MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Models A1226 and A1260 Middle Thermal Sensor Replacement

This detects the internal temperature of your machine for heat management.

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Edit Step 1 Battery  ¶ 

  • Use your fingers to push both battery release tabs away from the battery, and lift the battery out of the computer.

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Edit Step 2 RAM Shield  ¶ 

  • Remove the three identical 2mm PH000 Phillips screws from the memory door.

  • Lift the memory door up enough to grip it and slide it toward you, pulling it away from the casing.

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Edit Step 3 Upper Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 2.8 mm Phillips screws in the battery compartment near the latch.

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 6 screws:

    • Two 10 mm T6 Torx screws on either side of the RAM slot.

    • Four 14.5 mm Phillips screws along the hinge.

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Remove the four 3.2 mm PH00 Phillips screws on the port side of the computer.

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Rotate the computer 90 degrees and remove the two 3.2 mm Phillips screws from the rear of the computer.

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Rotate the computer 90 degrees again and remove the four 3.2 mm Phillips screws from the side of the computer.

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Do not yank the upper case off quickly. The case is attached to the logic board via a ribbon cable.

  • Lift up at the rear of the case and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case.

  • There are four plastic clips above the DVD slot, and another above and to the left of the IR sensor. These clips can be very difficult to disengage without prying. They can also be difficult to re-engage during reassembly.

  • Reassembly Tip: Press down firmly on the tip of the top case above the location of each clip until you hear a snap to reseat them in their slots.

  • Reassembly Tip: The two center DVD clips will rarely snap back into place properly without help, and downward pressure will instead simply deform the frame around the DVD slot. Support the frame by inserting a plastic spudger into the DVD slot directly under the clip location until it is snug, then press down until you hear the snap.

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the trackpad and keyboard ribbon cable from the logic board, removing tape as necessary.

  • Note: It is possible to replace the hard drive without disconnecting the keyboard from the chassis, but it will need to be held upright to keep it out of the way, while still allowing you both hands to work on the drive removal. Be careful when removing the keyboard-trackpad ribbon cable to ensure that the rear of the upper case is disengaged from the area near the hinge. It is easy to accidentally bend the screw receivers on either side of the keyboard.

    • Remove the upper case.

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Edit Step 10 Optical Drive  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the orange SuperDrive ribbon cable from the logic board, removing tape as necessary.

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 4 screws:

    • Two 3.3 mm silver Phillips screws on either side of the SuperDrive.

    • One 4.7 mm silver T6 Torx screw from the top left corner of the drive.

    • One 6.2 mm black Phillips screw at the top right corner of the drive.

  • Lift the optical drive up and out of the computer.

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Edit Step 12 Logic Board  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the hard drive and ExpressCard connectors from the left side of the logic board.

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the iSight and display data cables from the logic board by sliding the cables out of their connectors, removing tape as necessary.

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the eight indicated connectors by placing a spudger beneath each one and lifting up.

  • Use care when disconnecting some of the smaller connectors. A forceful prod with the spudger may accidentally break them off the logic board.

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Remove the foam bumper from the top of the right hinge of the display.

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Remove the silver 9.5 mm T6 Torx screw securing the ground loop in the display data cable to the casing.

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Remove the single black 6 mm T6 Torx screw securing the upper portion of the logic board to the upper case.

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Peel up the orange Kapton tape securing the right thermal sensor cable to the logic board.

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 15 screws:

    • One 4.4 mm black Phillips screw to the right of the ram slot.

    • Eight 4.7 mm silver T6 Torx screws securing the logic board to the lower case.

    • One 6.2 mm black T6 Torx screw on the right side of the left fan.

    • Five 9.4 mm silver T6 Torx screws securing the left and right fans.

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Hold the logic board down with one hand and use your other hand to lift the left fan up from its housing. There is a piece of black tape securing the left fan to the heat sink. Carefully peel this tape up from the heat sink as you lift the left fan up.

  • Place the left fan above the Airport card. It is not necessary to remove the fan from the computer entirely.

  • Lift the right fan up and carefully peel up the tape securing the fan to the heat sink as you go.

  • Remove the right fan from the computer.

  • If you leave the upper 5 orange screws on, the heatsink/pipes come out effortlessly, still mounted onto the main board. That way the thermal connections are retained.

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Lift up the left side of the logic board and disconnect the gray and black power cable from the bottom of the board.

    • Pull the power cable connector parallel to the face of the logic board.

  • Grasp the logic board at the left side and at the thin section, and rotate the logic board out of the lower case.

