MacBook Pro 17" Unibody RAM Replacement

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

Upgrade your MacBook Pro 17" Unibody's RAM for an instant increase in computer speed.

Use this guide to replace your MacBook Pro's RAM.

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Image #1

Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Three 13.5 mm Phillips screws.

    • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

Image #1

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Wedge your fingers between the lower case and the vent, and lift upward to release the clips holding the lower case to the upper case.

  • Remove the lower case.

Image #1

Edit Step 3 Battery  ¶ 

  • Whenever working near the logic board, it is always wise to first disconnect the battery to avoid short circuits.

  • If present, grab the plastic tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the device.

  • If the plastic tab is missing, use a spudger to pry the connector up from its socket.

  • Pull the tab parallel to the face of the logic board.

Image #1

Edit Step 4 RAM  ¶ 

  • Release the tabs on each side of the RAM chip by simultaneously pushing each tab away from the RAM.

  • These tabs lock the chip in place and releasing them will cause the chip to "pop" up.

  • After the RAM chip has popped up, pull it straight out of its socket.

  • Repeat this process if a second RAM chip is installed.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the MacBook Pro 17" Unibody device page.

Required Tools

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Related Products

PC3-8500 1 GB RAM Chip

$9.95 · 16 In stock

PC3-8500 4 GB RAM Chip

$54.95 · 50+ In stock

Recommended Tools

Universal Drive Adapter

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Comments Comments are onturn off

Thank you iFixIt. Your tutorial gave me confidence to move forward and get inside my computer. I agree with bhodges2, a great opportunity to clean. I'd keep a can of compressed air handy next time. I would also use a separate compartment for each screw. I treated the case like a wheel, lightly tightening each first. Still, the 3mm screws do not seem not entirely interchangeable. Mixing them around, not forcing anything, eventually worked out.

paleo5, · Reply

important to reassemble the "lower case" successfully: the threads of the seven 3mm phillips screws are drilled at an angle :-/

mysterioes, · Reply

I recommend using anti-static protection, i.e., wearing a ground strap, or at least touch metal chassis inside the computer before unplugging cables. Otherwise, you might create an ESD discharge into your RAM and have to replace it like I did!

d68ef792, · Reply

This step is a little difficult in reverse, that is, when re-attaching the battery. It helps to tilt the laptop up so you can see the edge of the board that accepts the plug. It may look like there are two slots for it, it goes in the bigger slot that is further away from the board.

yary hluchan, · Reply

Is this step really necessary? It is not part of the instructions how to replace the HDD in Apple's User Manual of the 2011 17" MBP.

Tobias Hahn, · Reply

As it says in the step: "Whenever working near the logic board, it is always wise to first disconnect the battery to avoid short circuits." It is not required, but it is simple insurance to avoid a $1000+ repair should you accidentally short components on the board with something metal.

Andrew Bookholt,

There was no tab on my model. Battery is affixed to board and screws must be removed.

bhodges2, · Reply

Mine also, and looks as if removing connector could damage motherboard.

Stephen,

* There is no tab on the A1297 (late 2011) model's battery connector. Be careful with the connector, it chips off the edges easily! Otherwise the same as bhodges2 & Stephen's notes.

** (Pleas also include the exact Model and Part numbers like P/N: MD311D/A; Mod.: A1297 in the comments and notes for your MBP)

Pinguman, · Reply

Why are there no guides for the Late 2011 17" MacBook Pro A1297 (2.4GHz i7 quad core, MD311LL/A)??? I just replaced the RAM in mine and discovered that not only is there no tab on the battery connector, but the connector pulls straight up, perpendicular to the logic board, rather than parallel. I almost ripped the wires out of the connector by trying to pull it out parallel to the logic board like this guide instructed! After finally getting it out, my advice to those with the Late 2011 model is to use a spudger to loosen the edges of the connector then lift the connector straight up to get it out safely.

Dave, · Reply

Steps are not really in reverse order, they are but missing one step. There is a plastic snap that must be moved so the bottom will go back on there. As commented on the first page, the screw holes are all at an angle. Make sure to find the angle. Also the blue lock-tight was never mentioned. Also a great opportunity to clean.

bhodges2, · Reply

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