Why are my fridge and freezer not cooling?
Earlier today I noticed that a bottle of juice I put in the fridge last night wasn't cold. The temperature control for the freezer said -10 (should be 0) and the fridge said 57 (should be 37). I've tried to reset the controls, to no avail. I unplugged it, vacuumed off the back (although there wasn't much to vacuum) and plugged it in again. It's only getting warmer. Any ideas? I don't remember exactly when I bought the fridge, but I believe it's less than 10 years old.
UPDATE: The fridge is 7 years old. Also, the freezer is now at 2 and the fridge is at 63. So the temp of the freezer is moving in the right direction, but the fridge is definitely not.
I sure hope AB Cellars sees this. He was amazing when I posted about my clothes dryer.
ANOTHER UPDATE: The GE Technician just arrived. It's the freezer sensor (aka thermistor). I'm getting 50% off parts and labor, so my total cost is $146.77 (including the service call).
Thanks everyone for your help! Mayer... you nailed it. The evaporator coils were covered in ice.
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
The defrost timer
The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)
If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
Kathy, there is a circulator fan blowing from the freezer into most fridge compartments. Do and did you used to hear/feel this little fan blowing when you open the door? Sounds like the fan has locked up and needs replacement. You have good cooling if the freezer is 2F. The fridge compartment temp control just opens and closes a shutter this fan blows through to cool the unfrozen stuff.....
We had the same problem and numerous engineers who havent a clue how to rectify and had we found out to our cost these can be complicated appliances to work on and Ge doesnt operate in the uk and all their service calls are contracted out to various service companies who in turn subcontract the work out to other companies in the hope they can fix your appliance. In the end we got lucky when an engineer from a company agsrefrigeratio