MacBook Pro 17" Models A1151 A1212 A1229 and A1261 LCD Replacement

Use this guide to replace just the LCD rather than the entire display assembly.

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Edit Step 1 Battery  ¶ 

  • Use your fingers to push both battery release tabs away from the battery and lift the battery out of the computer.

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Edit Step 2 RAM Shield  ¶ 

  • Remove the four identical Phillips 3mm screws from the memory door.

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Lift the memory door up enough to get a grip on it, and slide it toward you, pulling it away from the casing.

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Edit Step 4 Upper Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the three Phillips screws in the battery compartment near the latch. Apple was nice enough to tilt these screws at a slight angle to make them easier to remove.

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Remove the following six screws:

    • Two T6 Torx screws on either side of the RAM slot.

    • Four Phillips screws along the hinge.

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Remove the four Phillips screws on the port side of the computer.

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Rotate the computer 90 degrees and remove the two Phillips screws from the rear of the computer.

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Rotate the computer 90 degrees again and remove the four Phillips screws from the side of the computer.

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Do not yank the upper case off quickly. The case is attached to the logic board via a ribbon cable.

  • Lift up the back of the case and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case.

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the trackpad and keyboard ribbon cable from the logic board.

  • Remove the upper case.

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Edit Step 11 Display  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the two antenna cables from the AirPort Extreme card, the iSight and inverter cables from the left side of the logic board, and the display data cable from the right side of the logic board.

  • For A1229 and A1212 models, disconnect the three antenna cables from the AirPort Extreme card and the three connectors highlighted on the logic board.

  • For the A1229, the order of the cables from left to right is: Black (left; towards the edge of the case) — Grey (middle) — Blue (right; towards the middle of the case.

  • For the A1261 model, disconnect the two antenna cables from the AirPort Extreme card and the three connectors highlighted on the logic board.

  • Carefully peel the iSight and inverter cables off the top of the left fan and de-route the AirPort antenna cables from the channel in the left speaker.

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Remove the ten silver T6 Torx screws securing the display (five on each side-take note that the inside screws on both sides are longer with a thinner head).

  • Don't forget to replace the hinge end caps when reinstalling the display assembly. The end caps are side specific, so be sure that the posts are facing towards the lower case.

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Grasp the display assembly on both sides and lift it up and out of the computer.

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Edit Step 14 Rear Display Bezel  ¶ 

  • The hinge end caps on this model can be easily removed at this point, as they are not fastened to the hinge and may fall off during service.

  • Remove the Phillips screws from the lower left and right corners of the display (two screws total).

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger perpendicular to the face of the display between the plastic strip attached to the rear bezel and the front bezel.

  • Do not insert your spudger between the plastic strip and the rear bezel.

  • With the spudger still inserted, rotate it away from the display to separate the front and rear bezels.

  • Work along the right edge of the display until the rear bezel is evenly separated from the front bezel.

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Insert your spudger between the front and rear display bezels at the lower right corner of the display.

  • Pry the rear bezel away from the front bezel to slightly separate the bottom edge of the rear display bezel.

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the rear display bezel and the clutch cover.

  • Twist the spudger to separate the lower edge of the rear display bezel from the clutch cover.

  • Work along the lower edge of the rear bezel until it is evenly separated from the clutch cover.

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Now that the right and bottom edges of the rear bezel are slightly separated from the front bezel, use a spudger to pop the rear bezel off the tabs near the lower right corner of the display.

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the front bezel and the plastic strip attached to the rear bezel near the screw holes at the bottom corners of the display.

  • Rotate your spudger toward the rear bezel to separate it from the front bezel.

  • If necessary, continue separating the left edge of the rear bezel off the tabs on the front display bezel.

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Slightly lift the lower edge of the display and pull it away from the rear display bezel.

  • The rear display bezel remains.

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Edit Step 21 LCD  ¶ 

  • Remove the strip of tape covering the backlight leads.

  • Carefully lift the inverter out of the clutch cover enough to reach the backlight connector.

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the backlight cable from the inverter board.

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Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Remove the several strips of tape securing the ribbon cables to the LCD.

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Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully peel the three antenna strips off the lower edge of the LCD.

  • Work carefully, as these strips may tear in the process.

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Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the ZIF retaining flap on the camera cable socket at the edge of the camera board near the top center of the front display bezel.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Pull the camera cable out of its socket.

  • Peel the camera cable off the foam tape along the top edge of the display.

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Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Pull the display data cable toward the bottom edge of the display to disconnect it from the LCD.

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Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • Remove the four 3.2 mm Phillips screws along the right edge of the display.

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Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 3.2 mm Phillips screws on the top edge of the display.

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Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • Remove the four 3.2 mm Phillips screws along the left edge of the display.

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Edit Step 30  ¶ 

  • The next few steps will require you to separate the LCD from the adhesive applied to the upper and lower edges of the front bezel.

  • The adhesive is applied such that it sticks to a thin steel strip around the perimeter of the LCD. When prying your LCD away from the front panel, be sure you are separating the front panel from the steel strip on the LCD.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift one of the top corners of the LCD out of the front bezel.

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Edit Step 31  ¶ 

  • Work your way along the top edge of the LCD, slowly prying the attached steel strip away from the front bezel.

