MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Left I/O Board Cable Replacement

  • Author: iRobot
  • Difficulty: Difficult

This connects the left I/O board to the logic board.

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Edit Step 1 Battery  ¶ 

  • Use your fingers to push both battery release tabs away from the battery, and lift the battery out of the computer.

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Edit Step 2 Memory Door  ¶ 

  • Remove the three identical Phillips screws from the memory door.

  • Make sure to record which sets of screws came from where. This will help when re-assembling.

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Lift the memory door up enough to get a grip on it, and slide it toward you, pulling it away from the casing.

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Edit Step 4 Upper Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the two Phillips screws in the battery compartment near the latch.

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 6 screws:

    • Two 10 mm T6 Torx screws on either side of the RAM slot.

    • Four 14.5 mm Phillips screws along the hinge.

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Remove the four Phillips screws on the port side of the computer.

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Rotate the computer 90 degrees and remove the two Phillips screws from the rear of the computer.

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Rotate the computer 90 degrees again and remove the four Phillips screws from the side of the computer.

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Do not yank the upper case off quickly. The case is attached to the logic board via a ribbon cable.

  • Lift up at the rear of the case and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case. This stage can be quite tricky. Over the DVD reader are 4 tabs set back which pull out vertically.

  • Note that the two small tongues on the left hand front of the upper case may bend while you remove the upper case. When re-installing, you may need to bend them back to fit in the grooves in the lower case.

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the trackpad and keyboard ribbon cable from the logic board, removing tape as necessary.

  • Remove the upper case.

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Edit Step 11 Left Fan  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the iSight, inverter, and left fan cables from the logic board.

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Use a spudger to flip up the brown plastic flap securing the left ambient light sensor cable to the logic board.

  • Slide the left ambient light sensor cable to the left and out of its connector.

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Peel up the left ambient light sensor cable from above the left fan.

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Peel up the iSight and inverter cables from above the left fan, removing tape as necessary.

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 3 screws:

    • One 6.2 mm black T6 Torx screw from the right side of the fan.

    • Two 9.4 mm silver T6 Torx screws from the left side of the fan.

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Lift the lift fan up and carefully peel up the tape securing the fan to the heat sink as you go.

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Edit Step 17 Left I/O Board Cable  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the hard drive and ExpressCard connectors from the left side of the logic board.

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the two antenna cables attached to the Airport Extreme card.

  • The white antenna cable connects to the left side of the Airport Extreme card.

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Remove the single silver Phillips screw located just above the Airport Extreme card.

  • Lift the small silver metal retaining bracket up and out of the computer.

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Peel back the orange tape on the right side of the Airport Extreme card.

  • Lift the Airport Extreme card up and slide it out of its connector.

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Peel up the orange hard drive cable from above the ExpressCard cage.

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the speaker cable from the corner of the left I/O board.

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Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Remove the single black T6 Torx screw securing the left speaker.

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Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Lift the left speaker assembly out of its housing and place it in the area previously occupied by the left fan.

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Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the large multi-colored power cable from the left I/O board.

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Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 5 screws/standoffs:

    • Four black T6 Torx screws securing the left I/O board to the lower case.

    • One 4 mm standoff located between the audio jacks.

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Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • Lift up the right side of the left I/O board and slide it out of the computer.

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Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Turn the left I/O board over and disconnect the short left I/O board cable.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 device page.

Required Tools

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$9.95 · 25 In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

Before beginning, I found some small plastic bags and labeled each of the with the location the screws would come from once removed and the appropriate step number. Once the screws were removed I placed them in the labeled bags and did not have to worry about mixing screws up. Also, provided a good way to insure that no steps were skipped in the reverse process

rpbetancourt, · Reply

If you don't have any plastic bags, you can always print out the photos in black and white as you go, and then tape the screws on to the print outs over the circles that denote the screw positions in the photos. This method helps get every single screw back in it's exact location, even months after a tear down. ;o)

Adam, · Reply

Quote from Adam:

If you don't have any plastic bags, you can always print out the photos in black and white as you go, and then tape the screws on to the print outs over the circles that denote the screw positions in the photos. This method helps get every single screw back in it's exact location, even months after a tear down. ;o)

Thank you very much!