  • To properly reassemble your MacBook Pro, you'll have to clean off and replace the old thermal compound from the chips on the back of the logic board. Use our Applying Thermal Paste Guide to prepare the processor and heat sink surfaces.

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Edit Step 22 Middle Thermal Sensor  ¶ 

  • Peel back the orange Kapton tape covering the middle thermal sensor.

  • Use a spudger to pry the middle thermal sensor off the heat sink.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Models A1226 and A1260 device page.

Required Tools

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$9.95 · 30 In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Recommended Tools

Universal Drive Adapter

$29.95 · 50+ In stock

iFixit Lock Pick Set

$29.95 · 50+ In stock

Inspection Scope

$39.95 · 50+ In stock

Frictionless Ratchet

$24.95 · 50+ In stock

Portable Anti-Static Mat

$34.95 · 42 In stock

Comments Comments are onturn off

Before start, make a clone of your old HD into the new one, if you don't want to initiate a fresh copy. (Carbon Copy software is good).

ColmillodeChile, · Reply

Besides using WD 500GB models, are the WD 640GB and WD 750GB (the 9.5mm thickness model) good to go for? I am still considering as I have heard from other websites on the computer does not draw enough power to power up the 640 and 750 as it has the clicking sound and the rainbow keeps appearing. Anyone has install one before yet?

Please advice. Appreciated! Thanks a million to all the Mac gurus out there!

Danny Lim,

Quote from ColmillodeChile:

Before start, make a clone of your old HD into the new one, if you don't want to initiate a fresh copy. (Carbon Copy software is good).

What is this about removing the PRAM battery causing a reinitialization of the HDD? For serious?

Adrian, · Reply

Quote from Adrianthomaspre:

What is this about removing the PRAM battery causing a reinitialization of the HDD? For serious?

Wait, I misunderstood you. I thought the comment was directed at the PRAM battery removal page. Silly me.

Nevermind. Yes, it is always a good idea to backup one's data before doing stuff like this. I never do, and have never had any problems, but it's still a good idea.

Adrian, · Reply

The two screws removed in step 3 should not be mixed with screws in steps 5 through 7. Though similar, they are actually slightly shorter and have a bigger head. If you put the longer screws back in here when reassembling, the button to unlatch the top will not work properly.

Doug, · Reply

Quote from Doug:

The two screws removed in step 3 should not be mixed with screws in steps 5 through 7. Though similar, they are actually slightly shorter and have a bigger head. If you put the longer screws back in here when reassembling, the button to unlatch the top will not work properly.

I think you may have commented on the wrong page. This page only has 3 steps, and the screws are removed in step 2, not 3.

(http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Repair/Insta...)

Don, · Reply

I'm not sure how the user notes get attached to the various procedures here, but my comment does seem to show up properly when viewing the steps for Hard Drive Replacement. However, the number of the step may be off if viewed as part of another procedure.

Quote from Don:

I think you may have commented on the wrong page. This page only has 3 steps, and the screws are removed in step 2, not 3.

(http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Repair/Insta...)

Doug, · Reply

These screws are different from the rest, they should be kept separate from the others.

Maarten Van Coile, · Reply

Replacing RAM on an A1226: The instructions said Phillips #00, but the screwdriver that fit the RAM Shield screws for me was a Phillips #0.

dlyons, · Reply

These screws are different from the rest, they should be kept separate from the others.

Maarten Van Coile, · Reply

Keep these two Philips screws separate. The screws are approximately 0.5mm shorter in length. When using one or two of the other longer screws in the battery compartment when reassembling, the lid will not open because the screw(s) do yam the lid button.

Peter van Nes, · Reply

I had a logic board replaced by Apple (bad nVidia GPU), and believe it or not the Apple tech mixed up the screws. My latch did not work as good until I discovered and swapped the misplaced screws.

madmaxmedia, · Reply

If you are using a muffin pan to keep removed parts separate (a method I recommend highly), note that Steps 5, 6, and 7 involve removing the same size screw—and thus you can put them all in the same pile. This is unlike just about every other part you will remove during this procedure.

Matt McCaffrey, · Reply

If you are a mac newbie like me take care when you reassemble not to insert a screw in the DVI display port screw holes (shame). I cannot manage to get it out anymore.

tai manu, · Reply

I did the same thing once, and eventually got it out. Try tweezers, a screwdriver, magnets, holding the MBP on its side so gravity is working with you, etc. Eventually the little bugger will come out, you just have to keep working at it.

madmaxmedia,

It would be a good idea to put some sticky tape on those two DVI display port holes, so that you never make the mistake to insert (when reassemble) any of the screws!

genik, · Reply

The clips above the DVD slot (below the deck palm rest) are an absolute bear. They're hard to get released, and even harder to get back locked when you reassemble. (I've read to tilt the deck toward you when reassembling, inserting the front edge first, and press about an inch back from the edge to get all the front clips locked first before lowering the rest (back) of the deck.) No success for me yet, best of luck.

sonofray, · Reply

I thought these two videos did an excellent job of showing the technique of removing and replacing the drive.