  • Continue prying the LCD off the front bezel along the left side of the display.

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Edit Step 32  ¶ 

  • Now that the top and left edges are free, slightly lift the LCD out of the front bezel for enough room to pry the steel strip along the lower edge of the LCD away from the front bezel.

  • Pry along the lower edge of the LCD until it is freed from the adhesive on the front bezel.

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Edit Step 33  ¶ 

  • Lift the LCD out of the front bezel, minding any cables that may get caught.

  • Replacement Note: there are clear plastic spacers attached via adhesive to the sides and bottom of the lcd panel. Be sure to transfer these spacers to the replacement panel for optimum fit.

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Edit Step 34  ¶ 

  • Before reassembling the display, be sure to reinstall the magnet shown into its recess cut into the right edge of the front display bezel.

  • Failure to reinstall this magnet will prevent your MacBook Pro from entering sleep mode when the display is closed.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the MacBook Pro 17" Models A1151 A1212 A1229 and A1261 device page.

Required Tools

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$9.95 · 30 In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Recommended Tools

Universal Drive Adapter

$29.95 · 50+ In stock

iFixit Lock Pick Set

$29.95 · 50+ In stock

Inspection Scope

$39.95 · 50+ In stock

Frictionless Ratchet

$24.95 · 50+ In stock

Portable Anti-Static Mat

$34.95 · 43 In stock

Comments Comments are onturn off

Before upgrading to a larger HD, you'll want to "clone" your original HD using the donation-ware program "Carbon Copy Cloner" (http://www.bombich.com/). Put the new HD in an external case; clone the original; test the clone (by starting up with it), then take apart the MacBook to put the new HD in the MacBook, and the original in the external case for use as a backup, etc. (You can't just drag the contents of the original HD to the new HD, and expect it to work; not since the days of OS 9 and before.)

amiller770, · Reply

Can I put more than two gigabytes of RAM in?

Noah Nsangou, · Reply

I made the mistake of wanting to do a clean install of OS and start fresh after installing a SSD. Now I can't install most browsers on OSX Leopard. Does anyone know what is the most current version of OS I can put on this system? (disk or download) Can I get to Snow or Lion?

2006 17" MackBook Pro Model#A1151

2.16 GHz Intel Core Duo

Memory: Two 1GB 667 MHz

Hard Drive: Corsair Force GS: SSD 128GB

scannon, · Reply

Note for re-assembly: For the hinge use the longest four Phillips screws.

R L, · Reply

The Philips screws in Step 5 are longer than the other Philips screws. Would be better if the instructions differentiated them. Otherwise it is possible to use the wrong screws in Step 7 when reassembling.

Alex, · Reply

When reassembling, please be careful not to screw into the wrong spot. I accidentally screwed into the DVI port and it was hard to remove the screw after that. I had to disassemble the whole thing again, only to find that I couldn't remove the screw from within as it was encased. After much scraping and prodding with a sewing needle, I was able to get that screw out. Phew!

isotope434, · Reply

Screw on the right is shorter

mikefal, · Reply

The screws on mine were exactly the same size.

Quote from mikefal:

Screw on the right is shorter

giby, · Reply

What are these two screws called?

ian, · Reply

WOW this step is very hard!!! its a serious suction cup..

nya, · Reply

Once the upper case is free...Carefully tilt the upper case from the front towards the screen as their is a ribbon cable directly beneath the keyboard and trackpad that will need to be removed in the next step.

Troy, · Reply

Be very careful not to bend the screw tabs on the top case the perimeter screws attach to. Bending them causes them to quickly fatigue and potentially break off. When reassembling the top case, be sure the tabs are all *inside* the case before reseating it. If you get resistance, pull the case back up, check the tabs and reseat the top case again.

Sheldon Carpenter, · Reply

Disconnecting this cable is optional, if instead you tip up the top case ~75 degrees, propping it up with something non-metalic (wedged in or by the battery compartment). Unplugging a connector from the main circuit board always carries slight additional risk.

amiller770, · Reply

It's not really necessary to disconnect the trackboard/keyboard ribbon cable. You can simply lean the upper case against the LCD.

Russ Greene, · Reply

how reconnect this cable?

anatole, · Reply

Remember to replace the little sponge-type object on top of the right-side set of 3 screws, towards the right.

Andrew, · Reply

To clarify the placement of the different screws:

There are two sets of 2 on each side and two sets of 3 on the insides. The "long" screws with "flat" heads are meant for the INSIDE of the sets of 3. I will represent short screws by the letter "S" and the long screws by the letter "L":

S S - S S L - L S S - S S

Andrew, · Reply

If you came to the Display Removal guide to replace just the LCD panel and not the entire assembly, you need to head over to the Front Bezel replacement guide.

Sheldon Carpenter, · Reply

Prying the rear display bezel off up with the plastic spudger can be frustrating. The plastic spudger just can't provide the torque. I actually used the combination of the plastic spudger (to start the separation) and a metal spudger to provide sufficient force to separate. I wrapped the metal spudger with some tape to prevent scratching. As usual, care is required to not bend the front bezel.

Sheldon Carpenter, · Reply

When you put these two screws back in they pierce the foil.

Peter, · Reply

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