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jack
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will not shift into 3rd just slips.

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I installed a 700r4 in my 60 chevy. It only shifts 1st to 2nd it slips when it goes to 3rd. does this have any thing to do with the TV cable not being conected?

Edited by: 040304 ( )

Jack, mine has that problem too, slips after 2nd. I am about to put another 700R4 in there and I can report back after the install. - Frank

040304,

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040304
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Jack,

Check out this thread about the 700R4. I am having the same problem with mine and I am replacing it with a unit from Craigslist.

Good luck

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Greg Zimmerman
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The TV cable MUST be installed and connected to the throttle arm and adjusted properly for the transmission to operate properly. Failure to do this will result in slipping shifts and poor performance and will eventually result in transmission failure. Cable brackets and cables are available on Jegs or Summit to enable proper TV cable geometry/travel.

Adjustment is easily done once the cable is properly installed, press in on the side of the adjuster body (a button like thing, its metal) on the throttle end and push the adjuster all the way into the adjuster body. Release the "button" and slowly open the throttle completely by hand, it will be a bit tight doing so. The adjuster will come out of the adjuster body to the proper distance, and you're all set.

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Former Chevrolet HD tech
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Just a heads up for you guys. Being a former Chevrolet Technician I can tell you that is a common failure on the early model 700R4. Up until 1993 the trans used a TV cable for throttle input to the trans. In 1993 the trans was redesigned and now has shift solenoids for shift control. No longer does it have a TV cable or Governor. The Governor was for road speed and the TV cable was for throttle input. Now the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) and the TPS (throttle position sensor) are the inputs to the TCM or PCM depending on model year to control shifts. The electronic control module will calculate the proper shifts on variations of these two inputs. The early 700R4 had numerous design changes to make it more robust. But one of the best changes was when it went to electronic shift control in 1993. The line pressure was now also controlled electronically and enhanced the longivity of this trans. I speak from personal experience as we repaired the early model frequently for burned 3-4 clutch plates which is very likely the problem the earlier posters had. At times it was not known just what caused the loss of pressure to burn the plates as there are a number of factors involved. I just came across this site and I see the posts are old but decided to add this note in case someone in the future would come here. Good luck :)

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Mark
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There are no "shifting modules" inside the transmission. As Mr Zimmerman stated, the later units(renamed as 4L60E) used electronic shifting and pressure controls. The module which controls the transmission may be part of the PCM(controls engine and transmission) or a TCM(controls just the transmission). The transmission in this case will contain pressure switches, a torque converter clutch solenoid, shift control solenoids and a duty cycle controlled pressure control solenoid.

The earlier 700R4 and non electronic 4L60 were controlled by a hydraulic valve body and received throttle input, as stated above, from the TV cable. This cable is often mistaken for a "kick down" cable as used in the TH350. The TV cable in the 700 plays a much more important role than simply commanding forced down shift. It is crucial in controlling line pressure to the hydraulic components of the transmission and incorrect adjustment will affect shift behavior and leads to early failure.

The 3-4 clutch pack is a common failure item in this transmission, due mostly to the design of the input drum where the 3-4 clutch resides. The clutch pack installs at the rvery rear of the drum and is held in place by a snap ring. The thin backing plate of the clutch holds back the apply pressure with only the snap ring to keep it in place. The backing plate flexes under this pressure rather than maintain even pressure on the clutches. The clutches slip and burn up.

For years, builders of this unit have tried to work through this, using various hi performance clutch designs. There is a new part available from the Sonnax company named the "Smart Tech input drum that appears to offer a permanent solution to the problem. This is especially important when the unit will be used in a racing or heavy duty application, behind a hi output motor.

There are several other items that affect the 3-4 clutch as well. The 3rd gear accumulator, which is part of the 2nd gear servo assembly, absorbs the shock of the 3-4 clutch apply. The accumulator is a piston with a sealing ring around it. If the sealing ring fails, apply pressure to the clutch will bleed off and the clutch will slip and burn. If the 2nd gear band servo doesn't release quickly enough when 3rd gear applies, the 3-4 clutch pack will burn up. If the trans oil pump doesn't produce sufficient pressure, the clutches will slip and burn. The input shaft is also a conduit for oil pressure from the pump to the various clutches. Sealing rings are used to isolate the circuits from each other. If these sealing rings leak. Pressure will bleed between circuits and cause clutches to slip and burn.

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dontarvinjr
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Two possibilities. The TV cable is adjusted improperly. There could be air in the valve body fluid. Do a search for adjusting the TV cable first.

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kenny
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before you replace it there is electronic shifting modules in it you might want to drop the pan replace that module and your filter

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matt
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thanks for all the new info do think that i have the same problem as you talked about above. i have a 1990 s10 4x4 with 4.3 motor. it shifts great but then starts to slip in 3rd and over drive almost as if its in neutral but if i shift it to 2nd gear then back to drive it works then starts to slip again and only revs when i give it gas so i shift it down by hand again to 2nd and back to drive it works for a few then it does the same thing like its not in gearthe fluids good not burnt and all gears work fine just acts like its going in and out of gear can you give me any clue what may be the problem with it buddy

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Dan
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I have had the same problem before.. It sounds like the seals are leaking and not applying adequate pressure to the clutch packs. I know it's a no no but I put about a cup and a half of brake fluid in mine and it made it work.. When it quits, hopefully it will be warm and I will rebuild or replace it.. I was not out to try it.. Some people say that it makes seals mushy.. It fixed mine.. for how long I am not sure..

Good Luck

Dan

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