iFixit

Holding the iPad by the top and bottom right corners, rotate the front glass away from the iPad.

Be careful of any adhesive that may still be attached, and use a guitar pick to cut any adhesive that may still be holding the front panel down.

Remove the four 2.0 mm Phillips screws securing the LCD to the rear case.

The front panel ribbon cables are connected beneath the LCD. To access them, you'll need to temporarily flip the LCD over and out of the way.

• Be very careful when moving the LCD, and do not attempt to remove it from the iPad—its display data cable will remain connected while it is rotated over.

Lift the LCD from its long edge closest to the volume buttons and gently flip it out of the rear case—like turning the page in a book.

Set the LCD face down on the front panel.

Use the flat end of a plastic opening tool to flip up the retaining flap on the headphone jack and front-facing camera ribbon cable ZIF socket.

Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

Run a plastic opening tool underneath the headphone jack and front-facing camera cable to free it from the adhesive attaching the cable to the rear panel.

Pull the headphone jack and front-facing camera ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

Remove the two 2.9 mm Phillips screws securing the headphone jack to the rear panel.

Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to peel the tape and the adhesive securing the headphone jack & front camera cables to the rear panel.

Pull the headphone jack away from the top edge of the iPad.

Don't try to remove the assembly just yet. The front camera is still stuck to the rear panel.

Lift the headphone jack & front camera cables slightly to access the microphone connector.

Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to separate the microphone connector from its socket on the headphone jack & front camera cables.