Thanks in advance.

⟐ Commented May 13, 2012 at 4:04 pm

What cards would work in this machine? What should I look for?

Thx

⟐ Answer edited May 16, 2012 at 10:09 am

I was wondering if I change my "NVIDIA GeFroce 8200m G" for a "PNY NVIDIA GeFroce GT 430 PCI-E" will it improve the perforance of my gaming experience?

Most importantly will it get rid of my lag?

⟐ Answered May 16, 2012 at 10:56 am

I am from Spain, sorry for my English.

l1tel@hotmail.com

i have MacBook (13-inch, Mid 2009) 2.13. i spilled water by mistake. i opened and cleaned the laptop now when i plug my original magsafe it has green light however macbook wont turn on (battery wont charge either) i tried same magsafe in other macbook( same model) works fine also the battery work fine. if i use a magsafe with higher volt it does turn on however wont charge battery. i tried fully charged battery (from other macbook) it still wont turn on. what can be faulty??

⟐ Commented May 6, 2012 at 6:50 pm

replaced with battery they claimed was Apple certified.

I only have a MacBook Pro AC adapter-

Q 1- Does the AC adapter/Charger make a difference from one model to the other. Can I use that charger with my Air.

Q2- Battery displays like it is not installed- Everything seem to work fine except removing AC kills system. I am willing to purchase a battery from Ifixit if my mistake of purchasing a 3rd party battery is my issue.

I have reset PMS- It will appear briefly like it recognizes the battery and attempt to calculate remaining life- but then falls back to "no battery available". LED toggles from amber to green like it fully charged.

when battery is recognized- the unit will remain on when AC removed- but not long.

I have read many blogs and info from your site- Big fan/supporter. If this does not solve my issue I now have parts available for this model as well as a Pro A1226

Thanks

Todd

⟐ Answered May 16, 2012 at 7:20 am

⟐ Answered May 5, 2012 at 8:05 am

Is anybody did repair of this board after liquid spill?

Is reapir fix all troubles?

My MacBook not boot at all, MagSafe blinking dim orange. Battery not charged.

Pls HELP me!!!!

⟐ Commented May 11, 2012 at 12:37 pm

Out of the box the battery indicator showed a full range , so i've runned my macbook Pro model A1226 with the new battery without the power cable until the battery had no charge at all .

Then i plugged my power cable to run my mac and charge the new battery and as a surprise my baterry is not charging and the battery indicator on the top right side of OSX doesn't show any sign of a charging battery .

So i went to "More info" to check the battery status and the mac recognize it but doesn't start charginng it

So i did an SMC reset and still nothing happens ....

.....Help what's happening ? what do i have to do ?

Thanx

Morgan

⟐ Answer edited May 16, 2012 at 10:25 am

When I called Apple, they told me that the largest drive I could install in the MacBook was a 120GB, which I cannot locate.

⟐ Answered May 16, 2012 at 8:26 am

What could be the problem?

⟐ Commented May 16, 2012 at 8:34 am

I have accidentally broke one of the transistors in the Charging Port Flex Cable of IPAD 1.

I wish to replace the broken transistor but I have no idea what type of transistor is it?

(I'm not 100% sure it's a transistor at all :-))

I wish to buy the original transistor replacement for the ipad but I can live with something similar that will fit in place.

I added a picture of the location of the broken transistor.

Broken transistor location

⟐ Edited May 16, 2012 at 7:35 am

I have just installed a ekstra harddrive instead off the optical drive.

I used the guide to optical drive.

All went fine and the new drive works fine, but now are airport, bluetooth, isight and light sensors not available more.

I have checked the camera cable 5 times but i won't work.

I have also reset PRAM.

What should i do??

I was told that the cable connector did not come out of the port straight, which leads me to believe that the male connector inside the iPod is bad, or perhaps the board.

Any ideas on what I should check next? Is there a part that I should replace.

-When you press the power button, the screen flashes white twice, then stays black. Otherwise, everything else starts up normally with the chime and hard drive sounds, etc.

