Introduction
Use this guide to replace the motherboard in your Kobo Libra Colour eReader.
The charging port is soldered to the motherboard, so you'll need to replace the entire motherboard if you want to replace the port.
After this repair, follow this guide to calibrate your eReader to your replacement motherboard. If you don't, you might experience "ghosting" or visual artifacts of the E ink.
Following this guide will remove your eReader's IP (Ingress Protection) rating, making it susceptible to water damage.
Kobo supports their eReaders with a warranty. If your device is still under warranty, Kobo may be able to help. Before starting a repair, review your warranty information or check support documentation.
What you need
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Unplug all cables and fully shut down your eReader.
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Your screen should be black and say Powered off.
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Flip your eReader over so the screen is facing down.
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Angle an opening pick straight down, and insert its tip under the top right corner of the back cover, near the power button.
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Push downward and pry up with the pick until you feel it slide between one of the clips and the frame.
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Slide the pick toward the bottom right corner to release the clips along the right edge.
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Slide the pick toward the bottom left corner to release the clips along the bottom edge.
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Grip the right edge of the back cover and lift it away from the eReader to release the remaining clips.
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Remove the back cover.
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The coating is brittle and can flake into many small pieces. Heating the coating helps, but working with it is still a time-consuming process.
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Depending on your repair, you might have to remove the coating from ZIF connectors and their cables.
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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector.
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Heat an iOpener and lay it on the digitizer cable ZIF connectors for 90 seconds to soften the coating.
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Use the tip of a spudger to scrape the coating along the ZIF connectors' black locking tabs—enough so you can grab clumps of it with pointed tweezers.
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Use pointed tweezers to peel off the coating around the black locking tabs and their hinges on the ZIF connector.
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Use the point of a spudger to lift up the locking tabs on the ZIF connectors.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the digitizer cable ZIF connectors for 90 seconds to soften the coating.
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Use blunt nose tweezers to pull the cables away from their ZIF connectors slowly and steadily at a level angle to separate the coating.
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Keep pulling on the cables until they're completely disconnected.
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Inspect the ends of the cables and the ZIF connectors for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.
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Peel off the coating, heating the cable and the ZIF connectors when the coating becomes too brittle.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the display cable ZIF connector for 90 seconds to soften the coating.
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Use the tip of a spudger to scrape the coating along the ZIF connector's black locking tab—enough so you can grab clumps of it with pointed tweezers.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger under the middle of the locking tab and lift to unlock it.
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Repeat the previous step for the other corner until the entire cable is disconnected.
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Lift up the cable and peel off any remaining coating holding it to the motherboard.
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Inspect the ends of the cable and the ZIF connectors for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.
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Peel off the coating, heating the cable and the ZIF connector when the coating becomes too brittle.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the interconnect cable's ZIF connector on the motherboard for 90 seconds to soften the coating.
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Scrape off and remove the coating on the interconnect cable ZIF connector located on the motherboard.
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Use the tip of a spudger to lift up the locking tab on the ZIF connector.
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Use tweezers, or your fingers, to grip the blue pull tab on the interconnect cable and disconnect it.
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Inspect the ends of the cable and the ZIF connectors for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.
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Peel off the coating, heating the cable and the ZIF connector when the coating becomes too brittle.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the seven screws securing the motherboard:
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Four 2.4 mm‑long screws
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Three 3.9 mm‑long screws
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Use a spudger to lift up the motherboard enough so you can grip it with your fingers.
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Pull the motherboard toward the opposite side of the tablet to slide it out of its two clips.
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Remove the motherboard.
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Slide the motherboard under its clips before pressing it flat to the frame and reinstalling the screws.
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Follow this guide to update the VCOM number on your tablet to match your screen.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Remember: after repairs, your eReader is no longer IPX8 waterproof.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.
Make sure each of your device's main functions still work, e.g., LED backlight, touch, page-turn buttons, Wi-Fi, etc.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers Community for help.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Remember: after repairs, your eReader is no longer IPX8 waterproof.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.
Make sure each of your device's main functions still work, e.g., LED backlight, touch, page-turn buttons, Wi-Fi, etc.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers Community for help.
