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valkyrie455
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Digitizer freaks out when laid flat on the frame

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Ive ran into several instances where as i come to the final step of laying the digitizer back into the frame of the unit, the digitizer all of a sudden freaks out. When i say freak out i mean, it starts pulling the screen left and right, pressing buttons and generally acting like a defective screen. The funny thing is it only acts in this manner as soon as you get into the last 10 degrees of angle when you are laying it into the frame.

The first instance i thought maybe i screwed up and pinched the cable, no biggie, i replaced it paying careful attention not to bend, pinch or twist the cable. As i laid the glass down onto the frame i made sure the cable was folding down into its little cubby and none was getting trapped between the frame and glass itself. The same thing happened! I ordered a new batch of glass and bam the problem was solved with the first piece of glass out of the new batch.

Ive done several other ipad minis between then and now, using that same batch of glass. Since that incident I practice diligence in not bending or pinching the ribbon in any way (even though I dont think i have ever really bent a cable on this particular device in such a way that would affect how it functions). But now with this last mini the digitizer is doing the exact same thing again!

Am i running into defective glass or is there something i dont know? And is it just me or are these minis the home of hardware gremlins?

Edited by: valkyrie455 ( )

I'm having that same exact issue. Any suggestions on what the problem may be?

jspcllc,

Any update on this? I've experienced the exact same thing on various digitizers. Like the OP says, just the last 10%. I've placed all adhesives on the original Home Button Flex in the correct places, makes no difference. I've changed 3 different Home Flexes, still no solution.

iRepairHub,

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Alex Nguyen
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Hi everyone. I've found what's going on!!

Turns out, there is a small strip of black tape in between the glass and frame that keep the digitizer from "touching" itself and activating home button + digitizer randomly.

The fix for this is simple. Just put a thin strip of tape in between the glass and it's flex cables. I suggest Kapton tape since it's adhesive is light and wont damage the flex, as well as being thin, or just carefully transfer the thin tape strip from the original digitizer to the replacement. Be sure not to cover the Digitizer Adhesive of course!

Here are some pictures for you guys!

http://imgur.com/a/mwTJa

Edited by: Alex Nguyen ( )

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jspcllc
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I was able to resolve mine.. my remove fabric tape off old home button flex and adding to new digitizer. NO Problems since then..I ll look for the picture diagram i followed.

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assortedrubbish
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I've had a few screens do odd things, but I've not worked on an actual Ipad so I'm not sure, but I've fixed many phones/tablets/PC's etc, so I'm assuming this could be the same kind of problem ?

On some, it's literally just been dust/dirt/finger prints causing the touch sensor to get wrong readings (usually if a mark is hidden on the inside of the touch panel. Some cannot cope with even a tiny amount of grit/dust at the edges of the panel.

The odd thing to me is that some can take all kinds of abuse and still work perfectly, even with large scratches and marks on, as well as dirt and grease.

Note that some types of cleaning chemicals can also apparently have an effect on the special surface coating of some kinds of touch panel, but I cant say if that's happened to me or not, I do often clean screens using liquid Windowlene (not the cream version).

If a screen goes crazy at a certain point of fitting, i'd try (if possible) to lay in one end first, and then take it off and lay in the other end instead - just to see if it's the cable end causing the problem. But I would assume it's just down to the very very sensitive ribbons used that may break inside quite easily, I've had that happen on a few phones where it just didn't like being bent over even gently.

Thanks for the reply. It's literally just when the home button flex portion (bottom 10%) of the Digitizer Glass is laid down. If raised (with the top of the Glass laid down and the bottom 10% lifted, the issue no longer occurs. I'll keep testing and update here if any news comes about. It seems that a lot of shops are giving up on the solder repair for the Mini and just going with the Digitizer with the IC Board Pre-soldered on. Don't give up guys (and gals). WE WILL NOT BE DEFEATED!

iRepairHub,

What are you using to clean the glass and frame? Is it possible the cleaner is leaving a film which is interfering with the digitizer? If you use isopropyl alcohol are you using reagent quality? If not, some of the cheap stuff has junk in it which could be a problem.

Dan,

I haven't even removed the protective film from the front or inside of the glass at this point. No cleaning has taken place. This occurs during the "dry test" to test touch functionality before the adhesive is set.

iRepairHub,

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iRepairHub
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I always transfer the from the old flex over to the new one. I'm thinking maybe the giant piece of 'fabric tape' that runs along the entire bottom of the Original digitizer needs to be transferred as well. It covers the digitizer and home flex connections, just under the viewable portion of the glass.

Edit: But (if this is a solution) then why wouldn't this issue affect ALL iPad Mini Digitizer Glass Replacements?

Edited by: iRepairHub ( )

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Potter iSpecialize
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Make sure the digitizer ribbon cable is folded down toward the lcd, not toward the digitizer.

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James
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Potter - can you please explain a bit better?

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Blake
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Potter, could you elaborate? I've tried folding in, but it doesn't seem to a make a difference once you put the digitizer in place. I assume the small pinch in the ribbon is what is causing it to freak out. Does it just take some delicate maneuvering to get the ribbon wholly between the casing and LCD?

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Jesse
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What I have noticed that helps is if you put some black tape on top of this cable line. It helps a little as in like it takes more pressure for it to act crazy. I really think its a bad batch of digitizers. As on some there are no issues at all.

Update

What I have noticed that helps is if you put some black tape on top of this cable line. It helps a little as in like it takes more pressure for it to act crazy. I really think its a bad batch of digitizers. As on some there are no issues at all.

Block Image

Edited by: Jesse ( )

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Ben Tilley
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I have been tinkering on this for weeks now and the biggest conclusion i can muster is it has to do with the IC Control Board soldered to the Digitizer. If you are ordering them pre-assembled the solder joints are likely shorted together, i have been able to fix a few by changing the IC Board. I have had the tape along the bottom work on one but that was the only one. I would love to work with somebody to nail this down hit me up.

btilleyster@gmail.com

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iRepairtinker1
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I had this problem today and solved it by using the plastic that comes off the adhesive tape around the edges of the digitizer, cutting it to size and laying it on top of the foam seal on each side of the screen and then turning and cutting the plastic from the top and bottom and sticking it to the base and top of the screen.

It seems the chassis of the iPad mini is magnetized, which you will see when you screw the metal shield plate in and the screw disappears from the end of the screwdriver.

I dont know if this (the magnetism) is the problem and im no fizzy-sist but shielding the edge of the digitizer seems to solve it, for me.

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mazzolagregory
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I can confirm that transferring the black "nylon" tape from original digitizer to the new solves the issue 100%

Not sure why these aren't coming out of china with the tape already on it. Just being cheap I suppose.

Big thanks to Alex Nguyen for the solution. It has been driving me nuts. I've done about 60 mini's at this point (with no tape). Hope there aren't problems.

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Jerome Ellis
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I had this problem with a couple of iPad 2. What I had to do was to remove the logic board.

Remove the tin covers that shields the processor. Use a heat gun to apply heat to the area.

This will remove any trapped condensation from extreme heat or cold. I have been a 100% successful so far.

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Martin
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Found this thread and used the tape, on several "faulty" digitizers and voila! You are 100% correct in saying that transfering the tape from old to new is the initial problem source. Unfortunately, if you have been tinkering around with plug, unplug and fold, unfold, you may have now introduced a new problem by stessing the flex. Unfortunate that these aren't being shipped with the tape. It would have saved me sooo much time. Kudos to those with the keen eye and thank you for your input.

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