MacBook Core 2 Duo Logic Board Replacement
- Author: iRobot
- Difficulty: Difficult
This motherboard includes all ports on the left side.
Embed this guide
With the HTML code below, you can embed this guide as a small widget on your website.
- Battery 2 steps
- Memory Cover 2 steps
- Upper Case 8 steps
- Left I/O Frame 4 steps
- Logic Board 19 steps
- Logic Board 3 steps
- Arctic Silver ArctiClean
- Arctic Silver Thermal Paste
- Phillips #0 Screwdriver
- Phillips #000 Screwdriver
- Phillips #00 Screwdriver
Relevant Parts (continued)
- MacBook Core 2 Duo 2 GHz (non-Energy Star) Logic Board
- MacBook Core 2 Duo 1.83 GHz Logic Board
- MacBook Core 2 Duo 2 GHz (Energy Star) Logic Board
- MacBook Core 2 Duo 2.16 GHz (non-Energy Star) Logic Board
- MacBook Santa Rosa/Penryn Heat Sink
- MacBook Core 2 Duo 2.16 GHz (Energy Star) Logic Board
- MacBook Core 2 Duo 2.1 GHz Logic Board
- MacBook Core 2 Duo 2.2 GHz Logic Board
- MacBook Core 2 Duo 2.4 GHz Logic Board
- MacBook (Mid 2009) 2.13 GHz Logic Board
Remove the following 3 screws:
One 11 mm Phillips#00 in the middle of the case. (Head: 5mm dia. x .75mm thick)
Two 14.5 mm Phillips #00 (Head: 5mm dia. x .75mm thick)
If the screws stick in the case, you can use a magnetized screwdriver to draw them out.
The shorter of the three screws goes in the middle.
Remove the following 4 screws from the back of the computer:
The longer screws go on the inside, shorter screws on the outside.
Two 11 mm Phillips #00, with Shank (2.2mm dia. x 2 mm len.) (Head: 3.2 mm. dia. x .5mm thick)
Two 7.25 mm Phillips #00, with Shank (2mm dia. x 3.75 mm len.) (Head: 3.2 mm. dia. x .5mm thick)
There's a trackpad and keyboard ribbon connecting the upper case to the logic board, so don't pull the upper case off entirely just yet.
Starting near the display and working around to the front of the computer, pry up on the upper case. A plastic opening tool or a medium hard guitar pick may help you to do this.
The upper case is likely to stick at the connection above the optical drive. If this is the case, first free all other sides, then proceed to pull upward on the upper case from either side of the optical drive opening.
If you stand the base on end to get a better look you may displace the total of 4 grey plastic clips that hold the keyboard in place. Don't panic. They slide into slots at the top right-most edge near the CD drive.
While holding up the upper case, pull up the black tab of the silver cable away from its connector.
If there is no black tab, you can also use a spudger to gently pry the connector from its housing. This connector is tall, so be sure to pry straight up.
While you have the upper case removed, you may want to take the opportunity to remove dust, hair, etc. It's best to use a can of compressed air, though if you use a brush, make sure that its bristles are made of a material (usually animal hair) that doesn't generate static electricity, which can destroy electronics.
Upon reassembly, there are 4 grey plastic clips on the optical drive side of the keyboard (refer to second picture). They must be installed in their slots for the keyboard to snap in properly.
Lift the left I/O frame up and out of the computer. Pay attention to the thin metal EMI fingers, as they may catch as you remove the left I/O frame.
The speaker wire may be hooked onto the I/O frame. Lift it out of the catch and don't forget to put it back when you are reversing the procedure.
The part of the shield you are removing is attached to other part by little hooks underneath that are hard to see until you have it apart. They're located over the headphone jack and the firewire port
Hold the heat sink with one hand and the fan with your other hand, and lift the heat sink and fan assembly out of the computer. The fan is attached to the heat sink only with a strip of black felt tape, so be sure to remove both parts as a unit.
If you need to mount the heat sink back into the laptop, we have a thermal paste guide that makes replacing the thermal compound easy.