MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Logic Board Replacement

  • Author: iRobot
  • Difficulty: Difficult

This motherboard includes all ports on the right side.

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Edit Step 1 Battery  ¶ 

  • Use your fingers to push both battery release tabs away from the battery, and lift the battery out of the computer.

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Edit Step 2 Memory Door  ¶ 

  • Remove the three identical Phillips screws from the memory door.

  • Make sure to record which sets of screws came from where. This will help when re-assembling.

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Lift the memory door up enough to get a grip on it, and slide it toward you, pulling it away from the casing.

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Edit Step 4 Upper Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the two Phillips screws in the battery compartment near the latch.

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 6 screws:

    • Two 10 mm T6 Torx screws on either side of the RAM slot.

    • Four 14.5 mm Phillips screws along the hinge.

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Remove the four Phillips screws on the port side of the computer.

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Rotate the computer 90 degrees and remove the two Phillips screws from the rear of the computer.

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Rotate the computer 90 degrees again and remove the four Phillips screws from the side of the computer.

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Do not yank the upper case off quickly. The case is attached to the logic board via a ribbon cable.

  • Lift up at the rear of the case and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case. This stage can be quite tricky. Over the DVD reader are 4 tabs set back which pull out vertically.

  • Note that the two small tongues on the left hand front of the upper case may bend while you remove the upper case. When re-installing, you may need to bend them back to fit in the grooves in the lower case.

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the trackpad and keyboard ribbon cable from the logic board, removing tape as necessary.

  • Remove the upper case.

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Edit Step 11 Optical Drive  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the orange SuperDrive ribbon cable from the logic board, removing tape as necessary.

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 3 screws:

    • Two 3.3 mm silver Phillips screws on either side of the SuperDrive.

    • One 4.8 mm black Phillips screw at the top right corner of the drive.

    • The 4.8mm screw may be a T6 Torx

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Lift the optical drive up and out of the computer.

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Edit Step 14 Logic Board  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the hard drive and ExpressCard connectors from the left side of the logic board.

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the eight indicated connectors from the logic board, removing tape as necessary.

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Use a spudger to flip up the brown plastic flap securing the left ambient light sensor cable to the logic board.

  • Slide the left ambient light sensor cable to the left and out of its connector.

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Remove the silver T6 Torx screw securing the ground loop on the display data cable to the casing.

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Remove the single silver T6 Torx screw securing the clear plastic shield over the right ambient light sensor.

  • Lift the clear plastic shield off the right ambient light sensor.

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Peel up the orange Kapton tape securing the right thermal sensor cable to the logic board.

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 16 screws, moving cables as necessary:

    • One 4.4 mm black Phillips screw to the right of the RAM slot.

    • Nine 4.7 mm silver T6 Torx screws securing the logic board to the lower case.

    • One 6.2 mm black T6 Torx screw on the right side of the left fan.

    • Five 9.4 mm silver T6 Torx screws securing the left and right fans.

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Move the display data cable to the right, removing tape as necessary.

  • Peel up and remove the orange foil shield near the right speaker.

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Rotate the speaker clockwise approximately 30 degrees until it comes free from the logic board.

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Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Peel up the gray and black speaker wires from the top of the logic board, removing tape as necessary.

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Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Peel up the iSight and inverter board cables from above the left fan.

  • Hold the logic board down with one hand and use your other hand to lift the left fan up from its housing. There is a piece of black tape securing the fan to the heat sink. Carefully peel this tape up from the heat sink as you lift the fan up.

  • Place the fan above the Airport card. It is not necessary to entirely remove the fan from the computer.

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Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • It may be helpful to hold the heat sink in place while removing the right fan.

  • Lift the right fan up while carefully peeling up the tape which secures the fan to the heat sink.

  • Remove the right fan from the computer.

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Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Lift up the left side of the logic board and disconnect the multi-colored power cable from the bottom of the board.

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Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • The logic board is still attached to the computer by one more cable, so don't lift the logic board too far out of the computer yet.

  • Grasp the logic board at the left side and at the thin section, and rotate the logic board out of the lower case.

  • To properly reassemble your MacBook Pro, you'll have to clean off and replace the old thermal compound from the chips on the back of the logic board. Use our Applying Thermal Paste Guide to prepare the processor and heat sink surfaces.

