PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1-1.67 GHz

Model A1013, A1052, A1085, or A1107 / 1440x900 screen resolution

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Required Tools

T8 Torx Security Bit Screwdriver

$6.95 · 50+ in stock

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ in stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$4.95 · 50+ in stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$4.95 · 50+ in stock

Plastic Opening Tools

$2.95 · 50+ in stock

Recommended Tools

Home Tech Toolkit

$24.95 · 22 in stock

Sorting Tray

$7.95 · 16 in stock

Anti-Static Wrist Strap

$7.95 · 50+ in stock

Pro Tech Base Toolkit

$59.95 · 50+ in stock

Thirsty Bag

$9.95 · 50+ in stock

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Installing PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1-1.67 GHz Front Display Bezel

Author: Walter Galan
Difficulty: Very difficult

Use this guide to replace a damaged front bezel.

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Aluminum-17"-Screw-Guide.pdf

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Relevant parts

G4 Aluminum 17" Front Display Bezel

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Edit Step 1 — Battery ¶

Orient the computer so that the side with the line of screws on it is away from you.
Use your thumbs to push both battery release tabs away so that the edge of the battery lifts up.
Lift the battery out of the computer.

Edit Step 2 — Upper Case ¶

Remove the three identical Phillips screws from the memory door.

Edit Step 3 ¶

Lift the memory door up enough so that you can get a grip on it, and slide it toward you, pulling it away from the casing.

Edit Step 4 ¶

Release the tabs on each side of the RAM chip at the same time. These tabs lock the chip in place and releasing them will cause the chip to "pop" up.
Pull the chip directly out from its connectors. If there is a second RAM chip installed, pop it out in the same manner.

Edit Step 5 ¶

This is a diagram of the trackpad ribbon clamp connector you will disconnect in the next step.
1) With your fingernails, grasp the locking bar on either side slide it a small amount (about 1/16" or 2 mm) towards the battery.
2) After disengaging the locking bar, slide the cable out of the connector.

Edit Step 6 ¶

For this step, you only need to move the connector about 2 mm. Pulling too hard or too far will damage the connector.
Loosen the trackpad connector by pulling the locking bar toward the battery housing, using the tips of your fingers.
Slide the trackpad cable out of the loosened connector.
When reattaching the trackpad ribbon cable, make sure that the orange cable is slid into the connector above the locking bar.
Note: When reassembling the case, the trackpad cable can get stuck below the slot to the motherboard. It's possible to nudge it out slowly by gently prodding it on either side with a small screwdriver. You don't need to use much force to do this. Eventually it will just pop back out and you can reconnect as per the instructions above. Also, note that the locking bar comes loose so if you see a little piece of plastic lying around when reassembling, that's what it is. :)

Edit Step 7 ¶

Remove the following 10 screws from the bottom case:
- Three 1.7 mm Phillips from the front edge of the battery compartment.
- One 3.9 mm T8 Torx to the right of the memory card.
- One 6.9 mm T8 Torx at the left edge of the memory compartment.
- Three 12.4 mm fully threaded Phillips from the center of the row of screws along the back edge of the case.
- Two 15.1 mm 2.5 mm threaded Phillips, one from either end of the row of screws along the back edge of the case.

Edit Step 8 ¶

Turn the computer over and rotate it so that the DVI port faces you.
Remove the four identical Phillips screws spread along this edge of the case.

Edit Step 9 ¶

Turn the computer 180 degrees so that the power receptacle faces you, and remove the four Phillips screws (identical to those in the last step).

Edit Step 10 ¶

Open the computer and turn it so that the screen faces you.
Pull the upper case off, lifting from the back, and working around the edges.

Edit Step 11 ¶

Use a spudger to loosen the casing if it sticks.
Once the casing is entirely free, lift it off of the computer.

Edit Step 12 — Display ¶

If you are ultimately removing the heat sink & fan assembly, your computer will differ from the images in this section.
Disconnect the inverter cable, the Bluetooth/DC-In cable, and the display data cable from the logic board.

Edit Step 13 ¶

Disconnect the Airport antenna cable at the gold connector, making sure you pull only on the gold metal portion of the connector.

Edit Step 14 ¶

Disconnect the Bluetooth antenna cable from the Bluetooth board.

Edit Step 15 ¶

Remove one T6 Torx screw from the upper, left corner of the left fan, and one from the upper, right corner of the right fan (2 screws total).

Edit Step 16 ¶

From each complete hinge assembly, remove two Torx T6 screws from the outside of each set, leaving two remaining in the middle of each hinge. On each side, the two screws closer to the edge of the computer are shorter than the two screws closer to the center of the computer. Then remove the two inner screws from each hinge assembly. There are 8 screws total.

Edit Step 17 ¶

Lift the screen assembly away from the computer.

Edit Step 18 ¶

When reassembling the display, check to see that the hinges are seated properly before reinstalling the 8 screws of the two hinges. There is a metal phalange on the inside end of each hinge assembly that must be pointed downward and fit into a slot below the inside edge of the hinge. If not, the inside end of each hinge will sit too high and the plastic retaining bracket for the wiring will not sit down properly.

Edit Step 19 — Rear Display Bezel ¶

Remove the single Phillips screw from the lower left and right corners of the display.

