1987-1993 Kawasaki Ninja 500 Oil Change
Change the oil in your '87-'93 Kawasaki Ninja 500 to improve engine performance and longevity.
- Author: Phillip Takahashi
- Time required: 30 to 45 minutes
- Difficulty: Moderate
Change the oil in your '87-'93 Kawasaki Ninja 500 to improve engine performance and longevity. Note that the process for changing the oil in this bike is the same as the next generation, '94-'09, Kawasaki Ninja 500.
Tools
- .375" Socket Wrench
optional
- 17 mm Box End Wrench
- 17 mm Socket
optional
- Funnel
- Oil Drain Pan
- Oil Filter Wrench
optional
Relevant Parts
- Engine Oil - Quart (4) , 10W-40 Make sure the oil is for motorcycles.
- Oil Filter Consult your owner's manual or an online database to see what filters will fit.
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Step 1
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1987-1993 Kawasaki Ninja 500 Oil Change
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If your bike has a front lower cowling, you must remove it to perform the oil change.
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Begin by locating the center stand peg. It is located behind the the left foot peg and just below the exhaust pipe.
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Mount the bike and raise the kickstand.
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Use your left foot to apply pressure to the center stand peg and rock the bike backwards onto the center stand.
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If you have a fork and swing arm stand, you may use these to raise your bike instead of the center stand.
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Step 2
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Locate the oil filter and 17 mm hex oil drain plug. The oil filter is facing forward off the front of the engine, along its center line. The oil drain plug is on the bottom of the engine, below the oil filter.
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Place the oil drain pan under the oil drain plug and oil filter.
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Be sure to position the drain pan so that it will catch the oil when it is streaming out of the pan.
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Step 3
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Always wear protective gloves and eyewear when working with motor oil. Be careful if your bike has been running recently as the engine and exhaust may be very hot. Keep rags or towels nearby to wipe up any spills.
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Use a 17 mm box end wrench or socket to turn the oil drain plug counter-clockwise until you can turn it by hand.
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Finish removing the oil drain plug by hand and allow the oil to drain. Loosening the oil fill cap either before or after removing the drain plug will help drain the oil faster.
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Watch the draining oil for shiny specks. These specks may be metal flakes which could indicate a serious problem with your engine.
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Step 4
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Remove the oil filter by turning it counter-clockwise by hand.
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If the filter is too tight to loosen by hand, use an oil filter wrench. A wrench that fits over the top of the oil filter is ideal, as there is very little space on the sides of the oil filter.
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Place the oil filter in the oil drain pan with the threads facing down.
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Step 5
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Once the draining oil has slowed to a drip, clean the area around the drain plug hole with a clean towel or rag and replace the oil drain plug.
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Screw in the oil drain plug by hand, turning it clockwise as far as possible. Finish tightening the drain plug by using a 17 mm box end wrench or socket.
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Only tighten the drain plug until it is snug. Over-tightening the oil drain plug can strip the threads or crack the oil pan.
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Step 6
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Wipe off all the oil from the engine's oil filter gasket face and threads using a clean rag or towel.
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Put on a clean glove and dip your finger in a new bottle of oil.
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Spread clean oil around the entire gasket of the new oil filter.
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Wipe off any excess oil from your hands/fingers when you are done as the oil may make handling the filter or tools difficult.
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Step 7
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Place the threaded end of the oil filter onto the engine's oil filter threads, then turn the filter clockwise by hand until it is snug. Tightening the filter should require a moderate amount of your strength, but not all of it.
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If the filter is difficult to turn at the beginning of its threads, stop! You may be cross threading the oil filter. Re-align the oil filter and try again.
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Do not over-tighten your oil filter by using a wrench. Doing so may cause the oil filter seal to leak and will make removing the oil filter very difficult in the future.
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Remove the oil drain pan from under the bike.
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