Evgeniy, · Reply

When I did this, I used a empty egg carton to store my screws. I wrote the steps where I removed screens in Sharpie on the bottom of the "egg cup" and then dropped the screws in as I went. Then I just worked backwards to put it all back together.

mark93, · Reply

Quote from rpbetancourt:

Before beginning, I found some small plastic bags and labeled each of the with the location the screws would come from once removed and the appropriate step number. Once the screws were removed I placed them in the labeled bags and did not have to worry about mixing screws up. Also, provided a good way to insure that no steps were skipped in the reverse process

I Generally just use a piece of paper with a rough sketch of the system and locations of the screws with prestik.

Tarn Alcock, · Reply

Getting these screws in and out is difficult because most screwdrivers are longer then the battery compartment is deep and so will be slightly off plumb. When you go to re-assemble the computer, getting these screws to seat is one of the hardest parts of the re-assembly. It's very important to be gentle and not to strip the threads.The screw should tighten and come to a stop after 3-4 turns. If you turn 6 or more turns and don't feel it grab, then back off and try again, making sure that everything is in alignment.It might be easier to start with the left screw, because it is further away from the latch mechanism.

dalphotography, · Reply

A T6 worked but was too small. A T7 was better.

Nelson R Pardee, · Reply

Be careful when reassembling your laptop -- do not put the screw into the DVI port! It will not come out.

Scott Rose, · Reply

by Scott Rose Jan 4 @ 11:12 PM

Be careful when reassembling your laptop -- do not put the screw into the DVI port! It will not come out.

To keep this from possibly happening, I placed 2 pieces of tape over the DVI connector pin holes.

rpbetancourt, · Reply

Be careful in step 4, these two screws are shorter than the four screws in step 6, dont mix them up!

brendantully1, · Reply

If you still have the DVI to VGA adapter that came with the computer plug it in to the plug and screw it tight, that way you will not put one of the screws into the holes.

netdude21, · Reply

there are 2 push buttons inside the harddrive bay which release the front of the upper case.

mforgie, · Reply

this is an annoyingly difficult step. it is VERY hard to get the front part off without bending the unit improperly. Would be great to know where the two "push buttons" are.

lessig, · Reply

On my MacBook, there were no pushbuttons. Rather, two mini phillips screws were holding the case on inside the battery bay. The two screws are under two ball-bearing-like nubs that help hold the battery in the bay.

khank, · Reply

Quote from khank:

On my MacBook, there were no pushbuttons. Rather, two mini phillips screws were holding the case on inside the battery bay. The two screws are under two ball-bearing-like nubs that help hold the battery in the bay.

I just realized these were the screws mentioned in Step 4, which I missed originally. Did you miss step 4 too?

khank, · Reply

I discovered that I didn't need to take the case off completely. I just propped it up with a small screwdriver and was able to remove the airport card and replace it with a new one fairly easily.

schemedream, · Reply

That's not so difficult step. you shoul know , that front edge of upper case holding only on 5 plastic "locks" 4 in front edge upon the superdrive, 5-th near the "sleep light, open laptop button"

just lift up the rear edges of upper case to 35-40 degrees

Hofmann78rus, · Reply

[I d just say carefule on the prising open - these are fragile screw tab fixings joined to the uppercase. - Patience and gentle pressure and all works fine .

daithid, · Reply

Getting the top case off, especially right above the optical drive slot was a @#$%^. !^$%. Was finally able to work it loose by twisting in the budger. Be careful.

Archhawk, · Reply

the two push pins are in the battery area behind the front of the open button

mykeylynx, · Reply

Quote from Archhawk:

Getting the top case off, especially right above the optical drive slot was a @#$%^. !^$%. Was finally able to work it loose by twisting in the budger. Be careful.