MacBook Pro/PowerBook Keyboard Replacement (Part 1 of 3):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUonF9OSv...

MacBook Pro/PowerBook Keyboard Replacement (Part 3 of 3):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JWeFXWXpp...

After watching that, I had the keyboard replaced in 2 minutes.

Chris,

the technique you describe of putting the front down first, is exactly what I did and it worked well

dillonsavard,

Those clips on the front edge are very challenging. I have a set of nylon pry tools that are for taking apart car dashboards without scratching the vinyl or plastic. I was able to get a long one in from the side and twist it which freed the clips without damaging the plastic on the upper case or the aluminum on the lower case.

Putting it back together presented another challenge. When I first re-assembled it I think I pushed too hard over the DVD slot and accidentally bent the metal down. I was able to bend it back up using a thicker part of those same nylon pry tools, and then i was able to get it snapped back down successfully. Had I known this would happen, I would have just put the nylon tool in the slot to reinforce the metal as I was snapping the case back down.

Nick, · Reply

As everyone has said, the front clips by the DVD can be really tight. Use the spudger to pry the top and bottom halves apart. Slow work it in from one side to separate the top and bottom.

When reassembling the case, work the front clips by the DVD drive back in first. Once you slide them back in, the rest of the case fits easily.

Ted Wise, · Reply

i've used an old atm card, it works fine.

rotarypot, · Reply

I had a lot of trouble with getting those clips to lock in place again when reassembling. The way I eventually did it was to wedge something into the front of the CD/DVD slot so that I wouldn't warp the laptop casing. I used the end of a pen; when wedged in the tip of the pen was the right height to not support the casing above and below the CD/DVD slot and not allow it to warp.

I simply ensured the pen was aligned with one particular clip, lifted the laptop slightly, and squeezed the top and bottom edge of the laptop casing very firmly at that point. Each clip clicked in quite easily doing it this way. Just remember to move the pen (or whatever you are using) along to whichever clip you are clicking in.

David, · Reply

You're on the right track David. But what works really good is something that gets more surface area contact than the pen--I carefully insert a stack of 3" square post-it notes about 3/8" into the slot. And because they're stacked, you can easily add/subtract post-its to get as tight a fit as possible. Then, assuming you have everything lined up, use quite a bit of downward pressure. You should hear a few snaps as the clips reseat.

Quote from David:

I had a lot of trouble with getting those clips to lock in place again when reassembling. The way I eventually did it was to wedge something into the front of the CD/DVD slot so that I wouldn't warp the laptop casing. I used the end of a pen; when wedged in the tip of the pen was the right height to not support the casing above and below the CD/DVD slot and not allow it to warp.

I simply ensured the pen was aligned with one particular clip, lifted the laptop slightly, and squeezed the top and bottom edge of the laptop casing very firmly at that point. Each clip clicked in quite easily doing it this way. Just remember to move the pen (or whatever you are using) along to whichever clip you are clicking in.

John Kassler Niemann, · Reply

John, I didn't think of that. But yeah you are right, it would give it a lot more support.

David, · Reply

I have none of the problems above just was very careful, but inserting the palm rest in first does most of the work , gently does it looking at the alinement of the clips as you go straight in she goes!

swissgrip, · Reply

I would agree with everyone that the clips above the DVD drive are very temperamental. They came off easily for me but were a pain getting to clip back in place correctly.

Make sure you have the front clipped on securely before screwing the case back together otherwise the lid will not close properly.

Nicolas, · Reply

I have taken apart quite a few laptops but this is my first Mac. This confirms my statements, to anyone that will listen, that these are the most "exquisite" machines ever produced. I just performed these HDD Replacement steps and with appropriate fear and trepidation popped the clips off. It would have been very helpful if someone had mentioned that they come straight up. I wasn't sure so I wiggled and (carefully) pried with the spudger until one of them went "POP". The credit card idea was helpful but my card was pretty soft so I didn't dare use it with too much force. When I got the top cover loose I just leaned it back against the screen so as not to take a chance on damaging the cable. Reassembly was according to the notes, but again the spudger was perfect if inserted into the drive slot (careful on the felt!) to support the base of the clips. Thanks to all for the notes. BTW; Prayer helps!

