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sue
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Asked
F11 code error on kenmore he3
i never had a problem w/ my kenmore he3 until last wk (i had it for six yrs). FDL kept showing and my cycle would not complete. i ordered a door lock online for this mode,replaced it and my problem went away, anyway, i thought it did. after about 6 loads of wash, F11 now shows. should i just junk the machine because now it has become agrivating.
Edited by: iRobot ( ) , osvaldo, rj713, and oldturkey03 ( )
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mayer
150.7k
Answered
Accepted Answer
The F11 code is from a communication break in the serial link from the CCU (Central Control Unit) to the MCU (Motor Control Unit)(from the brains to the washer motor controller). Stay with me here!
There are three blue wires that go to the MCU from the CCU. Most of the problems probably occur during the final spin when the machine spins fastest and longest to extract all of the water.
Hence, the most vibrations cause the connectors to shake until there is a break in communication!
Take the top of the machine off (three #20 torx screws on the top back) to gain access into the machine. The CCU is top center back and has the spaghetti of wire going to it. You will see white wires on the far right of the CCU. Then going left they turn to black. The black set (3 wires) left of the row of white wires if for the Door Lock/Unlock. It IS a problem for the F/DL error. It is not making a good connection. Next the blue wire on the LHS of the CCU, last set (back) there are three blue wires. These 3 go to the MCU and are the serial communication lines. Tighten all these wires to make sure they are making good connections. Make sure your machine is level with all the feet on the floor. You do have a 24 month warranty one the machine so call a tech if within that period. To insure that this may be the problem, take a ride and sit on it during the final spin ;-) If it works then you know it's probably the wiring, if it doesn't buck you off first.
You really don't want to replace these parts because the MCU is $230 and the CCU is $175 -- a lot to pay for some loose wires. If you must buy parts, here they are: http://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Par...
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I was able to get rid of this same problem by removing the CCU (pretty easy), desoldering the 3 relays on the board and soldering them back into place. I also opened up the two white ones and cleaned them inside, but the fix actually came after desoldering and resoldering the black relay. 8 loads so far - no issues. Prior to that it would stop working about every other load. If you need any help let me know. Good luck! eye-play-golf@g-mail.co-m. Delete all the dashes.
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Shannon
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I found that my excessive vibration is due to there only being two springs holding the barrel as opposed to four, which it was designed for. The springs have stretched out and doesn't have enough support.
I tightend the connectors on the CCU and replaced the springs and haven't had a problem for 5 loads now.
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nick
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Same problem with my 6 year old machine. Replaced k1 and k4 relay on ccu board. Now 3 weeks later all is still working fine. Problem looks like design error. When door latch opens the latch coil generates a voltage spike that arcs cross the relay and eventually the contacts don,t hold, especially at the vibrations generated during the final spin cycle. F11 error is just a bad diagnostic.
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Dylan
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I too had this issue and thanks to Mayer and Chris Campbells post went straight to the problem. I looked at the solder points on the under side of the board for the relays. With the naked eye, nothing looked out of the ordinary; however, under a microscope at the office, was able to see the solder was broken in a circular shape at the base of the pin. Again, it wasnt clearly visible even under the scope until you moved the relay on the other side and then you could clearly see the pin coming in and out of contact with the traces. I had my technician remove the old solder and resolder which after reinstallation has completely solved the issue. For those who dont have a technician available to them, any local electronics repair house could do this for you. Good luck.
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Dave
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There is a guy on ebay who fixes your computer board in your Sears HE3t washer for F11 errors. We suffered for 3 years of F11 errors. Tried wiggling wires on computer board and sometimes it helped. In the end, I sent my computer board to the guy who fixes these on EBAY and two years later, the machine still runs great. $60 bucks well invested. Search for "Kenmore HE3T Whirlpool Duet Board Repair For F11 Code".
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steve D
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hope
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what does c1 and ob mean when rinsing
@hope, I can not find anything on those two descriptors. Make sure that you copied them correctly The "C" code usually shows during a diagnostics test. You may want to start there. The control must be in the OFF state before pressing the touch-pad sequence to start the test. Starting the test mode Close the door. Press the Control On button. Select the DRAIN/SPIN cycle. Select NO SPIN by pressing the SPIN SELECT button, as needed. Push Prewash Option button four (4) times within five (5) seconds. C:00 will show in the display. NOTE: If Model does not have PREWASH Mode as an option, press RINSE/HOLD. If the Starting procedure fails, push PAUSE/CANCEL button. Then repeat the starting sequence. Test Program Control during Execution To advance to the next step of the test procedure, push Prewash Option button two (2) times. After that gives us more information about what is going with your washer.
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robert
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i too just started getting a F-11 code on my kenmore he3.it is also 6 years old.no issues until now.but before i start to take it apart(is there any photos/ that will help me to dismantle?).tha
robert, get the service manual from here, it should help you with your washer. One other thing I recommend is that you try the diagnostic program the see what answer you get. It is in the service manual, listing the codes as well as the error codes.
