MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Optical Drive Replacement

  • Author: iRobot
  • Difficulty: Moderate

Upgrade or replace the SuperDrive (requires a slim drive).

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Edit Step 1 Battery  ¶ 

  • Use your fingers to push both battery release tabs away from the battery, and lift the battery out of the computer.

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Edit Step 2 Memory Door  ¶ 

  • Remove the three identical Phillips screws from the memory door.

  • Make sure to record which sets of screws came from where. This will help when re-assembling.

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Lift the memory door up enough to get a grip on it, and slide it toward you, pulling it away from the casing.

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Edit Step 4 Upper Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the two Phillips screws in the battery compartment near the latch.

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 6 screws:

    • Two 10 mm T6 Torx screws on either side of the RAM slot.

    • Four 14.5 mm Phillips screws along the hinge.

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Remove the four Phillips screws on the port side of the computer.

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Rotate the computer 90 degrees and remove the two Phillips screws from the rear of the computer.

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Rotate the computer 90 degrees again and remove the four Phillips screws from the side of the computer.

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Do not yank the upper case off quickly. The case is attached to the logic board via a ribbon cable.

  • Lift up at the rear of the case and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case. This stage can be quite tricky. Over the DVD reader are 4 tabs set back which pull out vertically.

  • Note that the two small tongues on the left hand front of the upper case may bend while you remove the upper case. When re-installing, you may need to bend them back to fit in the grooves in the lower case.

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the trackpad and keyboard ribbon cable from the logic board, removing tape as necessary.

  • Remove the upper case.

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Edit Step 11 Optical Drive  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the orange SuperDrive ribbon cable from the logic board, removing tape as necessary.

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 3 screws:

    • Two 3.3 mm silver Phillips screws on either side of the SuperDrive.

    • One 4.8 mm black Phillips screw at the top right corner of the drive.

    • The 4.8mm screw may be a T6 Torx

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Lift the optical drive up and out of the computer.

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Edit Step 14 Optical Drive Cable  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the orange ribbon cable from the optical drive.

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Edit Step 15 Optical Drive  ¶ 

  • If your new optical drive already has brackets on it, you'll only need to transfer the data cable to your new drive.

  • Remove the two silver Phillips screws securing the mounting bracket to the left side of the optical drive.

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Rotate the drive and remove the two Phillips screws securing the mounting bracket to the rear of the optical drive.

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Rotate the drive and remove the single Phillips screw securing the mounting bracket to the right side of the optical drive.

  • If you purchased an optical drive without mounting brackets, simply transfer the three silver metal brackets and orange ribbon cable to your new optical drive.

  • If you have a CD or any other object jammed in your optical drive, we have an optical drive repair guide.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 device page.

Required Tools

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$9.95 · 32 In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

This worked like a charm (and I bought myself a new toolset that absolutely rocked) Thanks iFixIt folks. I need to make a tiny adjustment somewhere as the eggshell clasp is a bit hard to open now, but that is a small deal compared to the non-functional CD I had.

mattmiszewski, · Reply

After installing an SSD instead of the optical drive, installing Mac OS on it (the SSD) and then booting from the SSD, I can't get the computer to enter sleep mode. When I had the SSD connected (with the same OS installation) to an external USB port I had no trouble putting the beast to sleep (when booting from it)! Any suggestions? Obviously the SSD is now attached via (S)ATA instead of USB. Does it matter?

If I boot from the "original" SATA hard disk sleep mode works fine with the SSD installed (both via USB and in the optical bay)...

Per Lindgren, · Reply

Before beginning, I found some small plastic bags and labeled each of the with the location the screws would come from once removed and the appropriate step number. Once the screws were removed I placed them in the labeled bags and did not have to worry about mixing screws up. Also, provided a good way to insure that no steps were skipped in the reverse process

rpbetancourt, · Reply

If you don't have any plastic bags, you can always print out the photos in black and white as you go, and then tape the screws on to the print outs over the circles that denote the screw positions in the photos. This method helps get every single screw back in it's exact location, even months after a tear down. ;o)

Adam, · Reply

Quote from Adam:

If you don't have any plastic bags, you can always print out the photos in black and white as you go, and then tape the screws on to the print outs over the circles that denote the screw positions in the photos. This method helps get every single screw back in it's exact location, even months after a tear down. ;o)

Thank you very much!

Evgeniy, · Reply

When I did this, I used a empty egg carton to store my screws. I wrote the steps where I removed screens in Sharpie on the bottom of the "egg cup" and then dropped the screws in as I went. Then I just worked backwards to put it all back together.

mark93, · Reply

Quote from rpbetancourt:

Before beginning, I found some small plastic bags and labeled each of the with the location the screws would come from once removed and the appropriate step number. Once the screws were removed I placed them in the labeled bags and did not have to worry about mixing screws up. Also, provided a good way to insure that no steps were skipped in the reverse process

I Generally just use a piece of paper with a rough sketch of the system and locations of the screws with prestik.

Tarn Alcock, · Reply

Getting these screws in and out is difficult because most screwdrivers are longer then the battery compartment is deep and so will be slightly off plumb. When you go to re-assemble the computer, getting these screws to seat is one of the hardest parts of the re-assembly. It's very important to be gentle and not to strip the threads.The screw should tighten and come to a stop after 3-4 turns. If you turn 6 or more turns and don't feel it grab, then back off and try again, making sure that everything is in alignment.It might be easier to start with the left screw, because it is further away from the latch mechanism.

dalphotography, · Reply

A T6 worked but was too small. A T7 was better.

