⟐ Edited May 23, 2013 at 3:37 am -0700

⟐ Answered May 23, 2013 at 2:49 am -0700

Now the "5" and the "t" button don't work

although sometimes they magically do and fall away again or when I press "5" 1 appears instead of 5.

I pulled the buttons off and cleaned it a little bit to no effect.

Any suggestions or ideas? I'm very new with Mac equipment so forgive a newbie

⟐ Answered May 23, 2013 at 1:27 am -0700

What I tried so far:

1. pressing the power on button in various combinations with the cmd, ctrl and shift buttons (as suggested on some websites)

2. removed the battery, pressed the start button for at least 10 seconds and replaced the battery

3. removed the battery and tried to start without battery (but with the battery charger connected)

Doing a battery check (pushbutton at the left side) rusults is no leds lighting when the battery charger is disconnected and all leds lighting when the battery charger is connected.

Any help is appreciated,

Rik

⟐ Commented May 23, 2013 at 12:59 am -0700

⟐ Commented May 23, 2013 at 12:57 am -0700

⟐ Commented May 23, 2013 at 12:55 am -0700

i have an iphone 4s but a couple of days ago the screen started to act weird.

when i turned on the screen goes all white with colored lines then i have to reset it and it goes back to normal but when i try to take a picture the screen starts to flash then it goes black so i go to my pictures and the phone its okay so i know there is nothing wrong with the camera

does anyone know what the problem could be?

⟐ Answered May 23, 2013 at 12:26 am -0700

If not is there a recommended driver I can purchase from ifixit?

Thanks!

⟐ Commented May 23, 2013 at 12:15 am -0700

I reinstalled the phone software, but the same. I switched off and on the phone again several times, but still the same.

⟐ Answered May 22, 2013 at 11:55 pm -0700

⟐ Answered May 22, 2013 at 11:48 pm -0700

⟐ Answered May 22, 2013 at 11:32 pm -0700

but the iphone wont turn on

and even if i plug it to the pc it wont turn on

the pc dosent recognize it at all

i tried DFU mode and holding both buttons and all this stuff

i also tried to replacing the iphone battery and nothing

help please ....

⟐ Edited May 22, 2013 at 11:29 pm -0700

⟐ Answer deleted May 22, 2013 at 10:59 pm -0700

As it turns out, that blob of glue in the top left hand corner had come loose and was no longer holding apart the headphone jack and volume ribbons. Ironically a screw which had come loose from the board had taken its place and prevented a short. Hence when I returned this screw to its rightful place and put the phone back together... it failed to turn on and simply got very hot, very quickly.

This happened twice before I identified the culprit and patched it with insulation tape. I was quick to open up the phone and make sure it was disconnected fast to avoid too much damage from the short. However now it appears my backlight will not function. All else is working fine however. I have taken a look at the 6r8 coil responsible for the light circuit but see no signs of damage. I am unclear however as to whether this ever looks damaged or burnt out from the outside.

It is also possible that the short simply stopped because the coil burnt out and my solution was coincidental. There is an issue with the top two pins on the top row of the LCD ribbon house also being slightly out of line. It has been like this for two years however and caused no problems.

My questions are therefore:

Does the 6r8 coil look damaged when it is... damaged?

Is running the phone without the backlight likely to cause further issues (if the coil has blown)?

What other issues could cause this?

Thanks.

⟐ Answer edited May 22, 2013 at 10:14 pm -0700

⟐ Commented May 22, 2013 at 10:10 pm -0700

⟐ Commented May 22, 2013 at 10:02 pm -0700

Thank you.

⟐ Answer accepted May 22, 2013 at 9:22 pm -0700

⟐ Commented May 22, 2013 at 8:23 pm -0700

⟐ Answered May 22, 2013 at 7:59 pm -0700

But here's the thing, although I have no issue paying the $140 for a replacement power supply, I don't want to spend that money just to find out that it was actually the logic board that crapped out on me. So I was wondering if there was some way for me to test the logic board or something to greater guarantee that the power supply was the only culprit in this.

Alternatively, I was wondering if there was some way for me to connect pins from a PC to the iMac and see if it turns on that way?

If not, then would you happen to know if iFixit will take back the replacement PSU in the case that the logic board is in fact dead? I read that they take back parts as long as they work and give you a percentage of the money back, but how much would that percentage be?

⟐ Commented May 22, 2013 at 7:54 pm -0700

⟐ Answered May 22, 2013 at 7:52 pm -0700

⟐ Answered May 22, 2013 at 7:42 pm -0700

thanks for any advice, i already changed battery cable twice!

