data cable still attached) from the front display bezel.

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Edit Step 68  ¶ 

  • Front display bezel remains.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) device page.

Required Tools

TR8 Torx Security Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

4mm Nut Driver

$9.95 · 17 In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

The ZIF cable locks are the little grey pieces seen on the cable-side ends of the white bar. They will slide, as per detailed picture, toward the cable.

web, · Reply

Sometimes the "tags"/"lugs" that are around the edge of the top & bottom frame, be careful not to bend them as when putting back the covers they will not merge. I used a screwdriver to poke through the hole the screw was supposed go in & push against the "inside nut" to let the tag from the top slide down between the 2 tags. The "inside nut" is like the one right next to the ribbon cable as shown in Dia.14. The screws are from Dia. 7&8.

harry allcock, · Reply

in what direction does one move the ZIF cable lock? what/where is its socket?

Ian, · Reply

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