MacBook Core 2 Duo Logic Board Replacement

  • Author: iRobot
  • Difficulty: Difficult

This motherboard includes all ports on the left side.

Image #1

Edit Step 1 Battery  ¶ 

  • Use a coin to rotate the battery-locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.

Image #1

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Lift the battery out of the computer.

Image #1

Edit Step 3 Memory Cover  ¶ 

  • Unscrew the three evenly-spaced Phillips screws from along the rear wall of the battery compartment.

  • The screws are captive to the metal memory cover so you cannot lose them.

Image #1

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Rotate the L-shaped memory cover so it clears the battery compartment opening and lift it up and out of the computer.

Image #1

Edit Step 5 Upper Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 3 screws:

    • One 11 mm Phillips#00 in the middle of the case. (Head: 5mm dia. x .75mm thick)

    • Two 14.5 mm Phillips #00 (Head: 5mm dia. x .75mm thick)

  • If the screws stick in the case, you can use a magnetized screwdriver to draw them out.

  • The shorter of the three screws goes in the middle.

Image #1

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 3 screws from the rear wall of the battery compartment:

    • One 3 mm Phillips #0. (Head: 2.75 mm. dia.)

    • Two 4 mm Phillips #0 on the either side. (Head: 2.75mm dia.)

  • Take extra caution with these screws as they can strip easily.

Image #1

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Remove the two Phillips screws from either side of the right wall of the battery compartment (not the ones closest to the battery connector).

    • Two 6.25 mm Phillips #000. (Head: 4 mm. dia. x .5mm thick)

Image #1

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Remove the four indicated Phillips screws from the front wall of the battery compartment. When working from the left, remove the 2nd, 4th, 7th and 9th screw.

    • Four 3.25 mm Phillips #000. (Head: 4 mm. dia. x 4mm thick)

Image #1

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 4 screws from the back of the computer:

  • The longer screws go on the inside, shorter screws on the outside.

    • Two 11 mm Phillips #00, with Shank (2.2mm dia. x 2 mm len.) (Head: 3.2 mm. dia. x .5mm thick)

    • Two 7.25 mm Phillips #00, with Shank (2mm dia. x 3.75 mm len.) (Head: 3.2 mm. dia. x .5mm thick)

Image #1

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Remove the two Phillips screws from the optical drive side of the computer.

    • Two 5.2 mm Phillips #00, with Shank (2.3mm dia. x 3.5 mm len.) (Head: 3.2 mm. dia. x .5mm thick)

  • It is not necessary to remove the similar screws on the other side of the computer.

Image #1

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • There's a trackpad and keyboard ribbon connecting the upper case to the logic board, so don't pull the upper case off entirely just yet.

  • Starting near the display and working around to the front of the computer, pry up on the upper case. A plastic opening tool or a medium hard guitar pick may help you to do this.

  • The upper case is likely to stick at the connection above the optical drive. If this is the case, first free all other sides, then proceed to pull upward on the upper case from either side of the optical drive opening.

  • If you stand the base on end to get a better look you may displace the total of 4 grey plastic clips that hold the keyboard in place. Don't panic. They slide into slots at the top right-most edge near the CD drive.

Image #1

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • While holding up the upper case, pull up the black tab of the silver cable away from its connector.

  • If there is no black tab, you can also use a spudger to gently pry the connector from its housing. This connector is tall, so be sure to pry straight up.

  • If you happen to break your upper case cable when removing the upper case, we stock the cable individually and we have a guide that makes replacing it easy.

  • While you have the upper case removed, you may want to take the opportunity to remove dust, hair, etc. It's best to use a can of compressed air, though if you use a brush, make sure that its bristles are made of a material (usually animal hair) that doesn't generate static electricity, which can destroy electronics.

  • Upon reassembly, there are 4 grey plastic clips on the optical drive side of the keyboard (refer to second picture). They must be installed in their slots for the keyboard to snap in properly.

Image #1

Edit Step 13 Left I/O Frame  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the MagSafe board cable from the logic board by pulling the snap-in connector out (to the right).

