MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement
Replace the Upper Case in your MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012.
- Author: Walter Galan
- Difficulty: Difficult
Use this guide to replace the upper case.
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- Lower Case 3 steps
- Battery Connector 5 steps
- Battery Contact Board 1 step
- I/O Board Data Cable 3 steps
- Right Speaker 4 steps
- Left Speaker 4 steps
- SSD Assembly 2 steps
- Battery 16 steps
- Logic Board Assembly 13 steps
- I/O Board 3 steps
- Headphone Jack Assembly 2 steps
- Display Assembly 6 steps
- Trackpad 4 steps
- Microphone Assembly 7 steps
- Upper Case 1 step
- Heat gun or hair dryer
- MacBook Pro and Air 5-Point Pentalobe Screwdriver
- Phillips #000 Screwdriver
- Phillips #00 Screwdriver
- Plastic Opening Tools
- T5 Torx Screwdriver
- T6 Torx Screwdriver
- T7 Torx Screwdriver
- T8 Torx Screwdriver
Carefully lift the battery connector board up off the logic board.
It is recommended to bend the battery cables just slightly, to keep the board suspended up above the logic board and out of the way.
Do not fold the board completely over, or crease the cables, as this may damage the battery.
Grasp the battery contact board with tweezers.
Lift the battery contact board up off the logic board and remove it.
Removing this board will ensure that the battery remains disconnected throughout your repair, preventing your computer from accidentally powering on. It's also a good idea to take it out so it doesn't fall out unexpectedly.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right side of the I/O board data cable connector up off its socket on the I/O board.
When prying the I/O board data cable connector from its socket, make sure to pry the connector itself and not the socket. Prying the socket may cause irreversible damage to the I/O board.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the headphone jack cable connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.
Gently bend the headphone jack cable to 90° up from the logic board.
Bending the headphone jack cable will allow you to disconnect the left speaker cable connector without having the headphone jack cable in the way.
Gently push the edges of the display data cable connector away from its socket on the logic board.
It is recommended "walk" the connector out of its socket. Simply push the top and bottom corners of the connector and carefully "walk it out" of its socket.
Pull, but do not remove, the display data cable connector out of its socket and carefully move it out of the way.
Carefully lift the logic board assembly from its left side and work it out of the upper case, minding any cables and the I/O ports that may get caught during removal.
Pull the right I/O port side of the logic board away from the side of the upper case and remove the logic board assembly.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry and disconnect the three antenna cable connectors from the AirPort board.
The three cables are coded with black sleeves of different lengths. During reassembly:
Connect the long-sleeved cable to the center socket.
The short-sleeved cable connects next to the screw.
The remaining cable has no sleeve, and connects in the last empty socket, next to the fan.
Open the MacBook Pro approximately 110 degrees, and place it sideways on the table, as shown.
While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the remaining T8 Torx screw from the lower display bracket.
Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.
Remove the last remaining T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.
For this step, it is recommended to use a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the adhesive securing the microphone assembly to the upper case. You may be able to remove it without doing so, but will risk damaging the microphone cable.
With the heat gun set to low, heat the microphone assembly to loosen the adhesive attaching it to the upper case.
Be very careful not to overheat the microphones or upper case. Keep in mind that the plastic keyboard is on the other side—too much heat in a single place can melt keys.
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