-Shining a flashlight to the screen shows it still works (just no backlight?)

-I've reset the PRAM, no go

-I've replaced the inverter board but that didn't work

-It does work with an external monitor attached

I am currently running an extended Apple hardware test to see if it brings up anything specific.

Could something on the logic board be bad?

Bad CCFLs?

⟐ Comment deleted March 15, 2012 at 9:19 am

⟐ Answered May 4, 2012 at 5:50 pm

there is a steady red light on upper right, it would stay on for 20 seconds then jump to battery mode then jump back to red light. Any options

⟐ Answered May 7, 2012 at 4:54 pm

⟐ Commented May 16, 2012 at 5:56 am

⟐ Edited May 16, 2012 at 8:43 am

Now the washer has an F71 failure code on it and will not start. I have unplugged the machine several times, even left it unplugged overnight, but when I plug it back in the message returns after about 15 minutes and the machine will still not start. Nothing except the F71 code lights up.

⟐ Answer edited May 16, 2012 at 7:13 am

⟐ Commented May 16, 2012 at 6:21 am

The speakers play music fine, and I can have phone conversations and hear/speak to the other person fine. Also, the alarm clock sounds Any ideas? Super appreciated!

Note: The mute switch doesn't seem jammed or anything, but when I switch it off, it doesn't show the picture of the bell with the line through it while vibrating to let me know its off. Also, the volume buttons get no response when pressed.

⟐ Edited February 24, 2012 at 1:56 pm

Does anyone have any advice as I've repaired DS's for a few years now and I have never encountered that problem before

⟐ Answered May 14, 2012 at 12:32 pm

⟐ Answered May 14, 2012 at 7:09 pm

⟐ Edited May 5, 2012 at 3:46 pm

⟐ Commented October 27, 2011 at 2:08 pm

⟐ Answer deleted May 16, 2012 at 5:43 am

⟐ Answered May 16, 2012 at 6:10 am

My iPhone recently had a bit of a bath which seemed to kill it. I left it in a bag with some silica crystals to dry it out for a few days. Once I tried it again, the phone did turn on but had no screen! The touch wouldn't work and showed nothing, BUT, the backlight was working. It would ring and iTunes recognised it.

I bought a replacement screen and some isopropyl alcohol (99.9%) dismantled the phone, cleaned the top of the logic board which showed some signs of corrosion, fitted the new screen and it all worked apart from the backlight. I could unlock it so backed up with iTunes, then tried it with another LCD and the same happened.

So I dismantled it all and fitted the original screen, and it worked perfectly! Touch screen, LCD, backlight, everything!

Now, the original LCD had some water marks and damage so I refitted one of the replacement screens and again, no backlight!

Is it likely that the two replacement screens I have bought, both have faulty backlights? Or that my iPhone is frying the backlights in the replacement screens as soon as they're fitted (not original Apple products)? Anybody have any experience with aftermarket screens backlights not working?

Many Thanks

Chris

⟐ Answered May 12, 2012 at 9:09 am

⟐ Answered June 4, 2010 at 12:07 pm

⟐ Answer deleted May 12, 2012 at 5:08 am

⟐ Answered July 22, 2011 at 7:19 am

⟐ Answer accepted May 14, 2012 at 3:22 pm

⟐ Commented May 14, 2012 at 2:16 pm

I would like to replace the MagSafe board on my Macbook Unibody A1342, because my laptop has no power anymore.

But I did not find a specific guide for the A1342 model. I found it for other macbooks (like Macbook pro unibody).. If nobody posts a guide, I might try it. Could somebody give me some advices in order not make something wrong?

Rym

⟐ Commented May 15, 2012 at 2:31 am

And then tried resetting by pressing home+power button. It worked fine and is fine for a half day and then again only white screen.

I would be thankful if any one can help me out of this......

What else could be wrong?

Update

I have a third broken iPad coming to my department for repair. This time, I am going to let the battery drain 100% before anything is disassembled.

Update

folks, I appreciate your time posting 1) disconnect the battery 2) reset iOS.