Image #1

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 9 mm Phillips screw securing the left speaker to the lower case.

  • Lift the left speaker out of its housing and set it to the side.

Image #1

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 3 screws:

    • Two 9 mm Phillips from either end of the left I/O frame.

    • One 7.5 mm Phillips from the middle of the left I/O frame.

  • Remove the small black plastic spacer at the bottom of the left I/O frame.

Image #1

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Lift the left I/O frame up and out of the computer. Pay attention to the thin metal EMI fingers, as they may catch as you remove the left I/O frame.

  • The speaker wire may be hooked onto the I/O frame. Lift it out of the catch and don't forget to put it back when you are reversing the procedure.

  • The part of the shield you are removing is attached to other part by little hooks underneath that are hard to see until you have it apart. They're located over the headphone jack and the firewire port

Image #1

Edit Step 17 Logic Board  ¶ 

  • Peel up the foil tape between the fan and the optical drive.

Image #1

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Use a spudger to move the gray display data and black speaker cables to the right. This will reveal a silver screw securing the fan housing to the lower case.

Image #1

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the orange optical drive ribbon cable from the logic board.

Image #1

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Peel up the small black rubber cover from the right side of the heat sink.

Image #1

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the black fan connector and two temperature sensor connectors from the logic board.

  • If you have a MacBook Core 2 Duo Santa Rosa/Penryn/Early 2009, there is only one temperature sensor.

  • The heat sink in early 2009 MacBooks may look slightly different.

Image #1

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 6 screws:

    • One 3 mm Phillips on the right side of the fan.

    • One 6 mm Phillips on the left side of the fan.

    • Four 9 mm Phillips securing the heat sink to the lower case.

Image #1

Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Hold the heat sink with one hand and the fan with your other hand, and lift the heat sink and fan assembly out of the computer. The fan is attached to the heat sink only with a strip of black felt tape, so be sure to remove both parts as a unit.

  • If you need to mount the heat sink back into the laptop, we have a thermal paste guide that makes replacing the thermal compound easy.

Image #1

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the three antenna cables from the Airport card, and the black inverter cable from the logic board.

  • If you have a MacBook Core 2 Duo Santa Rosa/Penryn/Early 2009, there are only two antenna cables and the black inverter cable is in a different location.

Image #1

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 2 screws from the Airport card:

    • One 3 mm Phillips from the left side.

    • One 8 mm (with a large 2 mm head) Phillips from the right side.

Image #1

Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Grasp the Airport card at its top and slide it toward the screen and out of the computer.

Image #1

Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • Use a spudger to disconnect the left speaker connector from the logic board.

  • Lift the left speaker out of the computer.

Image #1

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the display data cable by pulling up on the black plastic pull-tab. If there is no pull-tab on the top of the connector, it may be helpful to use a spudger to disconnect this connector.

Image #1

Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the newly-revealed hard drive cable from the logic board.

Image #1

Edit Step 30  ¶ 

  • Use a spudger to disconnect the speaker connector and bluetooth connector from the logic board.

  • If you have a MacBook Core 2 Duo Santa Rosa/Penryn, disconnect the PRAM battery cable.

Image #1

Edit Step 31  ¶ 

  • Use a spudger to carefully disconnect the microphone cable from the logic board. You'll want to work from side to side, and slowly wiggle the connector out of its socket.

Image #1

Edit Step 32  ¶ 

  • Deroute the microphone cable from the silver metal clip just above the right RAM slot.

  • This metal clip may not be present on some Santa Rosa/Penryn models.

Image #1

Edit Step 33  ¶ 

  • Use a spudger to carefully pry the battery connector up and disconnect it from the logic board.

Image #1

Edit Step 34  ¶ 

  • Remove the three 3 mm Phillips screws securing the logic board to the lower case.

Image #1

Edit Step 35  ¶ 

  • Lift the logic board up from the right side, and slide it up and out of the computer.

Image #1

Edit Step 36 Logic Board  ¶ 

  • Turn the logic board over.