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Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the right thermal sensor cable from the bottom of the logic board near the DVI port.

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Edit Step 29 Logic Board  ¶ 

  • Release the tabs on each side of the RAM chip at the same time. These tabs lock the chip in place and releasing them will cause the chip to "pop" up.

  • Pull the chip directly out from its connector.

  • If there are two RAM chips installed, repeat the above procedure for the second chip.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 device page.

Required Tools

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$9.95 · 32 In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Recommended Tools

Universal Drive Adapter

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iFixit Lock Pick Set

$29.95 · 50+ In stock

Inspection Scope

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Frictionless Ratchet

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Portable Anti-Static Mat

$34.95 · 43 In stock

Comments Comments are onturn off

Buying the part, it says that thermal paste is needed for installation. Where?

bjornarstople, · Reply

Before beginning, I found some small plastic bags and labeled each of the with the location the screws would come from once removed and the appropriate step number. Once the screws were removed I placed them in the labeled bags and did not have to worry about mixing screws up. Also, provided a good way to insure that no steps were skipped in the reverse process

rpbetancourt, · Reply

If you don't have any plastic bags, you can always print out the photos in black and white as you go, and then tape the screws on to the print outs over the circles that denote the screw positions in the photos. This method helps get every single screw back in it's exact location, even months after a tear down. ;o)

Adam, · Reply

Quote from Adam:

If you don't have any plastic bags, you can always print out the photos in black and white as you go, and then tape the screws on to the print outs over the circles that denote the screw positions in the photos. This method helps get every single screw back in it's exact location, even months after a tear down. ;o)

Thank you very much!

Evgeniy, · Reply

When I did this, I used a empty egg carton to store my screws. I wrote the steps where I removed screens in Sharpie on the bottom of the "egg cup" and then dropped the screws in as I went. Then I just worked backwards to put it all back together.

mark93, · Reply

Quote from rpbetancourt:

Before beginning, I found some small plastic bags and labeled each of the with the location the screws would come from once removed and the appropriate step number. Once the screws were removed I placed them in the labeled bags and did not have to worry about mixing screws up. Also, provided a good way to insure that no steps were skipped in the reverse process

I Generally just use a piece of paper with a rough sketch of the system and locations of the screws with prestik.

Tarn Alcock, · Reply

Getting these screws in and out is difficult because most screwdrivers are longer then the battery compartment is deep and so will be slightly off plumb. When you go to re-assemble the computer, getting these screws to seat is one of the hardest parts of the re-assembly. It's very important to be gentle and not to strip the threads.The screw should tighten and come to a stop after 3-4 turns. If you turn 6 or more turns and don't feel it grab, then back off and try again, making sure that everything is in alignment.It might be easier to start with the left screw, because it is further away from the latch mechanism.

dalphotography, · Reply

A T6 worked but was too small. A T7 was better.

Nelson R Pardee, · Reply

Be careful when reassembling your laptop -- do not put the screw into the DVI port! It will not come out.

Scott Rose, · Reply

by Scott Rose Jan 4 @ 11:12 PM

Be careful when reassembling your laptop -- do not put the screw into the DVI port! It will not come out.

To keep this from possibly happening, I placed 2 pieces of tape over the DVI connector pin holes.

rpbetancourt, · Reply

Be careful in step 4, these two screws are shorter than the four screws in step 6, dont mix them up!

brendantully1, · Reply

If you still have the DVI to VGA adapter that came with the computer plug it in to the plug and screw it tight, that way you will not put one of the screws into the holes.

netdude21, · Reply

there are 2 push buttons inside the harddrive bay which release the front of the upper case.

mforgie, · Reply

this is an annoyingly difficult step. it is VERY hard to get the front part off without bending the unit improperly. Would be great to know where the two "push buttons" are.

lessig, · Reply

On my MacBook, there were no pushbuttons. Rather, two mini phillips screws were holding the case on inside the battery bay. The two screws are under two ball-bearing-like nubs that help hold the battery in the bay.

khank, · Reply

Quote from khank:

On my MacBook, there were no pushbuttons. Rather, two mini phillips screws were holding the case on inside the battery bay. The two screws are under two ball-bearing-like nubs that help hold the battery in the bay.

