MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 AirPort/iSight Cable Replacement

Replace the AirPort/iSight Cable in your MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009.

Use this guide to replace the AirPort/iSight Cable.

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Edit Step 1 Access Door  ¶ 

  • With the case closed, place the Unibody top-side down on a flat surface.

  • Depress the grooved side of the access door release latch enough to grab the free end. Lift the release latch until it is vertical.

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • The access door should now be raised enough to lift it up and out of the Unibody.

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Edit Step 3 Battery  ¶ 

  • Be sure the access door release latch is vertical before proceeding.

  • Grab the translucent plastic tab and pull the battery up and out of the Unibody.

  • If the latch is depressed it will lock the battery in place.

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Edit Step 4 Lower Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the following eight screws securing the lower case to the chassis:

    • One 5.4 mm Phillips screw.

    • Three 14 mm Phillips screws.

    • Four 3.5 mm Phillips screws.

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Using both hands, lift and remove the lower case off the upper case.

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Edit Step 6 Display Assembly  ¶ 

  • If necessary, peel the EMI gasket off the camera cable connector.

  • Disconnect the camera cable by pulling the male end straight away from its socket toward the optical drive opening.

  • Do not try to lift this connector straight up off the board. Pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board.

  • Deroute the camera data cable from the channel in the optical drive.

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the camera cable bracket to the upper case.

  • The leftmost screw may remain captive in the camera cable.

  • Seperate the camera cable bracket from the camera cable and remove it from the computer.

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the LVDS cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-in side of the computer.

  • Pull the LVDS connector straight away from its socket.

  • When disconnecting the LVDS cable, do not pull on the black tab secured to the LVDS cable lock. We recommend wiggling the cable while applying tension to slowly "walk" the connector out of its socket.

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Remove the 7 mm Phillips screw from the LVDS cable bracket.

  • This screw may remain captive in the LVDS cable.

  • Lift the LVDS cable bracket out of the upper case.

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Remove the two outer 6 mm Torx screws securing each side of the display to the upper case (four screws total).

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Open your MacBook Pro so the display is perpendicular to the upper case.

  • Place your opened MacBook Pro on a table as pictured.

  • While holding the display and upper case together with your other hand, remove the 6 mm Torx screw from the lower display bracket.

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your other hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.

  • Remove the last remaining 6 mm Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly toward the top of the display so the upper display bracket clears the edge of the upper case.

  • Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case.

  • Lift the display away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.

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Edit Step 14 Front Display Glass  ¶ 

  • In the following steps, you will use a heat gun to soften the adhesive securing the outer black border around the underside of the front glass panel to the display. The area the adhesive is applied to is shown in red in the second picture.

  • Before starting, be sure to clean the display glass with lint-free cloth moistened with a mild solution; it will make the suction cup adhere better, and will make checking for dust on reassembly easier

  • With the heat gun set to low, start by heating the outer black border near the upper right corner of the glass panel.

  • Always aim the heat gun away from the soft rubber strip around the display glass. Heating the rubber will cause it to melt slightly, turning its finish from matte to glossy. Touching overheated rubber can cause it to permanently deform.

  • Due to the heat applied, it is normal for a layer of condensation to develop on the inside of the glass panel and/or the outside of the LCD. It can be removed with glass cleaner once the glass is separated from the display.

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • With the panel sufficiently heated, fasten a heavy-duty suction cup near the upper right corner of the display glass.

  • Don't fasten the suction cup on top of the rubber strip around the edge of the display glass.

  • To attach the suction cups we sell, first position the suction cup with the movable handle parallel to the face of the glass panel. While lightly holding the suction cup against the glass, raise the movable handle until it is parallel with the other handle.

  • Slowly and gently pull the corner of the display glass up off the display assembly.

  • If only the top edge of the glass lifts up (as seen in the third picture), repeat steps one and two until you can lift up the corner of the panel.

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Gently lift the corner of the display glass enough to insert a spudger between it and the display assembly.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry up the adhesive securing the front glass to the display.

  • Pry up the glass panel a few inches away from the upper right corner along the top and right edges of the display.

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Use a heat gun to soften the adhesive under the black strip along the right side of the front glass panel.

  • Attach a suction cup along the right side of the front glass panel.

  • Pull up on the glass panel while you use the flat end of a spudger to separate it from the rest of the display assembly.

  • Continue working along the right edge of the front display glass until it is separated from the display.

  • It may be helpful to use a guitar pick or another thin plastic object to keep the upper right corner of the front glass panel from sticking back down to the display assembly.

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Use your heat gun to soften the adhesive under the black strip along the top edge of the glass display panel.