  • Peel the PRAM battery up from its location on the logic board, removing tape as necessary.

  • If you have a Macbook Core 2 Duo Santa Rosa/Penryn, the PRAM battery is not located on the logic board. Please skip this step.

Image #1

Edit Step 37  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the PRAM battery cable from the logic board and remove the PRAM battery from the computer.

  • If you have a Macbook Core 2 Duo Santa Rosa/Penryn, the PRAM battery is not located on the logic board. Please skip this step.

Image #1

Edit Step 38  ¶ 

  • Pull back on the metal lever and slide the RAM chip out of the logic board.

  • Repeat this process for the other RAM chip if there are two RAM chips currently installed in your computer.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the MacBook Core 2 Duo device page.

Required Tools

Phillips #0 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Coin

$2.95 · 1 In stock

Phillips #000 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Recommended Tools

Universal Drive Adapter

$29.95 · 50+ In stock

iFixit Lock Pick Set

$29.95 · 50+ In stock

Inspection Scope

$39.95 · 50+ In stock

Frictionless Ratchet

$24.95 · 50+ In stock

Portable Anti-Static Mat

$34.95 · 43 In stock

Comments Comments are onturn off

Thanks so much for this guide! My mac wouldn't turn on after spilling some wine on it a few days before. After I followed these steps and let the parts lay out to dry overnight (after cleaning everything with rubbing alcohol), I put it back together and it turned on!! Thank you a million times!

tracy, · Reply

Double-sides sticky tape is very useful (to keep the screws together) on top of numbered post-it notes for the steps.

Joe, · Reply

The shop wanted over $700 ($600 for parts, $90+ for labor) to fix it, which I definitely wasn't going to pay, so I decided to fix it myself. I spent right at $150 for a new logic board, magsafe board, and RAM upgrades and delved into the depths of the Macbook. I followed every step of the guide closely and she started right up after reassembly. Great guide, thanks!

Landen, · Reply

I used this guide plus the Thermal Paste guide to resolve my MacBook RRS (Random Restart Syndrome) issue. My MacBook would randomly restart after the fan kicked into high speed. When I removed the heatsink I discovered an an irregular patch completely free of thermal compound of about 15-20% of the area on one of the processors. I removed and re-applied the thermal paste. I ran a memory test utility overnight that previously caused a restart after a couple of hours, and the probelm seems to be solved. TIme will tell.

ServiceDocs, · Reply

This guide was seriously helpful, so thanks for putting this together. I found a thick ribbon of dust/muck whatever between the fan outlet and the exhaust port that was almost as dense as felt. My fan must have been fighting like crazy trying to pass air through that blockage, which explains the high temps and excessive fan noise. Wish I'd done this sooner...

Thanks again!

skraggle, · Reply

Just R&R'ed the fan in my black MacBook Core 2 Duo tonight. Took me 30 minutes tops and I was taking my time. These instructions are SPOT ON! Great job ifixit.com! Two thumbs up!

Follow the instructions exactly as you see and have a piece of paper taped to the table next to you that you can outline all the screws you took out so you know where they go back in. I expected this to be a LOT harder, but it was one of the simplest repairs I've ever done to ANY computer!

mikeutter, · Reply

Piece of cake--or should I say gum. If you don't have a magnetized screwdriver, load up a stick of gum and chomp on it until it's needed then use a bit to retain screw on the driver. And if you should tear the black tape, or if the silver tape won't stick any more, just bubblegum it together. The instructions were clear and correct, which made for a very simple repair.

Mike Woodruff, · Reply

My battery does not pop out when after step 1. Any idea why, and how do fix it?

Calvin, · Reply

Quote from Calvin:

My battery does not pop out when after step 1. Any idea why, and how do fix it?

Will not drop out even if you turn it upside down?

skraggle, · Reply

Somehow, now my isight camera doesn't work and the light is always on. Cannot figure out what I did wrong.

josefsalyer, · Reply

Somehow the plastic disc with the slot for a coin got dislodged from the case, and I can't seem to get it open now. Any tips/links on how to open this without the aid of the plastic disc?