Nelson R Pardee, · Reply

Be careful when reassembling your laptop -- do not put the screw into the DVI port! It will not come out.

Scott Rose, · Reply

by Scott Rose Jan 4 @ 11:12 PM

Be careful when reassembling your laptop -- do not put the screw into the DVI port! It will not come out.

To keep this from possibly happening, I placed 2 pieces of tape over the DVI connector pin holes.

rpbetancourt, · Reply

Be careful in step 4, these two screws are shorter than the four screws in step 6, dont mix them up!

brendantully1, · Reply

If you still have the DVI to VGA adapter that came with the computer plug it in to the plug and screw it tight, that way you will not put one of the screws into the holes.

netdude21, · Reply

there are 2 push buttons inside the harddrive bay which release the front of the upper case.

mforgie, · Reply

this is an annoyingly difficult step. it is VERY hard to get the front part off without bending the unit improperly. Would be great to know where the two "push buttons" are.

lessig, · Reply

On my MacBook, there were no pushbuttons. Rather, two mini phillips screws were holding the case on inside the battery bay. The two screws are under two ball-bearing-like nubs that help hold the battery in the bay.

khank, · Reply

Quote from khank:

On my MacBook, there were no pushbuttons. Rather, two mini phillips screws were holding the case on inside the battery bay. The two screws are under two ball-bearing-like nubs that help hold the battery in the bay.

I just realized these were the screws mentioned in Step 4, which I missed originally. Did you miss step 4 too?

khank, · Reply

I discovered that I didn't need to take the case off completely. I just propped it up with a small screwdriver and was able to remove the airport card and replace it with a new one fairly easily.

schemedream, · Reply

That's not so difficult step. you shoul know , that front edge of upper case holding only on 5 plastic "locks" 4 in front edge upon the superdrive, 5-th near the "sleep light, open laptop button"

just lift up the rear edges of upper case to 35-40 degrees

Hofmann78rus, · Reply

[I d just say carefule on the prising open - these are fragile screw tab fixings joined to the uppercase. - Patience and gentle pressure and all works fine .

daithid, · Reply

Getting the top case off, especially right above the optical drive slot was a @#$%^. !^$%. Was finally able to work it loose by twisting in the budger. Be careful.

Archhawk, · Reply

the two push pins are in the battery area behind the front of the open button

mykeylynx, · Reply

Quote from Archhawk:

Getting the top case off, especially right above the optical drive slot was a @#$%^. !^$%. Was finally able to work it loose by twisting in the budger. Be careful.

I agree! It was really very difficult just ROCKING the front panel. NOT done! Do not pry it from the front of the unit, as the soft metal edge gets scratched! I turned the unit upside down and slowly pried the keyboard apart left-to-right from INSIDE the Battery Bay, slipping a plastic pen to keep it apart. When I finally looked at what was holding it down, it was these 5 grey&black plastic SNAP slots, and 4 of them were behind the DVD slot.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=40...

Mario da Silva, · Reply

I found I had to push with a little force from underneath the battery compartment where the touch pad is located to free the bottom edge of the case. The case came away with two loud snaps. At first I thought I'd broken something, but then it appeared that it was just the plastic above the slot loading super drive that was held in very tightly and needed some encouragement.

Joshua May, · Reply

There are several clips along the front of the case in front of trackpad and above the optical drive slot. These need to be gently levered open (eg using an old credit card), and clipped closed on reassembly. Start at the left hand side. Take care not to bend the aluminum top. When reassembling, check the top panel for kinks/bends and straighten by hand before reassembly.

cheongi, · Reply

The way I did it was to lift the back to about 45% (the ribbon cable is long enough) and then used the spudger to force the 4 snap tabs in front of the optical drive to separate, working from the right edge towards the middle (they will 'pop'), ending with the last tab to the left of the sleep light.

Hilal Malawi, · Reply

not necessary. just attach a string around both the screen and the keyboard. it will stay in a steady position..

-urdus.

urdus, · Reply

I found that the ribbon connecting the top part of the case to the logic board wasn't long enough and the connector did have to be disconnected.

Joshua May,

Quote from urdus:

not necessary. just attach a string around both the screen and the keyboard. it will stay in a steady position..

-urdus.

Excellent tip! Thanks, this allowed me to skip steps 10 and 11 (any unnecessary tinkering with the logic board is recommended).

rpbetancourt, · Reply

On my model (core duo 1.8 ghz Macbook Pro) that "One 4.8mm black Phillips screw at the top right corner of the drive" is a silver Torx T6 screw.

holmesworcester, · Reply

Mine was a silver T6 Torx also.

Melissa Godsey,

My machine had a grey Torx here.

dave,

There was one extra silver Torx T6 screw, at the top left of the drive, immediately left of the ribbon cable connection, that I had to remove in order to extract the Optical drive. It is visible in the picture for Step 12.

pensivemonk, · Reply

On my MBP 15.4" santa rosa (July 2007), the bottom left 3.3mm screw is smaller than this and doesn't fit a PH000 screw driver.

Greg K, · Reply

On my A1150, the black screw wasn't- it is a silver Torx 6

stevesontheroad, · Reply

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