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jimmi
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Visible Dust Marks Behind LCD - Not Between the LCD and Glass

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Hi iFixit,

I have some dust that is inside my iMac 21.5". It is behind the LCD. Not in front. Not between the LCD and the glass.

I have found some people that have the same problems, i want to ask if you can make an repair guide (with pictures)

See this link http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.p...

Best Regards,

Jimmi

Denmark

Edited by: Andrew Bookholt ( ) , ABCellars ( ) , jimmi ( )

Very interesting problem. Thank you for sharing the link it explains the issue and solution well. I see why you may want pictures of the procedure.

ABCellars,

Yes, thats right.. i dont think it's same procedure if you have 21.5" or 27" And i think there is gonna be alot of these problems in the future. My iMac 21.5 are 11 month old now and i have the problems now. (and i do not smoke, and my iMac is standing with alot of air around it) No, i didn't follow the link because the guide are for 27" and i as in can see its an bit diffrence for 21.5" ... But i do know its dust behind LDC, and you need to remove the frame from LCD, and i think its easy to breake somthing, therefore i really want an picture guide, and you guys are the best ;)

jimmi,

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tehsalt
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It is recommended if your iMac is under warranty that you contact Apple care and have them resolve this issue. If your computer is not under warranty proceed with reasonable care. While the ifixit team would like to accommodate you and provide a guide with pictures of this procedure for your specific model there are none at the moment. Your best known method to solve your problem is to loosely follow the procedure, for the 27", in the link you provided. In following that thread several people have successfully done this repair on their 24" and have stated that the repair is easier on their model. Hopefully you will find the same to be true. Credit for this procedure goes to Oggy & lefterisgr of the MacRumors Forums. This repair is not for the faint of heart, but not extremely difficult either.

1. Remove the glass, unscrew the 10 torx screws, disconnect the 4 cables that attach the LCD panel to the boards. Remove them, but be very careful, especially with the wide flat cable that's close to the middle of the screen - it's very easy to damage that connector if you're not careful, and put the panel on a soft, clean flat surface facing down. Follow this guide.

2. Unscrew 8 screws holding the frame to the panel. Some of them are beneath the cushions. They are different sizes, 2 of them are shorter, so keep track of that. This guy came to this part http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNWASktH7.... Watch the video!

3. Remove the black plastic tape from the bottom. Remove the metal tape from the corners. You will see the 3 places for "pry opening" the frame. There are two more that you don't see on the top side. They are beneath the frame on the sides. You have to remove the metal tape in the corners in order to see those places. Look closely from the side. They look like small dents in which you put a flat head screwdriver. Don't pry it yet. Using a razor slice the tape right next to the metal frame - between the black plastic and the external metal frame. It's easier than it sounds.

4. When you're done with that you will see some more prying places for releasing the frame. 5 on each side.The display must be vertical for this part of the job and it helps if you have a second person holding it. Using a small flat head screwdriver pry one point at a time.You want to pry between the metal frame and the black plastic, don't pry under plastic. Try to find the prying dents it will be easier to release the frame. Rotate the entire assembly as needed. There is no reason to open the tin plate that covers the board. You do need to unscrew the 2 top screws so this plate so that it releases from the frame.

5. Once it's loose, put it back face down and tilted it from the bottom. Just crack it open. The top side is connected to the logic board. Be gentle. Don't remove it all the way. The LCD's glass stayed on the bottom and you can squeeze a hand in to clean (using a DRY Apple's cloth). There will be dust on the backlight, the LCD's glass and the panel.

6. Close it and put the frame back. It snaps back easily just be careful with the top where the connections are.

It may be easier to snap back the LCD to the frame while vertical.

7. Put the screws back on the frame, place the frame onto the iMac and carefully re-attach the cables. screw the frame back, clean your fingerprints off and snap the glass back on.

Block Image

Picture by lefterisgr MacRumors Forums

Edited by: ABCellars ( )

But the answer got accepted by the OP not matter how wrong or insufficient we think it is. I think we should leave that decision up to jimmi. Remember, you can lead a horse to water, but you can not make it drink. :-)

oldturkey03,

I know what you are saying and I do agree with you. Just over the last couple of month I have had to many encounters where weird answers were accepted that I knew to be wrong. Whenever I pointed this out I found out that a particular fix was accepted by the person that asked, because it actual worked for them. Probably due to the fact that not all the details were given in the original question. That is why I have resigned myself to leave an answer as correct if it was accepted by the person that has asked, since it must have worked for them. ifixit should never be about points but about getting others to accomplish the repair to reuse their devices...#%@%%* the points as long as someone says thank you every once in a while, good enough for me:-)

oldturkey03,

The email that gets sent out gives a option of accepting the answer right there without even looking at it or coming back to the iFixit web site. So I think whichever answer is first in line gets accepted. Jimmi can always unaccept the answer.

mayer,

I remember Answers was all about helping people (about 15 months ago). If somebody answered something wrong, people wouldn't flame about it, but help each other instead. Now it seems to be a race to see who earns the biggest amount of points. I understand I may have gotten to the wrong point while answering this question and for that I apologize Jimmi, but Jesus Christ I feel like I robbed people's extremely valuable points. To the affected people, I'd send out virtual money or a cow to you to compensate the damage, but I don't have such compulsive behavior, or cows, or money.

tehsalt,

tehsalt you are correct the spirit of ifixit needs to be about providing good answers to solve problems. I took an hour of my time to edit your answer to reflect the correct procedure here, so that the next person will find the proper solution. I am going to up you too so you can have some points. By the way no points are given or taken for editing an answer, just the satisfaction of knowing a better answer is there for the next person. You the original poster get all the credit.

ABCellars,

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Kyle
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The problem isn't extremely uncommon. It's caused by a spray that's overlaid on the power supply at the manufacturing point. That spray is heated up when the supply reaches a certain temperature and basically smokes the display. I've seen it 7-10 times.

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