Grasp the hard drive assembly and press the release button while lifting its front edge.

Remove the hard drive assembly from the top vent.

Stand the console vertically with the bottom edge facing up.

Insert the flat end of a spudger or the edge of an Xbox 360 opening tool into the small gap at the front edge of the bottom vent.

Pry the front edge of the bottom vent away from the faceplate.

In the next few steps, you will use the tip of a spudger or the finger of an Xbox 360 opening tool to release the clips along the left and right sides of the bottom vent. Their locations are highlighted in red.

You will insert the tool into the holes molded into the white plastic side case pieces.

To release the clips, work from the front edge of the bottom vent.

While slightly lifting the front edge of the bottom vent, use the tip of a spudger to push the clips closest to the front of the bottom vent towards the inside of the console.

Repeat the same process to release the two center clips on the bottom vent.

Use the tip of your spudger to release the clips on the bottom vent nearest the back of the Xbox.

Remove the bottom vent from the 360.

Insert the edge of a spudger between the faceplate and the outer casing near the power button.

Run your spudger along the edge of the faceplate to release the clips securing it to the front of the console.

You may also accomplish this task by using the edge of the Xbox 360 opening tool, but it may scratch the plastic case.

Alternatively, you can use your hands to carefully pull the faceplate away from the Xbox.

Repeat the same motions as previously mentioned to release the left side of the faceplate.

Remove the faceplate from the front face of the console.

Stand the console vertically with the top edge facing up.

The top vent is secured to the console via clips. The first two clips are located underneath the top vent closest to the faceplate, as shown in the pictures.

Insert the flat end of a spudger into the small gaps previously mentioned to release the clips.

You may also use the long finger of an Xbox 360 opening tool to accomplish this task.

In the next few steps, you will use the tip of a spudger or the finger of an Xbox 360 opening tool to release the clips along the left and right sides of the top vent. Their locations are highlighted in red.

To release the clips, work from the middle of the top vent.

While slightly lifting the front edge of the top vent, use the tip of a spudger to push the clips closest to the center of the top vent towards the inside of the console.

Use the tip of your spudger to release the clip on the top vent nearest the back of the Xbox's upper case.

The last clip is hidden underneath the rubber foot nearest the back of the console.

Use the tip of your spudger to release the clip on the top vent nearest the back of the Xbox.

Remove the top vent from the 360.

To continue, you must peel the warranty sticker off the console. Be aware that this will void your console's warranty agreement with Microsoft. Proceed at your own risk.

Carefully peel the warranty sticker off the console.

The upper and lower cases are attached via several latches, located in the front and back of the console. These latches must be disengaged to separate the upper case from the console.

Use the flat end of a spudger to release the following latches:

• Above the front-facing USB ports.
• Beneath the front-facing USB ports.
• Above the Memory Unit slots.

Insert the flat end of a spudger and pry upwards to release the last remaining latch located above the eject button.

Slightly lift the front portion of the lower case to ensure that the latches in the front have been completely released.

The upper and lower cases are held together by seven release latches located on the back of the console. Their locations are highlighted in red.

If you do not have an Xbox 360 opening tool, skip to the next step.

Press the Xbox 360 opening tool down into the clips securing the lower case to the upper case near the I/O ports.

While pressing down on the tool, push the lower and upper cases apart to separate the retaining clips.

If you used an Xbox 360 opening tool on the previous step, skip this step.

While pushing the upper and lower cases apart, insert the pointed end of a small metal spudger into the recesses located near the I/O ports and push downward to release each retaining clip.

Work from the outer edge of the case inwards.

While pushing the upper and lower cases apart, use the tip of a spudger or the finger of an Xbox 360 opening tool to push the long clip highlighted in red toward the center of the 360.

The clip should release, leaving the clips near the power connector as the only thing holding the upper and lower cases together.

If you do not have an Xbox 360 opening tool, skip to the next step.

Press the Xbox 360 opening tool down into the two remaining clips near the power connector.

Push the upper and lower cases apart to fully release the retaining clips.