Peter Wood, · Reply

i broke my disc off as well. I used two toothpicks to rotate the thing. hi tech.

howard bederman,

please pay attention that screws are native to metal pieces otherwise you are going to be a stupid like me trying to unscrew unsuccessfully until I reread the guide

manochu, · Reply

Lay the screws out in a ”timeline” like a circle, Then when you reassemble just start from the end of the “timeline”

decristoforo, · Reply

I couldn't get the top two 11mm screws to come out, even with a magnetized driver. When I tried to keep unscrewing them, they clicked like they were spring mounted, and I didn't have any trouble leaving them in and continuing on.

ryan64, · Reply

Quote from ryan64:

I couldn't get the top two 11mm screws to come out, even with a magnetized driver. When I tried to keep unscrewing them, they clicked like they were spring mounted, and I didn't have any trouble leaving them in and continuing on.

I use a strong magnet to pull the screws out of their socket.

Alaerus, · Reply

The top two screws didn't seem to want to come out, and I saw no reason they had to, so I left them there, put a little piece of tape over each so they wouldn't fall out.

HandyMac, · Reply

You need to replace the shorter middle screw first, otherwise it won't tighten later since it won't quite reach the bottom.

colmcostelloe, · Reply

for me this was the hardest part especially the two 14.5mm that dint want to come out. keep turning the screw and slightly pressing the case down, once the screw is a little use try using finger, screw and a non metallic point to try to push them out. they arent tight but they are very hard to unscrew i almost gave up, but believe me they come out with patience

manochu, · Reply

I also did not find that I needed to remove the two 14.5 mm screws. I unscrewed them but they seemed designed to stay with the case and I found it did not seem to affect anything to just let them stay there.

Alice, · Reply

On this step, I encountered a problem. The middle screw was screwed in very very tightly. As a result, I ended up stripping the screw despite being very careful. I tried to use a wire cutter to remove the screw, but that did not work. I actually ended up using the wirecutter to cut the bracket off, leaving the screw screwed in. This did not affect anything. I am typing off of my replace macbook top case right now.

The point is, BE CAREFUL! but if something does go wrong, don't fret. There are solutions.

LaNoobieFixer, · Reply

Quote from LaNoobieFixer:

On this step, I encountered a problem. The middle screw was screwed in very very tightly. As a result, I ended up stripping the screw despite being very careful. I tried to use a wire cutter to remove the screw, but that did not work. I actually ended up using the wirecutter to cut the bracket off, leaving the screw screwed in. This did not affect anything. I am typing off of my replace macbook top case right now.

The point is, BE CAREFUL! but if something does go wrong, don't fret. There are solutions.

get the thing on tv that removes stripped screws next time

Nick, · Reply

On a Macbook I just tore down, I found that in this step, the 4mm screw was on the left, not the right. I thought maybe someone else had it apart before and accidentally switched them so in staying true to these instructions I tried to reassemble with the 4mm screw on the right. I found it would not go all the way in. I ended up putting it back together with the 2-3mm screws on the right and the 1-4mm screw on the left.

scottgriz, · Reply

I didn't look closely at these screws when I took it apart, but when I went to put it back together (two weeks later) I found I had two longer (4mm?) screws, and one short one. So I put the longer ones in the two end spots, the short one in the middle; they all seemed to go in okay. (Maybe the screws got changed around the last time the cracked top case was replaced, when the MB was in the Apple shop under warranty last year.)

HandyMac, · Reply

Me too. I had two longer 4mm screws here, and one 3mm screw. And I didn't pay attention to what holes each screw came out of. I put them back in a random order and it seems fine.

Thomas,

My early 2008 MacBook was the same. 2 x 4mm in the outer and 1 x 3mm in the centre.

Ernie K,

You need to replace the shorter middle screw first, otherwise it won't tighten later.

colmcostelloe, · Reply

I needed a tweezers here. These screws are tiny!

If you lose one you may have to remove the RAM (by pulling the appropriate lever) and gently slide out the screw.

colmcostelloe, · Reply

I couldn't pull over the two 3 mm Phillips on the step 6, how could you've done it?

