MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 RAM Replacement

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

Replace the RAM on your Mid 2010 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody.

Accessing the RAM in this computer is straightforward and requires minimal disassembly.

Sections
Tools
Image #1

Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Three 13.5 mm (14.1 mm) Phillips screws.

    • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

Image #1

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Using both hands, lift the lower case near the vent to pop it off two clips securing it to the upper case.

  • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

Image #1

Edit Step 3 RAM  ¶ 

  • Release the tabs on each side of the RAM chip by simultaneously pushing each tab away from the RAM.

  • These tabs lock the chip in place and releasing them will cause the chip to "pop" up.

  • After the RAM chip has popped up, pull it straight out of its socket.

  • Repeat this process if a second RAM chip is installed.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 device page.

Required Tools

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Related Products

PC3-8500 1 GB RAM Chip

$9.95 · 16 In stock

PC3-8500 4 GB RAM Chip

$54.95 · 50+ In stock

Recommended Tools

Universal Drive Adapter

$29.95 · 50+ In stock

iFixit Lock Pick Set

$29.95 · 50+ In stock

Inspection Scope

$39.95 · 50+ In stock

Frictionless Ratchet

$24.95 · 50+ In stock

Portable Anti-Static Mat

$34.95 · 42 In stock

Comments Comments are onturn off

Step 3

Could not get ram to lock in correctly. Verified twice that it was the correct part but when installed i get a beeping sound on reboot and nothing else. Any suggestions?

Mark Nunes, · Reply

Step 1 (technically step 9 - replacing the base plate) Apparently one of my screws was a micron or two smaller than the others. This screw belongs to the hole above the optical drive, which is also apparently a couple of microns smaller than the others. It took seven attempts to figure which screw had originally been in that hole; all the other screws were too large, but fitted perfectly everywhere else.

Bizarre much?

Will, · Reply

It might be a matter of how the screws are driven in, and not that they're slightly different sizes. When I reassembled my MacBook, a couple of the screws, including the one over the optical drive you mention, were hard to drive in and jutted up a little bit instead of sitting entirely flush. Swapping screws didn't help. The solution was to unscrew them and drive them in at a bit of an angle - perpendicular to the slightly curved surface of the back plate where the screw holes were, instead of fully vertical with respect to the ground the Macbook is sitting on. Doing it that way, the screws were easier to drive in and they all ended up flush in their holes. Didn't matter which screws they were. (I swapped a few around just to check after reading this.)

Andrew Janke,

I discovered a great way of organizing the screws. I used an ice cube tray and added the screws in order, keeping the different kinds together. So when it came to reversing the steps, the screw order was an added control step to returning everything in its place.

leonie, · Reply

I would unplug the battery cable before removing/upgrading the RAM.

jimbbo, · Reply

The battery lead isn't obvious to remove. I had just done 2x 13" Mid 2011 versions and yes the plug is there and you can pry this off to isolate the battery. On the 15" 2010 version no mention of removing the battery connector, so I followed as instructed and ALL OK.

Marty, · Reply

it didnt work for me. still the one beep. with one or two ram sticks. no battery plugged in

Arianne DiNardo, · Reply

View Statistics:

Today: 27

This Week: 271

This Month: 675

All Time: 86,006