I just realized these were the screws mentioned in Step 4, which I missed originally. Did you miss step 4 too?

khank, · Reply

I discovered that I didn't need to take the case off completely. I just propped it up with a small screwdriver and was able to remove the airport card and replace it with a new one fairly easily.

schemedream, · Reply

That's not so difficult step. you shoul know , that front edge of upper case holding only on 5 plastic "locks" 4 in front edge upon the superdrive, 5-th near the "sleep light, open laptop button"

just lift up the rear edges of upper case to 35-40 degrees

Hofmann78rus, · Reply

[I d just say carefule on the prising open - these are fragile screw tab fixings joined to the uppercase. - Patience and gentle pressure and all works fine .

daithid, · Reply

Getting the top case off, especially right above the optical drive slot was a @#$%^. !^$%. Was finally able to work it loose by twisting in the budger. Be careful.

Archhawk, · Reply

the two push pins are in the battery area behind the front of the open button

mykeylynx, · Reply

Quote from Archhawk:

Getting the top case off, especially right above the optical drive slot was a @#$%^. !^$%. Was finally able to work it loose by twisting in the budger. Be careful.

I agree! It was really very difficult just ROCKING the front panel. NOT done! Do not pry it from the front of the unit, as the soft metal edge gets scratched! I turned the unit upside down and slowly pried the keyboard apart left-to-right from INSIDE the Battery Bay, slipping a plastic pen to keep it apart. When I finally looked at what was holding it down, it was these 5 grey&black plastic SNAP slots, and 4 of them were behind the DVD slot.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=40...

Mario da Silva, · Reply

I found I had to push with a little force from underneath the battery compartment where the touch pad is located to free the bottom edge of the case. The case came away with two loud snaps. At first I thought I'd broken something, but then it appeared that it was just the plastic above the slot loading super drive that was held in very tightly and needed some encouragement.

Joshua May, · Reply

There are several clips along the front of the case in front of trackpad and above the optical drive slot. These need to be gently levered open (eg using an old credit card), and clipped closed on reassembly. Start at the left hand side. Take care not to bend the aluminum top. When reassembling, check the top panel for kinks/bends and straighten by hand before reassembly.

cheongi, · Reply

The way I did it was to lift the back to about 45% (the ribbon cable is long enough) and then used the spudger to force the 4 snap tabs in front of the optical drive to separate, working from the right edge towards the middle (they will 'pop'), ending with the last tab to the left of the sleep light.

Hilal Malawi, · Reply

not necessary. just attach a string around both the screen and the keyboard. it will stay in a steady position..

-urdus.

urdus, · Reply

I found that the ribbon connecting the top part of the case to the logic board wasn't long enough and the connector did have to be disconnected.

Joshua May,

Quote from urdus:

not necessary. just attach a string around both the screen and the keyboard. it will stay in a steady position..

-urdus.

Excellent tip! Thanks, this allowed me to skip steps 10 and 11 (any unnecessary tinkering with the logic board is recommended).

rpbetancourt, · Reply

On my model (core duo 1.8 ghz Macbook Pro) that "One 4.8mm black Phillips screw at the top right corner of the drive" is a silver Torx T6 screw.

holmesworcester, · Reply

Mine was a silver T6 Torx also.

Melissa Godsey,

My machine had a grey Torx here.

dave,

There was one extra silver Torx T6 screw, at the top left of the drive, immediately left of the ribbon cable connection, that I had to remove in order to extract the Optical drive. It is visible in the picture for Step 12.

pensivemonk, · Reply

On my MBP 15.4" santa rosa (July 2007), the bottom left 3.3mm screw is smaller than this and doesn't fit a PH000 screw driver.

Greg K, · Reply

On my A1150, the black screw wasn't- it is a silver Torx 6

stevesontheroad, · Reply

When reassembling, make sure all cables are above the logic board before you start putting the screws back in, especially the battery to logic board connector.

Steve S, · Reply

And, even MORE especially, the heat sensor cable that attaches to the tiny white connector near the middle-left of the logic board. If you don't you have to take everything apart again when you get back to the step where you reattach all the cables.

Steve S, · Reply

When reassembling, the left fan goes under the black tab on the left speaker.

Steve S, · Reply

Step 25: now is a good time to retrieve and put somewhere safe the right ambient light-sensor cover.

edgroupinc, · Reply

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