mikedotten331, · Reply

There is a fifth plastic clip between the IR sensor and the screw hole. (ie. 1 cm left of the IR sensor)

Maarten Van Coile, · Reply

On the top of the case mark the center of each of the four clips that are over the CD slot and the one clip to the left of the latch with a pencil. When re-installing the top case apply pressure over the clip to the left of the latch until you hear a snap. For the four clips over the CD slot, upend the entire case. Then insert the flat end of the spudger into the CD slot under the center of each clip. Apply pressure from the top of the case while providing support with the spudger in the CD slot until the clip snaps in. This will minimize the chances of bending the CD slot which would prevent CDs from ejecting.

danno, · Reply

Take care reassembling new the DVD drive. It's easy to bend the top piece of metal down (the one that engages the clips) and your DVD can get stuck occasional ejecting. Very annoying. Maybe give it a little prophylactic bend upward. I placed a blunt letter opener in the slot and torqued it, while applying downward pressure from the top deck... This allowed the clips to engage nicely without bending this piece down.

davidkkim, · Reply

I use the iSesamo tool to loose the clips, its a very good tool for this and many other things (I don´t work for iSesamo or iFixit hehe).

araujogac, · Reply

i've used both of my inch nails, it works fine as well. no trouble to report.

cnoblemasson, · Reply

i used a pry tool i had left over from replacing the screen on my iphone, any flat stiff item, like a credit card would work. watch the youtube video linked above, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUonF9OSv..., skip ahead in the video to 4:57 where you see her use a pry tool. I had no problem separating and reassembling this section. Only issue i had was the two screws in the battery area. Only one of them would grab, so I left the other one out.

owenmhv, · Reply

Here is an additional video showing how to remove the cables for both the left and right fans. At time 2:00 in the video he starts to work on the left fan. This video will help prevent you from attempting to detach the cables incorrectly.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=apn3j3mAR...

owenmhv, · Reply

I've opened these up many, many times, and by far the easiest method I have found to disengage the front clips is as follows:

Lift up the top case by the rear corners near the hinge, keep lifting so the top case is tilting towards you. You will feel some resistance, but keep lifting and you will hear the clips disengage with a 'snap'. Doing it this way should not bend the top case metal or loosen the spacing between the top case metal and plastic trim. The clips will not break, they will still engage when you put the top case back on.

It basically takes me 5 or 10 seconds to take off the top case now, and the case goes back on nice and tight as before.

YMMV and all that, but that's my experience.

madmaxmedia, · Reply

If you does not have the spudger, use the Dremel to file a wooden piece

(Chinese stick maybe) to transform in a spatula. Works fine for me

ColmillodeChile, · Reply

If you don't have the magic "spudger," try using a plastic (eating) knife.

jpkjpkjpk, · Reply

I read that you can actually also use the corner of a credit card. I didn't have a spudger and this worked perfectly for me. If you hold the card quite close to the corner and it has just the right amount of flex.

David, · Reply

You may be able to unplug the ribbon connector by lifting each end of the tape.

MrSafety, · Reply

Where can I get the cable from step 9 above?

just broke it!

Derry Manley, · Reply

That cable is attached to the upper case. It can be found here for the A1226 and here for the A1260.

Andrew Bookholt,

To unplug the cable, pull the black connector straight up from the logic board.

Robert MacLeay, · Reply

These are instructions for the right Fan. Step 9 mentions the hard drive not the right fan.

karen, · Reply

I didn`t need to unplugged the cable to change the right fan. As Karen wrote above, it is for a fan to change not necessary.

cnoblemasson, · Reply

I chose not to disconnect this ribbon cable. I used a chopstick to prop open the front panel; just gently place in lower right corned of case and upper right corner inside the top panel. Saves the risk of disconnecting.

jimmora, · Reply

i managed to break the connectors for the left side ambient light sensor and the right side thermal sensor while attempting this step, i was trying to remove the logic board in order to attempt to reflow the gfx chip as my laptop has been dead with that issue for a year or two, will it run when i put it back together without these?

Jack Davidson, · Reply

This is a torc6 screw not philips

james2m, · Reply

right thermal sensor? I think it should be the Middle Thermal Sensor??

PC Doc, · Reply

The orange screws actually just secure the heat synch to the board, not the board to the case. You can leave them in as mentioned in the next step.

Dave Bates, · Reply

The power cable slides out in the direction of the cable.

chaphoto, · Reply

I think here we are talking about Middle Thermal Sensor, not Left one...

PC Doc, · Reply

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