These things have been discussed here at length and have not resolved the problem.

my iPad issue is still not resolved.

Update

as I reflect on my disassembly, I have considered I did something different the second time around on repair. The first time, I used a plastic scribe to release the LCD cable from the system board. Second time around, I used the mini-screw driver from the kit to pop up the retainer. Reflecting on my actions, and knowing better, that probably created a short across contacts and damaged the system board, despite being careful. Course, I am just guessing, but that was a difference between the two repairs I did...the first ipad repair being successful, the second, not so successful.

⟐ Answered October 26, 2011 at 11:12 am

I have a strange problem on my Macbook Pro.

The backlight is not working.

Everything else is Ok, external Display works fine.

Also I have backlight on that LCD when I connect it to another macbook pro.

I checked the inverter, the I/O Board and wiring.

Found the I/O board faulty (smd resistance dead) and replaced it.

Still, the backlight is dead. (from the beginning when I turn on the MBP)

What I found strange is, that also there is no backlight-control-symbol showing on the sreen when I push F1, F2 (I made sure that it is not Fn-F1, F2). Rest of the F keys are working as they should.

Can that really be a hardware fault? - I would at least expect showing up the backlight symbol on the screen.

The display is properly recognised in the properties as it should (about my mac).

Does anybody have an idea what I am probably missing? Is there probably some analysis program that might give more information?

Thanks for your help.

Kind regards,

cal

⟐ Answered November 20, 2010 at 3:07 am

⟐ Edited May 15, 2012 at 5:53 pm

i bought an ipad 2 with an unresponsive digitizer so i replaced the digitizer and the thing is still not working even after numerous restores.

it wont swipe to unlock but when i pick the power/volume button ribbon connector away from the small circuit board on the right hand side it jumps into telling me to chose location services.ive tried 2 different digitisers and still the same.can anyone help with this problem???? can anyone tell me what part of the circuitboard reads the digitisers movement?? thanks in advance!!!

⟐ Answered May 15, 2012 at 2:40 pm

Rach

⟐ Answered November 11, 2011 at 2:53 pm

I dropped my iPhone and now I get "no service".

When the phone boots up (or after switching the airplane mode on and off) it finds the signal (at the weakest level) but after 10 seconds, signal is lost and the phone is searching for the carrier again...

Everything else works normally (Wifi, etc), and I can use it as a "skype" phone, listening to music and surfing.

My OS is 3.1.2 (with 05.11.07 baseband)

I tried the following (without success):

• doing full restore with DFU mode on clean iTunes
• opening the iPhone and making sure no cables are loose
• 3G is switched off

Does anyone have any advice what else I could try?

⟐ Commented May 16, 2010 at 2:31 pm

as my sister dropped her iphone into glass of water so the screen part didn't seem to work and it seem like not charging at all but only the down bit that affected

so would like to ask that do i have to buy dock connector + any thing else?

also this is happen before she dropped her phone, whenever she press the button she has to press hard to make it respond any suggest ? :)

so iPhone 4 Dock Connector (GSM/AT&T)

iPhone 4 Home Button Assembly

thanks

Update

any one please :)

Update

hey, i replaced dock coonector but it still didn't charge ?! please help

ps, i took off the battery and put on charge it works show 100% but when i put the battery back it didn't charge

Update

ok, what i mean was when an iphone got battery inside, i plugged in a charger, it doesn't seem like charging (nothing was showing). but when i took a battery off an iphone and then plug in charge again, it turned on and show 100% on battery bar.

⟐ Answer edited May 8, 2012 at 5:59 am

I've tried every fix I've found, like disabling the motion sensor, to keep maximum power on to the hard drive.

The new macbook pro has the same problem, but I'm not allowed to install the fix in the old one.

The hd is ok, the s.m.a.r.t. report is ok, apple mount 7200 on the new mac book pro unibody and a lot of them make this click noise before the patch(efi?), that unfortunately is just for the unibody.

I make a daily backup for the work and a weekly for everything else.

Any ideas?

⟐ Answer edited November 13, 2009 at 10:17 am