Eliotus, · Reply

To confirm what HandyMac and colmcostelloe found, some MacBooks have one 3mm and two 4mm screws in the rear wall of the battery compartment. On the one I worked on, the shorter 3mm screw came from the middle hole.

BeatJunkie, · Reply

please note the position of the screws because when you are reinstalling them you might get confuse. this ones go below or under (sorry English inst my first language). There are two screw holes this steps are for the ones below.

manochu, · Reply

Quote from BeatJunkie:

To confirm what HandyMac and colmcostelloe found, some MacBooks have one 3mm and two 4mm screws in the rear wall of the battery compartment. On the one I worked on, the shorter 3mm screw came from the middle hole.

Thanks Beat Junkie, this was the situation with my Mac 2.13ghz Mid 2009 that I was putting back together. Thanks for the confirmation! (For the 6th step)

Cong Trieu, · Reply

For me (A1181), there were two shorter screws and one longer. The longer went on the left (a shorter screw wouldn't catch). (Not the middle that is currently in the instruction. But that could be model difference.) The middle screw started to strip the head but using a slightly larger phillips allowed me to get it out.

Paul Collins, · Reply

I have two MacBooks, one white and one black and both had two 3mm screws and one 4mm screw, opposite of what was in the main document

doublel, · Reply

In my late 2006 macbook the central screw was longer than the side screws..

Julien Lesage, · Reply

The steps do not tell you what length screw that is needed to be here. What I can tell you that is the screw needs to be 5mm or 6mm, NOT 7.5 or 8mm or 9mm.

Cong Trieu, · Reply

Outer screws (red) are shorter (7mm long), while inner screws (orange) are 11mm.

ptb, · Reply

I found these screws quite loose; upon reassembly, I wanted to torque them but found the case would distort towards the center, so I had to leave them fairly loose

David A, · Reply

There will be 4 grey plastic clips just right of the DVD drive. Note their position as they will fall out in the next steps.

tim7866, · Reply

No such clips found on my early 2008 version.

Ernie K,

Thank you ifixit, it was huge help for me, I did it and everything just works great.....THANK YOU!

Dako, · Reply

As is reported above, there a 4 friction tabs that connect to the keyboard. If they do not stay in place and stick to the keyboard, the keyboard will not go back on. Just remove them and put them in the clips, with the solid clip wall to the outside of the unit, and put the keyboard back on. Do this before reconnecting the keyboard.

David Higgins, · Reply

I had no problem at all in this step, the left side was already unlocked when I open the MacBook, the right side was a little tricky but i was able to pull it out in less than a minute

manochu, · Reply

The front left had an annoying little metal strip between the outside of the case and the tab. It's very easily bent, so the tab was caught on it. I spent a good deal of time trying to push and pull various things (and even just yank the @$!^ thing off), but eventually I found that if you undo the two screws you are told not to in step 7, the battery connector can be pulled up and out, leaving enough horizontal room to pull out the metal strip (with a little bit of coercion). I left it out when I put everything back together.

James Pearson, · Reply

Because this step requires some force, make sure to double check that you got all your screws out. I finally got my gumption up to apply the necessary force required to pull up the upper case, and after 5 minutes of pulling, I look and see that the reason it wasn't coming up because I missed one screw. Ugh.

Also, before you just shove your hands under the upper case, prying about, think twice: I cut my finger pretty bad on a sharp piece of metal.

Thomas, · Reply

When reassembling, take some care to align the tabs on the right hand side next to the optical drive. Rock and slide these tabs into position. Then work from right to left, as the rest of the case is quite easy to put back together.

Andrew Dent, · Reply

I took my mac apart yesterday to clean out the trackpad properly and after getting some 'help' from my grandfather (he lost 2 screws and snapped off a bit of the uppercase but i didn't have the heart to ask him to leave it alone) i tried putting the uppercase back on. it fits perfectly but the middle section closest to the screen appears slightly raised and when i go to screw in the four screws on the exterior of the laptop i can't because the hole is not at all aligned (and two of those four screws are very long). anyone know why this might be? can it be fixed/is it a common problem?