  • Attach a suction cup near the top edge of the glass display panel and use it to pull the glass panel up off the display.

  • Work along the top edge of the glass panel, carefully using the flat end of a spudger to separate the adhesive if necessary.

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Use a heat gun to soften the adhesive under the black strip near the upper left corner of the glass display panel.

  • Attach a suction cup near the upper left corner of the glass display panel.

  • Pull up on the suction cup and use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry the glass display panel out of the display assembly.

  • Once the upper left corner has been separated from the display, it may be helpful to use a guitar pick or another thin plastic object to keep the glass from sticking back down to the display assembly.

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Use a heat gun to soften the adhesive under the black strip along the left side of the front glass panel.

  • Attach a suction cup along the left side of the front glass panel.

  • Pull up on the glass panel while you use the flat end of a spudger to separate it from the rest of the display assembly.

  • Continue working along the left edge of the front display glass until it is separated from the display.

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Now that the top, left, and right edges of the glass are free from the display, slowly lift the top edge of the glass panel and gently rotate it out of the display.

  • If necessary, use the flat end of a spudger to free the bottom edge of the glass display panel from the display assembly.

  • Before reassembling, be sure to clean both the inside of the glass display panel and the LCD as any dust or fingerprints trapped inside will be annoyingly visible when the machine is on.

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Insert the edge of a plastic opening tool between the display glass and the camera bracket, and run it around the camera bracket to separate it from the display glass.

  • Do not forget to stick the camera bracket down to the new front display glass before reassembly.

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Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • During the glass removal process, the camera cable may stick to the adhesive on the glass panel, disconnecting it from the camera board as the panel is lifted. If your camera cable is still connected to the camera board, skip this step.

  • To reconnect the cable, first use the tip of a spudger to remove the piece of foam tape over the camera cable ZIF socket.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the ZIF cable retainer on the camera cable socket.

  • Insert the camera cable into its socket on the camera board and use the tip of a spudger to snap down the ZIF cable retainer, locking the cable in place.

  • Reapply the piece of tape covering the camera cable socket.

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Edit Step 24 LCD  ¶ 

  • Slide the clutch cover toward the right edge of the display.

  • The clutch cover will move approximately .25" and stop. Do not force it too far to the right.

  • When reinstalling the clutch cover, be sure to slip it over the components protruding from the lower edge of the display about .25" to the right of its final installed position on the display.

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Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Starting at its far left end, rock the clutch cover along its long axis while pulling it away from the clutch hinge.

  • Working from right to left, carefully continue to release and lift the clutch along the lower edge of the display assembly.

  • Lift the clutch cover up off the front bezel and set it aside.

  • When reinstalling the clutch cover, be sure to widen the opening when slipping it over the small black plastic cosmetic cover that fills the open end of the clutch cover when it is in place. The cosmetic cover has very thin and delicate plastic arms that hold it to the right clutch hinge.

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Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Remove the six 2.9 mm Phillips screws securing the LCD panel to the front bezel.

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Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • Pull the LCD toward the top edge of the display to slide the circuitry along its lower edge out of the recess in the aluminum display assembly.

  • It may be helpful to use one hand to feed the display data cable through its channel in the aluminum display assembly as you pull the LCD toward the top edge of the display with the other hand.

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Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Peel the piece of tape covering the display data cable connector away from the edge closest to the LCD.

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Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the thin steel retaining clip securing the display data cable to its socket on the LCD.

  • Pull the display data cable straight away from its socket on the LCD.

  • Lift the LCD out of the display assembly and set it aside.

  • If you are replacing the LVDS/display data cable, simply de-route it from its slot cut into the display casing.

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Edit Step 30 AirPort/iSight Cable  ¶ 

  • Remove the 2.2 mm Phillips screw located near the bottom right corner securing the AirPort/iSight cable to the display assembly

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Edit Step 31  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 2.9 mm Phillips screw securing the plastic tab covering right edge of the inverter board.

  • Lift and remove the plastic tab up off the inverter board.

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Edit Step 32  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the iSight ribbon cable ZIF socket on the iSight board.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the iSight ribbon cable out of its socket.

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Edit Step 33  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to push the AirPort cable retaining lock away from its socket on the AirPort board.

  • Pull the AirPort cable straight out of its socket on the AirPort board.

  • Do not lift up on the AirPort cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the AirPort board.

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Edit Step 34  ¶ 

  • De-route the iSight ribbon cable from its channel near the top right corner of the display assembly.

  • Continue de-routing the AirPort/iSight cable from the right side of the display assembly.

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Edit Step 35  ¶ 

  • Carefully pull half of the AirPort/iSight cable through the opening located underneath the right hinge.