⟐ Comment deleted May 22, 2013 at 7:31 pm -0700

A week ago it tripped the breaker.

I suspect a DTDP door switch bot I haven't noticed any high voltage or short strike trail.

⟐ Answer accepted May 22, 2013 at 7:30 pm -0700

⟐ Commented May 22, 2013 at 7:26 pm -0700

⟐ Answer edited May 22, 2013 at 7:26 pm -0700

⟐ Commented May 22, 2013 at 7:24 pm -0700

⟐ Answered May 22, 2013 at 7:20 pm -0700

⟐ Commented May 22, 2013 at 7:17 pm -0700

I would like to hack into the power button of my MacBook Pro. I'm using it as a server in a remote location, and sometimes it hangs/crashes. Forcing a restart by holding down the power button fixes the problem.

I would like to be able to activate the power button restart remotely (via an Arduino connected to a phone line, for example).

On older MacBook Pros that I have disassembled, there are two easily accessible wires attached to the power button and it would be no problem to hack into those wires. On this newer MBP, it's not so clear to me that there will be wires (as opposed to a ribbon connector, say), and I'd like to know what I'm going to find before I start taking it apart.

I've looked through the iFixit repair guides for this model, but I did not come across a photo of the power button from the inside.

So, my question: On this model, how is the power button connected to the rest of the machine? Wires? Ribbon connector? Something else? How difficult would it be to splice in two thin wires to the power button which lead outside of the case?

(Note: I'm aware of "wake on network access" and other software options, but these only work if the Mac is not crashed.)

⟐ Edited May 22, 2013 at 7:14 pm -0700

⟐ Answer edited May 22, 2013 at 7:11 pm -0700

⟐ Commented May 22, 2013 at 7:09 pm -0700

I've searched differemt videos but none show that part

I have an iMac 12,2 27" mid 2010, Intel i5, 8GB RAM and AMD RADEON HD 6770M(512MB).

I would like to know if it is possible to change the graphics card of this specific model to maybe an NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660 Ti | GeForce? Or does it have to be an ATI?

I've been seeing alot of tutorials around for changing the graphics card but none for my specific model.

Thanks!

⟐ Commented May 22, 2013 at 6:07 pm -0700

⟐ Answered May 22, 2013 at 5:59 pm -0700

they both have not suffered falling or water damage.

took the logic board out, connected a test screen, dock connector and battery, still no fix.

itunes keep saying

"There is a problem with your iPhone.

we're sorry, the iphone you connected may be damaged and cannot be activated for service. we recommend you visit your nearest apple store for more information.

To find your nearest Apple store. click here."

have read this could be the baseband chip...

any ideas?

thx

⟐ Comment deleted May 22, 2013 at 5:39 pm -0700

⟐ Comment deleted May 22, 2013 at 5:35 pm -0700

Issue: Digitizer Replacement / wifi issue.

I replaced the Digitizer on an Ipad 2. When I went to test the wifi I realized I had ruined the Wifi antenna. I replaced the wifi antenna. I don't have the ipad completely shut, just close to shut. The digitizer is resting on the rest of the Ipad. The Wifi isn't working right now after replacing the antenna. I seem to remember that most apple products tend to have mechanisms to prevent it from working 100% when open. For example when I replaced the digitizer on my Ipad I the wifi didn't work until the digitizer was firmly sealed onto the ipad. Does the ipad need to be completely shut to get the wifi to work?

I'm afraid to shut it because the digitizer was hard to get off.

When I say the Wifi doesn't work I mean it's not detecting any networks at all. I'm at an office building, there should be at least 15 networks.

⟐ Edited May 22, 2013 at 5:24 pm -0700

⟐ Edited May 22, 2013 at 5:24 pm -0700

⟐ Answered May 22, 2013 at 5:23 pm -0700

Ive done all the resets...

I cant see any damage to any cables/connectors?

Ive just bought a new lower section e.g the charging port.

Any help?

I'm working on a friend's late 2010 Macbook Air that's had liquid spilled on it. Some of the pins coming out of the logic board to the video socket have melted away due to presumably shorting out from the water.

I've successfully run the system on an external monitor and the rest of the system seems to work OK.

I've attached an image. It's the best shot I can get with the cameras I have access to.

Any chance fixing these pin(s) is a DYI job, or do I have to send it somewhere. If I have to send it somewhere, does anyone have a reputable shop? Is a replacement board a better idea?

Thanks!

⟐ Commented May 22, 2013 at 3:51 pm -0700

⟐ Answered May 22, 2013 at 3:19 pm -0700