Eliza, · Reply

If the upper case sticks above the optical drive, don't pull straight up, but up and to the left at the same time.

frood, · Reply

The plastic around the edge is very thin and cracks easily, so be gentle while using the opening tool.

Henry S, · Reply

On the right side above the optical drive there are little plastic braces that latch the upper case to the main body. This is the reason why the upper case might stick here. If the above step is not working, also try to gently push the upper case sideways away from the optical drive after freeing all other sides. When reassembling make sure the braces are in their slots of the main body and not attached to the upper case. If you cannot fit the upper case evenly over the optical drive, that's probably why. In this case carefully remove them and slide them back into their slots before lowering the upper case.

Hendryk1982, · Reply

this guide was awesome. this step was easy for the broken macbook i salvaged and noticed because i got a factory replacement keyboard quite recently on my macbook in use, the 4 clips above the optical drive were TIGHT - it took quite a bit of pulling up before it came loose!

Chinarut Ruangchotvit, · Reply

When changing the topcase remember to change the sticker with the serial also! This might be important when further service or bigger repairs by apples service are needed. The serial also helps you with identifying your macbook!

spi, · Reply

The entire connector broke off the logic board when I was disconnecting the keyboard just now. Be extremely careful!

Chris, · Reply

I tried to remove the blacktab from the logic board, however, the black tab tore apart. The logic board is okay but the keyboard connector is torn. It has some silver wires passing through a whit plastic housing. It is the first generation of MacBook Core Duo. Do you think it can be repaired?

Roger, · Reply

I could not get the keyboard off my the body... (black macbook I don't know if that makes any difference). It was stuck bottom left hand corner, so I had to bend whatever was stuck to get access to the logicboard etc... any reason why this is the case??

Takuma, · Reply

not sure if this is the place to ask but my mac. doesn't start properly now it turns on and the little light on the right side turns on but keyboard leds don't and display doesn't either any ideas please?

carlos, · Reply

Great repair guide! Changing the top case was pretty easy and it saved me a lot of money.

Harry, · Reply

it was really easy, i had no experience whatsoever installing or unistalling mac parts (or pc either). it just took me less than 25 minutes, and i just finish and Im typing from my new upper case keyboard.

manochu, · Reply

After a sucessful install of the keyboard, the select (mouse buttun equivalent) was found to not operate consistently. I called support and they are shipping a new one out to me. THIS is why I buy from ifixit - sure I can get a part for less elsewhere - but I would not get the service I get with ifixit - THANKS guys!!!

jgreengold, · Reply

Note - I agree, this was VERY easy - great pictures, perfect explanations...

jgreengold, · Reply

Quote from carlos:

not sure if this is the place to ask but my mac. doesn't start properly now it turns on and the little light on the right side turns on but keyboard leds don't and display doesn't either any ideas please?

Did you ever find an answer for this question? My computer is doing the same thing. Thanks.

E Chambliss, · Reply

Quote from E Chambliss:

Did you ever find an answer for this question? My computer is doing the same thing. Thanks.

no i never did couldn't get help it blows to hear someone else had the same problem...im using a windows(yuk) but im getting a new mac next paycheck. if you figure it out let me know so i can fix my other one and maybe give it to my parents

carlos, · Reply

Quote from carlos:

no i never did couldn't get help it blows to hear someone else had the same problem...im using a windows(yuk) but im getting a new mac next paycheck. if you figure it out let me know so i can fix my other one and maybe give it to my parents

Hello, I'm following this procedure because my MacBook isn't turning on due to a failure in the MagSafe DC In board, it was not charging the battery and therefore no power going in. The case was broken duirng warranty and also the MagSafe power adapter was replaced. Now it is failing again. This is an old late 2006 MacBook. Does your Mac powers on, do you hear the chime sound? or you are stuck with a hardware failure?