Edit Step 20 ¶

The picture at left (rear panel already removed) shows the locations of the metal clips (shown in red) that snap on to the front display bezel. In the next few steps, you will use a small flathead screwdriver to release these clips from a ridge around the perimeter of the front display bezel.
When prying in the following steps, be sure not to damage the antenna cables that run around the perimeter of the front display bezel.

Edit Step 21 ¶

Insert the flat end of a spudger between the front display bezel and the plastic rim attached to the rear bezel near the lower right corner of the display.
Do not try to insert the spudger between the front display bezel and its plastic surround.
While carefully prying the rear display bezel away from the display assembly, use a small flathead screwdriver to pry the small steel clip nearest the bottom right corner of the display away from the edge of the front display bezel.
Repeat the above procedure until you've released all the clips along the right side of the display.

Edit Step 22 ¶

Slightly lift the recently-freed corner of the rear display bezel to separate the clips along the span of the clutch hinges.

Edit Step 23 ¶

Insert the flat end of a spudger between the rear display bezel and the plastic surround of the front display bezel near the lower left corner of the display.
Carefully pry the rear display bezel away from the front display bezel to release a metal clip.

Edit Step 24 ¶

Repeat the previous procedure to release the clips along the left side of the rear display bezel.

Edit Step 25 ¶

Slightly lift the lower edge of the rear display bezel and push it toward the top edge of the display, releasing the clips along the top edge of the rear display bezel.
Remove the rear display bezel and set it aside.

Edit Step 26 — Clutch Hinges ¶

Remove the pieces of tape along the lower edge of the display that are covering the opening of the clutch hinges.

Edit Step 27 ¶

Remove the two 10.3 mm T8 Torx screws securing the left side of the clutch hinges to the front bezel.

Edit Step 28 ¶

Remove the two 10.3 mm T8 Torx screws securing the center of the clutch hinges to the front bezel.

Edit Step 29 ¶

Remove the two 10.3 mm T8 Torx screws securing the right side of the clutch hinges to the front bezel.
Pull the clutch cover away from the positioning posts holding it on the front display bezel.

Edit Step 30 ¶

Use the tip of a spudger to pop the plastic end cap off the left side of the clutch cover.

Edit Step 31 ¶

Remove the display inverter assembly from its recess in the clutch cover.

Edit Step 32 ¶

Use the tip of a spudger to remove the plastic end cap from the right side of the clutch hinges.

Edit Step 33 ¶

Carefully slide the display data cable out of its channel in the clutch hinges.
Repeat this process for the inverter/AirPort cables. Once the clutch hinge assembly is completely free from the display, lift it off the front display bezel.

Edit Step 34 — Inverter and Antenna Cables ¶

Carefully grasp the inverter connector with the ends of your fingertips and pull it straight down.

Edit Step 35 ¶

Peel the protective translucent shield off the antenna board.
If you damage this during disassembly, be sure to tape over any tears or cracks to avoid unintended shorting.

Edit Step 36 ¶

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the the antenna cables straight up off their sockets.

Edit Step 37 ¶

De-route the inverter/antenna cables from the front display bezel.

Edit Step 38 — Display Data Cable ¶

If necessary, remove the piece of tape covering the display data cable connector.

Edit Step 39 ¶

Pull the display data cable connector away from its socket to disconnect it from the LCD.

Edit Step 40 ¶

Remove the single 2.5 mm Phillips screw securing the display data cable to the front display bezel.

Edit Step 41 ¶

Remove the display data cable from the LCD assembly.

Edit Step 42 — Front Display Bezel ¶

If necessary, remove the piece of tape covering the inverter lead.

Edit Step 43 ¶

Remove the four black 3.2 mm Phillips screws from both sides of the display (eight screws total).

Edit Step 44 ¶

Remove the four black 3.2 mm Phillips screws from the top side of the display.

Edit Step 45 ¶

In the following steps, you will use a heat gun to soften the adhesive securing the metal LCD frame to the front display bezel. Heat guns have the capability of producing an extremely hot jet of air, so be sure not to overheat the LCD panel.
With the heat gun set to low, start by heating the front display bezel near the upper left corner of the display panel.

Edit Step 46 ¶

Insert a plastic opening tool between the metal LCD frame and the front bezel.
Be sure you are prying between the metal LCD frame and the front bezel, not between the metal LCD frame and the LCD.
It may be necessary to reheat this area until the adhesive yields enough to insert the edge of a tool.
Use the flat end of a metal spudger to gently pry up the adhesive securing the metal LCD frame to the front bezel, taking special care not to scratch the LCD panel in the process.

Edit Step 47 ¶

While it is still inserted between the metal LCD frame and the front bezel, run the edge of your metal spudger along the top edge of the display to separate the adhesive securing the two pieces together, heating the area you are working on with a heat gun as necessary.
If the adhesive is hard to separate, use a heat gun to lightly heat the area you are working on.

Edit Step 48 ¶

Continue running the edge of your metal spudger between the LCD frame and the front bezel until the right, bottom, and left sides of the LCD are free.

Edit Step 49 ¶

Lift the LCD by its top edge only. Lifting the LCD by its lower edge will damage the backlight cables.
Lift the LCD out of the front display bezel, using your metal spudger to release any adhesive if necessary.

Edit Step 50 ¶

With the LCD partially removed from the front bezel, carefully push the backlight connector through its tunnel in the front bezel.

This guide has been completed 1 time.