If you used an Xbox 360 opening tool on the previous step, skip this step.

Release the latches located above the power connector using the same procedure as previously noted.

Orient the console so that the front portion is facing downwards.

Grasp the back portion of the lower case and lift it upwards to separate it from the console.

Be careful not to excessively bend the lower case near the power plug, as it can crack easily.

Use the tip of a spudger to release the clip securing the eject button to the metal casing.

Insert the flat end of a spudger between the eject button and the optical drive.

Pry the eject button off its retaining posts and remove it from the 360.

This can also be accomplished using an Xbox 360 opening tool.

Remove the six silver 64 mm T10 Torx screws securing the upper case to the metal casing.

Orient the console so that the upper case is facing upwards.

Lift the upper case straight up and remove it from the console.

Peel the silver tape securing the optical drive to the metal casing.

Slightly lift the optical drive upwards to gain clearance to disconnect the SATA and power connectors located on the backside of the optical drive.

Don't try to completely remove the optical drive just yet. Two cables still connect it to the motherboard.

Grab the power connector by its cables and pull it straight out of its socket on the optical drive.

Disconnect the SATA data connector from its socket on the optical drive by pulling it straight away.

Lift the optical drive assembly out of the metal casing.

Insert the flat end of a spudger into the small rectangular opening on the top of the cooling fan duct.

Carefully release the fan duct retaining clip and remove the fan duct from the Xbox.

The clip can alternatively be released using the metal finger of an Xbox 360 opening tool.

While lifting the metal chassis strip above the dual fans, pull the fans toward the center of the motherboard.

Do not completely remove the dual fan assembly yet. Its cable is still attached to the motherboard.

Lift the dual fan connector straight up from its socket on the motherboard.

Some fan connectors have a locking tab. If yours has a locking tab, be sure to depress it while disconnecting the fan from the motherboard.

Remove the dual fan assembly from the console.

Use the flat end of a spudger to release the clips securing the RF module shield along the top and the left edge of the RF module.

It may be easier to use your fingernail to release the clips from the RF module.

Remove the RF module shield from the console.

Remove three 5.6 mm T8 Torx screws securing the RF module to the metal chassis.

Grasp the RF module and lift it straight up to disconnect it from its socket on the motherboard.

Remove the RF module from the console.

Remove the following screws securing the motherboard to the metal casing:

• Nine gold 11 mm T10 Torx screws.
• Eight black 5.6 mm T8 Torx screws.

If you are reassembling your Xbox 360 after installing the Red Ring of Death Fix Kit, the eight T8 Torx screws circled in orange are not reused.

Turn the Xbox over, being careful not to let the motherboard fall out of the chassis.

Lift the motherboard assembly from its front edge.

Be careful not to damage the sockets as you rotate the motherboard away from the metal casing.

Remove the motherboard assembly from the metal casing.

Insert the tip of a small flathead screwdriver between the X clamp and its retaining post on the heat sink.

Pry the X clamp away from its retaining post until it is lifted above the small groove cut into the retaining post.

Insert your screwdriver parallel to the motherboard between the X clamp and its retaining post.

Twist the screwdriver to fully release the X clamp from its retaining post.

Repeat this process for all four corners of the X clamp.

When removing the last corner of the X clamp and holding the motherboard upside down, be sure to catch the GPU heat sink to avoid damage from it falling.

To reinstall the X clamp, first start by attaching two corners to the posts on the heat sink.

While holding the third arm of the X clamp down against the post attached to the heat sink, use a small flathead screwdriver to pry the X clamp away from the heat sink post.

As you pry, press down on the arm of the X clamp until you "walk" it down into the retaining groove cut into the post attached to the heat sink.

Repeat this process for the fourth arm of the X clamp.

Remove the GPU heat sink.

Before reinstalling the GPU heat sink, be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste.

If you need to mount the heat sink back onto the motherboard, we have a thermal paste guide that makes replacing the thermal compound easy.

Insert the tip of a small flathead screwdriver between the X clamp and its retaining post on the heat sink.