  • Do not pull the AirPort/iSight cable completely through the opening. The right hinge prevents the cable from complete removal. Forcing the cable through the opening may cause severe damage to your AirPort/iSight cable.

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Edit Step 36  ¶ 

  • Remove three 2.5 mm T6 Torx screws securing the right hinge to the display assembly.

  • Remove the right hinge up off the display assembly.

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Edit Step 37  ¶ 

  • Pull the AirPort/iSight cable through the opening located near the bottom right corner of the display assembly.

  • Remove the AirPort/iSight cable from the display assembly.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 device page.

Required Tools

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$9.95 · 31 In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

The A1286 has no Access Door.!!

I actually can see no sign of the battery!...

aguib, · Reply

Quote from aguib:

The A1286 has no Access Door.!!

I actually can see no sign of the battery!...

I assume you have the newer model, with the built-in battery. It's still removable with tools, but these are the wrong instructions for that model.

lgc90, · Reply

when will there be a guide for the other unibody macbook pro. that does not have an access door?

irishking, · Reply

Is there a manual to show, how disasembly the display, i mean, after step 5, to check the display between lcd and aluminiun back case?

Max

Max, · Reply

On other guides you state the height of the HD that can be supported, e.g. http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Repair/Insta... , I have read ( but have not confirmed ) that the uni-body MacBook Pro can be fitted with the 750GB and 1TB 12mm drive from Western Digital.

Can you confirm this?

Many thanks in advance.

ahothabeth, · Reply

Quote from SHerwood Ball:

My display and aluminum casing has separated.

I don't know if it just snaps back together or does it need to be glued.

I dropped mine on the carpeted stairs and the display still works.

I'm hoping I can just snap it back together and that no plastic pieces or teeth of the snapping

portion have been broken........

SHerwood Ball, · Reply

When you say "left fan" is this "left when looking at the logic board after turning the computer over and looking it up opening it up" or "left when sitting at the computer keyboard and typing on it"?

thvv, · Reply

We always use left and right in reference to the computer when you're using it.

Andrew Optimus Goldberg,

About midway along each edge is a snap. To release each snap, gently slide the flat edge of a Spudger under the lower case, then lift the lower case away.

jonathansturges, · Reply

I have a problem with previous made unprofessional teardown of this mac, and the port that the camera cable is connected to, on the m-board, is cracked, because somebody pulled it straight up .. can someone please, share an idea about the way of fixing it, or maybe a name of the part i need ?

sanchoser, · Reply

Ccouldn't make it past step 10 as the two T6 screws on the right stripped. I was using the correct tool, correctly seated, but the screws were simply unwilling to turn and the screw head gave out before they turned at all. The ones on the left came out alright, but there seems to be some type of thread glue on them. Recommendations on how to break that seal without stripping the screw heads might be a good idea. Otherwise - be forewarned.

Jonathan Field, · Reply

I have the same problem with step 10. Can't remove the screw on the left, it is all damaged.

Benny Chew, · Reply

Unlock without removing them , the two remaining center 6mm Torx screws securing the display to the upper case.

thierry28722, · Reply

What about matte screens?

I need to change the LCD on a 15" MBP with a matte screen.

Is the process of removing the grey metal frame similar? I guess not.

Pierre Touzet, · Reply

Another caution is needed - the heat gun is capable of discoloring the LCD panel (giving uneven coloration) if it overheats. This is possible on the low setting. Proceed cautiously, heating in increments until the glass releases.

Alden Stradling, · Reply

Be careful with the spudger and the soft rubber strip around the glass. Since the rubber strip has been heated up by the heat gun, it is easily smushed and deformed by the spudger.

robcork, · Reply

If you don't have a guitar pick, playing cards works too.

robcork, · Reply

If you will be reusing the glass, with new adhesive, then you will want to remove the old adhesive. This is a bit of a pain, as alcohol doesn't work, and you need to be careful to avoid damaging the black screen border, which is black paint on the back (adhesive) side of the glass.

To remove the adhesive, note that it is actually a thin film with rubber cement on both sides. First, use a razor to carefully pull up one corner of the film and gently peel it off of the glass. If you are gentle and slow, the underlying adhesive may also come off; if not, then rubbing with your finger or a hard rubber eraser will do the trick.

griscom, · Reply

This step is only needed if replacing the glass. If you are only replacing the LCD, there is no need to do this step

robcork, · Reply

Hey guys, I need to get the part where the screws are on, whats its name or where could I find it? That part on my Computer broke.... Do you guys think its possible to guet it somewhere?

diegoantegr31, · Reply

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