I agree! It was really very difficult just ROCKING the front panel. NOT done! Do not pry it from the front of the unit, as the soft metal edge gets scratched! I turned the unit upside down and slowly pried the keyboard apart left-to-right from INSIDE the Battery Bay, slipping a plastic pen to keep it apart. When I finally looked at what was holding it down, it was these 5 grey&black plastic SNAP slots, and 4 of them were behind the DVD slot.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=40...

Mario da Silva, · Reply

I found I had to push with a little force from underneath the battery compartment where the touch pad is located to free the bottom edge of the case. The case came away with two loud snaps. At first I thought I'd broken something, but then it appeared that it was just the plastic above the slot loading super drive that was held in very tightly and needed some encouragement.

Joshua May, · Reply

There are several clips along the front of the case in front of trackpad and above the optical drive slot. These need to be gently levered open (eg using an old credit card), and clipped closed on reassembly. Start at the left hand side. Take care not to bend the aluminum top. When reassembling, check the top panel for kinks/bends and straighten by hand before reassembly.

cheongi, · Reply

The way I did it was to lift the back to about 45% (the ribbon cable is long enough) and then used the spudger to force the 4 snap tabs in front of the optical drive to separate, working from the right edge towards the middle (they will 'pop'), ending with the last tab to the left of the sleep light.

Hilal Malawi, · Reply

not necessary. just attach a string around both the screen and the keyboard. it will stay in a steady position..

-urdus.

urdus, · Reply

I found that the ribbon connecting the top part of the case to the logic board wasn't long enough and the connector did have to be disconnected.

Joshua May,

Quote from urdus:

not necessary. just attach a string around both the screen and the keyboard. it will stay in a steady position..

-urdus.

Excellent tip! Thanks, this allowed me to skip steps 10 and 11 (any unnecessary tinkering with the logic board is recommended).

rpbetancourt, · Reply

My MacBook Pro Model (15'', 2.16GHz Core 2 Duo from 2006) had slightly different connectors. I had ordered a fan replacement as seen above (with the white connector), but my old fan had a smaller black one that snaps onto the logic board. Since the rest of the fan unit was exactly the same, I de-soldered the 4-wire cable from my old fan, and used it to replace the connector cable on the new one. The color coding is slightly different, but if you keep the connector wires in the same order, everything works fine.

Armin, · Reply

While the other cables end in a plug, the end of the light sensor cable will appear bare after you remove it. In the down position, the brown plastic flap very gently clamps the end of the cable in place.

PaKo, · Reply

This is the most difficult step of the whole procedure. You really have to lift up the brown flap from the left side.

Ute Schueller, · Reply

That step 12 gave me a hard attack. I had not read properly and I thought that the cable for the light ambient was just coming off like the other three connectors to disconnect. When I was left with the bare cable without the connector at the end, I #!?*@*! a bit but then realized that it was a lift tab that which, when pushed down, put the pressure of on the cable to stay in place. So all was fine, I was able to replace the left fan (had to replace the right fan about a year ago). The ambient light cable was fine as the keyboard glowed properly.

viaughislain, · Reply

Note here that the the Torx screw near the left speaker assembly passes through the eyelet for the speaker first then through the eyeleft for the cooling fan. When putting in a replacement fan ensure that the fan eyelet is underneath the speaker eyelet.

cgollner, · Reply

The tape you peel up may no longer be sticky enough when putting it down on a replacement fan. I used some electrical tape cut to size to redo the seal.

cgollner, · Reply

The ring at the top which holds the top screw appeared to be underneath the same ring for the speaker and this made it really tricky to remove the fan.

You really have to get the right angle. Persevere as it will come away with some gentle encouragement.

Be sure to transfer the black tape to the new unit or else replace it with electrical tape.

Joshua May, · Reply

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