Pry the X clamp away from its retaining post until it is lifted above the small groove cut into the retaining post.

If necessary, insert your screwdriver parallel to the motherboard between the X clamp and its retaining post. Twist the screwdriver to fully release the X clamp from its retaining post.

Repeat this process for all four corners of the X clamp.

When removing the last corner of the X clamp and holding the motherboard upside down, be sure to catch the CPU heat sink to avoid damage from it falling.

Remove the CPU heat sink from the motherboard.

The X-clamps are not reused when installing the red ring of death fix kit.

Now that the heat sinks are off both processors, use a plastic spudger to remove all of the old thermal paste residue from the faces of both processors and the inner faces of the heat sinks.

Work slowly as you remove the old residue, as many sensitive components are soldered near the processors. If damaged, you may need a whole new motherboard

It is best to use a solvent such as ArctiClean to dissolve the old thermal paste and remove all residue before applying new paste. Alternatively, you can use a mild solvent such as a high purity rubbing alcohol.

You can also use many classic dry-deoxidating sprays: spray it on the paste then rub it; you will remove the paste almost effortlessly and with no residues.

Now is also a good time to clean any dust out from between the fins of both heat sinks.

After cleaning, the mating faces of the heat sinks and the processors should look as shown.

Before proceeding any further, now is the perfect time to reflow the solder on the motherboard. Reflowing provides a higher chance of success in fixing red ring failures and is not hard to accomplish. All that is required is a heat gun. We have a guide that makes it easy.

Flip the motherboard over.

If your motherboard does not have RAM chips on its underside like the board pictured, skip this step.

Peel off the four silicone thermal pads stuck to the RAM chips on the bottom of the board.

Use the 1/4" drive end of the included 6-in-1 screwdriver with no bit inserted to remove the four X-clamp posts from both the CPU and GPU heat sinks.

Apply a thin layer of thermal paste to the areas highlighted in red.

If you have never applied thermal paste, we have a guide that makes it easy.

After applying thermal paste to the processors, it is time to reattach the heat sinks one at a time. In our case, we attached the CPU heat sink first.

This step is performed with the motherboard out of the chassis.

Insert a machine screw through each of the four holes around the CPU heat sink, with their heads on the back side of the board.

While holding the head of the screw, place a nylon washer then a metal washer over the threads.

• The order of the washers is important. Do not put the metal washer on first.

When attaching the CPU heat sink, be sure the fins are aligned with the air flow from the fans (as seen in the third picture). Having the flat side of the fins perpendicular to the air flow will cause your Xbox 360 to overheat.

Using the large flathead screwdriver bit, tighten the screws into the CPU heat sink. First lightly tighten the four screws in an X-shaped pattern as seen in the second picture, then follow the same X-shaped sequence to really torque the screws down.

Don't be afraid of over-tightening the screws - the pressure between the heat sinks and processors caused by sufficiently torqued screws is needed to squeeze the processors back against the board.

Repeat the same process to attach your GPU heat sink.

Use the edge of your small flathead screwdriver or another thin and sharp object to carefully pull up a corner of the blue or white plastic sheet covering the adhesive on the bottom of both heat sinks.

Be careful not to wrinkle or peel up the adhesive in the process.

Peel the protective sheets off the adhesive on both heat sinks.

Lightly clean the surface of the two chips highlighted in red on the first picture.

Be sure to position the heat sinks correctly before you stick them down, as the adhesive is extremely strong and sensitive to being repositioned.

Stick the two heat sinks down against the top of the two chips highlighted in red on the first picture, being sure the fins are aligned as seen in the second picture.

When reinstalling the optical drive, be sure both the power and SATA cables do not interfere with the heat sink attached closest to their sockets on the motherboard.

If your motherboard lacks RAM chips on its bottom face, it is not necessary to apply thermal pads.

Remove the clear and colored plastic backing material from all four thermal pads.

Stick the thermal pads down against the RAM chips on the bottom of the board.

• The thermal pads included in your kit might be slightly different colors than those pictured.

Reinstall the motherboard back into the chassis and reassemble your Xbox 360.