Francisco, · Reply

Quote from Francisco:

Hello, I'm following this procedure because my MacBook isn't turning on due to a failure in the MagSafe DC In board, it was not charging the battery and therefore no power going in. The case was broken duirng warranty and also the MagSafe power adapter was replaced. Now it is failing again. This is an old late 2006 MacBook. Does your Mac powers on, do you hear the chime sound? or you are stuck with a hardware failure?

my MacBook charges the battery and powers on i dont hear a chime and it turns on but never starts

carlos, · Reply

Quote from spi:

When changing the topcase remember to change the sticker with the serial also! This might be important when further service or bigger repairs by apples service are needed. The serial also helps you with identifying your MacBook!

How do you do it? I can't get it out

Superb guide thank you guys

eli, · Reply

This takes some nerves if there is no tab, but be confident and just prise the connector straight up.

Andrew Dent, · Reply

Be very careful while you pulling the black tab! It's better to use spudger to pry the connector from it's housing while you gently pulling the black tab.

eaksut, · Reply

On the 2.13ghz MacBooks, there is a 3mm screw holding down the Magsafe connector, when putting it back together make sure this is secured after connecting the magsafe connector to the board, otherwise you'll have a wobbly Magsafe connector.

Cong Trieu, · Reply

The screw at the lower end of the I/O frame may be longer than the one at the top. Use the longer screw at the bottom (with the black plastic spacer).

axel, · Reply

Effectivly, the 7.5 mm is near the speaker and the two 9.5mm next.

Andre Sterpin, · Reply

I have come across different types of temperature sensor connectors! Please help!!

onechrisjones, · Reply

Quote from onechrisjones:

I have come across different types of temperature sensor connectors! Please help!!

help i was trying to desconect the heat sensor and i accidently pull the whole thing off. Can i solder it back or would i need a whole new logic board? Someone please help me with this! thanks

pmora, · Reply

How do the fan connectors on Step 21 work? It appears that the connector has to come up away from the board but the base of the connector isn't attached well to the board so it is very easy to destroy this connector. I've found its not required to disconnect the fans if all you are doing is removing the system board.

tim7866, · Reply

To disconnect the temp sensors, apply a small amount of pressure between the board and the wires being very careful not to apply pressure under the plastic housing that is mounted to the board.

tim7866, · Reply

I'm removing the logic board from a MacBook (13-inch, mid-2009) i.e. Penryn, and at this step there does not seem to be a temperature sensor at all as the photo on this page show for Alternate Layout: Santa Rosa and Penryn. The connector is there on the logic board but there is no cable and not sensor to speak of between the heat sink and the fan, as in other models.

hdh607, · Reply

The illustration shows what is referred to as a 3 wall logic board model 820-1889-A with flat temperature connectors. Be aware that there are 4 wall square block connectors on other models and the two types are not interchangeable even though they both come from model 1181A's. This model (shown) accepts 3 boards. A 1.86 GHZ , a 2.0 GHZ , and a 2.16 GHZ one. The early 2006 model can be different from the late 2006 , early 2007 model so check your board part number and actual image of your replacement if you don't have the serial number.

Dave, · Reply

I can't seem to pull this I have the tab on a grip but I pull up and nothing tried the spudger and still attached. help I don't want to break anything

LORENA C, · Reply

I am having trouble lifting this cable. I pulled in the black tab but nothing tried the spudger and still help me because I don't want to break anything thanks!

LORENA C, · Reply

which mm is the screws?

greets

webmaster, · Reply

On this step beware of the way the three antena cables are when you remove the board. I had a minor problem after having reinstalled my new logic board : the black cable was too short to be pluged back. I assumed that the original order had to be respected but that the antena could work with only two cables out of three. It worked properly.

Ambroise, · Reply

If you find yourself having to bend the logic board to get it out (or back in under the Airport antenna cables), consider loosening the left display hinge to allow more room. Loosen each of the 3 screws on the bracket where the antenna cables come out and you'll have a lot more play.

axel, · Reply

View Statistics:

Today: 30

This Week: 235

This Month: 787

All Time: 142,435